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Stealth cab closetmaid 2 door
- Thread starter jonhova
- Start date
Part 2
Part 2
Caulked the edges. Used trash bags; cardboard and gorilla tape to fix thr middle. The spot at the top middle is vety hard to light proof with the magnets in the way.
My fan was at the post office today. I didnt notice until it was closed sigh. Lighting and ventilation tomorrow.
Part 2
Caulked the edges. Used trash bags; cardboard and gorilla tape to fix thr middle. The spot at the top middle is vety hard to light proof with the magnets in the way.
My fan was at the post office today. I didnt notice until it was closed sigh. Lighting and ventilation tomorrow.
Thank you dtoker
Thank you dtoker
I looked at target, 2 walmarts, officedepot, 2 cvs, and home depot for the traditional pencil holder carbon scrubber!
Fuck that! The larger oencil holder is not available anymore at officedepot/officemax near me. Most storesare 10 miles away that carry it and its over priced with shipping to my home.
Its a good thing i like digging old posts on icmag cuz i found a better solition that looks fucking slick as shit.
Check this out from dtokers thread.
Hobby crochet plastic and hot glue is gonna get this bitch done with some pantyhose, cd holder, and weather stripping.
Thank you dtoker
Fuck that! The larger oencil holder is not available anymore at officedepot/officemax near me. Most storesare 10 miles away that carry it and its over priced with shipping to my home.
Its a good thing i like digging old posts on icmag cuz i found a better solition that looks fucking slick as shit.
Check this out from dtokers thread.
Hobby crochet plastic and hot glue is gonna get this bitch done with some pantyhose, cd holder, and weather stripping.
Carbon filter
Carbon filter
Glue gun and 6 sticks of glue
M2 x crotchet knitting mesh
Duct tape
Carbon
Stockings
White frabic polyfil stuff
Pretty much cooied dtokers design except made it longer. I bought fine particle carbon which worked its way through the mesh. This necessitated a layer on thd inner side of the larger mesh the polyfil white fabric to keep clthe carbon from going on thr outside of thr carbon filter. Attached it to a tupper ware w duct tale aftet sealing the carbon in with a fat weather stripping piece.
This will sit carbon facing up on the tupper ware on the top of the cab. Ill drill out a 2 1/2” hole with a hole saw and mount the fan.
Carbon filter
Glue gun and 6 sticks of glue
M2 x crotchet knitting mesh
Duct tape
Carbon
Stockings
White frabic polyfil stuff
Pretty much cooied dtokers design except made it longer. I bought fine particle carbon which worked its way through the mesh. This necessitated a layer on thd inner side of the larger mesh the polyfil white fabric to keep clthe carbon from going on thr outside of thr carbon filter. Attached it to a tupper ware w duct tale aftet sealing the carbon in with a fat weather stripping piece.
This will sit carbon facing up on the tupper ware on the top of the cab. Ill drill out a 2 1/2” hole with a hole saw and mount the fan.
Hi!
This is the explanation pic regarding how to apply panda film or mylar:
does it display fine? In this case (two doors) the sequence will be
left door - left wall - bottom - right wall - right door.
Weather striping on both doors, so that center (where both meet) is lightproof. I stapled everything just like you.
This is the explanation pic regarding how to apply panda film or mylar:
does it display fine? In this case (two doors) the sequence will be
left door - left wall - bottom - right wall - right door.
Weather striping on both doors, so that center (where both meet) is lightproof. I stapled everything just like you.
Attachments
So how do you like the fan, have you tried it yet? silent enough?
Needs more bike inner tube light proofing
Needs more bike inner tube light proofing
This carbon filter will be covered eventually by some kind of inconspicuous box or enclosure.
The fan is quiet as shit Athos. Thank you for your recommendation.
I can feel air passing through the filter gently.
The light leaks are pissing me off. Bike inner tube seems to work the best of anything I've tried. Ill get a big strip of that staple it to the top wood panel and be done with it.
Needs more bike inner tube light proofing
This carbon filter will be covered eventually by some kind of inconspicuous box or enclosure.
The fan is quiet as shit Athos. Thank you for your recommendation.
I can feel air passing through the filter gently.
The light leaks are pissing me off. Bike inner tube seems to work the best of anything I've tried. Ill get a big strip of that staple it to the top wood panel and be done with it.
MyNameIsMike
New member
Have you considered constructing a frame that would outline the front of your cab using a 1x2?
A 1x2 plank of wood is a few bucks which comes in I think 8ft? Running a peice along the top-front-inside of your cab, attached to the roof with either a few screws or glue. Your doors would close onto it creating a seal where light cannot leak through.
You can also use the same concept and measure out a 1x2 and attach it to the inside of one of your doors with glue. So when door#1is closed, door#2 will close and meet that middle divider and seal. Just like your cardboard thing you have going on but probably more durable. This would be a cleaner setup. If this makes sense, something to consider. If it doesn't, let me know and I'll try and illustrate it to give you a visual.
MyNameIsMike
New member
Ugh, can't edit. Basically make a 1x2" lip. That may make more sense.
MyNameIsMike
New member
Cool. I encountered a similar challenge and after several... several trips back n forth to Lowe's buying weather stripping, foam tubes, adhesive this adhesive that, I found a simple lip worked perfect. I'm subbed to see your progress. Sweet setup.
Drop That Sound
Well-known member
Even some cheap PVC inside corner mouldings would work for the lip. They are like $3-$4.00 for an 8'.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Royal-M...e-Inside-Corner-Moulding-0509308033/100058333
It cuts like butter with a sharp razor knife.
Make a simple frame with 45's on each end of the 4 pieces you cut. If your 45's aren't perfect don't worry, you'll seal it all up with a small bead of caulk anyway.
You could pin them in, but I would just drill a small pilot hole and use finish screws. Laminate particle board chips easy if ya hadn't noticed..
Then, you have a small lip to put a secondary seal on. If that doesn't work, like I said, just toss in a full sized panel up against the new lip. It could even be cardboard!
Round 2! Good luck
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Royal-M...e-Inside-Corner-Moulding-0509308033/100058333
It cuts like butter with a sharp razor knife.
Make a simple frame with 45's on each end of the 4 pieces you cut. If your 45's aren't perfect don't worry, you'll seal it all up with a small bead of caulk anyway.
You could pin them in, but I would just drill a small pilot hole and use finish screws. Laminate particle board chips easy if ya hadn't noticed..
Then, you have a small lip to put a secondary seal on. If that doesn't work, like I said, just toss in a full sized panel up against the new lip. It could even be cardboard!
Round 2! Good luck
Drop That Sound
Well-known member
P.S. The panel idea is honestly the only way I really see it working.. without 6 trips back and forth to lowes lol.
The reason is because the way your doors are hinged, with 2 rods on each side, top and bottom. They aren't on the end of the door but probably an inch towards the center?
This causes the very left and right sides of both the doors to swing inside the cabinet more than the rest of the door.
If you make a lip, just be sure to leave a little bit of clearance for doors as they open, put it back a good 1/2 inch. Draw your lines for the frame on the cabinet first, to use as a guide for the frame to line up.
EDIT: Ok ok, i'm back again, so the inner tube really is a kick ass idea for sealing wonky door hinges like that.. too bad you dont' have a single door to deal with.
But anyway.. it would be kinda cool if you had more inner tube flaps, with little neodymium magnets glued on, that snap the flaps back to the doors (screws in the door for the magnets to lock on) when you shut em. Just another idea,
The reason is because the way your doors are hinged, with 2 rods on each side, top and bottom. They aren't on the end of the door but probably an inch towards the center?
This causes the very left and right sides of both the doors to swing inside the cabinet more than the rest of the door.
If you make a lip, just be sure to leave a little bit of clearance for doors as they open, put it back a good 1/2 inch. Draw your lines for the frame on the cabinet first, to use as a guide for the frame to line up.
EDIT: Ok ok, i'm back again, so the inner tube really is a kick ass idea for sealing wonky door hinges like that.. too bad you dont' have a single door to deal with.
But anyway.. it would be kinda cool if you had more inner tube flaps, with little neodymium magnets glued on, that snap the flaps back to the doors (screws in the door for the magnets to lock on) when you shut em. Just another idea,
Last edited:
HuffnPufferfish
Member
yeah u overthinking it, build a frame with weatherstriping and jobs done
Huffnpuff, athos, anyone! Lol
My ambient temp is 75 F and my cab is at 85 F with 8x9 watt bulbs 72 watts total.
I think that’s getting damn close to too hot. Would you go with 6 bulbs or buy a larger 120 mm higher static pressure fan? I do not have room for an inline
Or both?
I put northern lights by nirvana fem in sone coco 2 days ago we will see whats up.
The problem is not your current CFM, but your ambient temperatures that are too high. On the other hand 85°F (29°C) is not that high, I get those temperatures 1 month a year (January actually), the only thing that will happen is that your plants will drink more water.
If you try to get your temperatures at, lets say 76°F, your CFM needed will sky rocket to over 200, which might give you other problems like wind burn.
That ambient temperature is your usual ambient temperature or just this time of the year?
Before changing anything I would try moving your grow box to other cooler parts of the house like: the basement, a bathroom, any room that doesn't receive direct sunlight.
The other more expensive way is to cool you ambient temperatures.
If you try to get your temperatures at, lets say 76°F, your CFM needed will sky rocket to over 200, which might give you other problems like wind burn.
That ambient temperature is your usual ambient temperature or just this time of the year?
Before changing anything I would try moving your grow box to other cooler parts of the house like: the basement, a bathroom, any room that doesn't receive direct sunlight.
The other more expensive way is to cool you ambient temperatures.
This is winter time lol. I had an older cab and that cab got to 95-100 in summer.
Is itpossible to have the cab maybe 5 degrees F max over ambient?
My house is one story and it needs to be cooled where it is. Im thinking about getting the fan you recommended before. The nf-f12 pwm 55 cfm 22.4 DB FAN.
In summer i can run the ac during the day. Doing so now is a waste.
Is itpossible to have the cab maybe 5 degrees F max over ambient?
My house is one story and it needs to be cooled where it is. Im thinking about getting the fan you recommended before. The nf-f12 pwm 55 cfm 22.4 DB FAN.
In summer i can run the ac during the day. Doing so now is a waste.
