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Advantages of a SEALED room...
- Thread starter moses wellfleet
- Start date
DunHav`nFun
Well-known member
Rule of thumb for lung room size has "always" been minimum same size as flower areas so as to maintain cubic ftg air exchange twice per minute ftw.......IOW....
10x10 bloom room/10x10 lung area......that way perfect environment can be generated in the lung areas , pumped into , and sucked out of bloom rooms while constantly being reconditioned and resent back in....
I closed off basements with 1 long wall across from front to back about 12' out and ran 2 smaller fliprooms behind , and had like 3-400 sq ft to root cuts and control like 8x8 outside dimension/6x6 inside dimension sq ftg x 2 on both rooms , so roughly 3 times the air and ambient CO2 needed to run without being sealed nor needing CO2 supplements....anyways....HTH...
Taught by folks long ago like Heath Robinson and worked over 20 yrs for this old fart fake piece of shit Lyryc , and I`m more than big enough ta as you say put a target on my back by not takin shit from punks , cuz there ain`t much about croppin indoors I don`t know from first hand personal experience , not conjecture and hearsay that this site has become rampant with....anyways...
Use it or not...but it`s time tested and guaranteed .....
Peace...DHF...
....
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DunHav`nFun
Well-known member
My fliprooms were exhausted out through Carbonaire scrubbers perfectly matched cfm-wise with my Vortex inline fans....
The lungrooms had passive intake from the crawlspace upper foundations , and were exhausted out into the full body of the basements sq ftg left over every 12 hrs to make sure each room that the lights were coming on in had more than enough replenished airflow supply....
I grew in the hell of the dirty south non med states , so all overkill on the smell scrubbage and air movement , plus auxiliary portable a/c`s in each flip for insurance in deep summer heat , and lastly each room had it`s own smaller dehuey set on humidistats to kick on if RH couldn`t be kept below 45-50% during lights off in late bloomage , but neither ever came on to speak of as long as I can remember...anyways...HTH...
Lyryc...I chimed in to state that lungrooms are all I used for the duration of my indoor croppin....Butthurt`s the furthest thing from my mind , and certainly not to put other folks down to as you say put myself up....
Not an ounce of bullshit in this old ass , only been there and done that , so don`t value yourself so much as to think I came here just to jab at you , cuz I assure you it was rather to give firsthand info on lungroom size.....you`re not that important lol....
Peace....DHF.....
....drudown420
Member
Hi im pretty new here been growing for 3 years and have been on other forums but heard this is one of the best places. I've been doing a lot of work with different room setups such as sealed, unsealed, vented, you name it. From what I've seen and read sealed seems to be the best for almost every situation.
So do you sealed room people run a scrubber inside your room in closed loop to keep the air fresh? To give a little info on my room its 17x6.5 ft (I know weird trailer shape room but that's what I had to work with on my property) 10k ac unit, 2 1000w cool tube hoods, 2 1200w leds, 1 700w led, and 1 Co2 tank. Also if I vent in fresh air to cool the hoods am I at a risk of depleting my Co2?? I can run my ac all the time to keep temps down but I've already found that's way too costly with the 2 HID lights and a completely sealed room.
All I know is I need to change something because my yields haven't been anywhere near where I wan't them to. I don't think .75g per watt and up with my setup is an unreasonable expectation.
Don't be too harsh. Thanks
So do you sealed room people run a scrubber inside your room in closed loop to keep the air fresh? To give a little info on my room its 17x6.5 ft (I know weird trailer shape room but that's what I had to work with on my property) 10k ac unit, 2 1000w cool tube hoods, 2 1200w leds, 1 700w led, and 1 Co2 tank. Also if I vent in fresh air to cool the hoods am I at a risk of depleting my Co2?? I can run my ac all the time to keep temps down but I've already found that's way too costly with the 2 HID lights and a completely sealed room.
All I know is I need to change something because my yields haven't been anywhere near where I wan't them to. I don't think .75g per watt and up with my setup is an unreasonable expectation.
Don't be too harsh. Thanks
Aint nobody gonna be hating brother we are all here to learn and share. Welcome to the thread and thanx for stopping by.
Yes it is a good idea to run a scrubber in the room, if odour is a concern for you, some strains stink worse than others.
Do you have your cool tubes connected to an external ventilation system, it should be set up like a regular vented room in reverse; instead of fresh air going to plants it is used to remove hot air from the lights. The ducting must be connected properly otherwise you run the risk of draining your co2 tank. If you have set up your air cooled hoods correctly you shouldn't rely on your a/c much depending on the temperature of your outside air that is being pulled through the hoods.
Earlier in the thread there is a discussion about air cooled hoods. Hope this has helped you?
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drudown420
Member
I have my ducts connected to pull cool air from outside and through the hoods and out the other side up top.
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As I said with this type of system, your a/c should not be working hard. You only need one tiny hole in that ducting and you will drain your co2 tank very quickly. What type of co2 monitor/controller are you using? What size is your co2 tank and how long does it generally last you?
MensaBarbie
Member
I have three sealed air rooms. Two if you count that i exhaust my veg. Veg has a 6" canfanand filter. Both flowers have 14" can fans and can 150 carbon filters mounted a few inches from the ceiling so as not to lose surface area on the scrubber. I run adjust a wings. I think it works better than ducting hoods since its just the bulb and a wing. Ducting is a nightmare. One room really slowly uses co2 and the room that uses it quickly has a door i use to access my veg so it gets sucked out. I dont care as i have extra backups when it runs out. I would rather haul $10 tanks of co2 than have excess heat and humidity in my veg.
Sealed air is the shyt. Cant see hear smell anything outside of the house. Cant say that if u come in the house you dont hear pumps and fans but you smell NOTHING.
I use panda paper and black stick on zippers to make tarp maze door seals.
Sealed air is the shyt. Cant see hear smell anything outside of the house. Cant say that if u come in the house you dont hear pumps and fans but you smell NOTHING.
I use panda paper and black stick on zippers to make tarp maze door seals.
drudown420
Member
It's 10 gal tank just using a regulator on a timer. It usually lasts me 2 wewks
It is difficult for me to calculate the size of your show because I don't know anything about LEDs.
But I can tell you that a monitor/controller is essential. It will quickly pay for itself in gas that you save. Anything less is very primitive, penny wise and pound foolish!
drudown420
Member
Like an environmental controller?? I was looking at like the Titan model. I have been growing with LED's now for a few years. They draw less power than HPS and seem to have comparable or better results with way less heat. Thanks for your help!!
No an environmental controller takes care of heat, humidity, fresh air. I am talking about a co2 monitor/controller. It will give you a constant readout of co2 levels in your rooms and then maintain the desired level, by releasing co2 in small increments as it is required. No sealed room should be without one!
drudown420
Member
So it's kinda like a regulator but more precise? Sorry about the newbee questions. I'm going to go look for one today then sine ilk already be at my local grow shop
It has a sensor in the room which is connected to the monitor/controller unit which is connected to a regulator with a built in solenoid.
There are quite a few different brands, I think Titan make one as well!
drudown420
Member
How long do you typically run your co2 during lights on? From my calculations my room requires 1k pppms but how long do you need to run it and how often? Thanks
Whats the RH% in this room?
The reason I ask is because it seems like your AC might be oversized for 2K air cooled, even with the LEDs, since they don't produce much heat at all.
You want the ac to run non stop to remove the moisture, otherwise you will be running a dehey anyway.
Theres an AC calculator in the growroom design sub-forum, but I don't think it has any calculations for LED heat...
Anyhow, when the ac turns on and off the RH will spike, you don't want that. Its completely inefficient to have the ac and dehuey cycling on and off. It takes mor epower to start the compressor than to keep it running and when its just starting it isn't very efficient and will allow the rh or heat to continue climbing.
Plus if your ac is oversized and you need a dehuey running with lights on the deheuy just has to work harder to deal with the heat from the dehuey
The reason I ask is because it seems like your AC might be oversized for 2K air cooled, even with the LEDs, since they don't produce much heat at all.
You want the ac to run non stop to remove the moisture, otherwise you will be running a dehey anyway.
Theres an AC calculator in the growroom design sub-forum, but I don't think it has any calculations for LED heat...
Anyhow, when the ac turns on and off the RH will spike, you don't want that. Its completely inefficient to have the ac and dehuey cycling on and off. It takes mor epower to start the compressor than to keep it running and when its just starting it isn't very efficient and will allow the rh or heat to continue climbing.
Plus if your ac is oversized and you need a dehuey running with lights on the deheuy just has to work harder to deal with the heat from the dehuey
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=95259
Heres the thread...
Forgot to mention, the info above is why splits with the inverters at the shit!
The inverter will start out at full power til the room is at the desired temp and then reduce power to maintain at that level without cycling on and off.
Providing that its properly sized to the heat load
Heres the thread...
Forgot to mention, the info above is why splits with the inverters at the shit!
The inverter will start out at full power til the room is at the desired temp and then reduce power to maintain at that level without cycling on and off.
Providing that its properly sized to the heat load
