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Is there any chance of Harvesting a pure 20-24 week Sativa at 45 degree?

Pepé The Grower

Member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Did anyone try such a crazy thing? I mean you would shure harvest a tiny bud, but would that turn out?
Any experiences at around 45 degre north.. middle europe?

I see 2 main Problems and one wich might be no problem:
1: Here it often only snows around end of december, so frost could kill plants, but i have hope cause i often heard that thais are extremly frost resistant. So maybe it would live until end of december if you lucky and it doesent earlier.
2. Light intensity: in their natural habitat sativas have high light intensity, and i multiple times heard in indoor growing you need stronger lamps as average. So this seems unsolvable.
3: no problem seems to be mold, cause in their habitat sativas have still higher humidity than here, so they are mostly humidity resistent.

So the biggest problem stays lightintensity.
But on the floweringtime side i just would consider harvesting very early, wich would make a little harvest, not tasting as good, but early harvest TO A CERTAIN DEGREE can eventually even intensivy some sativas trippyness.
Aswell there is a soulution of prevegging for about two months indoor to gain an earlier harvest. But i think i heard some lineges arent impressed by preflowering as much as others if i racall this right. But how much can you shorten harvet time? is there a limit? Cause otherwise this seems the easiest soulution for theharvest-time-problem. Easy seems to be that if i recall right , that in early vegetation you have a big variety of Lamps wich can be used. Aswell lighting cycles seem rather unimportant. I even heard plants dont need pure dark at night , but some said sativas can hermie if not dark at night.. so if that hasent effect on hermies, then you could even just install some lights in the corner of your bedroom.
And the expences for 2 months wouldnt be that great, so easy and quiet cheap.

So if anyone has any tipps how to grow a puure 20 to 24 week flowering sativa please tell. I dont care for Taste, just wanna know if someone managed to get some strong sativa at around 45 degree north? And i never heard someone talk closer about that topic elswhere, so i would have a clue after it.

Thanx

I did that,several times with different results, no light deprivation, no greenhouse, just plant in the ground. I'm @46°N, far from the coast (like 400km far).

Plants had to be harvested by mid to early end of december because then they'll die from the frost.

Key to success is watering your plants enough but not too much (or mold become an issue in both case, too much or not enough water)...even if it's strange to do that when the weather is cold and foggy most of the time, you have to keep them roots well hydrated.


Here is one of these experiment, that poor girl even had to suffer snow for a few days in november. Picture is mid to late december.
picture.php


Was the result smokeable? of course, but it looked ugly,so much nobody would buy it...i had almost a KG of buds from this plant...i made hash with all of it, and i'm still vaping and enjoying it to this day;)
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
So then, this are the alternatives: Lamps, what you should think about when dooing indoor, with lamps i just copy and paste into here ehat i already wrote.. just alternatives: here we go:




I heard you can use many different lamp-types , or models, CAUSE if you only use one, you got a very unflat frequency/color spectrum. there are many spikes/colors wich are much stronger shining.. For me its actually very easy to imagine that indoor is just a bader copy of Nature... atleast regarding light. So if you combine multiple diffrent types you flaten out the spectrum, so you could actually come closer to nature. But consider at equator the OVERAL lightintensity is stronger.. not a certain spikes, and cause many of tripweeed-genetics are around equator, you may be better off with indoor if you life at north.. There is a lamp wich shines lik natural light, but costs 100 thousands .. I think its to expensive, and you can see it with your eyes, if it is turned on in a complete dark room, it looks like midsummer at noon.. So i dont know if its important to have a flat frequeny Response, but since cannabis loves sun, i would check this parameter at first.. And like already researched there seems not to be an extra amount of uv at equator, atleat i didnt read this... it could only be that plats react only to uv-frequency, and therefore this is the only frequency you need to care of, but i doubt it.. If plant react also to red differently, wich is on the other side of Lightspectrum it looks rather that they react to full spectrum.. most species, humans, animals , plants react to the same frequencys like us, humans.. There are only rare eceptions sometimes in insects per example bees can see above, or below our spectrum, but this is rare..

spectrum of
sunlight:
picture.php


metal halyde:
picture.php


hps:
picture.php


I dont know all the lamps, but this is an example of some.. all are not flat in spectrum, thats why combining should help to flaten out. And im not anti-indoor..

And for the freaks the natural sunlight lamp for 100 thousands is from a company called coelux. just google if like
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
yes, i found one lamp that has a very flat response troughout the spectrum.
lep lamps , light edmitting plasama lamp.. this should be close enough
Its just more epensive..

lep on the left side:

picture.php

user_online.gif
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
i just wanna point out that our assumably tripweed experienced thaibliss found the results of plasma lamps the most promising, and lowfalutin was impressed by skylights(wholes in roof,sunlight) was better than indoor, aswell as a banghi haze of thaibliss indors toped a bunch of supossedly much more tripweed-genetics he grow outdoors in clearness, same description by lowfalutin the exact same strain was having amuch more clear effect under skylights.. I hear the same difference in effect described by bouth, bout icmagers here, but thats my suggestion. I just come to conclusion that the full spectrum aswell as the intensity are important.. And also dont forget warmth /heat and humidity... cause why is weed in greenhouse that different in vigour, getting so fat, smelling so full compared to outdoor, shurely not cause of sun-intensity, no cause of warmth, humidity eventually

I dont wanna fill the whole site, but dont know how to minimize.. found a new led-based, flat specrum lamp from Kyocera, dont know if this is good for cannabis:
(left graphic is kyoceras) notice the sunlight-line is also shown

picture.php


And the missing bits in the red and violet i would bring in with thwo other lamps, if needed, im not too shure tho if needed

Incandescent lamp(low efficieny):

picture.php


solarsystem uvb : (ATTENTION dangerous for health)

picture.php
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
Thanx for the tipps, and the pics you showed. They give me a certain hope what we can achieve even here in North. Nice , even i have to add, i still have to see someone staying he smoked the rocketfuel stuff grown at 45 degree.. but looking good (atleast in my Sativaloving eye) and surviving they did..
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
I'm at 45N and every once in a while we get great weather until christmas. That's what I'm hoping for. If it happens, awesome. If not, well that's awesome too because I just like growing and that stuff will go into cobs.
 

big315smooth

mama tried
Veteran
i read other day gonna be warm dry summer. few years back was nicest fall i can remember didnt rain last week and first few into october and was sunny and warm. wish every fall was like that
 

White Beard

Active member
found something about how strong reflective material in indor growing can inrease lighting power . they wrote:

In fact, proper reflection can get up to 30% more light to your cannabis plants! This is all without changing anything else about your setup. No extra electricity, just 30% more light!

mylar material wich is highly effective is even cheap

Indoors, for brightness and intensity, nothing beats flat white paint. White paint is cheaper than films, easier to “install”, and flat white doesn’t reflect light, it *scatters* it - making the whole space brighter. Which is why white walls are standard in dwellings: it makes space brighter, in fact, actual white is so effective at enhancing light levels, they cut it with other colors to soften it, to keep it from being harsh.

Your plants won’t mind that it’s harsh. Use three or more coats.
 

White Beard

Active member
They say: in equator the light intensity isnt less out of no reason.. the reason is cause the sun shines at an different angle.. doing the calculation we see, that for the same amount of light there is more surface shined on at a higher latitude. so ther they get less light per square-foot-meter

They say thats the basically the simple reason.
And therefore forcing the light back into its original angle is actually what i would doo with that.

And to my knowledge i heard a couple times that pure sativas needed the strongest light.. i think its better to try .
But its defenitly risky

Hey -
I think the picture you have in your head, about how this works, is incorrect. Basic earth-science stuff: earth spins on its axis, but that axis is TILTED relative to our orbit, so the sun does not stay over the equator all the time; because of the tilt, the sun spends most of its time wandering north, then south, and the days get longer or shorter because of it; the summer solstice is when the sun is right over the Tropic of Cancer (or Capricorn, depending on 45N or S); an observatory should be able to tell you when the solstice will be.

From Wikipedia:
At this latitude, the Sun is visible for 15 hours 37 minutes during the summer solstice

You should be able to figure out how long to veg indoors before outplanting, by matching up the light cycle indoors with what it will be outside when you shift them. You can make a target date for when you want to flower them, and then let nature take its course.

For example, you veg them for 10-14 weeks, getting their light down to 18/6, give them an extended dark, then plant them out just before solstice.

The days will start to grow shorter again, and between the shock of transplant and the change of light source, they may flower immediately, if you plan it well.

By the way, the tilt has a great deal to do with how the light changes: it’s the distance photons have to travel THROUGH *AIR*, it changes their wavelength as they lose energy - shifting them to the far red, as Lost in a SOG said. Only *extreme* applications of technology and energy would ensure plants would have more light than they can handle.

When you move the plants outside, that red-shift and the variable intensity of direct sunlight will probably have an outsized effect.

Also, you may have taken that bit about ‘sativas only really needing intense light during flower’ too seriously. It sounds like a corner you shouldn’t try to cut off.
 

St. Phatty

Active member
45N - that would be about the same as Silverton Oregon.

You would get 31 days of flowering in August, 30 in September, 31 in October
92 days, about 13 weeks.

So where would the extra 9 weeks come from ? That's 2 months.

Light Dep in July (to get the 12/12) and extra light - outdoors - in November.

it would help if the plants were on wheels in BIG pots.

e.g. 50 to 100 gallon Rubbermaid.

So it can be wheeled indoors for its last 4 weeks of flowering.

Or forget the light dep & use grow lights in November & December to get the extra 2 months.
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
Hey -
Basic earth-science stuff: earth spins on its axis, but that axis is TILTED relative to our orbit, so the sun does not stay over the equator all the time; because of the tilt, the sun spends most of its time wandering north, then south, and the days get longer or shorter because of it

So if at 0th degree sun goes from lightly left( lets call it left and right) to lightly right. (OR left to right to certain amount..) how is that at the 45 degree? Right it goes from far let to lightly left.

So that matches the claim of others, hobbyscientists or who knows who tell: sun at 45 degree is MORE FAR LEFT than at 0 degree where its as much left like it is right, namely centered. overall.
In other words at 45 degree`s sun is more tilted than on 0 degree`s.

In fact at 45 degrees the most intense day sunangle-wise (midsummer) will have exact sun intensity of euatorials least intense day sunanglewise (double-midwinter)
,given an axial tilt of 23 degree of earth to the sun wich we have. right

So in general, overall you will come to a higher tilt at 45 degree overall, resulting in an overall 30 percent less sunintensity they say


Numbers?
0Degree Latitude sweeps between 23 degree + , to - 23 degree
Angle to Sun
45 Degree Latitude sweeps from 68 degree Angle to 22 degree Angle to the Sun

Overall 0Degree`s Latitudes Angle = 0 degree Angle to sun
Overall 45Degree`s Latitudes Angle = 45 degree Angle to sun

The sweeping doesent change the overall higher tilt at 45DegreeLat..
 
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romanoweed

Well-known member
They also told that Light doesent shift to red at 45 Degree latitude , or doo they on northpole have an even more red hue? i never saw that with my eye . The morning, evening red is just a little detail regarding its intensity, so it is not really what i try to imitate, or desimitate (imitate equatorial unredness) , it just doesent seem important ingredients for a euatorial nature-copy i think. But you mean overall more red on 45 degree. They said spectrum doesent change whether on 0, 45 or other degree lat. That was what i googled, and the Graphs of 0 and 45 degree - masurements didnt show any difference in Composition. no no

You wanted just to know if i know what i say. Yes , i, well, have indices wich make me think its possible, scientifical ones. I also told this earlier somehow that i have these graphs showing no big or no diference in spectral light-composition in 45 or 0 degree lat.
There were different soures showing that Light is just mostly stronger at 0 Deg.Lat while using a certain angle-calculation
It was Average calculation.. yearwise. Still , the most intense day at 45 Deg. sunwise shines same strong as the weakest Day at 0 Deg.
So at anytime Intensity will be stronger at 0 Deg. (or same strong for 1 secound) than at 45 Deg. At any Time.. Thats why i think over Reflective reinforcement

Again 68 Degree angle is the sun at shortest day at 45 Deg. , its the 22 Dec north! And that is around the Last remaining days i would flower my Plants untreated! 68 degree, is not very far apart from 90 degree, wich would mean sun below horizon or whatever.. Its very unsunny in December , so i celarly see the Picture of a very lonely depressing Enviroment for a Tropical Plant.... I would also like to know if they flower at doublesummer at Euqator, at wich period, or if they do autoflower (regarding the exact intensity)...
 
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romanoweed

Well-known member
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One year cycle, and its angle to the sun: watch for one of the 5 Rings at once.




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Thcvhunter

Well-known member
Veteran
Ive grown long flowering sativas at 47°
No problem at all

Ive let them go into December, still no problem.

Maybe its my genetics?
 

romanoweed

Well-known member
Thcvhunter,

might really be!
good thought.. would be interesting what kiona would say(He grows Outdooronly and makes it commercially aviable)
I mean he survives as mostly equatorial sativas seller, and he grows outoor where? i dont know exactly, but i bet he automatically chooses Strians as sellable wich also survive the northern roughness, but still provide the most possible Sativaexperience..i said most.

I could imagine that the most brilliant gem wouldnt become commercially aviable as outddoorweed, cause it doesent develop good. I could imagine the opposite too. The vigourus wonder, wich we just see even more rare, than even a pure Landrace.

One that Thcvhunter may have in his Garden..
 
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