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Design in progress

DocTim420

The Doctor is OUT and has moved on...
Hey doc thanks for the detailed help I will definitely be putting your rigid ducting input to use and will be running as much of the ducting I can above the room in between the ceiling joists I really like the idea of using cooler air to each intake of the air cooled hoods and I actually thought about doing so already but being how far north I am and In a basement our winters get very cold and also I would be to worried having the water and condensation running in my ducting from the only basement window I have and cause some serious problems so not ideal in my climate area, but I wI'll be running separate intakes to each and exhausting elsewhere in the home as extremely low cost heating method for the winter months... as far as the co2 goes I won't have to worry about that as of yet because I'm not running any to start and probably won't untill i go completely sealed and have a mini split installed

No problem man. The condensation issue can be reduced with insulated ducting--but what what I would do is add an dampner to bring mix warmer room air with the cooler outdoor air. Connected to a thermostat...would make it an automatic dampner.

BTW, the fans pulling the cool air through my light fixtures are located in my attic--no smell, no noise, & no heat to return back to my work area.

Good luck!
 

Greenthumber

Active member
No problem man. The condensation issue can be reduced with insulated ducting--but what what I would do is add an dampner to bring mix warmer room air with the cooler outdoor air. Connected to a thermostat...would make it an automatic dampner.

BTW, the fans pulling the cool air through my light fixtures are located in my attic--no smell, no noise, & no heat to return back to my work area.

Good luck!

I'm lost on what a dampener even is haha sorry. I'm thinking I might just exhaust through my cf through the lights through the ceiling and get a split and outtake through my dryer vent I'm not sure yet though but I have time to figure it out still
 

DocTim420

The Doctor is OUT and has moved on...
Sorry, the spelling is "damper", my bad.

A "normally closed" automatic dampers look like this--

413N9TE89TL._SX466_.jpg


The setup would be as follows--inside your home/building and along your fresh outdoor air main ducting you insert a "full flow wye duct" (which looks like this)--

6101d8mbSwL._SX425_.jpg


Looking at that pic, there are openings at the 12, 2 and 6 o'clock positions. Fresh air flows in at the 12 o'clock opening and flows out through the 6 o'clock opening and the automatic damper is connected to the 2 o'clock opening.

In this setup, while the damper is "normally closed" air flow will be 100% fresh outdoor air, but when the damper is open warmer air will be mixed with the cooler air.

Using a thermostat (measuring outside cooler air) to control the automatic damper is the glue that puts this all together. When the temperature is too cold, the damper opens up and warmer indoor air is mixed with the cooler outdoor air. When the temperature is not too cold, the automatic damper closes and air flow will be 100% fresh outdoor air.

Hope this helps and sorry for the mispelling.
 

Greenthumber

Active member
Sorry, the spelling is "damper", my bad.

A "normally closed" automatic dampers look like this--

View Image

The setup would be as follows--inside your home/building and along your fresh outdoor air main ducting you insert a "full flow wye duct" (which looks like this)--

View Image

Looking at that pic, there are openings at the 12, 2 and 6 o'clock positions. Fresh air flows in at the 12 o'clock opening and flows out through the 6 o'clock opening and the automatic damper is connected to the 2 o'clock opening.

In this setup, while the damper is "normally closed" air flow will be 100% fresh outdoor air, but when the damper is open warmer air will be mixed with the cooler air.

Using a thermostat (measuring outside cooler air) to control the automatic damper is the glue that puts this all together. When the temperature is too cold, the damper opens up and warmer indoor air is mixed with the cooler outdoor air. When the temperature is not too cold, the automatic damper closes and air flow will be 100% fresh outdoor air.

Hope this helps and sorry for the mispelling.

No need to apologize I'm no grammar nazi lol, ok that makes a lot more sense and definitely something I might look into when I get around to that part of the build and giving I'm able to tap into an outdoor source of air other than my exhaust as it's not my home, thanks man
 
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