What's new
  • Please note members who been with us for more than 10 years have been upgraded to "Veteran" status and will receive exclusive benefits. If you wish to find out more about this or support IcMag and get same benefits, check this thread here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Tales of the great battle of powdery mildew

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
PM can be eliminated one way for sure, Do not plant or grow any variety that gets PM, that may not be something you are willing to do but it works.
As soon as you see any PM on any variety, quit using that variety.

Different varieties have major differences in susceptibility, WLD like Afghan are the worst, hybrids with WLD in them are also bad. A few years ago I had 1000 seedlings imported rom Afghanistan growing in my greenhouse, almost all got PM, while a few OHaze clones a NLD variety from near the Equator, that were also in the greenhouse and completely surrounded by the Afghans did not have or get PM, coming from a hot humid country they have a high resistance to Molds and PM unlike the Afghan WLD varieties with almost no resistance.
People that have PM problems need to only grow varieties that do not get PM, and the problem will be gone.
And not using PM prone varieties will encourage breeders to not use PM susceptible varieties in the first place to breed with.

Someone needs to start a list of PM susceptible Varieties and Landraces and Hybrids along with a list of PM resistant Varieties be they Landraces or Hybrids. There are enough growers on IC that if all their experiences were in a Cannabis PM susceptible list it would really help the newer growers without the experience to avoid WLD varieties that almost always have PM susceptibility where it is a problem. Breeders are to blame for using and making varieties that do have PM problems, I destroyed any I found, and I found a lot growing mostly imported seeds over the years looking for keepers.
-SamS


interesting read... and it makes sense - years ago growing outside everything was hit with it - i had rez's SDiesel, and a couple of others from his stable, mr nice ssh, and mango and one of sam's haze freebie seed from seedbay... everything was hit... except sam's weed... ofcourse in my climate sam's did'nt have a chance to finish, but no PM...
 

CosmicGiggle

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
..... am currently growing the Haze #5 indoors and find it is a PM magnet in my already infected environment.:frown:
 

Sam_Skunkman

"RESIN BREEDER"
Moderator
Veteran
..... am currently growing the Haze #5 indoors and find it is a PM magnet in my already infected environment.:frown:

Where did you get the Haze #5? I sold hybrids of it but I did not select the Haze #5 it was selected by TFD and I used it one year to make a few seeds on one plant, if it is from me? Not that it matters to you I suspect. I did have folks that liked it, but I honestly only grew it once.
-SamS
 

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
3-4 week away from harvest- most of the plants have been hit with PM... sprayed em again today with greencure- hopefully i'll be ok till harvest - will of course dunk em in hydro prox and lemon juice/etc after cutting em down... never ever had pm... i'm sure i brought it in from the clones i took off the outdoor plants last fall... after i take this harvest down, i have to nuke the entire area...
 

Lyfespan

Active member
3-4 week away from harvest- most of the plants have been hit with PM... sprayed em again today with greencure- hopefully i'll be ok till harvest - will of course dunk em in hydro prox and lemon juice/etc after cutting em down... never ever had pm... i'm sure i brought it in from the clones i took off the outdoor plants last fall... after i take this harvest down, i have to nuke the entire area...

pm is the equivalent of staph for plants. Its always on the plants and in environment, it takes some variable to activate it:tiphat:
 

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
pm is the equivalent of staph for plants. Its always on the plants and in environment, it takes some variable to activate it:tiphat:

yep, but not sure what it is... temps during the day in mid/high 70's, at nite low 60's- humidity varies from 20-25% , up to 45% when its raining out - there is a fan blowing air in from the outside, and on the other end there is a fan blowing into the tent, and a small fan clipped on the tent pole blowing air around the inside of the tent...
 

chilliwilli

Waterboy
Hi folks nice thread call it the frontline.

Anyone experience with garlic as a companion plant? A lot of gardening forums mention that garlic could act prophylactic against pm
A friend lost 2 grows to pm last year and is trying right now. Will keep u updated.
 

Sam_Skunkman

"RESIN BREEDER"
Moderator
Veteran
.
interesting read... and it makes sense - years ago growing outside everything was hit with it - i had rez's SDiesel, and a couple of others from his stable, mr nice ssh, and mango and one of sam's haze freebie seed from seedbay... everything was hit... except sam's weed... ofcourse in my climate sam's did'nt have a chance to finish, but no PM...
 

PaulieWaulie

Member
Veteran
Sorry I disappeared for a year or so here, and without getting back into the discussion I did want to give a conclusion to the tale, so that anyone reading this at a later time has some closure. I know I have followed many threads on PM, only for there to be no ending with the poster not returning after figuring it out.

So basically I shut down the bloom room completely. I trimmed back all my moms and applied eagle20 a few times. Then took got to cloning and started up another cycle. I think maybe 2-3 months went by before starting up the bloom room. I did not have PM return, and made sure to keep humidity in check.

So here is my theory. PM spores are always in the air, when you have an ongoing breakout there are many more spores in the billions. It is impossible for the plants to defend against so many attacks. Shutting down, killing off, and starting over gave me a fresh start and a fighting chance.

Trying to change the environment in bloom during breakout did not stop pm for me. Starting a fresh run did work, and I was able to keep all my moms.

Side not, there have been a few moments since, when I had cuttings in a humidity dome, or when my VEG tent went to 70-80 RH for a day that I saw PM on a couple leaves. That was really scary, but it didn't turn into a breakout thank god, I probably would have given up and quit growing in my current house. So this is how the tale ends folks.
 

are you awake

New member
Hello all, just wanted to chime in with this paper: https://www.researchgate.net/public...oach_to_management_of_powdery_mildew_diseases

basically says the researchers had success using tea tree oil and also using rosemary oil.

since i already use peppermint oil to deter aphids (only thing that's worked for me), i decided to look up if any of the other essential oils i had around the house were useful. week 3 of using a combo of tea tree oil + rosemary oil + a tiny bit of dish soap and the PM has gone away with no ill effects to the plants. I left a few plants untreated as a control group and there's a huge difference. ill post an update if anything changes.
 

xet

Active member
Application of Compost for Controlling Powdery Mildew of Pepper and its Effect on Productivity
Authors
Farag F. Mohamed email orcid 1; Mohamed B. Taha2; Said M. Kamel orcid 1; Ahmed G. Mohamed3
1Plant Pathology Research Institute, Agricultural Research Center, 12619, Giza, Egypt.
2Soils, Water and Environment Research Institute, Agricultural Research Center, Giza, Egypt.
3Horticulture Research Institute, Agricultural Research Center, Giza, Egypt
Abstract
Efficiency of compost (corn stover amended with sheep manure) supplemented with sulphur, phosphate rock, gypsum and some bioagents (Bacillus subtilis, Trichoderma harzianum and arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi) was evaluated for suppressing powdery mildew of pepper under field conditions. Experiments were carried out under natural infection in the Experimental Farm of Sids Horticultural Research Station, Agric. Res. Center, Beni-Sweif governorate. Two different methods of application were used; soil amendment and or foliar spraying to reduce pepper powdery mildew and improving its productivity, as well as enhance soil fertility. All tested compost treatments reduced the number of infected leaves and powdery mildew severity as well as increased the yield compared to control treatment. On the other hand, spraying and amendment pepper plants during the growing season with compost combined with Trichoderma harzianum resulted in a significant decrease in disease severity of the disease with significant increment in pepper yield compared with the control treatment. In addition, combination the compost with Bacillus subtilis gave the best results in controlling powdery mildew of pepper.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Powdery Mildew spores are everywhere and it's everywhere for a good reason. Powdery mildew is Mother Nature's way of getting rid of weaker species that are not suited for that growing area. In nature, the unsuited plants get infected, die, and disappear and then those grow areas always come back with a more well-suited species that will thrive in the same area.
Anytime something in the wild dies due to disease it's because the conditions are not suitable for that plant's growth. The same goes for growing our own gardens, I have to match the right plant with the right growing environment. Putting copper sprays or spraying milk on a plant doesn't change the fact that the species is not suited for the growing area. Healthy plants that are not overfed will repeal mold like it's nothing. When I overfeed some plants just a little I would get mold easy. My opinion is spraying anything on plants is going against Mother Nature.
😎
 

chilliwilli

Waterboy
Hi folks
I personally had never pm indoors but a good buddy of mine has struggeld with it. He tried my sulfur burner and already got one on his own. He wanted to cut down his grow after first weeks of 12/12 since the pm started and he knew the outcome too well. 2x ~1h sulfur burning a week apart stopped the outbreak and he bought his own burner. I think he used it 5-6 times for 1-2h 10d apart and no more pm. He left some spots on few leafes against my advice "to see how it develops" but even that spots didn't grow bigger.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Using sulfur can be tricky during flowering. Sulfur burners in greenhouses are much different than using them indoors., Greenhouses have ventilation systems that can extract the air in just a matter of minutes. In a house, using burners can leave a by-product in the air without proper air purification. IF you can smell sulfur then you are breathing the byproduct. I do not recommend anyone breathe sulfur fumes or any other chemical on a daily bases.. 😎

Sulfur combined with high humidity produces sulfuric acid, which can burn your plants if they have water droplets on them or a large amount of humid material, like buds which retain a lot of humidity. Google

Sulfur is burned or vaporized to control fungus, mites, or insects
. When sulfur is burned, it turns into a gas called sulfur dioxide. The gas can mix with moisture on plants to form an acid that can damage plant leaves. Breathing the gas can be harmful to human health. Google
 

chilliwilli

Waterboy
Using sulfur can be tricky during flowering. Sulfur burners in greenhouses are much different than using them indoors., Greenhouses have ventilation systems that can extract the air in just a matter of minutes. In a house, using burners can leave a by-product in the air without proper air purification. IF you can smell sulfur then you are breathing the byproduct. I do not recommend anyone breathe sulfur fumes or any other chemical on a daily bases.. 😎

Sulfur combined with high humidity produces sulfuric acid, which can burn your plants if they have water droplets on them or a large amount of humid material, like buds which retain a lot of humidity. Google

Sulfur is burned or vaporized to control fungus, mites, or insects
. When sulfur is burned, it turns into a gas called sulfur dioxide. The gas can mix with moisture on plants to form an acid that can damage plant leaves. Breathing the gas can be harmful to human health. Google
Sorry didn't clear that out but the sulfure is only evaporated not burned.
Ventilation is off during usage. I let the fumes sit in the room after usage for some hours and than ventilate the room and leaf the place for 15min. After that u can't smell the sulfure. The big advantage of the sulfurburner is that the sulfur is only heated till it evaporates so no sulfuric acid will develop.
I'm not sure how much sulfure is in the final product but so far i coudn't notice it when i used sulfure against spider mites.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
The eye can't see molecules but the "nose can" and smelling sulfur is ingesting it. If it doesn't bother you then there's no problem. There are many seed strains available today that are mold resistant you can get from professional breeders that don't have problems with mold. They are easy to find and well worth the money. Here are some mold-resistant plants from a seed bank in Spain.😎
222_0430.JPG
222_0347.JPG
222_0243.JPG
222_0749.JPG
Sulfur is something I don't want to smell ever.
 
  • Like
Reactions: xet
Top