10 min $10 DIY aerated compost tea ACT brewer

Bullfrog44 · Jul 20, 2011

I saw Vital Earths version of a diffuser that looked really easy to clean. It was just a PVC pipe with holes drilled. The air was forced up this pipe and created small and large bubbles. Seemed easy to clean, I might give it a go one of these days. If I do I will post pics.

My 15 gal cone bottom tank came in the mail yesterday. I cut up my old stand and made a new one, and then made up my PVC. Dam this 15 gal works way better than the 5 gal, much more suction on my vortex. I hope to get some pics up today, not sure if I am going to make my brew today or not. I want to take pics of it doing it thing, so I hope to post those in the following couple days.

Tuinman - Did you get a vortex out of that brewer? If not I found a secret that helps. I will explain when my pics go up.

heady blunts · Jul 20, 2011

can't wait to see some pictures BF44, sounds pretty sweet

i just made another ~4 gal brew with my airlift and i measured the flow this time by filling up an 18 oz beer cup a few times.

it took 4 seconds to fill 18 oz, so if there's 128 oz in a gallon, then 7.1 beer cups equals a gallon.

that means i'm doing 2 gal a minute! not too bad...

tuinman · Jul 20, 2011

Bullfrog44 said:
Tuinman - Did you get a vortex out of that brewer? If not I found a secret that helps. I will explain when my pics go up.

Can't say that I noticed a vortex at any point, I'd definitely be interested in seeing your secret. =)

Bullfrog44 · Jul 20, 2011

Just found out the wife has the camera and wont be back till fairly late tonight. The pics might not happen today, but tomorrow for sure. Any body know what Microbemans recipe would be for 15 gal? I use the 4 gal recipe now.

Microbeman · Jul 21, 2011

Bullfrog44 said:
Just found out the wife has the camera and wont be back till fairly late tonight. The pics might not happen today, but tomorrow for sure. Any body know what Microbemans recipe would be for 15 gal? I use the 4 gal recipe now.

Just go with the percentages in my recipe section. http://www.microbeorganics.com/#Compost_Tea_Recipes
Go easy on kelpmeal. Never use more than 0.25% and probably less. I use very basic kelpmeal and a lot out there is concentrated. Kelpmeal can delay bacterial division/activity. Really you only need use it if you have a specific reason for it.

I brewed a fabulous tea a while ago using only vermicompost and molasses. I'd post video if it was allowed here. Maybe I'll break down and do the youtube thing.

Bullfrog44 · Jul 21, 2011

I thought the ratio's changed with the amount of water. But if I can just sub 15gal for 50 and divide by the proper ratio then I think I have my mix.

EWC - 1.35l or 5.7cups Roots organics big worm, maybe cut in half with Vital Earth organic compost, not EWC
Molasses @ .50% - .283875l or 19.2 tbs Mothers
Fish Hydrolysate .03576825l or 35.77 ml Vital Earth
Kelp Meal @ 25%- .1419375l or 141.93 ml Dr Earth dry mix (will reduce this to 120ml, unless you advise to skip.) Edit: Changed to 6tbs instead, it just didn't feel right.
Soft Rock Phosphate - .03576825l or 35.7 ml

I noticed on your page you have "extras". Are these needed? And are the purpose of these extras to give you plants food as well? Also, my brewer is a 15 gal vortex brewer with an Ecco commercial 5 air pump. I imagine I have great flow, should I up my molasses to .75%? Thanks for all your help Microbeman, you are the shizz nizz. O yea, and it is hot this week. About 80 in the garage during the day. Still a 18 hour brew?

BTW - Please break down and do the whole you tube thing. I would love to see some of your tea's in action. Thanks for everything

Microbeman · Jul 21, 2011

Bullfrog44 said:
I thought the ratio's changed with the amount of water. But if I can just sub 15gal for 50 and divide by the proper ratio then I think I have my mix.

EWC - 1.35l or 5.7cups Roots organics big worm, maybe cut in half with Vital Earth organic compost, not EWC
Molasses @ .50% - .283875l or 19.2 tbs Mothers
Fish Hydrolysate .03576825l or 35.77 ml Vital Earth
Kelp Meal @ 25%- .1419375l or 141.93 ml Dr Earth dry mix (will reduce this to 120ml, unless you advise to skip.) Edit: Changed to 6tbs instead, it just didn't feel right.
Soft Rock Phosphate - .03576825l or 35.7 ml

I noticed on your page you have "extras". Are these needed? And are the purpose of these extras to give you plants food as well? Also, my brewer is a 15 gal vortex brewer with an Ecco commercial 5 air pump. I imagine I have great flow, should I up my molasses to .75%? Thanks for all your help Microbeman, you are the shizz nizz. O yea, and it is hot this week. About 80 in the garage during the day. Still a 18 hour brew?

BTW - Please break down and do the whole you tube thing. I would love to see some of your tea's in action. Thanks for everything

15 gal US = 56.78 liters rounded = 57 liters

(Vermi)Compost - 2.38%(MAX) x 57 = 1356 ml or 1.3 liters

Molasses - 0.50% x 57 = 285 ml

Fish hydrolysate (if desired) - 0.063% x 57 = 36 ml (rounded)

Kelp meal [plain ordinary livestock grade] (if desired)
- 0.25% (MAX) x 57 = 142 ml (rounded) I have no experience with Dr. Earth brand. I encourage using minimal amounts of kelp or none at all untill you get more familiar with brewing CT or have a scope.

Soft Rock Phosphate [I usually fine grind in a coffe bean grinder or blender] - 0.063% x 57 = 36 ml (rounded)

Regarding your questions on time and extras, I thought it better to just copy and post what it states on my webpage, as follows;

"Length of Brew;
This will provide a CT with a microbial content of, bacteria/archaea and fungal hyphae (if present in compost) when brewed for 18 to 24 hours. When using our fungal inhabited vermicompost, the optimum time seems to be 18 hours for a bacteria/archaea and fungal brew. If brewed for 30 to 36 hours (and up to 42 to 48 hours if you have a microscope) there will be flagellates and amoebae (& some ciliates) as well, providing a functioning microbial consortia which is better for nutrient cycling in the soil/root interface. Because of the variations in brewing compost tea, it is better to examine the microbial content with a microscope and decide at what period of the brew you should apply it but if you do not have a microscope then use the CT between the time periods mentioned above for the desired effects.

Extras (when using extras you may wish to adjust amounts of other ingredients to avoid overload)

*pyrophyllite clay powder – 0.063% - (120 ml), (4 ounces), (0.5 cup)
This is a good ingredient to stimulate more bacteria/archaea diversity which seems to experimentally contribute to disease control. It can be found here at a reasonable price. http://www.continentalclay.com/detail.php?PID=695&cat_id=197&sub_categoryID=4

*alfalfa meal – up to 0.25% (.5 liter or 500 ml), (17 ounces US), (0.5 quart US), (2 plus cups)
This promotes the growth of flagellates and amoebae and is also a fungal food. Just get the cheap stuff by the bag at the feed store, checking that it does not contain anti-microbials

*Canadian sphagnum peat moss Premier Brand – throw in a handful or two to promote flagellates and amoebae and/or fungal hyphae. Batches are inconsistent, so unless you have a microscope you won’t be sure which set of microbes it will promote but I have never seen anything bad."

Judging by the method you have used for your design and the size of pump, I would estimate your brew should be complete within 24 hours. This also depends on the quality of your (vermi)compost.

As I mentioned recently, we threw together a little 5 gallon airlift brewer for a community garden using a 2 CFM pump and I was surprised to see a completed (bacteria, flagellates, fungi) brew in 11 hours. I used fresh vermicompost and molasses.

Regarding ratios changing, when you get into 500 gallons to 4000 gallons the ratios may need adjustment, usually down.

Microbeman · Jul 21, 2011

BTW you can see my teas 'in action' on my webpage.

Bullfrog44 · Jul 21, 2011

Thanks again Microbeman, I believe our measurements match up. I will try to get some pics up of this lovely brew. I don't know why people think these brews smell. I came home and I could smell the sweet smell of molasses. Everything about tea brewing strokes me the right way. I will also try to get some pics up of my plants a day or two after getting their tea. See how happy they are.

Bullfrog44 · Jul 21, 2011

So here is my 15 gal brewer. I am still brewing atm, but so far it has been about 22 hours and my unglued fittings and brewer hasn't leaked or splash at all. This cone bottom tank really is awesome. Everything is better with this tank, higher suction with the vortex, gallon markers on the side, curved top edge so way less splash, threaded fitting from the bottom, ext ext. I highly recommend this product, even though it was pricey after shipping. (130$ if I remember correctly) Not a bad price considering a vortex brewer will cost you upwards of $1500.

Some changes I made from my 5 gal brewer are:

- Changed to a 3/4 ball valve so larger particles can pass with ease.
- Made the air line the lowest part of the PVC line so EWC have no where to settle. (must keep pump on or else EWC could block air enough to resist initial penetration)
- Added the 45 degree pipe that brings my supply pvc pipe farther inside my 15 gal container. Then I add the 90 degree fitting to aid in the vortex. The position of this is key, get as close to the edge as you can and turn the 90 counter clock wise in the northern hemisphere. I get a vortex without stirring or anything like that.

Notice in this picture how the last 45 sends the pipe in the container, then the 90 sends the water in the direction of the vortex

Hope this helps somebody else, as this thread has taught me the way. Thank you everybody, and now off to water my ladies with some tea!

Microbeman · Jul 22, 2011

Nice work BF, The only thing I wonder is if there is any difference if the air input is at right angles, rather than under the Tee (riser pipe). Do you follow me? That is how I set them up. In your photo the Tee would be reversed so the air input came in from the right. I'm unsure whether this is more efficient use of air 'pressure' but that is what I found. I also found varying flows by varying the distance of the air input from the center of the riser pipe.

bonsai · Jul 22, 2011

Looking good BF44!
I got mine built in about 30 minutes tonight, same design as yours but with a 6 gallon bucket and a bulkhead at the bottom instead of a cone-shape. 1" pipe throughout, no diffuser, 1.75CFM pump. Vortex action straight away, works great! Will build a frame for it tomorrow and make a batch of tea.

Bullfrog44 · Jul 22, 2011

Interesting Microbeman, maybe I will try this with my next run. Just involves cutting up some more pvc that I have laying around. Thanks for the tip.

bonsai - that sounds awesome, you should post a pic if possible.

bonsai · Jul 23, 2011

15 minute job with a couple spare fence palings and an old shipping pallet. Good enough!

ijim · Jul 23, 2011

In a world as complicated as we have made it. Is is nice to know the simple things in life still rock.

Bullfrog44 · Jul 23, 2011

I don't think those pumps are suppose to be hung light that. At least that is what mine said. That is an amazing little 5 gal brewer that anybody could make cheap and quick. Awesome design.

bonsai · Jul 24, 2011

Thanks Bullfrog, I turned the pump the right way up but I'm pretty sure my pump is faulty

It's made a horrible clicky sound since I got it a couple days back, and overnight the frequency of the clicking increased and the power has dropped enough to no longer achieve the airlift. It's a Hailea A308 off ebay. Even if the seller provided any warranty the shipping back to china would be the same I paid for it. Pretty pissed off at this point, will definitely buy the next pump locally even though that will cost at least double.

Bullfrog44 · Jul 24, 2011

If you go to Microbemans website he has all the pumps listed that he recommends. I think for 5 gal set ups he recommends a commercial Ecco 1 at a minimum. I have the commercial Ecco 5 for my 15 gal and it works great. I have only done 4 brews so far, but it has not signs of dampering as of yet. Great design, maybe you could show people a picture of your bulkhead fitting, might help some people out. Thanks again for sharing.

BTW - my pump says to run horizontally.

bonsai · Jul 24, 2011

Yeah unfortunately it wasn't a case of an undersized pump; I'm using the equiv of an Eco 3 with a 6 gal brewer. It worked wonderfully at first, but now it seems like the pump is stuffed. Fail. I'll pull it apart, hopefully there's something I can do to get it pushing maximum air agian.

tuinman · Jul 24, 2011

bonsai said:
Yeah unfortunately it wasn't a case of an undersized pump; I'm using the equiv of an Eco 3 with a 6 gal brewer. It worked wonderfully at first, but now it seems like the pump is stuffed. Fail. I'll pull it apart, hopefully there's something I can do to get it pushing maximum air agian.

I had this issue with an Eco 1 pump, it turned out the diaphragm inside had ripped. Unfortunately I was unable to find a replacement and Eco never responded to my inquiries. For the Eco 1 I was able to use the inside liner of a water bottle as a replacement, not sure how large the Eco 3 is going to be.

The pump is pretty easy to take apart and put back together, though.

10 min $10 DIY aerated compost tea ACT brewer

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