24 clones X $14 each gone...
Have to say it DIDNT kill the other 4 strains I used it on...
But im still pretty pissed...
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Broad Mite and Spider Mite IPM for Cannabis (lets get a convo going)
- Thread starter caredrivensf
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24 clones X $14 each gone...
Have to say it DIDNT kill the other 4 strains I used it on...
But im still pretty pissed...
Hell yeh I would be P.O. as well. Was about to get some to try.
I have been using abemectin and malathion. Wanted something other than the malathion to use with the abamectin.
Former Guest
Active member
I tried the broad mite application for nuke em on mine and by the end of the first round my girls looked really fried and I tried to spray them with some yucca and water to hydrate them and the power of the spray broke the leafs from the branches they were so brittle. I used it before for spider mites and it worked really well on some clones using the normal strength as was suggested on the bottle for first use. only took one or two applications to work. but for broad mites, people are reporting problems so I am curious if it can't kill the adults?
I plan on dunking in nuke em this morning at strong strength to kill eggs, juveniles, and try to knock down the adults, then using avid to finish off adults tomorrow, followed by another application of avid/nuke em but I'm not sure how long to space it out. thinking 3 days after first app of avid to apply the nuke em and then another application of avid after that. planning on making my own calendar.
I plan on dunking in nuke em this morning at strong strength to kill eggs, juveniles, and try to knock down the adults, then using avid to finish off adults tomorrow, followed by another application of avid/nuke em but I'm not sure how long to space it out. thinking 3 days after first app of avid to apply the nuke em and then another application of avid after that. planning on making my own calendar.
Confession--for spider mites, I was always able to control them via organic methods...pain in the ass? yes, but no chems/synthetics were necessario for me. But then the fucking Broad Mites invited themselves into my garden and setup multiple homesteads without my permission or knowledge!
The only way I eradicated Broad Mites was through the use of synthetics/chems--organic methods either were impractical or did not work. Unfortunately the Broad Mites destroyed my genetics...even my prized super sativa! So...IMHO, part of the cost of Broad Mite invasion is a permanent loss of plant vigor (say bye bye quality/quantity)--and replacing infected plants should be an alternative for any cannabis IPM.
BTW, the chem I chose for Broad Mites is abamectin (active ingredient in Avid), but instead of paying $95 or so for 8 oz of Avid, I went the "generic route" for 1/4 the cost-- Quali-Pro about $90 for quart. Available here--http://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com/abamectin-0-15-ec?gclid=CjwKEAjw8O2hBRDKur2lseLW6C8SJAC-r1J3FSCPxo1MxGYQjS4BwSFpXRKvTrEViWQUMtF1oq-wKRoCWpXw_wcB
Also, for any miticide to be effective, ALL as in 100% of the plant tissue must be sprayed...new growth, old growth, stems, leaf underside, etc. For that the best sprayer I ever used is a "Low Velocity Low Pressure" paint sprayer connected to an air compressor. It operates at 25-30 psi and the spray is a "mist" (like paint can spray), easy to target and easy to cover 100% of the plant. I got mine at Harbor Freight for less than $20 and looks like this--
In other words--you can have the most powerful potion known to mankind--but if you miss a spot on the plant (where a broad mite or two are hiding) and if those broad mites survive (which they will)--you are back at square one. Having to spray everyone again. Second benefit is spray efficiency--I can spray monster plants and use less than 2 oz of spray fluid per plant...the usual is 1 oz per plant max. Why is this important? Residual...the less active ingredient that comes in contact with plant tissue, the less residual there will be in the plant tissue....and of course waste. After foliar spraying 25-40 plants (compost tea, minerals, vitamins, fertility, pesticides, etc) with a 1/2 gallon of solution--I collect less than 1 oz of waste on the floor/backdrop (I spray each plant outside the environment at a "spray station" of sorts). So..spray technique should also me part of a Cannabis IPM.
Tic-tac-toe--yep, what may work for you may not be my preference...and vice versa. Too many variables than "rows and columns"--got go "3d" with "intersects"
The only way I eradicated Broad Mites was through the use of synthetics/chems--organic methods either were impractical or did not work. Unfortunately the Broad Mites destroyed my genetics...even my prized super sativa! So...IMHO, part of the cost of Broad Mite invasion is a permanent loss of plant vigor (say bye bye quality/quantity)--and replacing infected plants should be an alternative for any cannabis IPM.
BTW, the chem I chose for Broad Mites is abamectin (active ingredient in Avid), but instead of paying $95 or so for 8 oz of Avid, I went the "generic route" for 1/4 the cost-- Quali-Pro about $90 for quart. Available here--http://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com/abamectin-0-15-ec?gclid=CjwKEAjw8O2hBRDKur2lseLW6C8SJAC-r1J3FSCPxo1MxGYQjS4BwSFpXRKvTrEViWQUMtF1oq-wKRoCWpXw_wcB
Also, for any miticide to be effective, ALL as in 100% of the plant tissue must be sprayed...new growth, old growth, stems, leaf underside, etc. For that the best sprayer I ever used is a "Low Velocity Low Pressure" paint sprayer connected to an air compressor. It operates at 25-30 psi and the spray is a "mist" (like paint can spray), easy to target and easy to cover 100% of the plant. I got mine at Harbor Freight for less than $20 and looks like this--
In other words--you can have the most powerful potion known to mankind--but if you miss a spot on the plant (where a broad mite or two are hiding) and if those broad mites survive (which they will)--you are back at square one. Having to spray everyone again. Second benefit is spray efficiency--I can spray monster plants and use less than 2 oz of spray fluid per plant...the usual is 1 oz per plant max. Why is this important? Residual...the less active ingredient that comes in contact with plant tissue, the less residual there will be in the plant tissue....and of course waste. After foliar spraying 25-40 plants (compost tea, minerals, vitamins, fertility, pesticides, etc) with a 1/2 gallon of solution--I collect less than 1 oz of waste on the floor/backdrop (I spray each plant outside the environment at a "spray station" of sorts). So..spray technique should also me part of a Cannabis IPM.
Tic-tac-toe--yep, what may work for you may not be my preference...and vice versa. Too many variables than "rows and columns"--got go "3d" with "intersects"
i agree spider mites are easily controlled and even eradicated organically.
i mix in one tank.
medium dose of pyganic
medium dose azadactin (neem extract)
medium dose of spinosad
a little mint dr. bronners.
spray every plant all over every 3rd day 4 times.
this is done on the cusp of harvest so that the 4th treatment happens in the flowering room on day of flip.
this has never failed me. ive never had a spider mite infestation become a problem indoors using this.
totally omri bro.
i mix in one tank.
medium dose of pyganic
medium dose azadactin (neem extract)
medium dose of spinosad
a little mint dr. bronners.
spray every plant all over every 3rd day 4 times.
this is done on the cusp of harvest so that the 4th treatment happens in the flowering room on day of flip.
this has never failed me. ive never had a spider mite infestation become a problem indoors using this.
totally omri bro.
Former Guest
Active member
I saw you post the paint sprayer elsewhere on icmag and mentioned I would like to use it but didn't have an air compressor so someone else said they use this and love it! here's the link to a list of different kinds and the one he recommended was the one for $80 http://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Paint-Sprayers/Wagner/N-5yc1vZarv5Z1le
Just make sure the operation PSI is not over 50 psi. I recall reading anything over than that can harm the the microorganisms. Hence the "LOW PRESSURE LOW VELOCITY"...not "HPHV".
But great idea...electric setup; might have to investigate that--as my compressor (100 psi limit) is a wee bit too small and thinking buying a bigger one. I have to wait between plants now...as the it takes a while for the tank to fill up...lol--speedy gonzales!
But great idea...electric setup; might have to investigate that--as my compressor (100 psi limit) is a wee bit too small and thinking buying a bigger one. I have to wait between plants now...as the it takes a while for the tank to fill up...lol--speedy gonzales!
Man I still feel bad for you and its been like seven hours. That has to be a record for my give a shit meter.
Must be it is because it was dope babies.
Appreciate the concern!
Getting worse, look like some Purple Kushs are taking a turn for the worse as well...
Ill post a pic later...
caredrivensf
Member
I will take it off the list!!
caredrivensf
Member
caredrivensf
Member
I used to have this Dr. Bronners Peppermint hemp soap x Hydrogen Peroxide but forgot the recipe. Do you know much about it or have experience spray H2o2 on the plants to fry the eggs
caredrivensf
Member
why a paint sprayer?? Why not just use an atomizer??
http://www.ehydroponics.com/commercial-portable-sprayer-atomizer.html
Former Guest
Active member
well that is what I originally wanted but if you notice the price of that thing, you can see why I chose the $80 option. it's for spraying a plant. shouldn't cost three times the price of the spray 
should work just as well. the car sprayer may work a little better as far as micron size maybe but either option is better than a traditional spray bottle. I would think at least.
should work just as well. the car sprayer may work a little better as far as micron size maybe but either option is better than a traditional spray bottle. I would think at least.caredrivensf
Member
well that is what I originally wanted but if you notice the price of that thing, you can see why I chose the $80 option. it's for spraying a plant. shouldn't cost three times the price of the spray
Do you think tht paint sprayer works good then?
cannascholar
Member
I should have been more clear in my earlier post. You don't want to go over 30 mL per gal or you're asking for trouble. Stuff has Very low ph and the label's reccomendations are way high so they can sell their expensive, yet effective product.
Yes my plants are much more resistant to mites. I have spider mites but they are having a much harder time reproducing than the y are on less healthy gardens. Plants that are stressed, or with less than optimal nutrition are like beacons for mites and root aphids.
Spraying kontos(and dunk$), pylon, avid, forbid with indicate 5 to conveniently adjust ph and serve as sticker was a common practice on my garden until about 8 months ago.
It works to an extent but outdoors it's problematic because the bugs simply come back. Weed isn't worth 3k much often anymore so it's gotten harder for me to justify exposure to chems. I spend the extra money for organic products that must be applied more often and are less effective.
The next best is routine spraying with essential oils, nuke em, triple action neem, and sulfur when bm's are known to be present. I also like to deploy predators only when having serious issues. Right around week 4 once I finish spraying organic pesticides.
Yes my plants are much more resistant to mites. I have spider mites but they are having a much harder time reproducing than the y are on less healthy gardens. Plants that are stressed, or with less than optimal nutrition are like beacons for mites and root aphids.
Spraying kontos(and dunk$), pylon, avid, forbid with indicate 5 to conveniently adjust ph and serve as sticker was a common practice on my garden until about 8 months ago.
It works to an extent but outdoors it's problematic because the bugs simply come back. Weed isn't worth 3k much often anymore so it's gotten harder for me to justify exposure to chems. I spend the extra money for organic products that must be applied more often and are less effective.
The next best is routine spraying with essential oils, nuke em, triple action neem, and sulfur when bm's are known to be present. I also like to deploy predators only when having serious issues. Right around week 4 once I finish spraying organic pesticides.
Former Guest
Active member
i haven't used it for pesticide. I've just used them to spray car paint and it comes out really fine and I think you can adjust the nozzle for different types of sprays. I don't think it would matter what came out of it be it paint or pesticide. the other guy has used it and suggested it in another thread. I mentioned it in a thread and someone else told me they used the one I linked from home depot that was $80 and loved it. so 2 peeps have told me it would work great for pesticide and I've used it for painting cars so yeah. I guess so lol.
cannascholar
Member
Former Guest
Active member
there is a product called Sea Shield I was considering getting that is chitan based. I saw great reviews by people on the AEA products thread by FatherEarth. great for IPM but I'm not sure if it is effective towards broad mites. all the .edu ag sites don't have much else to offer besides chemicals and most of the studies showed biological controls not eradicating them. I still think this would be beneficial to implement though for pests like spider mites though
chitosan is the shit. im not sure how it works on bms but its a miracle magic ingredient for so many problems.
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