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Advanced LED Development Thread.

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DeadlyFoez

DeadlyFoez

Active member
Ok, so I've been silent for a while, but then came back in to type up a post, and I spent about 1/2 an hour typing up a whole bunch of shit, then my internet fucked up while clicked the post button, and before I knew it, it was gone. Kinda sux,

But heres the summary,

Make small clusters of led's to hang in the plant.

My project is delayed,

TO THE NEWBIES:

Please take the time to read the first post and then the rest of the thread before asking questions that may have already been answered. We dont need to waste space by rehashing things that have already been discussed.

When you need to find info in a thread like this it take a lot of time to find the post you are looking for, even more so when the thread is filled up with irrelevant info.
 
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Ono Nadagin

Ono Nadagin

Active member
dude DeadlyFoez why do you insist on being harsh... answer the ppls questions or remain silent....

:wave:
 
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bounty29

bounty29

Custom User Title
Veteran
Repeated questions in your thread make you irritable, there's no denying that. Top that off with a huge post thrown away due to internet (shitty, I know), and you're kinda pissed. His project is also delayed, and he wasn't really being harsh. There's a lot of great information in this thread, and in sites linked to in this thread. If people are truly interested, and take the time to read everything, they wouldn't be asking the same questions. I appreciate all the work everyone has done to gather information here, and I believe there is a bright future for LED growing.
 
LED_experiments

LED_experiments

Member
ono: there is no sense in having attitude like yours. i totally agree with foez, we have a lot of more important things to discuss. if somebody is not willing to read the whole thread, i think he doesn't have any purposes to make his own experiment. it is our good will that we share our informations in public. we could discuss about that private so no-one else could read that. i think you should show your respect and at least read the thread before asking something that is already answered. the only thing you can achieve with your rudeness is that people who are developing this technology stop writing to the forum and continue their debate via PM, email, other forum,... there is no problem for me, i know which user to PM to get the information i need.
i already decided not to reply the noob questions that are already answered. i would also like this thread to be advanced, not repeating all the very basic facts over and over again.
 
DeadlyFoez

DeadlyFoez

Active member
Ok, what I was saying before I lost the post that I was making is that it would be easy to make small clusters of led's that could dangle at the end of a wire. One factor that would need to be thought out is that you would want as much light output as possible, but there would not be able to be much heat coming from those clusters as to not damage the plant tissue.

well, I hate to cut this post short, but I got to goto a buddies house.

I'll post more later.
 
LED_experiments

LED_experiments

Member
interesting idea foez. i tested if there are any burns on the surfance if you put your leds dirrectly to the leave (zero distance). no damage at all. but as you know, i use 5mm leds, which do not emmit so much heat. i sometimes think about the whole technology, have some crazy, some unusual ideas,... always trying to get better way of usage.
as you know, i'm always speaking in favor of scrog and sog technicques. the reason: all the top buds are approxiamtely at same distance from the array. i also tested top-bottom illumination on scrog shaped plant (used 1 array above and 1 array under the plant), to illuminate the whole canopy, even bottom parts that didn't get much light from the top light source. but this method gets complicated if you have more than 1 plant, when you want to water them. if using ebb&flow, there would be less problems.
i think it would be better to use 1 array at the top and some kind of led nets when doing scrog or sog. by that i mean net made of leds or covered with leds. simply put your net over the pots, and let plants grow through the net. when they grow to 5-10 cm, add another net,... until the growth stops. then you have light all over the canopy. you have to point the leds in the net in that way, that the plant illumination is the best. this method maybe shouldn't be called sog or scrog but cog (cube of green). but i think you might have some problems when harvesting.
the only bad thing in my case is the same as yours - i don't grow pot. but i make led arrays that are used in mj growing experiments. the main problem is, that i don't run the experiments by myself, so i don't experiment with ideas like cog.
 
DeadlyFoez

DeadlyFoez

Active member
OK, So where I left off. These small clusters of led's could be dangled in the canopy. I would still aim to use high powered led's, but I think I would either dim them enough to not create too much heat, or I could probably really take advantage of PWM using these clusters. But either way, it would need testing to make sure that after a longer period of time that the tissue doesn't get damaged. The led's would probably have to maintain temps below 85 F to be safe on the long term.

i would still make arrays per say, but they would not be bigger than 5" x 5" an array. I would try to put as many LED's on an array that I could.

The goal here is to get as much light output as possible in as small of an area as possible without breaking the bank.

Covering all the walls of a grow area with led's would be a waste. Keep in mind that light loses half of it's intensity by every inch. So you want to keep those leds as close as possible so not to much light is lost. When the the light source (led's) dont put out much light to begin with, every inch is a lot of loss.

Positional arrays and small dangling cluster is the way to go for maximum efficiency.
 
LED_experiments

LED_experiments

Member
+1 here
the problem with most of those comercial setups is that they buy the cheapest material they can get, then overdrive them to get higher intensity, connections don't allow to cool the leds properly and 100kh is mission impossible. i design my arrays with wide connections (cooling), never run them over 20mA (usually 19-19.8mA) and i still don't think they are usefull for the whole 100kh. i'm sure you would have to replace that setup sooner than mine.
and the most funny thing: if i buy the most powerfull models (not so cheap at all), the price of the setup is still far away from their 'high quality super druper setup'.
i didn't see any picture of their setup. did anyone find that? i'd like to see their product. and as you mentioned knna, no informations about what is used at all.

stupid marketing crap.
 
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Ono Nadagin

Ono Nadagin

Active member
kingsbright makes a full spectrum LED w/ 2blue@430nm,1green@525nm,1red@625nm LEDs in a single 1 bulb led

Kingsbright P# wpf5waembgmbw.. the mouser P# is 604-wpf5waembgmbw


I also found some here
http://www.ledtronics.com/ds/DIS1024/

Sorry if I missed someone mentioning these in this post already
 
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sy9942

sy9942

New member
Ono Nadagin said:
kingsbright makes a full spectrum LED w/ 2blue@430nm,1green@525nm,1red@625nm LEDs in a single 1 bulb led

Kingsbright P# wpf5waembgmbw.. the mouser P# is 604-wpf5waembgmbw


I also found some here
http://www.ledtronics.com/ds/DIS1024/

Sorry if I missed someone mentioning these in this post already
Click to expand...

The output of that Kingbright LED is negligible. r/g/b mcd of 25/20/30. The individual LEDs most people are using are about 100 times brighter. Not to mention that the Kingbright LED mentioned is $3.25 each in lots of 100. That's pretty expensive.
 
Ono Nadagin

Ono Nadagin

Active member
Sorry I posted the wrong one... they have another that has a higher output but the blue spectrum is @460nm.

My posting them was more or less meant to show that full spectrum LEDs are available(sorry if it had already been touched on in this post) just got me thinking that with multiple LEDS of diff spectrums mounted in one package could be used with timing curcuits to reduce the total amount of LEDs needed
 
G

Guest

I've only been able to find 2 other articles referencing chopped light, and neither was very detailed. Could someone post some URLs to some good detailed papers/articles? If there were links posted earlier in the thread I apologize for overlooking them, but I didn't see any. TIA
 
mrdankmeister

mrdankmeister

New member
Hi,
this is my first post here but i have read this whole thread and think it is very promising and interesting. Daddyweez2000 commented on that fuzzlight thing from ebay and i dont know how that auction went but i found their website. www.FUZZLIGHT.com . It looks bright as hell and i dont know the exact lumens or anything but it does look good. I dont know if its the right ratio of 2:1 red to blue leds. Anyone gotten one or used one or anything similar to it ? I want to experiment but i dont want to waste my time. What do you all think ? 4 fuzzlight bulbs for 400 dollars. if that one bulb really is that bright, imagine 4 of them in a workshop light fixture FTW. =D any comments or criticism is appreciated. peace

EDIT : they say 10 bulbs is equal to a 1500w HID. so say a 4 pack is around 600w right ? if they work as good as they claim to and you dont have to replace them, it will pay for itself in electricity savings and bulb replacements within a year or year and a half. it would be interesting to experiment with a 4 bulb setup thats equal to a 600w system and conduct tests. do you think it will be viable and worth it to try? would the light spectrum be within range for veggie and flowering ? or just one stage? instead of supplementing HID , can it replace it with a strong system?

They say they are beta testing a new 150w lamp with 100 3w emitters heatsinked in a bar. This new lightbulb array sounds very promising and is what i really want to get and try out. Especially since LEDs are coming along way from where they used to be, it might be worth checking out. I dont want to mess with the floodlight looking bulbs or soldering my own flat board arrays. Plus i havent seen any of those other LED bulbs coming even close to the light output i see on this bulb. Sorry such a long post but i have alot to ask =D. Thanks in advance
 
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mrdankmeister

mrdankmeister

New member
you also have to take in account that you have to generally replace a bulb for an HID system every 2-4 or 3-6 months depending on how you are using it. say a top of the line 600w HPS bulb goes for around 100 bucks give or take some depending on brand and coating, then you would make it back within a year or year and a half. the energy being saved is just the bonus but the fact that these lights dont burn out make them very appealing. as well as the heat factor, less stress on plants and on A/C unit. higher temps and A/C on longer running cooling cycles will eat up more money than anything with a hot HID system. So if you add up all this, the choice seems obvious but maybe a little too obvious. im a little skeptical but until now with this t8 bulb system, i wasnt interested enough at all with the low light "ebay led specials" options.
 
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