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DIY 50 Amp Timer Box/ Sub Panel/ Flip Flop w/ (8) 240V outlets & (2) 120V outlets

slaveinc

New member
Ok so i want to build the same set up with 10 240 plugs controlled by one timer. I have 9 600s. Running these on 240 will be 22.5 amps which means I can run them Off of my dryer plug. i can build and connect the breaker box to the outlets no problem. The problem I am having is how do i incorporate a 120v timer to control the 240v outlets running 5400 watts. Does the the relay just open and close a contact when the timer sends the signal and how do i connect it? I will pay what ever "kind" of green you want for help...
 

Tactician

Member
You want something like this. This unit was wired for 10 x 120V ballasts and 2 x 120V constant. There was a PLC installed inside to delay 2 ballasts at a time to power off and on, programmable down to 1/100 second.
 

Tactician

Member
10 ballast loadcenter.
 

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what the

Member
If I'm running 6 1kW lights at 4.75amps each, that 28.5amps total. Will this contactor handle that?
No.

Relays are cheap, get a couple. At $10 a pop you can get one for each light (although you can get smaller relays).
You need a DPDT relay with a 120V coil rated so you run less than 80% of the rated amps through it. So in your case you'd need at least two of the relays linked.
 

Tactician

Member
I built that and many more. The loadcenter is a Siemens EQL4100, fits 4 1" breaker or 8 tandem, rated for 100A. The 6 gang receptacle box and cover is from Code Electric. Inside is a Siemens LOGO PLC and 5 Omron dpdt 25A relays. Expensive but a very reliable and programmable.
 

Danks2005

Active member
Instead of splitbolts, I would get a jbox and mount the relays, some terminal strips, and wire it nicey. Unless there is space in the subpanel, do this, but cramming it in is not an option.

Nice box Tactician. My goal is to work my way to a completely plc controlled grow op. I just need money for it(which will take a while), I also need to learn a little more about the programming side. If I remember correctly you just need to know ladder diagrams, build your diagram to function as you see fit, download it to processor, proccessor is wired to I/O cards. I'm sure there is more to it(that's ok, i got books), my experience is limited, but I've had my hands in some nice cabs, and every time I see one I thinks about what it "should" be used for.

How cool would it be to have your system send you a message to your smart phone and link you up to your live video, everytime your motion sensor goes off.
 

mule420

Member
Water heater timer's "BAM" done... Pull a white from your sub with the 220 and split a leg in the timer for a 120 volt timed circuit... They cost $40-50 and can pull 40-50 amps with a good timer and some #8 or #6 wire to each timer two of them will run 12 1000 watt lights with room to spare... Been to long since I messed with "ice cube relay's" so I took the easy way out...

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ASUN

New member
TACTICIAN. DO THINK IT WOULD BE POSSIBLE FOR YOU TO START A THREAD ON HOW TO PHISICALY, BUILD A 10 LOAD CENTER STEP BY STEP INCORPORATING A PLC. OR JUST A DEATIL INDEPTH DESCRITION OF ALL THE PARTS THAT GO ALONG WITH A PLC....
 

!PeAcE!

Member
TACTICIAN. DO THINK IT WOULD BE POSSIBLE FOR YOU TO START A THREAD ON HOW TO PHISICALY, BUILD A 10 LOAD CENTER STEP BY STEP INCORPORATING A PLC. OR JUST A DEATIL INDEPTH DESCRITION OF ALL THE PARTS THAT GO ALONG WITH A PLC....

bump bump
 
R

RedRain

wow with the amount of clutter and bad advice getting tossed around like exceeding the max amperage of a contractor or relay, this thread is dangerous!!

how about some high heat shut off for your board? that should be the 1st thing on your list. something that cuts power if the rooms get too hot!!

You also need to calculate the load of your panel and get the appropriate wires, plugs, breakers etc. Are you going to have seperate breakers for your lights? Will your board have constant 120 and timed 120? timed 240 as well?

I am astonished that no one mentioned high heat shut off's, should be number 1 on everyones list!!



I was thinking about this and wanted to make sure this is correct. If the trigger voltage is 120 and the voltage that the relay is switching on and off is 240, is this the correct relay? Also, it shows that this is a 25amp contactor. If I'm running 6 1kW lights at 4.75amps each, that 28.5amps total. Will this contactor handle that? I noticed that you said "a couple" so I couldn't achieve the desired result with only 1 relay?

Wow you use a 110/120v timer to trigger the coil on the 2 pole contactor. The contactor is a safe way to cut a large amount of power on and off. You only run the amount of power used to power the coil through the timer, versus pullng the amps that run the lights through a dinky timer. THis is the smart and safe way to do it.

If you are using a relay, the relay will flip the power from one mogol to another.

You should still incorporate a large contactor that is the same size as the total amperage of your board to cut power incase your temps get too high, ie. AC failure or vent fan failure or fire! even get a smokey wired in.

It sounds like you are in over your head!! Power can kill you and cause fires with sloppy work. I would just get a board built. I have a great understanding of power, and I can even wire one myself, but I had an electrician build one for me, for peace of mind. Some things I leave to the pros!

If you are going to attempt this, dont wire or power anything up until you are 100% sure.
 
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