led05
Chasing The Present
have you ever grown strains that go over say 10, 12 or 14 weeks flower time? If so, do you finish or try to finish green with them?
I think finishing wld strains green makes sense, 14, 16, 20 week NLD, not as much
thoughts?
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The Lounge : Growers Round Table Discussion Thread
- Thread starter growingcrazy
- Start date
have you ever grown strains that go over say 10, 12 or 14 weeks flower time? If so, do you finish or try to finish green with them?
I think finishing wld strains green makes sense, 14, 16, 20 week NLD, not as much
thoughts?
growingcrazy
Well-known member
Strain dependent. Some sativa genetics will just put out new pistils if you keep pushing N all the way, others don't.
Currently my longest flowering plant in rotation is 13 weeks (panama). It gets one week of water off to the side of the room at the end. Have some hazes/mex/guerro coming up for a summer run so that could be a good test.
Currently my longest flowering plant in rotation is 13 weeks (panama). It gets one week of water off to the side of the room at the end. Have some hazes/mex/guerro coming up for a summer run so that could be a good test.
Rodehazrd
Well-known member
Hello Guys
I have been using a CaCo4 from florida as my lime component. Lately my grow guy keeps trying to sell aragonite as a more available calcium option. I have seen many times in rock shops aragonite in different colors. This surely means some impurities are present. If I use the stuff does anyone know what impurities I may be adding to my buds if any? They sure are proud of it compared to a bag of lime.
I have been using a CaCo4 from florida as my lime component. Lately my grow guy keeps trying to sell aragonite as a more available calcium option. I have seen many times in rock shops aragonite in different colors. This surely means some impurities are present. If I use the stuff does anyone know what impurities I may be adding to my buds if any? They sure are proud of it compared to a bag of lime.
The most likely one is magnesium but that one doesn't result in any colour except that it might turn whitish-milky. There are many other possible impurities which may or may not be deduced from the colour they impart. Amongst others, several ones are non-essential or at worst toxic such as lead... but it seems less likely that such an aragonite would be sold as soil amendment. Yellow to brown colours are often the result of trace amounts of iron or manganese but may simply be the result of an imperfect crystal growth or a lattice defect, pink and mauve may be cobalt and manganese, respectively, blue could be cobalt or copper or even titanium, green is often copper but might be iron or vanadium, inclusions of zinc and lead are mostly colourless to grey, chromium can result in red, green and everything in between, blue may be iron, boron or again imperfect crystals. And if there are several different impurities present, you end up with something unpredictable. To make things worse, if the stone is ground to a fine powder, the colour usually changes again. And the worst thing is, aragonite isn't necessarily aragonite but might well be a mix of undefined calcium carbonate modifications (and if it has been heat treated, the colour is likely yet again a different one). If you had a pure stone from a known origin it might be possible to figure out which traces are in there.
That's a long answer to simply say: You can't know without someone running a mineral analysis (like the mining company)
.
M
moose eater
My pesky and troublesome batch of clones have found a slightly diluted version of the soil mix from the other day.
I checked the ph of the larger bloom mix this A.M. again and found it had shifted to ~6.8 or so. Again, unusual for my alcohol-based reagent (LaMotte's 2221 reagent) to not acquire a reliable representation right off in testing. So something in there is stubborn in showing up for the party.
Also, according to the literature, rice hulls have a tendency to express an alkaline ph, but for some reason the alkalinity isn't supposed to affect ph of the mix overall. They apparently keep their alkalinity to themselves. Another mystery to resolve, if I live long enough..
The cloning mix I'd been using had been a Pro-Mix, Perlite, Vermiculite, and slight dolomite mix, plus bio-fungicide prophylactic, enzyme in slight amount, etc.
I decided to get creative this time around. Typically a bad idea when something had already been giving close to 100% success rate as it was, but in the Vintage Mexican Seeds thread, the concept of adding Bokashi Bran and Worm Castings to make a seedling mix for old, tired heirloom/landrace seeds was raised, and I thought (mistakenly, apparently) "Why not?" Now I know why not; and probably related to others' concerns re. Mg, etc., in castings, though maybe not. Maybe a number of things combined..
At a minimum, seeds are not clones. As my wife's chemistry professor once said, "Things which are different, are not the same." Seems elementary enough, yet here I am, reminding myself of this fact.
So I'm back to making another tray of cuttings to accompany the survivors from this last venture.. but without the Bokashi and EWCs..
Nothing like doing an undesirable job 2-3 times to reinforce sticking to what works, without the need to reach for better.. I'm there now.. At least somewhat.
I checked the ph of the larger bloom mix this A.M. again and found it had shifted to ~6.8 or so. Again, unusual for my alcohol-based reagent (LaMotte's 2221 reagent) to not acquire a reliable representation right off in testing. So something in there is stubborn in showing up for the party.
Also, according to the literature, rice hulls have a tendency to express an alkaline ph, but for some reason the alkalinity isn't supposed to affect ph of the mix overall. They apparently keep their alkalinity to themselves. Another mystery to resolve, if I live long enough..
The cloning mix I'd been using had been a Pro-Mix, Perlite, Vermiculite, and slight dolomite mix, plus bio-fungicide prophylactic, enzyme in slight amount, etc.
I decided to get creative this time around. Typically a bad idea when something had already been giving close to 100% success rate as it was, but in the Vintage Mexican Seeds thread, the concept of adding Bokashi Bran and Worm Castings to make a seedling mix for old, tired heirloom/landrace seeds was raised, and I thought (mistakenly, apparently) "Why not?" Now I know why not; and probably related to others' concerns re. Mg, etc., in castings, though maybe not. Maybe a number of things combined..
At a minimum, seeds are not clones. As my wife's chemistry professor once said, "Things which are different, are not the same." Seems elementary enough, yet here I am, reminding myself of this fact.
So I'm back to making another tray of cuttings to accompany the survivors from this last venture.. but without the Bokashi and EWCs..
Nothing like doing an undesirable job 2-3 times to reinforce sticking to what works, without the need to reach for better.. I'm there now.. At least somewhat.
led05
Chasing The Present
IME the long(er) ones (anything over 12 weeks) if you try and keep green you're fighting the wrong battle.
led05
Chasing The Present
I've got a mix I've been working on for years. Destroyer from Charlie back in the day, think 2008/09, Original ECSD from mid to late 90's and then mixed with Dubi Panama from 5-6 years back....
So the mix is Dest25%/Diesl25% x Panama 50% - it's an amazing blend and the Panama & Destroyer have knocked away ALL tendencies of the Old school Diesel Herm traits and also the fall over knockers they have..... The best part is the Dest & panama don't take away but add to the effect, big time...
I call it DD&P and I have about 15 diff iterations of it, my favorite plant so far...
I'm also working the same lines but instead of Panama a very old school Haze that could flower 16 weeks or 30 depending on what you do
I think WLD need to end green, NLD, especially the really long ones if you're fighting for green your doing it wrong, the leaves should be falling off and it makes it that much easier to trim
Peace brothers and sisters, busy times
led05
Chasing The Present
I love this pick, it looks almost like some Alaskan Ingenuity out back there but much warmer
led05
Chasing The Present
Dubi's Guatemala & Honduras are pretty amazing Central American lines too btw, similar to Panama with the flavor & typical CA varieties but also different in their own ways. He stopped the Guat line in pure form but there's some amazing in there, slight herm potential on both the Guat & Hondo lines but both worth looking thru. The guat being the most WLD of the 3 IME
Arnold.
Active member
I'm not an expert myself, but I'm surrounded by people whose passion is NLD. And I guess they would all agree with you on this.
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Here is a soil test done in early May. Soil was taken from about 14 different spots in a small garden. It was mixed well and 4 cups taken out for the labs.
The soil was amended in late Dec 17 and we got maybe 9" of rain after that. Amended with fish bone meal, cotton seed meal, feather meal, fir fines and a few other things.
here's what I see from the soil results
.
Sulfur
is about 3 times higher than i'm used to seeing. I'm not sure if that's bad. I think it's from the gypsum applications last year. Although the Ca level does not reflect that. Maybe more of the Ca got used up by the plant?
Mg,FE and K are still a little high.
Cu,Zn and Mn are a little low.
I'm hoping the cotton seed meal and fir fines drop the ph to 6.7 or so by June sometime.
Let me know your thoughts on this soil
Cheers
The soil was amended in late Dec 17 and we got maybe 9" of rain after that. Amended with fish bone meal, cotton seed meal, feather meal, fir fines and a few other things.
here's what I see from the soil results
.
Sulfur
is about 3 times higher than i'm used to seeing. I'm not sure if that's bad. I think it's from the gypsum applications last year. Although the Ca level does not reflect that. Maybe more of the Ca got used up by the plant?
Mg,FE and K are still a little high.
Cu,Zn and Mn are a little low.
I'm hoping the cotton seed meal and fir fines drop the ph to 6.7 or so by June sometime.
Let me know your thoughts on this soil
Cheers
Attachments
led05
Chasing The Present
I’m personally a haze whore so I’d bark up that tree. Availability is the real Crux. I have some old versions of Nevs Haze 15-16 weeks and a Mango Haze that’s more like 14, both have the Frankincense to them but each unique, the Nev scares some, the Mango is pure bliss IMO, I love them both.
I’d plant something that has the frankincense trait locked in and goes at least 13 weeks, The actual names mean less to me and who calls what , what etc... the stems will end purple too for sure and trichs small but numerous, fan leaves fall off... Thai and Central American mix lovely IME ...
The stems purpling are always my favorite... it’s not a deficiency... Ive grown out a ton of OTH for example and few get the purple stems I’m talking about, they are always my favorite...
growingcrazy
Well-known member
After hearing that same thing about Neville's Haze numerous times, and now you confirming...I'm picking some up.
Jidoka, do you have an indoor room at your place or you just run outdoor?
Jidoka, do you have an indoor room at your place or you just run outdoor?
led05
Chasing The Present
Unless you can get stock from the 90's/2000's I'm certain it won't be anywhere near the same, sadly....
The only thing close to what it was back then today is Mango Haze IMO, and it makes sense, that is Shanti's flagship and Fav so I think he focused more on keeping that one true, longer. again, my opinion
Most prefer the MH I have over the NH, the NH can be dark, trippy, anxiety driven etc. but once past the initial hump, it's mushrooms in a herb
Above when I mentioned the naming thing this is why - Your Neville Haze isn't my NH even if you got from same breeder, this goes for many, many strains. Then you have the terds just slapping fake names on everything, I think we all get this and is why even when we think it's apples to apples perhaps it Asian pears to apples or even worse oranges to apples...
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led05
Chasing The Present
The strain game, Mextiza is a nice one....
Something to note, most strains in the Western Hemisphere have their origins from Africa and or Thai / SE Asian regions, once here they of course acclimated to local climates, altitudes etc. - nowadays they all tend to have some WLD in them, very, very hard to find ones that don't.
I have grown Panama a lot, to me it looks about a 50/50 hybrid, I know Luis will never agree to this but if you've grown enough you know this... I mean NH is 75/25 and goes 5-6 weeks longer than Panama, I've had some Panama end at 10-11 weeks, pure NLD equatorial I think not, great plant, amazing breeding material, absolutely
People really into this shit should read the book by Clarke and Merlin - long ass, deep read but the best on this plant's history, by far I have ever come across
Final note - When growing NLD, I think the grower needs to think about their day-length hours a lot more, more like start at 13 or 14 on and end around 11 or 1130 on, shaving 15 minutes a week or 3 / day down until 11 or 1130.
Thinking about the true origins of your plant and it's regional climate, day-length, altitude etc should all be considerations if you're truly dialing
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growingcrazy
Well-known member
Double the P, double the Cu, bring Si to around 30. Run it.
Such small text.
Running O-haze x Haze 19 and Reunion Haze from Mystic... I like trippy hazes.
