Shawncan75
New member
I’ve made supersoil & it already contains rock dust just 2 cups but was wondering if I can still add more without any issues? Thanks
I acquired volcanic rock dust from a quarry rather than a brand name. I ran detailed lab tests on this prior to using it. We typically added about 3 cups per contractor wheelbarrow [about 5 to 6 cubic feet]. I did make an error once in making a mix to transplant clones into, using double the amount. It definitely burned them so be aware of this factor.
Nutrients from rock/clay dusts can be immediately available to plants. If you are running a living soil no-till you can topdress more for a following crop but it is likely unnecessary before this. If doing a remix following a crop, you are likely best to use half the amount and topdress if necessary.
Rock dust is not water soluble, it is acid soluble [microbial and root exuded acids] so mixing it with water and bubbling it is a silly waste of time and effort. [IMO]
When I sold my little farm my neighbor/friend took away my left over rock dust. He spread it over a field he had broken for planting vegetables the next season. He ran out around halfway through. The plants, local weeds, which grew where the rock dust was applied were three times the size as those in the rest of the field.
Imo its a waste unless you plan on doing living recycled soil.
There is maybe different rock/basalts bla bla
I dont know that.
Yeah, lets take advice from that guy^...
I never said it does not work, only that there is limited availability without high micro/fungi life and that sea based are more easily available in my opinion.
ibechillin; You might be surprised what can happen in container growing, given sufficient volume. I'm pretty certain that many of the organic acids exuded by roots into the soil solution can release nutrients from rock and clay dusts.
Also even endomycorrhizal fungi can infect roots in 5 to 15 days.
You are correct that a longterm established microbial hierarchy will be optimum (far superior)
Be careful when buying seaweeds. There are good ones and ones that have little value. Also, where to apply them and when is an issue.
For example, applying a cytokinin to the roots will actually tend to stall the plants. Roots get lazy. Always apply cytokinin seaweeds foliarly. Small quantities constantly and mixed with other foliars. The best cytokinin source on the market is North American Kelp, Seacrop 16. It has the highest guaranteed cytokinin level on the planet, 400ppms. This should be used from veg up through week 3 of flower.
For root applications, you really want to use an auxin seaweed source. So far, the only one that I have been able to find in the US is Kelpak. This applied to roots and foliage, forces more roots. Don't use it after week 1 of flower. All through veg is great.
We did side by side tests. Been through the bunch, Acadian, Maxi, SM6 (UK) and a few I can't remember. many folk won't get a lot of response from a good seaweed product if they really don't have their nutrition dialed in. That means having enough Ca and P most times. Most folk don't. All the seaweed in the world can't get you past the big problems. This is why many say, oh, tried it and I didn't see much. But that can also come from low hormone content. Many seaweed products aren't actually made for fertilizer use