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Plant dieing need help asap

Del_9_THC

Member
I,wonder if was due to the stress of transplanting from 1 to 3 gallon pails?

Also, was new soil too heavily amended....that is, too much P, K, N, etc?

Maybe keep,them indoors for a few days after transplant?
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Also, was new soil too heavily amended....that is, too much P, K, N, etc?
When you transplant, it should look like this:

light soil
fertilized soil
drainage layer (perlite or grow rocks)

You should also have an inch of light soil on top of the hot soil, and put the rootball on top of that. And fill in the sides with light soil.

That way, the roots can't burn.
 

caliprop215

Member
Veteran
I,wonder if was due to the stress of transplanting from 1 to 3 gallon pails?

Also, was new soil too heavily amended....that is, too much P, K, N, etc?

Maybe keep,them indoors for a few days after transplant?

The plant was good for like 2 weeks after transplant.

Then just started to wilt and die. Had same nutes as rest of the plants so not overnuted

The plant died there was no saving it
 

caliprop215

Member
Veteran
When you transplant, it should look like this:

light soil
fertilized soil
drainage layer (perlite or grow rocks)

You should also have an inch of light soil on top of the hot soil, and put the rootball on top of that. And fill in the sides with light soil.

That way, the roots can't burn.
I just dug a hole and planted it. It caught roots started growing good. Then death.

No idea now...

The plant died
 

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Happy hippy mix about 65 percent. 25 pecernt compost.10 percent natuve soil. Yes good drainage
When plants die/wilt that quickly, there is usually something going on with the roots. Most likelly not enough aeration, especially at the top of the soil (no mulch).

Maybe when the soil dried out, the nutrients became too concentrated, burnt the roots and created the environment for botrytis to take over.

I think the mix may be too hot, maybe not composted enough (continues to use oxygen, creating an anaerobic environment), and not enough drainage. Or airation (perlite). Also, with that much organic matter, you can't go wrong adding more magnesium lime, both to keep the pH high and provide calcium.

THE LONGER ANSWER

Just to show you where I'm at, when it comes to growing weed right now.

It doesn't take much to grow weed.

Think of the way a soil profile is structured.

organic sphere
topsoil
subsoil
water table
hardpan

There are usually more nutients in the topsoil than the subsoil. Water is always available until it dries up completely.

Major decomposition of nutrients (other than roots) happens mainly at the topsoil. There are nutrients in the subsoil, mainly P and K, however little nitrogen, which evaporates (N03) or gets flushed into the water table.

In nature, plants are fed by and feed soil fungi - calories (seeds, fruits, nuts, roots) and carbon (leaves, roots) from the plant to the fungi, and the fungi feeds the plant including P and K from the subsoil and a host of other nutrients present in that soil. The fungi also act like a giant filter, creating a barrier between the roots and the soil. Some fungi grow throughout the plant (endophytic fungi or endophytes) and act as anti-feedants against insects, and produce antibiotics like penicillin which protect against other fungi and bacteria.

The way to replicate that is to

1. Create a friendly environment for the roots.

The roots need soil they can easily penetrate, both airy and light. You should use at least 30% perlite or a similar aerator like rice hulls.

Anything with high P will grow roots faster than any root stimulator can. Most bloom foods will work. Beyond that:

2. Feed the fungi, not the plant.

Adding nutrients on top of the topsoil and covering them with mulch, allows the fungi to distribute the nutrients throughout their web, and means the roots don't have to come into contact with it.

I like to add a banana put on it's side and sliced length wise, with the soft side on the topsoil, then covered with mulch (hemp bedding, chopped straw). It really energises the soil fungi.

Try to find a way to bottom water, even outside. Plants go through a lot of effort not to have rain impact the soil beneath their driplines for a reason. It disturbs the soil fungi. Plants also feed soil fungi by dropping much more seeds and fruits within their dripline than could possibly germinate. That's how they feed the fungi fat, protein and carbohydrates, in addition to sugars from the roots. And then cover it all with carbon - leaves.

That's why forest soils are so fungally dominant, and why forests don't need bags of fertilizer or pesticides to grow.
 
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