help making fem autos

so I've got some autos in my tent and trying to turn one male with colloidal silver, but I haven't been spraying it 2-3 times a day maybe just once a day or every day and a half. I see new white pistils popping up and am worried as I've been spraying it for what feels like a week or two lol. I am thinking of moving it to another tent that I can get to more often (2-3 times a day to spray). thoughts? suggestions?Im about to pick up some more colloidal silver today and was wondering if it would help it turn male quicker if I get the higher ppm shit?

also I'm using 150 ppm and see that it burns the pistils or something but it does not seem to be switching to male like it' supposed to and its shooting out new white pistils..

The stuff off the shelf is supposed to be garbage. I used to make autoflower seeds using this -

First off this was not writen by me , it was done by cabron , and it was the tutorial i learned from , i used my pic of the adaptor and wires , looks the same as his and i didnt link a pic from another canna site , there are pages and pages of discussion but the first couple posts from him are basically all we need and all ive posted here

This is dedicated to those that want to experiment with some Gals that they cherish...
Original Method I used from day 1 since releasing this info back at CW many years ago..

Follow it exactly and you will be successful...

The Definitive Colloidal Silver Production tutorial
Colloidal Silver aka: Silver suspended in water
Is nothing new and has been used for over a hundred years for various purposes.
Silver in itself is an impeccable sterilizing metal that is very precious..

My focus is using this metal in a wire form to create an electrode of both - and +
to submerse in a pure water free from dissolved solids and break the silver down into
the smallest particles possible.
We are in essence trying to penetrate the plant's epidermal layer and deliver the silver
particles to the cellular level to interfere with the ethylene production and ultimately
suppress it.

This done to a female staminate plant will create a full reversal when all goes well and
the results are viable pollen that will donate all the DNA and RNA that her lineage has
to offer,be it good or bad.

This is simply not going to create an exact clone or duplicate of the gal that is reversed any more than hitting her with pollen from a male sibling from her generation.

I want to make that clear ...
The results with your feminised breeding will be based solely on your ability to select a proper parent
on both sides of the equation be it donor or receptor.
This is merely a means to an end.

I will be using 14 gauge wire pharmaceutical silver that is 99.999% pure silver.
The wire configuration lends itself exceptionally well to the electrical erosion and
creation of silver particles,when combined with the voltages ,MA,duration,and O2
Enriched water that I outline in this tutorial.
12 gauge -14 gauge is ideal .
You simply cannot expect the same results with a silver bar for example as it's surface
area is far greater and the results will not be the same as the wire.
So stick to my detailed instructions exactly ...
This is in my opinion the ideal configuration and quality to use for this application.
I will be using pure RO water, nothing else (no sodium ever!)
Distilled water is also ideal,,but the emphasis has to be water that is pure and without and dissolved solids.

The power supply needs to be no higher than 800 ma for best results and an ideal voltage is under 9 volts, I like 6 to 7.5 the best.

My Old radioshack DC power supply has been going strong for 10 years.

An airstone was used by me initially as it is proven that an elevated dissolved oxygen
level in the water during electrolysis of the silver anodes allows a more efficient process and thus a smaller particle.

Remember this is paramount! the smaller the silver particle the better it will work!
lower voltage also allows a slower less erratic erosion of the silver wire and yet again smaller particles,rather than a larger amount of electricity and a larger flake.35-40 PPM is what you are aiming for

The Airstone incorporated into the CS process is Essential !! Mandatory and needed!!! I hope I made that clear!

The airstone needs to be placed in the container (preferably glass) prior to starting
the process.

for the last year or so ive been using just an airline , no air stone , this batch im making now i used a stone

i was a bit worried something had gone wrong and it wasnt working well due to my silver wires not getting overly dirty and building up with gunk , i just shut it off and then turned off the lights , checked with a lazer pointer and BOOM full of sparkles , like done , can stop brewing and start useing it , and not once did any gunk build up on the wires or in the bottom of the jar , yes the wires changed colour and got a dirty look , but no gunk/sludge

I usually only make enough to treat 1 small plant at a time and don't use any that is
beyond 30 days old.
This is why the crap they sell at GNC for example is not going to work..

1st it's made properly and 2nd CS has a shelf life.

Here is what my wires look like ...
Nothing fancy just 7" lengths attached to the DC power leads..
Don't ever let the leads from the voltage supply contact the water,only the silver!
[​IMG]
The power supply is set at 7.5 volts and verified with my voltmeter!
Ranges from 6-9 vdc are ideal and 300 ma being minimal
but 800 maximum....
Spacing for the electrodes or wires is best at 2" or below..
I like 1/2" gap between them ,,,never touching of course!!
You will need to wipe the positively charged anode
every two hours.
This keeps a clean surface and the electrode surface unobstructed
in return she will continue the electro erosion process running smoothly
and particles will be the same size .
This also prevents that black build up of by product on the bottom.
It will turn black ,a paper towel is fine, wipe them both down while
you're at it!

Clean electrodes are happy electrodes!

once made, spray your plant once a day up to twice a day, but no more then twice, continue dayly spraying for about 2 weeks or until the male pollen sacs appear ready to release pollen, do not stop spraying at first signs of male flowers

with a photo period plant that is a known female/clone, start spraying her a few days before going 12/12

with an auto, start spraying at first sign of sex/pre flowers

make a pint/quart at a time , even a litre if you wish , approx 300 ml is needed for an average plant , less of course for a small plant or clone

I make it a regular practice to harvest the pollen into a petrie dish and
then brush the pollen onto target areas with a small detail brush.

If you are going to pollenate a whole room of target mothers then just place
her in front of the fan and kick the shit outta her!

keep in mind the plant kinda goes through TWO pre flowering phases , so if you want a plant flowering by a certain date , start her 2 weeks before you normally would

peace

EDIT oct 12 , 2013 : for those of us who consume/use c.s for personal health benefits ,,,,,,

One of the concerns about taking colloidal silver is a skin condition called argyria. Argyria is a condition where the skin turns grey or blue-grey. It is a real condition and it is difficult to reverse, but it is not caused by pure colloidal silver.
Let us define "colloidal silver" as: a solution made with pure silver wires (e.g. at least 99.95% pure silver), mixed with pure distilled water, and absolutely nothing is added to the water (i.e. no salt, no minerals, no nothing).
With this definition of colloidal silver, argyria is not possible. Argyria is caused by using silver compounds (meaning non-silver molecules are mixed with the silver or something is mixed with the water). Essentially argyria is caused by impurities in the mixture.
If a silver compound is called "colloidal silver," the vendor doesn't know what they are doing and probably doesn't care. The problem is with poor vendors, not with true and pure colloidal silver. That is one major reason to make it yourself.
It is essential to use distilled water, distilled by water distillation, when making colloidal silver. Do NOT add salt or minerals to the water or it may cause the skin discoloration. When the colloidal silver is made, if it is not consumed immediately (as soon as it cools down if useing heat), it should be stored in a dark colored glass bottle and the glass bottle or jar must be stored in a dark place (but do NOT refrigerate it). Silver will chemically react to light (technically it is more complicated than that).
NEVER, NEVER get your silver from a jeweler because their sterling silver has nickel and copper added to it!! Using sterling silver can cause serious health problems. Silver nitrate and silver chloride should obviously be avoided since neither are pure silver.

thanks a lot Loc Dog I used that method and managed to get some pollen and a seed from a plant I like to call purple skunk and am planning to cross that with my most vigorous auto from batch of about 20. I might be sending you some testers free in the future

quote

quote

Loc Dog said:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=239154

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Since I posted that, I was looking to make some seeds, and a master breeder gave me this. It is quicker, and easier. Use it if it makes sense.

Still, do not smoke a sprayed plant. Some spray a branch, and flower the rest and smoke it. I would not do that. It is a bit of work doing with silver rods, cleaning them, and/if airstones clog -

.5G Silver Nitrate into 500ml RO

2.5 grams Sodium Thiosulfate Anhydrous into 500ML RO

(if you use sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate use 3.9 grams in 500ml ro).


Pour the silver into the Sodium mixing rapidly to make your Stock Solution. If done backwards the solution will turn brown/Black.

You will need to redo the correct way if its black.

Mix For A 1:7 Spray

100MLS OF STOCK INTO 700ML RO. Ready to use on plants. Spray plants the day you flip soaking plants well.

Apply 3 more time every 2 days.
I found plants fully reverse better with 4 applications.

I got a male autoflower plant by accident. Its an Acapulco Gold from Barneys Farm seeds. These seeds are labeled feminised. It started popping balls at 3 weeks of growth. I have a White Widow fem autoflower in bloom now that is making a few seeds from this male. I'm gonna try and keep this male alive and flower it again in the future.

lol hate to be the bearer of bad news BUT autoflowers have a set lifespan meaning you can't really flower and then re veg however the seeds you grow out will probably have some hermi traits essentially meaning you won't have to pay for good quality seeds for a while if your'e ok with a few seeds here and there in your bud.

autos rule

autos rule

Derty said:

I got a male autoflower plant by accident. Its an Acapulco Gold from Barneys Farm seeds. These seeds are labeled feminised. It started popping balls at 3 weeks of growth. I have a White Widow fem autoflower in bloom now that is making a few seeds from this male. I'm gonna try and keep this male alive and flower it again in the future.

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this collodial silver is a good way to ensure you wont be passing down hermaphrodite traits to the next generation and is simple enough most people can do it.

master kusher said:

this collodial silver is a good way to ensure you wont be passing down hermaphrodite traits to the next generation and is simple enough most people can do it.

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Not true...

If you use silver on a herm plant you will be producing herm plants still.

You wont know with autos until it's too late because you don't get an opportunity to stress test the parents.

If a person is dead set on producing Fem Autos, I would suggest reversing & selfing several females & keeping seed seperated plant to plant so you can test individual seed batches.

easiest way to make herm plant//needed to grow feminized// is shock with light,,, grow em normally to say ,,mid flowering,, and then keep em very close to light source //1w diodes systems close to 1cm,, 3w diodes to 3-5cm//, it will burn, deform and herm the plants top but not burn them with the heat ,,,so only with leds possible
also one possible way to show latent hermie trait

and dont fear pollen to use, as most regular strains hermie under this unnatural high energy conditions, or do a test with new feminized culture
or simply use this method only for distract this latent hermie traits between your parents and use colloidal silver

Lol man your supposed to spray the plant since a week or two before it starts flowering and until you see its a male. when it does start flowering the female hormone is blocked and you get a male plant from an otherwise female plant. This "male" will only make female seeds because it has no "Y" chromosomes only "X"

Hello I pulled one top of because I was in fear of not enough airflow and am wondering if I'm STILL pulling the plants (for beans) too early I'be been doing that quite a bit (harvesting beans early) because it's new to me and am wondering....I still left quite a bit more on the plant.

master kusher said:

this collodial silver is a good way to ensure you wont be passing down hermaphrodite traits to the next generation and is simple enough most people can do it.

Click to expand...

The male plant is I used is not a hermie. Bred to a feminized autoflower. I got seeds on it that I'm waiting for to ripen. I presume that the offspring will be regular autoflower female and male plants. We shall see what we get when I grow out the seeds. I will post the results with photos on the first round.

I will be back crossing the first male when these new female ones start to bud. I may do some with the collidial silver as well.

something very weird has happened, after spraying my auto and it turning completely male and flowering it started to turn female; so I cut off all of the male parts (ripe for the picking I guess) and am gonna see what it can do since its been in a 2 gallon I'm going to plant it into a 5 gallon so it can take off. unexpected surprise for sure. also have my beans, most are still on the vine and am kind of scared to pick them as I have picked a whole lot of beans too early making my efforts meaningless. Is there any well known ways to tell when the seeds are ready to pick?

P.S. despite having a lot of seeds coming shortly, I still have the buying bug and am looking at over $300 in seeds I fully intend to order. lmfao!

I'm thinking about doing an outdoor fem. auto seed run. If I do I'll give out plenty of free 3 packs of fem autos. Not to sure yet though.