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A5 S1 test Thread

THC123

Active member
Veteran
I am pretty sure they will, it is only 11 liters. They will first veg for a month regardless of the 12/12 cycle, an then it is another 14 weeks of flowering. These plants become huge during the elongation phase in the first half of flowering. A5 is a real jungle plant lol even if there is some NL in there. It stretches like a motherfuckers if it is anything like the ag13 mom I used to have.
 

LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
I am pretty sure they will, it is only 11 liters. They will first veg for a month regardless of the 12/12 cycle, an then it is another 14 weeks of flowering. These plants become huge during the elongation phase in the first half of flowering. A5 is a real jungle plant lol even if there is some NL in there. It stretches like a motherfuckers if it is anything like the ag13 mom I used to have.

So are you starting them on 12/12?
 

THC123

Active member
Veteran
Yes 12/12 from germination onwards, from beginning to end.

The a5 cut is really sativa dominant and gets huge, even from cuttings they would yield ok directly on 12/12.

These are s1's so maybe some phenos could be more indica(NL) I don't know, but if they resemble the cut they should have no problem with directly 12/12.

Sativas come from the equatorial regions where it is constant 12/12 so they will attain a reasonable size. I would never do 12/12 directly with something indica dominant like Karma's Happy Brother. Then I would just get one main cola and a few branches. But the a5 is another story.

Plus don't forget seedlings are always extra vigorious.

In the past I flowered some seedlings directly from 12/12, hybrids, and they yielded about 50-80 grams per plant. They grew like an autoflower almost. About 4 weeks automatic veg and then they start flowering.

Btw small correction to info, I was pretty high (surprise surprise) and I used 20 liter pots instead of 11. This should maximize the size during the short veg period.

Also, small update: one a5 is not going to make it I think. It looks weak with a very thin stem and I think it is dying. This is not Karma's fault but mine. I was too lazy to use trays for the rooting cubes. WHen I was transporting the cubes to the tent one cube fell over and the germinated seedling fell out of the cube with bare taproot and all. I teared the cube open and carefully placed it back, but it seems the roots are damaged.

I will probably replace it with a Haze freak seedling, which is an ag13 bx1. For the rest all other karma beans I have are regular and I want this to be a haze grow.
 

nickman

Active member
Veteran
Just curious about the A5 S1’s...!!!... does anyone know how many weeks they will stretch for...???...

I’m just wondering...!!!...

I can’t wait to see some of these S1’s...!!!...





Good Vibes to everyone growing these and the crosses...!!!...
:tiphat:...
 

Fronk

Well-known member
5 week stretch on A5 x Malawi (front left).
 

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JohnnyChicago

Well-known member
Also, small update: one a5 is not going to make it I think. It looks weak with a very thin stem and I think it is dying. This is not Karma's fault but mine. I was too lazy to use trays for the rooting cubes. WHen I was transporting the cubes to the tent one cube fell over and the germinated seedling fell out of the cube with bare taproot and all. I teared the cube open and carefully placed it back, but it seems the roots are damaged.

I will probably replace it with a Haze freak seedling, which is an ag13 bx1. For the rest all other karma beans I have are regular and I want this to be a haze grow.


She will recover. I made the same mistake as you :biggrin:


Plus don't forget seedlings are always extra vigorious.

Pot fell upside down on the floor on day 1 or 2, soil fell out of the cup, stem got snapped, but it survived


picture.php
 

LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
Yes 12/12 from germination onwards, from beginning to end.

The a5 cut is really sativa dominant and gets huge, even from cuttings they would yield ok directly on 12/12.

These are s1's so maybe some phenos could be more indica(NL) I don't know, but if they resemble the cut they should have no problem with directly 12/12.

Sativas come from the equatorial regions where it is constant 12/12 so they will attain a reasonable size. I would never do 12/12 directly with something indica dominant like Karma's Happy Brother. Then I would just get one main cola and a few branches. But the a5 is another story.

Plus don't forget seedlings are always extra vigorious.

In the past I flowered some seedlings directly from 12/12, hybrids, and they yielded about 50-80 grams per plant. They grew like an autoflower almost. About 4 weeks automatic veg and then they start flowering.

Btw small correction to info, I was pretty high (surprise surprise) and I used 20 liter pots instead of 11. This should maximize the size during the short veg period.

Also, small update: one a5 is not going to make it I think. It looks weak with a very thin stem and I think it is dying. This is not Karma's fault but mine. I was too lazy to use trays for the rooting cubes. WHen I was transporting the cubes to the tent one cube fell over and the germinated seedling fell out of the cube with bare taproot and all. I teared the cube open and carefully placed it back, but it seems the roots are damaged.

I will probably replace it with a Haze freak seedling, which is an ag13 bx1. For the rest all other karma beans I have are regular and I want this to be a haze grow.

Thats a loaded question honestly if its one of the haze A leaners it will tend to just keep on stretching. I had a 20+week oldtimers haze that only stopped stretching at approximately ~12-15 weeks. Night vs Daytime temps and overall environment and vpd will affect it greatly as well.

I have read reports of winter sativa grows that report much easier, healthier and denser growth with better final results at lower temps and lower RH.

Anyone have more info on the Bandaid Haze #7?
 

Karma G

Well-known member
Vendor
Veteran
Bandaidhaze7 was bred by Bodhi selected by Doc D.

Its a Cuban Black Haze x A5hzThai the A5hzthai seeds came from a local here in south netgerlands when he seeded up his production room early 2000.
I send out a lot of them afther 2010 germ rates where already low. Bodhi only got 1 to germ and it was a male.

The Bandaidhaze7 fits in betweeb the old cuts she is on Par and can stay next to them.

Flowers 14 to 15 weeks.
 

LostTribe

Well-known member
Premium user
Bandaidhaze7 was bred by Bodhi selected by Doc D.

Its a Cuban Black Haze x A5hzThai the A5hzthai seeds came from a local here in south netgerlands when he seeded up his production room early 2000.
I send out a lot of them afther 2010 germ rates where already low. Bodhi only got 1 to germ and it was a male.

The Bandaidhaze7 fits in betweeb the old cuts she is on Par and can stay next to them.

Flowers 14 to 15 weeks.

Its sounds very interesting!
LT
 

Alpen rock

Active member
Thanks for the info Karma
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sye will recover. I made the same mistake as you
biggrin.gif

[/FONT]


lol, me too, my dog (who loves to sniff and nib the plants:)) slamed the cupboard door on a very young seedling, the very soft stem base snapped, I tear opened the rockwool cube and replaced it, keeping a high RH, the growth got a bit stunted but it recovered in a few days and roots perked at the bottom after a week...


Tagging along for the show, Ill probably never grow these stretchy gems, as I am 1 meter headspace short in my growbox!!!
 

THC123

Active member
Veteran
Hi Aplenrock:

Sadly she didn't make it. I had 2 plants where this happened. One didn't make it so now I have 11 plants left.

I tried germing 4 more beans. Normally I wanted to germ one haze freak. But I have recently recovered my old seed collection and when I saw it I just couldn't help myself and took 4 Nederzaad 2007 beans.

And I godfuckingDAMMIT have "that" problem again. So the seeds opened after 36 hours (they are 13 years old so that's pretty good. But cuz I have to use a heating mat in winter the cubes dried out pretty quickly. I made them moist again (not wet, I really squeezed the cubes. And they all rotted away with a white fuzz). Normally this is cause by too wet conditions with little air. I often have this when trying to make cubes with germing seeds moist again. I never have this problem without heating mat cuz then the cubes don't dry out before the seeds have germed. Next time I'll use even less water and Ill spray it on the cubes.... a shame bout those old beans, luckily there are many many many more.

For the rest the Karma gear is doing good! Will do an update soon. They are growing a bit slower than I am used to. Normally I keep my hatched seedlings in a propagator for the first 2 weeks. They really grow like a rocket in there. But now they are under strong LED lights and the humidity is really low 20-30%. I am now misting the seedlings 3 times a day with water to give them some humidity on the leaves.

I already notice 2 phenos: a thin leaves (probably) haze leaning pheno and one with wider indica hybrid leaves. Most have the thin leaves. Really excited about the smells I will experience.

The fluence light is amazing!!!! It gives off so little heat(compared to HPS 600 watt or other LEDs) that I don't need active air intake and the exhaust is on 30% capacity. I think I can even use these babies in summer. I can touch the lights with my hand, they are nice and warm in a comfortable way but they do not radiate heat or burn. I am sure this will make for an exceptional quality. IME tents are not really suited for growing with HPS lights if you want the best possible quality. Even with a 750 cubic metres air exhaust and active intake I was never able to properly control the heat of the HPS lamps. And even when the canopy was at a 24-26 degrees celsius, you could just feel the heat from the bulb. Every indoor grow I did I always had amazing buds but not so much smell and not so sticky as outdoors. The bottoms flowers in the shades were always smelly and sticky. I am sure this will be a thing of the past with this light!!
 

THC123

Active member
Veteran
I planted 6 more beans today to replace the a5 that was lost.

I planted one Killer A5, even though it will be about 10 days behind the rest, it would be really interesting to compare.

The others are 3 times Nederzaad Green Dragon x Beige x white(haze x skunk) and 2 times Nederzaad 2008 which is cali orange bud x green dragon.

The one killer a5 suffices, but I really just have to get those old seeds to germ and I have to check if the new measures will prevent that damn mold.
 

THC123

Active member
Veteran
Update Part 1

from yesterday:

The plants are doing okay but they are much smaller than I am used to at 2 weeks of age. All but one had about 5-7 days slowdown after rearing their heads because the seed wouldn't open so they stretched untill the seed husk finally fell off 5-7 days later.

Normally in such situations I try to remove it gently. However with these precious beans I just remained patient untill they did it themselves. The difference in size between the one plant that came out of the ground without seedhusk is quite remarkable.


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The fluence lights are remarkable when it comes to how cool they operate. Even when I put them at 3 inches from the plants it doesnt get too hot. I can perfectly control the temperature now. With HPS this was simply impossible.

But I see one problem with these lights. Optimal distance to plants is 6 inches. At the moment this is no problem as the plants are small and I can put them close together. But at 6 inches distance, I don't get total coverage of my 5 x 5 foot area, the sides have much less light at this distance. I would say these lights are perfect for a 4 x 4 area. Thinking bout ordering some LED strips to install on all 4 sides of the tent so I can increase coverage without too much power consumption. Anyone got some tips as for brand etc???

As you may see (not sure if it is clear enough in the pic, the plant in the upper right corner came up without seed husk still attached and started growing rightaway. It is almost double the size of the others and triple of some others.

The plants look droopy because all the plants just had a rain session. The ones with a colored label are the HPH x A5 x Skunk. The other ones are A5 and the small one in the foreground is Killer A5 to replace the lost a5 s1.

Humidity is really low, the caliber just says LL which means too low to pick up. So I give them rain once per day at least. This way they get a bit of humidity plus it helps to get the soil uniform moist without wetting it too much or compacting it. Since I have been doing this they also have been growing faster.

A5 s1

The A5 seedlings were the slowest to remove their husks. They are also having trouble with the soil mix I used. It is too hot for the roots. All of them have yellow coloring that is slowly turning green. SO the new shoots start yellow, almost fluorescent and then slowly turn green.The soil is NPK 10-20-30 and is regular potting soil mixed with perlite and beneficials + powdered lava rock. I have grown landrace sativa's on this mix, but somehow the A5 is really sensitive. Next time I run her I will take this into account and pregrow her in lighter soil. They only had plain water and water mixed with beneficial bacteria.

For the rest they are slowly but surely picking up speed. One of them is a freak, I am just gonna leave her to do her thing, let's see if she will ever grow normally. I have seen this in the past with Santa Maria seeds and they also started growing normally after some time.

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You can really tell there are 2 phenos in here, one more NLD and one more BLD, let's see how this translates to aromas !!!
 

THC123

Active member
Veteran
Update part 2

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A5 S1 Freak, the black sheep of the family, a special needs kid Let's see what she does for the fun since I am not growing for cash lol.


A5 x HPH X Skunk

These plants are more vigorious than the A5 S1 seedlings, probably due to hybrid vigour. They also react normally to the standard soil mix.

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THC123

Active member
Veteran
Update part 3



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A5 x HPH x Skunk

They are also all very uniform.



360.jpg

A new IPM strategy, I used tape to secure carpets to the floor to hopefully stop any mites that want to climb the pot to reach the plants.

Because I had a horrible shoulder and arm injury I was not able to install it at the beginning of the grow so despite all other measures and cleaning and disinfecting, I already have mites on the plants.

They are too small to already put out green lacewing larvae so I will now spray them every 5 days with Rogis Wonderspray. This spray is safe for the predators so I can use this untill they reach a bigger size.

I am now impatiently awaiting the delivery of an oscillating clip on fan as the plants really need some more air movement fast to get thicker stems.

I am excited to see the A5 s1 seedlings develop over the coming weeks. I see them every day and I can tell they are recovering from the hot soil and getting used to it. Day by day they get greener and are picking up speed so I am sure they will be okay in the end.

If anyone has tips, they are welcome. Flushing won't be any use IMO because everything they need is in the soil and that doesn't get flushed out easily. The a5's are recovering but if I can speed it up it would be nice. But how do you make a soil mix less hot when the plants are already growing in the container?
 

THC123

Active member
Veteran
Just measured the PH of my tapwater because I feel the plants are growing unusually slow. It is 7.5.....maybe this is why they are growing slower? I don't see signs of nute lockout, but some do have twisted leaves.

I grow organically and never measured my PH before because I never had problems. I will now give them rainwater to see if they will pick up speed.

I am just looking to solve the issue I am having.

The thing is, I have used this tapwater for years (when growing indoors, outdoors always collected rainwater). Things always went very well.

For the rest there are only 3 variables that have changed:

1. I now use a Fluence spydr (345 watt) for the first time. Maybe they grow slower than under the sun or under a 600 watt HPS with this light?

2. I added some lava powder to the soil mix, I can't imagine this being the reason, but who knows.

3. I read online that starting seedlings direct in a big container causes them to grow slower. But IME the opposite is true, plants in the ground or big pots always grew faster and BIGGER in the past compared to starting them in a small pot.

But yeah so 4 potential causes: Tapwater PH, lava powder added, new grow light, starting in big container. WHat do you guys think?

Let's see how they will react to rainwater. If it makes a big difference I will adjust the PH of my tapwater (because in winter rainwater is fucking cold).

Apart from the problems the A5 is having with the hot soil, they look healthy, it is just that they grow slow. Normally in a big pot, after 14-18 days I should see already BIG leaves forming. They still look as if they are in a small container....

I know it is not the genetics, but with these genetics it sucks when things don't go perfect. So I really want to solve the issue.
 

RoyalFlush

DEA Agent
Just measured the PH of my tapwater because I feel the plants are growing unusually slow. It is 7.5.....maybe this is why they are growing slower? I don't see signs of nute lockout, but some do have twisted leaves.

I grow organically and never measured my PH before because I never had problems. I will now give them rainwater to see if they will pick up speed.

I am just looking to solve the issue I am having.

The thing is, I have used this tapwater for years (when growing indoors, outdoors always collected rainwater). Things always went very well.

For the rest there are only 3 variables that have changed:

1. I now use a Fluence spydr (345 watt) for the first time. Maybe they grow slower than under the sun or under a 600 watt HPS with this light?

2. I added some lava powder to the soil mix, I can't imagine this being the reason, but who knows.

3. I read online that starting seedlings direct in a big container causes them to grow slower. But IME the opposite is true, plants in the ground or big pots always grew faster and BIGGER in the past compared to starting them in a small pot.

But yeah so 4 potential causes: Tapwater PH, lava powder added, new grow light, starting in big container. WHat do you guys think?

Let's see how they will react to rainwater. If it makes a big difference I will adjust the PH of my tapwater (because in winter rainwater is fucking cold).

Apart from the problems the A5 is having with the hot soil, they look healthy, it is just that they grow slow. Normally in a big pot, after 14-18 days I should see already BIG leaves forming. They still look as if they are in a small container....

I know it is not the genetics, but with these genetics it sucks when things don't go perfect. So I really want to solve the issue.

I was going to ask everyone about their A5 S1's, if they had problems with sickly/TMV looking plants ( leaf curl, some pale, blotchy leaves), but then again some might just be more ph/ppm sensitive then others.
 

THC123

Active member
Veteran
It is not just the A5 also the cross. The a5 is sensitive yes, and has some yellow coloration due to the standard soil being a bit too hot atm.

But the HPH X Skunk X A5 is looking normal. I will post new pictures later to better illustrate what I mean.

It is purely about the plant size. They were planted 16 days ago. Normally when I plant in big containers or in the ground outdoors, I really see the small seedlings growing faster with enormous fanleaves and healthy vibrant new shoots. Mine don't look that bad per se, but it is a far cry from how they normally look (especially size).

All but one of the 12 plants look like they have been planted in a 1/4 gallon (1 liter) pot stead of a 5 gallon. It is like they don't realize they have all this rootspace, is the taproot sleeping or what? Go measure up that container size bitch and adjust your size please :D

I am pretty sure it is not the genetics ! (apart from the a5 being sensitive to high N but that was to be expected with these genetics)

I also have one other issue with the lights: The Fluence lights have a perfect 4 x 4 coverage. My tent is 5x5 and I really see that the sides and corners get a LOT less light. Only when I raise the lights 30-40 cm from the plants the total area is covered well, but that is way to far from the plants. They should be kept at 6-12 inches distance from the canopy for a good light intensity. I even keep mine 2-3 inch from the canopy at the moment because those lights produce so little heat (more DLI per day). At the moment this is not an issue, but once plants get bigger I will need total coverage.

I was thinking of using LED strips (the ones in a 5 metre roll to cover the sides OR 8 of these lights -->https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Equivalent-Spectrum-Reflector-Greenhouse/dp/B07ZJLWXFR/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

This will add 192 WATT consumption to the 345 Watts but I don't care that much. My next fluence light will be the 630 version. You can keep this one at a much greater distance (when not using CO2) so this would give me total coverage (and in this case I will have same light intensity as the 345 version)

Is this a good idea or is this throwing money away? And what would be the best option? The strips or the ones with reflector? Strips consumes way less and is so much cheaper but I am not sure if they will be sufficient. It is just to better illuminate the outer sides and corners.
 

RoyalFlush

DEA Agent
It is not just the A5 also the cross. The a5 is sensitive yes, and has some yellow coloration due to the standard soil being a bit too hot atm.

But the HPH X Skunk X A5 is looking normal. I will post new pictures later to better illustrate what I mean.

It is purely about the plant size. They were planted 16 days ago. Normally when I plant in big containers or in the ground outdoors, I really see the small seedlings growing faster with enormous fanleaves and healthy vibrant new shoots. Mine don't look that bad per se, but it is a far cry from how they normally look (especially size).

All but one of the 12 plants look like they have been planted in a 1/4 gallon (1 liter) pot stead of a 5 gallon. It is like they don't realize they have all this rootspace, is the taproot sleeping or what? Go measure up that container size bitch and adjust your size please :D

I am pretty sure it is not the genetics ! (apart from the a5 being sensitive to high N but that was to be expected with these genetics)

I also have one other issue with the lights: The Fluence lights have a perfect 4 x 4 coverage. My tent is 5x5 and I really see that the sides and corners get a LOT less light. Only when I raise the lights 30-40 cm from the plants the total area is covered well, but that is way to far from the plants. They should be kept at 6-12 inches distance from the canopy for a good light intensity. I even keep mine 2-3 inch from the canopy at the moment because those lights produce so little heat (more DLI per day). At the moment this is not an issue, but once plants get bigger I will need total coverage.

I was thinking of using LED strips (the ones in a 5 metre roll to cover the sides OR 8 of these lights -->https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Equivalent-Spectrum-Reflector-Greenhouse/dp/B07ZJLWXFR/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

This will add 192 WATT consumption to the 345 Watts but I don't care that much. My next fluence light will be the 630 version. You can keep this one at a much greater distance (when not using CO2) so this would give me total coverage (and in this case I will have same light intensity as the 345 version)

Is this a good idea or is this throwing money away? And what would be the best option? The strips or the ones with reflector? Strips consumes way less and is so much cheaper but I am not sure if they will be sufficient. It is just to better illuminate the outer sides and corners.

light isn't the issue because I had the same symptoms on my plants and their under 400 HID.
 
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