What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Mite Eradictor (also destroys Powdery Mildew)

G

Guest

1 exception,

i'm in soil and occasionally i'll catch an insect emerging from, crawling, or flying around the soil surface i wil set the sprayer head to a hard straight blast, give it a few test blasts, and then take aim, and fire at will in 1 hard blast of iso. at the desired target.

One must take precaution to not 'spray' the soil surface, yet take him out in one shot and i even scoop up the iso soaked soil in the small spot with my hand and dispose along with the tiny corpse of whatever was lurking in there, thus eliminating the worry of root damage through the sponge-like-consistancy of the soil/soiless mix.

aggregates such as vermiculite, perlite, even substances like peat, coco, hydroton, sand, grodan/rw, oasis foam, silica stone, etc. are 'sponge-like' in that they absorb water quickly and efficiently, so taking the above precaution of 'scooping' up the soil that was treated with isopropyl alchohol is a good practice to ensure nothing harmful is wicked into the root-zone.
 
Last edited:

Verite

My little pony.. my little pony
Veteran
CaptainJack said:
medium is penetrated (save the jokes,Verite) ,


Wheres the fun in that? Doesnt anyone else watch NBC and feel like doing the same thing?

patriciaarquette_medium_240.jpg
 

aeric

Active member
Veteran
clarify: when i say good for getting rid of....i mean by applying it to cotton swab/paper towel whatever absorbant material first and then dabbing the problem spot with the iso, not spraying. The best would be to remove the offending material, but I happened to find that it works, so there, lol.

I wanted to penetrate the medium in the 90s, when she was a medium in training. Heard she doesn't have normal vision and everything kind of looks like an impressionist painting, interesting.
 
G

Guest

420KushMaster said:
1toke did u lower the humidity for just let your tonic handle its own?

----Relative humidity 40-55 constant.
----Water about a half hour before treatment - the plants are less likely to feed on the mix.
----I cover pots and beds with plastic so it doesn't soak into my ProMix-the mix is highly alkaline and will toss your PH.
----Important to rinse after 10 minutes or so! New growth and anywhere it's left sitting can burn!

Shopvac reported burning on some of his plants. TEST ONE PLANT FIRST! Don't lose your whole harvest, if it works you will find out the next day. One day isn't costly and if your strain has problems you can adjust your treatment with citrus (orange peels and water blended) or dilute as necessary.

I've used the mix on Neville's Haze, Sage, Trainwreck, Johnny Blaze and SWT#3 with excellent results and healthy plants. I used it during veg and flower, if you're in flower the hairs will damage but grow back with a vengeance. I've never seen leaf or stem damage.

Good luck in your battle of the borgs - I have been totally 100% mold, mildew, mite and thrip free since using the mix on Thanksgiving 2005! :woohoo:

 
Last edited:

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
Hey 1 toke do you think i can post this in my sick plants guide it will say you are the contributer or i will link it to this thread its upo to you but either way is fine for me its great info thats for sure!
 
G

Guest

Good stuff. Do any of you guys have a recipe that i can be run through the dirt?
I have had some fungus gnat/sciarid fly problems and i see the little fuckers coming out the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. They love coco
 
G

Guest

MynameStitch said:
Hey 1 toke do you think i can post this in my sick plants guide it will say you are the contributer or i will link it to this thread its upo to you but either way is fine for me its great info thats for sure!

Hey stitch - anything that helps out the comunity is fine with me bro, however I've posted links to the originators of the mix formula from Oregon Free, I found their solutions while following their war on the borgs. The Pacific coast is the ideal breeding ground and what other place is that ideal for testing.

Seasider should get any credit or recognition for his ongoing research and test reports. His formulas and results were backed by BankRobber which was good enough for me to bring it over here and try it out. I didn't endorse it until I thoroughly tested myself with excellent results. I then posted my results for others to continue testing and asked that they thank Seasider and post feedback test results to his thread. I then discovered that a lot of people didn't want to register on another site for that, and lo-and-behold Seasider recently registered here! So if he doesn't mind the feedback, testers can post to him here and hope he responds in kind.

I welcomed him in the Introduction forum but haven't seen him respond.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=18215

All the information is pubicly available and I find no copyright information or anything saying it couldn't be distributed freely at your own risk. I would think Seasider would want all available information passed out to the community, it is invaluable in our war on the borgs and should be public information IMHO.

1Toke
 
Last edited:
G

Guest

Not that I like to admit that the little pest's have found my room again, but I have them the worst ever now, so I willl whip up a batch of this and give it a try and see if it does as it say's. Oh I have alot of mite's to see go pop and even more egg's to melt away.
I have so many mite's growing that one would think I am raising them and not bud's, LOL

Thank you for this post and we will see how it work's later on today.

stay safe and grow the same way, LiveGreen.

realhigh.
 
G

Guest

I have so many mite's growing that one would think I am raising them and not bud's, LOL
my mitefarm is better than yours...
5538mitefarm-med.JPG

o, they're fuckin lovin it:D

this cab has not been treated in a month,
in order to test the resistance of a certain selection..
everything in there, was purposely left to dry up, in hot, bright,
but less than ideal conditions**, as to provide prime conditions for the mites...
the dryed up eaten ones are the mitemeat, and,
even though the smoke is BOMB,
i will not (forseeably) use this selection in my breeding program...

**the dry conditions also test the plants (or roots:chin:) resistance to drought....

the best defense against mites, is breeding/growing mite-resistant strains.
 

Bonzo

Active member
Veteran
Howdy Captain, what is the tall green one that seems to be pretty resistant. I certainly agree about breeding mite resistant strains, i have an OGRE that is incredibly resistant. I had a Sensi Star cut that was totally non-resistant and since i had other things in the same room so i cut her out, they just swarmed the poor girl.

bonz
 
G

Guest

hey bonz - thats Kona Gold, thanks for your interest, back to the topic tho,

hey bonz - thats Kona Gold, thanks for your interest, back to the topic tho,

going to do a full '1toke' recipe on them within the next couple days after i buy some pyrethrin bombs, and do that cab up nice and waterproof, with proper ventilation, to propagate cuttings in.

the mite infested cabinet would ideally be thrown away..
unforunately, its built stealth into a piece of permanent furniture :p

thanks again 1toke for such a great recipe for war:hotbounce
 
G

Guest

:pointlaug

I had terrible spider mite problems... I mean I tried ALOT of things including Neem, Safers, Dr. Doom bombs you name it. They would would only so well and then my problem would come back.

I have tried 1TokeOverLine's recipie and it works really well. I mean REAL WELL. I rinsed with water after about 15 min. and shook the plant well.

I have also tried this solution diluted to half strength and used it on small clones and seedlings with no burning...

Good stuff :woohoo: Thanks!


jsn
 

1TokeRedeux

Member
:joint: An Update from the experience of GMT :joint:

We need a good European translation of all the elements concerned. Baking soda is not a common comoddity over the pond as it is here. Apparently Apple Cider Vinegar is rare, too.

GMT is going through an ordeal over haste. Read carefully and make sure you fully understand what you could do to your plants. TEST ONE PLANT. If it works you only lost a night, don't risk your whole grow.

And don't substitute unless you are absolutely positive they are the same thing. In this sad case malt vinegar was substituted for apple cider vinegar. That's like pourin aircraft fuel in yer Chevy. Nothing good can come of it.

Just fer shits 'n giggles Google "Apple cider vinegar" and discover this naturally occurring medicine and it's fantastic properties.

In GMT's defense - I haven't seen anyone report disasters by substituting other types of vinegar. My experience tells me this is just the "luck o' the draw" . All it takes is a vinegar with the wrong compostion to turn yer grow into compost.

I did see warnings about any vinegar that has sulphites.

WARNING !!
A member had severe burning that he attributes to residues drawn out of the container by the vinegar.
USE A CLEAN CONTAINER !! Do not use realy strong vinegar or any with SULFITES in it.
NO SULFITES"
 
Last edited:

bartender187

Bakin in da Sun
Veteran
I diluted to 1/2 2/3rd str, tested it on unrooted clones, baby clones, and fully established veggin plants. All of them didnt seem to mind it, sprayed them, then sprayed them with straight water 2-5min after hittin them with the eradicator mix.... Ive tried neem and few other products from the hydro shop..... Ive finnally got rid of those lil buggers and I can thank 1toke and this recipe for it.

thanks again - it works : )
bartender187
 
Top