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Biodynamic Gardening Thread

although we are certainly not total advocates of Biodynamic Agriculture . . . it is a topic we've studied to an extent because since organic gardening and biodynamic gardening are related in many ways . . . we felt that a thread would be appropiate for folks to learn what it's all about . . .

way back in school when being taught to write paragraphs and essays . . . many folks began an introduction to a topic that was somewhat obscure . . . it was quite common to begin an essay with a dictonary definition . . . with that in mind . . . it would seem that today that same might be accomplished using the ubiquitous "Wikipedia" as a starting point . . .

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biodynamic_agriculture is the starting point where we got the following "summary" of what's behind Biodynamic Agriculture . . .


Biodynamic agriculture
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Biodynamic agriculture, or biodynamics is an organic farming system (but predates the term). It is based on the anthroposophical teachings of Rudolf Steiner, particularly on the eight lectures given by him in 1924 at Schloss Koberwitz in what was then Silesia, Germany nowadays Poland (close to Wroclaw). At the time Steiner believed that the introduction of chemical farming was a major problem. Steiner was convinced that the quality of food in his time was degraded, and he believed the source of the problem were artificial fertilizers and pesticides. However, he did not believe this was only because of the chemical or biological properties relating to the substances involved, but also due to spiritual shortcomings in the whole chemical approach to farming. Steiner considered the world and everything in it as simultaneously spiritual and material in nature, an approach termed monism. He also believed that living matter was different from dead matter, a viewpoint commonly referred to as vitalism.

The term biodynamic was coined by Steiner's adherents. A central aspect of biodynamics is that the farm as a whole is seen as an organism, and therefore should be a closed self-nourishing system.


History
Agricultural work arising out of the beliefs of Rudolf Steiner is based at the Goetheanum in Dornach, Switzerland. Not long after Steiner's lectures on agriculture in the 1920's an agricultural research group was formed to test and verify the claims of Steiner and others regarding the nature of life and health of soil, plants and animals. The Demeter International association for the certification of farms and processors that follow the biodynamic method was initiated in 1928. The U.S. Demeter Association was formed in the 1980's and certified its first farm in 1982.

In the U.S., the Biodynamic Farming & Gardening Association, Inc. was founded in 1938 as a New York state corporation.

In Australia the first B-D preparations were made by Ernesto Genoni in Melbourne in 1927 and by Bob Williams in Sydney in 1939. Since the 1950s research work has continued at the Biodynamic Research Institute (BDRI) in Powelltown, near Melbourne Australia under the direction of Alex Podolinsky.

Today biodynamics is practiced in more than 50 countries worldwide.

Organic fertilizers
Steiner prescribed eight different preparations for fertilizers which were allowed for use in biodynamic agriculture, and gave great details of how these were to be prepared. Inorganic or mineral fertilizers are not allowed, with the exception of quartz in substance 501 (see below). The substances are numbered 500 through 507, where the first two are used for preparing fields whereas the latter six are used for making compost.


Field preparations
Field preparations, for stimulating humus formation:

500: (horn-manure) a humus mixture prepared by filling the horn of a cow with cow manure and burying it in the ground (40-60 cm below the surface) in the autumn. It is left to decompose during the winter and recovered for use the following autumn.

501: Crushed powdered quartz prepared by stuffing it into a horn of a cow and buried into the ground in spring and taken out in autumn. It can be mixed with 500 but usually prepared on its own (mixture of 1 tablespoon of quartz powder to 250 litres of water) The mixture is sprayed under very low pressure over the crop during the wet season to prevent fungal diseases. It should be sprayed on an overcast day or early in the morning to prevent burning of the leaves.

Both 500 and 501 are used on fields by stirring the contents of a horn in 40-60 litres of water for an hour and whirling it in different directions every second minute. About 4 horns are used for each hectare of soil.


Compost preparations
Compost preparations, used for preparing compost, employ herbs which are frequently used in medicinal remedies:

502: Yarrow blossoms (Achillea millefolium) are stuffed into urinary bladders from Red Deer (Cervus elaphus), placed in the sun during summer, buried in earth during winter and retrieved in the spring.

503: Chamomile blossoms (Matricaria recutita) are stuffed into small intestines from cattle buried in humus-rich earth in the autumn and retrieved in the spring.

504: Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) plants in full bloom are stuffed together underground surrounded on all sides by peat for a year.

505: Oak bark (Quercus robur) is chopped in small pieces, placed inside the skull of a domesticated animal, surrounded by peat and buried in earth in a place where lots of rain water runs by.

506: Dandelion flowers (Taraxacum officinale) is stuffed into the peritoneum of cattle and buried in earth during winter and retrieved in the spring.

507: Valerian flowers (Valeriana officinalis) is extracted into water.

508: Horsetail (Equisetum)
One to three grams (a teaspoon) of each preparation is added to a dung heap by digging 50 cm deep holes with a distance of 2 meters from each other, except for the 507 preparation, which is stirred into 5 litres of water and sprayed over the entire compost surface. All preparations are thus used in homeopathic quantities, and the only intent is to strengthen the life forces of the farm.

Dealing with pests and weeds
Biodynamic agriculture sees the basis of pest and disease control arising from a strong healthy balanced farm organism. Where this is not yet achieved it uses techniques reminiscent of fertilization for pest control and weed control. Most of these techniques include using the ashes of a pest or weed that has been trapped or picked from the fields and ceremonially burnt. Steiner sees pests and weeds as a result of imbalance between life forces emanated from the earth.

Since Steiner viewed the full moon, Venus and Mercury as cosmic powers influencing the fertility of plants, the biodynamic techniques for pest control involves blocking the fertility influence from said planets on different pests. Steiner dictates that this is achieved in different ways for pests and weeds:

Pests such as insects or field mice (Apodemus) have more complex processes associated with them, depending on what pest is to be targeted. For example field mice are to be countered by deploying ashes prepared from field mice skin when Venus is in the Scorpius constellation.

Weeds are combated (besides the usual mechanical methods) by collecting seeds from the weeds and burning them above a wooden flame. The ashes from the seeds are then spread on the fields, which will according to biodynamic philosophy block the influence from the full moon on the particular weed and make it infertile.

Studies
There have been some attempts to scientifically compare organic and biodynamic farming, and others comparing biodynamic and conventional farming. The differences with organic farming are generally small, those with conventional farming more significant.

An April 16, 1993 a research article in Science magazine compared soil quality and financial performance of biodynamic and conventional farms in New Zealand. The article reported that, "The Biodynamic farms proved in most enterprises to have soils of higher biological and physical quality: significantly greater in organic matter, content and microbial activity, more earthworms, better soil structure, lower bulk density, easier penetrability, and thicker topsoil." The study compared biodynamic farms with adjacent conventional farms, but didn't attempt to compare farms of similar size, or with similar crops.

Skeptical view
Opponents of biodynamic agriculture argue that similar or equal results can be obtained using standard organic farming principles and that the biodynamic preparations more resemble alchemy or magic akin to geomancy.

Certifying organizations
The largest certification organisation for biodynamic farms is Demeter International and its national member organisations. In France Biodivin certifies Biodynamic wine.

New approaches using biodynamic principles
Further information: Non-certified biodynamic approaches
There are other approaches to biodynamics, some of which are not certified by Demeter, that employ some unique agricultural techniques, including those of Hugh Lovel, Greg Willis and Glen Atkinson. These are not universally accepted within the biodynamic movement.

Difference between Organic and Biodynamic
Any biodynamic produce is also organic. A biodynamic farm works exactly the same as an organic farm in using no pesticides, herbicides etc; but there are various agricultural methods which are unique to biodynamic farming. A list of differences is given below:
-Biodynamic agriculture uses Field Preparations (see above)
-Biodynamic agriculture uses Compost Preparations (see above)
-Biodynamic produce is certified by Demeter, but can be certified by an organic certifying body as well.
-Biodynamic agriculture uses an astrological calender to determine times of planting and harvesting
-The biodynamic farm as a whole is viewed as an organism





it's certainly not your "typical" outlook on organic gardening . . . and we find that criticisms such as . . . biodynamic preparations more resemble alchemy or magic akin to geomancy . . . do have a ring of truth to them . . . however there are a number of individuals who advocate the principles behind Biodynamic Agriculture . . . so maybe . . . just maybe . . . there is something to it . . . hopefully this thread will allow more discussion of the topic . . .
 
http://www.biodynamics.com/ is a link to the Biodynamic Farming and Gardening Association . . .

http://www.biodynamic.org.uk/ is a link to the The Biodynamic Agricultural Association . . .

http://www.demeter.net/ is the link to the Biodynamic Certifying Organization - Demeter . . .



the Demeter site is also where we found the following reference guide to other Biodynamic associations or contacts around the globe . . .

For more information please contact
Biodynamic Agriculture Australia Inc.
PO Box 54
AUS-NSW 2454 Bellingen
Australia
Phone: ++61-2-66-55-0566
Fax: ++61-2-66-55-0565
E-Mail: poss@midcoast.com.au


Biodynamic contact in Chile
Francisco Valenzuela Schulz
Parcela A 13
Fundo Alhué, Curacavi / Región Metropolitana
Chile
Phone: ++56 9 438 0771
Fax:
E-Mail: agriculturabiodin@yahoo.com


Drustvo za biolosko-dinamicko gospodarenje "DUGA"
Tina Ujevica 39
HR-40000 Cakovec
Croatia
Phone: ++385-40-38-40-52
Fax: ++385-40-38-40-52
E-Mail: bernarda.orehovec@ck.tel.hr
Internet: www.demeter.hr


PRO BIO
Biologisch-Dynamische Sektion
Nemocnicni 53, P. O. Box 116
CZ-78701 Sumperk
Czech Republic
Phone: ++42-649-21-6609
Fax: ++42-649-21-4586
E-Mail: pro-bio@pro-bio.cz
Internet: www.pro-bio.cz


Contact in Greece
Gabriel Panagos
Rodopis Str. 8 A
GR-15234 Halandri, Athen
Greece
Phone: +30 210 - 680 17 56 (morning)
Fax: +030 210 - 680 17 56


Biodinamikus Kôzhasznú Egyesület
Eötvös u. 24
H-7090 Tamási
Hungaria
Phone: 0036 23 343 148
Fax: 0036 23 343 148
E-Mail: mihaly.mezei@gmail.com


Kudraji
Inara Jansone
Aizputes pag.
LV-3456
Latvia
Phone: ++37 134 486 12
Fax: ++37 165 171 79
E-Mail: velgaj@navigator.lv


Asociacion de Agricultura Biodinamica - Peru
Pedro Otero
Corot 180
Lima 41
Peru
Phone: ++51 14 35 27 88
Fax:
E-Mail: biodinamicaperu@yahoo.com


Fundatia Kaspar Hauser
Str. Gh. Lazar 16
RO-2700 Deva
Romania
Phone: ++40-254-218-225
Fax: ++40-254-235-436
E-Mail: marius.gabor@lemninvest.ro


Agrosofia
Krasnaja, 20
RUS-141500 Solnechnogorsk
Russia
Phone: ++7 95 994 0397
Fax: ++7 95 994 0397
E-Mail: info@biodynamic.ru
Internet: www.biodynamic.ru


Bio-dynamic and Organic Agricultural Association of Southern Africa (BDAASA)
P.O. Box 494
Bergvlei
ZA-2012 Sandton
South-Africa
Phone: ++27-11-467-4925
Fax: ++27-11-467-0081
E-Mail: bdoca@telkomsa.net


"Lebendige Erde" in Ukraine
Alexander Denisenko
Pickoba 3/6
79010 Lviv
Ukraine
Phone: ++380 322 98 66 25
Fax:
E-Mail: tuag@is.lviv.ua
 
six interrelated principles

six interrelated principles

In order to provide an even more balanced view of Biodynamic practices . . . we compiled the following from http://www.ecoworld.com/home/articles2.cfm?tid=388

The practice of biodynamic farming rests on six interrelated principals:

Plant Diversity: The farm is an ecosystem, and to be healthy, the farm must embrace, utilize and emulate nature. The land on the farm needs to include habitat corridors and fallow areas. Some plants restore essential nutrients that other plants deplete, and visa versa. With biodynamics, encouraging this synergistic diversity is extended to micro-organisms through composting and use of homeopathic sprays that nurture beneficial micro-organisms.

Crop Rotation: Biodynamics depends on soil enrichment through regular crop rotations. Different food crops, cover crops, as well as leaving land fallow or wild all helps to maintain healthy soils. Crop rotation with biodynamics encourages beneficial insects, reduces compaction, and recycles nutrients.

Composting: This is perhaps the heart of a biodynamic farm, with a focus on soil quality, promoting growth, utilizing natural enrichments. Steiner's biodynamic vision relied on six key preparations, most of which are buried in the fall then unearthed and spread in the spring - all of this during precise periods in the solar year. Some stay buried a full year. These include chamomile flowers packed into a bovine intestine, oak bark buried inside the skull of a domestic animal, dandelion flowers stuffed into a bovine peritoneum (abdominal cavity), yarrow flowers filling a stag's bladder, as well as burying whole plants of stinging nettle and valerian flower extract. Each of these are treated in very specific manners in order through their decomposition to greatly enrich and revitalize compost and planting areas.

Homeopathic solutions: Homeopathy is the practice of using minute quantities of material to have a large effect on a large environment. Steiner specified two key homeopathic preparations, one to catalyse formation of life, and one to optimize distribution of light. Each of them are first prepared by burying the material in a cow's horn through the winter. His life formula uses manure containing billions of diverse microbial organisms, which multiply in the fertile fields if mixed with water and sprayed during certain climatic conditions. This formula, so potent a few ounces can easily cover an acre or more, helps create life in the soil, it promotes root activity, stimulates soil micro-life and increases growth of beneficial bacteria. Steiner's light formula, minutely ground quartz crystals, is mixed in minute quantities with water and sprayed onto the plants where millions of tiny prisms then capture and distribute more light, enhancing photosynthesis, bringing more light to the vines or other plants.

Animal life: All native animal life as well as a spectrum of domestic farm animals should be encouraged and managed in an optimal way on every farm. Animals who live on the farm help control weeds and insects, and contribute manure. Wild animals are not discouraged, only managed. Ways Ceago's keepers nurture animal life is by grazing sheep to eat the weeds (they don't bother the grapes) at the same time as their manure enriches the soil. Similarly, chickens are released within a mobile chicken coop to eat insects and produce compost.

Life forces: Biodynamics embraces the totality of the influence of the cosmos, not stopping at close attention to the cycles of the sun and moon, which obviously do influence the seasons, but also the planets and stars. Whether or not these finer points are valid is somewhat irrelevant, they provide guidelines that schematicize the myriad of necessary cycles; racking wine, pruning trees, the harvest, the crush. Who is to say where to draw the line between recognizing the influence of the phases of the moon on plants - which is generally accepted - and the influence of the planets, which obviously have a much more subtle role? Steiner certainly didn't shy away from acknowledging cosmic forces, for better or for worse.
 
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the following overview of biodynamic agriculture was also originally sourced from http://www.ecoworld.com/home/articles2.cfm?tid=388


Biodynamic farming claims to be the original and purest form of organic agriculture. Often misunderstood because biodynamic theories include aspects of mysticism, the practical concepts of biodynamics are the key to restoring the earth, reinvigorating lands; when chemicals and corporations fail, biodynamics can bring back what has been lost in our mechanized world.

Biodynamics is a word built on two words derived originally from ancient Greek; bio, meaning life, and dyn, meaning force. Biodynamics rests on the premise that any farm is still a natural ecosystem to be nurtured, that soil and cash crop health is dependent on retaining a natural balance where the health and vitality of the other plants, animals, insects, micro-organisms and soil are all integral to productive and sustainable farming.

Rudolph Steiner, the founder of biodynamics, was a scientist and mystic whose versatile output of writings influenced disciplines ranging from education to theology and philosophy.

It was relatively late in his life, in 1924, that he gave farmers, researchers and landowners who became the founders of biodynamic agriculture two weeks of instruction in his theories in Koberwitz, Silesia, in a part of Germany that is now southwestern Poland. Into seven scintillating lectures he attempted to synthesize everything he'd learned about biodynamic agriculture, incorporating not only scientific principals of agriculture that were being established in that day, but also traditional farming techniques which were being lost in the onrush of modernity. His lectures, which have been compiled in his classic book, Agriculture, aspired to combine the best of these traditions, while comingling somewhat more controversial theories about the influence of astrological forces.

Much of the concepts Steiner writes about that appear at first glance to be somewhat far fetched are in fact well recognized practices around the world, especially in areas where knowledge of traditional agricultural techniques are still strong. Planting on the full moon, when there is less gravity, or pruning on the new moon, when there is more gravity, are time-honored practices that have been validated by empirical observation. Whether or not this means that the timing of other agricultural techniques should take into account the positions of the planets is more debatable, of course, but throughout Steiner's book "Agriculture" he reiterates his belief that farmers must see for themselves. Everywhere in Steiner's writings he urges the readers to verify all of his ideas with scientific experimentation.

If anything might give one pause about biodynamic agriculture, and, for that matter, organic agriculture performed as it was originally intended, it is the high level of knowledge required for its successful practice. It is theoretically possible to eke equal measures of calories from the land using sustainable agricultural practices compared to chemical dependent practices. But the number of people involved in farming worldwide, and the level of expertise they would have to possess, would have to increase by orders of magnitude. Is it likely that we will repopulate the great plains of North America with small biodynamic - or organic - intensively cultivated farms? Because if we did, then American crops might still feed the urban centers of the world, but how likely is that? It is a beautiful dream, but in reality biodynamic or pure organic agriculture will probably remain a practice that takes root slowly, establishing niches of enlightened practitioners all over the world. The best we may hope for at the level of agricultural commodities may be Big Organic, somewhat reformed, more thoughtfully monitored, incrementally improved, but never completely true to its ideals.

Biodynamic agriculture is a science and belief system that transcends Steiner, or anyone's individual theories and teachings. It was articulated first by him, partly in reaction to the onslaught of industrialized agriculture that began a century ago. Mechanization, chemical treatments, and increasing standardization of agriculture prompted Steiner's attempt to preserve millenia of accumulated wisdom and superstitions which in their application had practical value - and were being washed away in a single generation.
To see the farm as a healthy ecosystem, to emphasize the health and interdependence not just of the crops, but all the plants, along with the farm animals and wildlife, and the soil and micro-organisms - to recognize the uniqueness of each terrain and live sustainably within the seasons - this at the core is highly advanced organic agriculture, true to its highest ideals. That is what Steiner, who in his heart and throughout his intellectual output was a scientist first, meant to be the overriding meaning of biodynamic agriculture. Biodynamics is a science that is meant to evolve, shedding the superfluous, yet recognizing the seasons, the stars, the individuality of each farm, each farmer, each climate and micro-climate, indeed every distinct culture and tradition where it may find its expression.
 
SEEDYNONO said:
pretty interesting i'd never even heard of this.

thanks for the post :wave:

we are glad you liked the compilation . . . we've been wanting to write an essay on Biodynamic Agriculture but simply weren't finding the time . . . so posting some of the online resources we've collected on the topic seemed to be a good idea . . .

if nothing else . . . it provides food for thought . . .
 

BakedBeans

Member
Jaykush, care to elaborate on your Nettle use?

I have been drinking a daily tea infusion of Urtica Dioica (Stinging Nettle) for the last month or so. I have a 1+ yr old Daisy in some coco/compost that had an ongoing aphid infestation problem (this is in the yard). I decided to dump a bunch of Nettle tea and leaf material on the Daisy and to my complete surprise all of the bugs were GONE in a day and haven't been back since.

I had tried Safer Soap a whole bunch of times before and it only seemed to knock them out for a week or so. The Nettles seem to innoculate the plant or something, even all of the eggs.

Nettles have many health benefits. The bulk herbs I buy from Mountain Rose won't sting you and I mix 1/2cup of Nettles, 1/2cup of Lemon Balm (Melissa), 1/2cup of Oat Straw and a tablespoon or so of Reishi Mushrooms (once reserved only for kings!). I add 2 quarts of boiling water to the herbs in a jar. I drop in a heaping tablespoon of raw, unfiltered local honey and I let it all brew for 6-8 hours or overnight if I forget about it. I then strain it in the morning with a French Press since I don't do caffeine anymore and pop it in the fridge. That will last 2 days or so and it's an awesome way to get extra water in during the day. The tea is not harsh, though the Reishi can make it a little cloudy. I water it down further 1/2 and 1/2 into a glass if I feel like it.

I have heard stories of people who survived years through WWI and WWII just by cultivating and consuming Nettles when they couldn't get many supplies and food shortages were common. One family went to a doctor sometime after the war was over and the physician couldn't believe how healthy the family was compared to others in the same area.


I need to do more experiments with nettle water. I hope to have something consistent I can measure with to see if it affects growth rate, pH, etc.

I have heard anecdotal stories of Cannabis and Urtica Dioica providing symbiotic benefits when grown together, but I have no other information.



bb
 
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jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
baked beans yes! thats the stuff i like to read.

nettles is an amazing plant and it has many many benefits.

yes nettles in the right percentage can be used in many different ways like you saying it got rid of aphids, it also helps with powdery mildew im sure. in very high concentrations it can be a weed killer as well for those ppl who hate them in there yard. ive tried it myself and it works fast.

some nettles taa sounds good, ive been meaning to eat some and make some teas with all the health benefits i dont know why im not doing it. i also collect my nettles fresh from the side of the river.

as for effect on mj. ive seen it make nugs swell in flowering and keep bugs away in the most infested area in veg. not sure about its effect on ph as i rarely test it.

for them growing next to each other without a doubt i can say it will benefit, when i go hiking and see a nettles patch on the side of the stream. EVERY plant within 100ft downstream was kick ass and HUGE compared to even 5 ft above the patch.

i use nettles in tea form as of now but i am doing testing as a soil amendment.

got any questions shoot me a pm
 
thanks for the very interesting question and comments . . .

Urtica dioica (the scientific name for stinging nettles) is used by biodynamic gardeners . . . and is said by a number of sources to be a good companion for cannabis . . . a growing friend turned us onto it a few years back . . . so it's great to see yet another fellow grower with some experience . . .
 

BakedBeans

Member
I think herbs may be a big next step in the evolution of indoor growing. It has been shaped by scientific processes up until now, but I believe commercial science has turned its' back on mother nature and the world has produced everything that we need to accomplish our goals. It's up to us to learn to use what is out there and to do it right. That is what the 21st century will be about. We will rediscover our Gaia. We already are. There is much more than just nutrients in that soil. :joint:


I think herbs have many uses in gardening and should be explored much further. I wonder if anyone has written any books. I guess I'll have to search. :)
 
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V

vonforne

Looks like someone is barking up JK's favorite tree. Watch out, this is his favorite thing in the world. HaHa.

Great thread!

My grandmother was a biodynamic grower. Old farm lady. I learned alot from her that I now use in my grows. Not as much as I'd like due to heavy smoking over the years....memory isn't what it used to be.

I have been searching my local area to grow the herbs at home and use them for ferts. JK got me re-interested in this a while back. It does look as though this will be the next and most cost effective way to supplement our plants without adding to the already high costs. I'm always looking for ways to cut the cost down. That is why I use the feed store on a regular basis.

Again Great thread guys. K+ to everyone here.

V
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
hehe V the greatest things in life are free :)

i wouldnt call myself a biodynamic grower though. i just use a lot of there principles and methods. some of the stuff they do is fuckin wierd to me. like composting nettles and dandelions in a animals bladder...uhhh im straight on that stuff haha.

baked beans there are a few books out there on the subject. a quick search and youll have too much to read i had a few noted down ill try to get them to you.
 
V

vonforne

Hey JK, Smurf told me about the horn thing they do down in Aussie land.
I thought that was weird myself. but if it works.....hey

V
 
V

vonforne

Hey everyone. I found out today that my city has an ECHO research center. What they do is research on what type of native plants are useful for food and other things. I called and said that I was doing research on different types of natural fertilizers for gardening. I'm waiting on a call back but they are giving tours on a bi-weekly basis. so, when I get time I'm going down there. I'm hoping to dig up some good information for us to use.

V
 
vonforne said:
Hey everyone. I found out today that my city has an ECHO research center. What they do is research on what type of native plants are useful for food and other things. I called and said that I was doing research on different types of natural fertilizers for gardening. I'm waiting on a call back but they are giving tours on a bi-weekly basis. so, when I get time I'm going down there. I'm hoping to dig up some good information for us to use.

V

sounds SWEET! :wave:

keep on learning and growing! :woohoo:
 

jolene

Member
Nettles are very very good for cannabis - bags of silica and other goodies - and also rabbits hate them (they get stung on the nose apparently) so where they grow wild you can plant your ganja and they are indicative of high P and N levels in the soil. As a tea they are the best thing when mixed with horsetails and as a bloom booster with comfrey. Stinks a bit though.
 

BakedBeans

Member
Some quick googling on Nettles. I'll be able to do more later...

----

http://www.seedsofknowledge.com/nettle.html

Stinging Nettle: Friend or Foe
By Brenda Hyde
Stinging nettle, Urtica dioica, is actually high in vitamin C, iron and potassium plus is used in herbal medicine as a treatment for many things, including allergies! However, if you handle the plant without heavy gloves you will most likely feel a burning sensation, as well as redness, white bumps and itchiness that can last up to 24 hours. Ironically, a juice made with the leaves will relieve its own stings. Dock is a plant that is often near nettle and if you rub your skin with one of its leaves you will find relief. Also, you can rub a paste made with baking soda and water on the affected area. (Never leave home without baking soda!)

SUSAN'S STINGING NETTLE TIPS Stinging nettle and woods nettle lose their "sting" after they've been cooked, and there's a bit of a thrill in being able to "bite" the plant back! If you're sure that the plant is indeed nettle (and if you've ever walked through it wearing shorts, you'll know...), wear long rubber gloves (I use the same kind I'd normally use for washing dishes) and approach the plant with a pair of scissors. Cut the stem about 6" from the top , taking the top 2 or 3 sets of leaves (the smaller top leaves are the most succulent, although if the plant has started to flower, even the top leaves may not be their tender best), take it home and (don't take off the gloves yet!) wash it. From here, treat it like spinach: place it in a soup pan with enough water to steam it (a couple of tablespoons is plenty, but add more if you feel the need), and bring it to a simmer. Once the leaves are good and wilted, it's safe to handle, and great to eat. Drain it well, squeezing out the excess water, and try it with red wine vinegar, or chop some up and stir it into scrambled eggs with some sautéed onion and feta cheese.

By the way, if you do brush the still-live plant, look around for a handful or two of plantain. Roll the plantain leaves between your palms to bruise them well, or if you're not squeamish, stuff them in your mouth and chew them to a poultice. (Again, be sure you know what you've got first! I can't stress this enough!) Either way, place the now shredded leaves on the nettle scratches. The sting will subside shortly.

USING STINGING NETTLE

Stinging nettle can be cooked, much as you would spinach and greens. The nettle loses its sting once it wilts from the cooking, as Susan mentioned above. Harvest the top 4 inches of the nettle plant for cooking use, and if there are any thick stems, remove those. You can combine the nettle with other cooking greens such as chard, kale or sorrel.

Stinging Nettle is also used in herbal teas and cosmetic recipes. The following is a nice hair rinse to try.

Nettle Hair Rinse

You'll need:
4 tsp. stinging nettle leaves
1/2 cup boiling water

Place the nettle in a glass bowl and pour over the boiling water. Let it infuse for 10-15 minutes. Cool it to luke warm, and slowly pour over your hair after it's been shampooed and is still damp. Massage your scalp and hair as you pour it over slowly.

About the author:
Brenda Hyde is a wife and mom to three living in the Midwest United States. She is also editor of OldFashionedLiving.com.

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http://www.nettles.org.uk/


Nettle Leaf Plant Food

Nettle leaves can be used to make an easy to use, if somewhat smelly, plant food. Best of all it's free!

To make your nettle fertiliser you will need only four things:

1. Nettles! - obviously.
2. A watertight container - a large bucket is adequate.
3. Water, and
4. A wait, sorry a weight. Not essential but makes the process easier as I will explain.

First take your nettles. These are best as young stems but can be taken at any time. Quicker results are obtained if the nettle stems and leaves are bruised.

Then crush them. This can be done by scrunching the stems in gloved hands or by placing the stems on a freshly mown lawn and using your mower to chop and collect the nettles at the same time. The addition of a few grass clippings that results from using this method does not affect the quality of the finished product.

Immerse in water Stuff the crushed stems into your bucket. Place your weight on top of the stems. You may have to use a little ingenuity here - I have used a broken paving slab in the past. A brick and a piece of wire mesh cut to suit the cointainer serves equally well. Fill the container with water sufficient to cover the nettles and...

Leave to brew. This is where the original wait comes in. You may also consider placing the bucket away from the areas in the garden that you use most as the soup tends to get rather smelly.

Dilute to taste. After around three or four weeks the liquid should be ready for use. The mixture should be diluted until it is tea coloured - usually around 1 part liquid to 10 parts water. Water liberally around or on the plants and see the benefits.

Repeat until winter. Continue to top up your container with more leaves and water through the year. As autumn sets in put the remainder of the feed and the sludge in your compost heap. Give your container a rinse and store for next year!

Happy gardening.


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bb :rasta:
 

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