Medicine Man1
Member
So, Hopefully @Gray Wolf will help with this one. We will try and stick in as many details as possible so we can get an end result. We will appreciate as much help, info and instructions as possible. We know theirs information out there. We've read for days. Thus how we know Gray Wolf and other contributors are good ones. We would like to have a single page where someone can look at the variations of one type of style, This one being (Shatter). Now, we'll have to go over what 'consistency' of shatter we're referring to. Some say, "hold it from the bottom" - we're not referring to rock hard slabs. Other say, "if it don't shatter, it don't matter" - now you can have stable, pliable, tangible shatter that will actually shatter if you drop it, yet you can malleable shatter that won't stick to your fingers. This is pure "STABLE" shatter. It meas it has reached its point of being able to change consistency without a forced breaking point. Some people call this "snap-and-pull" but some snap-and-pull is really more malleable and not really shatter. As it will stick to your fingers and if it is room temp, its hard to handle. Whereas stable shatter, can be in a 70F room, be handled and still not become sticky and will still shatter if you drop it (if its a big enough slab) or if you take your dabber and tapping it with a ball point dabber. Now we'll have some images and such of the process (feel free to point out the positives, negatives and suggestions on technique.
1. Dried Material (Dried material in this case has been in sealed jars in dark with temps around 55F and stored for about 3 mos. The material was jarred after being hang dried, trimmed then dried again in strain labeled paper bags for 1 week before being jarred)
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2. Raw Material was packed (Not broken down, not ground up, not scissored, not frozen, not heated (decarboxed, ect.) It was lightly dumped into, then packed down with two fingers, then lightly dumped more material in, then packed down again, until full.
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3. We then used Newport to extract the material onto a pyrex dish. The dish was on top of an aluminum tin over another pyrex filled with water. (We later read the clean plan sand idea from @Gray Wolf, excellent idea) as we know, as many other should, NO WATER IS NEEDED IN YOUR MATERIAL. We minimized this with the tin covering the tray. We kept our temps at 9-35F remaining below 35F at all times, open blasting 447.8g of material. We used 900ml (3 cans) for each packing (around 60g) The temp. was sometimes SET to 300F on the hotplate, (this means that the temp never reached 300F but was SET to at times - to keep the hotplate remain heated since the water was adjusting) but you really have to watch your overall temp of the material. (This could be achieved easier , more reliable by using sand!) We just wanted to keep it in the positive temps to prevent ice forming.
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4. After all material was blasted, both pyrex's were removed from the hotplate and transferred to another table where it remained to purge. As it calmed down (huge bubbles were gone and small ones remained) the temperatures did rise (as the hot water under the tin still remained hot, even without the hot plate) to about 78-85F and as more and more butane was released, it became more of an oil and we removed any impurities that may have been implemented in the process (using a tooth pick or dab tool is fine). As the smaller bubbles slowed and popped and it became less active we reached a temperature near 77F. We POURED it onto unbleached parchment in an outwards circular motion, never to double up or go into the same spot. We had to scrape the sides of the pyrex, from the middle to the outside wall and then upward to get the rest of the oil and we placed it onto the parchment as well.
5. We cut out our parchment to fit inside the oven. The oven was an ambient temp of 92F our oil went down to 75F while transferring from the table to oven. It was kept in the oven for about 3.75 hrs. After 4hrs we re-temped the actual oil at 82F. So, we bumped it up to 95F and let it sit another 40 mins then pulled our muffin. We pulled it as slow as possible (1-3Hg at a time, steadily) as high as we could without huge air pockets bursting, from preventing a collapse. When bubbles did pop we pulled a but faster (5-10Hg) to prevent a collapse until we ended up at 25.5Hg. Where there were a few huge bubbles holding the slab up in the air. These remained for about 5 minutes until they popped and others arose. (Oil temp remained about 85.6-87F)
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6. After our muffin collapsed (big bubbles rupturing, and the muffin falling) it starts to rest at about 1in. where you see activity (small bubbles rupturing) and it holds up by itself and we've got it down to 27Hg staying steady at about 92F (Not actual) 85-87F Actual Oil Temp) It sat at this for about 3 hours then was pulled to 29Hg where it remained until the 18hr spot.
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1. Dried Material (Dried material in this case has been in sealed jars in dark with temps around 55F and stored for about 3 mos. The material was jarred after being hang dried, trimmed then dried again in strain labeled paper bags for 1 week before being jarred)
-
-
2. Raw Material was packed (Not broken down, not ground up, not scissored, not frozen, not heated (decarboxed, ect.) It was lightly dumped into, then packed down with two fingers, then lightly dumped more material in, then packed down again, until full.
-
-
3. We then used Newport to extract the material onto a pyrex dish. The dish was on top of an aluminum tin over another pyrex filled with water. (We later read the clean plan sand idea from @Gray Wolf, excellent idea) as we know, as many other should, NO WATER IS NEEDED IN YOUR MATERIAL. We minimized this with the tin covering the tray. We kept our temps at 9-35F remaining below 35F at all times, open blasting 447.8g of material. We used 900ml (3 cans) for each packing (around 60g) The temp. was sometimes SET to 300F on the hotplate, (this means that the temp never reached 300F but was SET to at times - to keep the hotplate remain heated since the water was adjusting) but you really have to watch your overall temp of the material. (This could be achieved easier , more reliable by using sand!) We just wanted to keep it in the positive temps to prevent ice forming.
-
-
4. After all material was blasted, both pyrex's were removed from the hotplate and transferred to another table where it remained to purge. As it calmed down (huge bubbles were gone and small ones remained) the temperatures did rise (as the hot water under the tin still remained hot, even without the hot plate) to about 78-85F and as more and more butane was released, it became more of an oil and we removed any impurities that may have been implemented in the process (using a tooth pick or dab tool is fine). As the smaller bubbles slowed and popped and it became less active we reached a temperature near 77F. We POURED it onto unbleached parchment in an outwards circular motion, never to double up or go into the same spot. We had to scrape the sides of the pyrex, from the middle to the outside wall and then upward to get the rest of the oil and we placed it onto the parchment as well.
5. We cut out our parchment to fit inside the oven. The oven was an ambient temp of 92F our oil went down to 75F while transferring from the table to oven. It was kept in the oven for about 3.75 hrs. After 4hrs we re-temped the actual oil at 82F. So, we bumped it up to 95F and let it sit another 40 mins then pulled our muffin. We pulled it as slow as possible (1-3Hg at a time, steadily) as high as we could without huge air pockets bursting, from preventing a collapse. When bubbles did pop we pulled a but faster (5-10Hg) to prevent a collapse until we ended up at 25.5Hg. Where there were a few huge bubbles holding the slab up in the air. These remained for about 5 minutes until they popped and others arose. (Oil temp remained about 85.6-87F)
-
-
6. After our muffin collapsed (big bubbles rupturing, and the muffin falling) it starts to rest at about 1in. where you see activity (small bubbles rupturing) and it holds up by itself and we've got it down to 27Hg staying steady at about 92F (Not actual) 85-87F Actual Oil Temp) It sat at this for about 3 hours then was pulled to 29Hg where it remained until the 18hr spot.
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