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Elan's Closet - Purple Kush - SCROG - Ebb & Flow

djslife

Active member


Hey Icmag,

Thanks for checking out my journal! :tiphat:

To start off I’d like to thank a some of the members from Icmag for the knowledge and motivation gained from your threads. I'm not here to kiss anyones butt, but I do believe in showing respect to the people that helped me along the way even if it is indirectly.

From Growing in Coco-Coir:
  • H3ad (your overall attitude and general knowledge made learning about coco-coir enjoyable).

From Cannabis Harvesting & Processing:
  • Simon (your perfect cure sticky was killer).

From Micro Grows:
  • Aerohead (your ingenuity is inspirational and always reminds me how affordable high quality grows can be).
  • Blynx (your 1sqft. Log was always awesome to read because you’re meticulous, keep it up!).
  • DrBudGreengenes (just keep doing your thing man, you’ve already had enough praise and I appreciate your consistency).

From Growroom Designs and Equipment
  • Pico (all your tutorials have super helpful).

From Side by Side Grow Experiments:
  • Hempfield (your defoliation log with the NYCD cuts was really informative).

I've been lurking for a long time, just researching and planning and now I'm finally in an appropriate environment to start my first grow. :dance013:

I built this setup piece by piece, but I tried to do it as clean as possible. I'm very open to hearing your ideas and wisdom from all of you is encouraged. Try to keep any debates that come up entertaining at least so we don’t have to read something boring.

I'll be posting periodically after taking weekly photos of my build, posting the numbers I've logged (pH, PPM, Temps), general progress, and shout-outs for help.

Now on to the details:

  • Plants: Dark Heart Nursery's - Purple Kush (Clones) - 9-10 Week Flower Time
  • Style: Ebb and Flow
  • Room: Closet (3.5’x3.5’x8’)
  • Walls: Lined with black and white panda film
  • Sound Dampening: 1 - ¼” foam matt from Walmart (reduces some of the vibration from air and water-pump)
  • Structure: 2 - Seven-foot racks secured back to back and placed on top of the sound dampening. They’re perfect because there’s a bottom platform, another platform about two to three feet above that so I can store the reservoir snuggly in between there, and then there’s a good four feet of grow space above that (minus the hood space).
  • Reservoir: 1 - 27-gallon Professional Box from Target, Walmart, or Lowes
  • Res. Oxygenation: 1 - Eco Plus - Ecoair2 adjustable double outlet air pump connected to two 12” airstones running 24/7 that are weighed down by heavy stainless steel chain that was sterilized (want to get better airstones eventually)
  • Water Pump: I believe it pumps between 150-160 gallons per hour
  • Tray: 1 - 2’x2’ Botanicare with bulkhead from local shop
  • Pots: 4 - 10 gallon Smart Pots
  • Medium: Hydrocorn (washed till clear and then 24 hour soak in pH’d water)
  • Screen: 1 – Custom sized PVC square topped by a fence with 2”x4” holes
  • Hood: 1 - Sun System Yield Master 2-6" Classic, sealed, but side ports are unsealed
  • Bulb: Sunlight 250w Metal Halide w/mogul base (keeps closet temps between 75-85f) switching to 600w HPS for flowering (hoping winter temps are cold enough to keep temps reasonable).
  • Nutrients: Keeping it simple and running the Lucas formula with General Hydroponics’ FloraMicro and FloraBloom (4ml/g Micro, 8ml/g Bloom to start the clones and 8ml/g Micro, 16ml/g Bloom once roots are established)
  • Watering Schedule: Floods for three minutes each hour and a half (veg.) change to each hour (flower) (only when lights are on)
  • Air Circulation: One clip on fan blowing over the glass of the hood and a small oscillating desk fan blowing all around the room

I will be getting a fan and activated filter, just have that in the budget for a few weeks from now.

The babies look pretty stressed right now 'cause I just transplanted them a few hours ago.

Sorry for the long post, but I figure the more information I put here, the less info people will need help finding down the road.

More pics are on the way!

Thanks for reading and being an awesome community in general, :huggg:

-djslife




 

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dubberz

Member
Looks great - good luck with it :)

Just a hint for you: you willl probably want to place the air pump over the level of the water in your reservoir. If the pump fails, the hose(s) can siphon the content of your reservoir to the floor. That, or add a check valve to the air hoses.
 

djslife

Active member
Looks great - good luck with it :)

Just a hint for you: you willl probably want to place the air pump over the level of the water in your reservoir. If the pump fails, the hose(s) can siphon the content of your reservoir to the floor. That, or add a check valve to the air hoses.

Hey Dubberz,

Awesome, thanks for the advice. This rack just gets better and better, I can just put it on the second shelf for the perfect height.

Thanks again,

-djslife
 

djslife

Active member
Hey everyone,

Checked in on the room this morning and the plants are bouncing back slowly. They're liking the breeze around the room and the winter temps rolling in are keeping the room in the perfect temp ranges at night (between 75-83f last night).

I have a couple questions though:
  • With H2O2, what concentrations and dosing schedules are you guys having success with? I believe I read that it needs to be re-dosed every three days unless you have it hooked up to a doser style setup, but I’m on a budget so I’m hand dosing (3% at 3 fluid oz./gallon). I could be totally off though.
  • Have you guys had any success with additions to the basic Lucas Formula (Micro 8ml/Bloom 16ml)?

Nice looking set up.

Nice to see that level of preplanning.

Thanks MicroRoy, it's definitely a work in progress and I'm still trying to translate everything I've read over the years into actual practice and it's a been a little daunting, haha.

Wrapping my head around adding back nutrients to a partially full reservoir just seems so backwards in my mind for some reason. I'm picking it up, but initially it was pretty confusing.


Ahhh, what's up Marlo!

Dude, you don't know how many times I've read through your W.o.W. logs. You're 2011 journal with the individual vertical screens in each pot was an awesome idea. I'm going to try your style a little further down the road covering a few of my walls.


Thanks for the love guys,

-djslife
 
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Marlo

Seedsweeper
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Very much appreciated sir. I hope to have something to contribute soon.
Hopefully ur closet will soon be flooded with purple kush!
 

djslife

Active member
Hey guys,

It’s my day off so I’ve been in and out of closet throughout the day.

I checked the res. around 12pm, it was at 6.15, so I added a teaspoon of General Hydroponics pH down. I retested about an hour after initially testing the water and got these numbers:

  • pH: 5.64
  • uS: 936
  • PPM: 468
  • Water Temp: 77.2F

If anything seems off to you about their numbers, please let me know because I'm researching on my own, but like I said this is my first time really running through it all.

I also threw on the heavy duty light hangers I ordered and they’re a huge improvement from the chain I was using before. Raising and lowering is now a one-person job vs having my partner there to assist. I lowered the light about an inch and half to see how the plants respond.

There's a couple pics there, one shows those hangers and the other shows the feeding distributor. It's been working really well and lets me focus the water wherever it's needed until the roots get established.

Very much appreciated sir. I hope to have something to contribute soon.
Hopefully ur closet will soon be flooded with purple kush!

Thanks again, Marlo!

-djslife
 

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djslife

Active member
What's up guys,

The babies are recovering well, but the temps during the day are getting a little too warm. Luckily we're going into the colder season here so I'm keeping my fingers crossed for cold nights.

Todays levels as of 8:10pm are:

  • pH: 5.64 (corrected from 6.12)
  • uS: 973
  • PPM: 486
  • Res. Temp: 81.6

I re-dosed with H2O2 today, I'm interested to see how they like it. I think with the warmer temps in the room I'll need to stay on top of this dose to keep anything from growing in the res.

You'll be able to see what looks like heat stress to me, but let me know if you guys think it's something else. I'm considering throwing some CO2 bags in there in a few weeks to help them manage the heat a little better.

I have some more pics, but I maxed the count out so I'm gonna follow up in a minute.

Thanks for stopping by guys,

-djslife
 

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djslife

Active member
Part 2

Here's the rest of the pics that I couldn't fit.
 

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djslife

Active member
What's' up IC :wave:

Busy day today, we:

  1. Dumped the old nutes
  2. Sanitized the res. with H2O2
  3. Cleaned the water pump/hoses
  4. Remixed the next batch of nutes at the 8/16 dosage and H2O2 (still playing with the dose, but getting close)
  5. Put away the top feeding manifold/reconnected the ebb and flow setup
  6. Started low stress training

The numbers as of 3:11pm today:

  • pH: 5.58
  • uS: 1726
  • PPM: 850
  • Water Temp.: 72.6f

Now that they've established a little bit of a root system, I feel comfortable switching to feeding from the bottom up and start with the LST. I'm training them by bending each plant towards their nearest corner and have secured them in place with coated training wire (keeps from cutting into the plant) from Home Depot.

About an hour after training and the first feeding with the new increased nutrient mix they're responding well. They've already changed direction and all their flower sights are pointing upwards :dance013:

I love growing, even with the daily pH checks, weekly nute mixing, managing temps, pruning, etc. it still brings me satisfaction that I don't get from other areas of my life. Maybe it's the routine or the discipline or maybe the constant growth happening. Probably a little bit of a lot of different things, either way I've noticed that I feel significantly calmer now that I've started these routines. It's starting to seem semi-therapeutic.

Thanks for reading, amigos :smoke:

-djslife
 

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djslife

Active member
Some more pics from the garden.
 

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djslife

Active member
Good morning IC,


Current numbers as of 8:00am this morning:

  • pH: 5.70
  • uS: 1696
  • PPM: 848
  • Water Temp: 76.1f
  • Room Temp: 78.3f
  • Humidity: 53%

Alright checked in on the room first thing this morning and found the girls a little droopy. I don't think they're getting enough water, but I don't understand why.

I reset the new timer using the formula:

y/x=f​

"y" = the hours in your day
"x" = equals the number of settings your timer has
"f" = the frequency of your flooding

This means that if my day time is 18 hours long (y), and my timer has ability to save 16 settings (x), then that should make my flooding frequency roughly every 68 minutes.

18/16 = f
1.125 = f

So flood every 1.125 hours.

Now we know that the 1 from this answer equals 60 minutes. We have the remainder of 0.125 hours that we still need to turn into useable information so we multiply 0.125 times 60 minutes to give us the number of minutes that will need to be entered into the timer (n).

0.125 x 60 = n
7.5 = n

So if my process and math is correct I should be watering roughly every 68 minutes.

I had it set to flood for three minutes initially, then bumped it to 4 so the res. could fill and flow for a moment then drain, but with the droopy leaves I've decided to try bumping the watering time up to 5 minute flooding every 68 minutes.

A little background on this, I started out with a Titan Controls - Apollo 7, but it only has 8 settings which makes Macro-style feeding impossible. To remedy this I bought a 16 setting Heavy-Duty Appliance Timer from Lowes that has been okay, but I just don't understand why when I'm getting in the room during mornings that the plants don't look like they've been watered.

Looks great Dj. How long you planning on veg'n?

What's up Marlo,

Thanks man, I don't have an exact timeline for veg. because this is my first time running anything, but my plan is to maximize my space as much as possible by widening her out laterally before dropping the screen down, organizing their bud-sites, and finally flipping to flower. I'm really hoping that it takes about 2-3 weeks to fill out so the ambients temps can get a little lower with the seasons.

Thanks for the love, bro!

-djslife
 

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FtLotG

New member
Nice setup man, I'll definitely echo the preplanning sentiment! I love nerding out over the details, especially when all the planning gets realized by way of fantastic nugs :)

Regarding the watering situation; I think what you are experiencing is a bit of over watering, hence the drooping leaves. From what I saw you are dealing with a bit of heat stress but noting too serious. Sometimes it's difficult to balance humidity/temps/airflow without sacrifice in one area, but that sweet spot of 80f/50% humidity with plenty of air is the goal at your stage.

I suggest drawing down your watering schedule for a day and see if it helps.

Also, what is your goal with ventilation? Once you switch over to the 600 watts HPS you will definitely need a solution to manage those temps.

I am also curious what prompted you to clean the res with h202?

And I'm not sure if I missed it, but what's the story with your girls; when was their first feed, how much, and how long have you been vegging them up til now?

It looks like we are at similar stages, scept I started from seed, so I'll be keeping tabs on your thread for sure! Looks good :)
 

djslife

Active member
What's up IC,

I found a couple simple solutions to the issues I was having with the drooping leaves. :woohoo:

I noticed that the front two plants were growing a little faster than the back two which is odd because they're all the same healthy cuts and the nutes are being delivered at the same rate due to bottom up flooding. Then I remembered that when we cut into the rack to make room for the hoses it made the tray sit in a way that left a little stagnant water undrained. To solve that, I found two identical risers that were a great idea at the time, but now were making the water level uneven which was leaving the back two plants at a deficit.

I replaced the old risers with a few Bic pens on the back left, back right, and front right corner to ensure drainage. I did one up front as well because it tested lower on the right. I left that alone for a few hours and came back and they've already starting to perk up. :ying:



Nice setup man, I'll definitely echo the preplanning sentiment! I love nerding out over the details, especially when all the planning gets realized by way of fantastic nugs :)

Regarding the watering situation; I think what you are experiencing is a bit of over watering, hence the drooping leaves. From what I saw you are dealing with a bit of heat stress but noting too serious. Sometimes it's difficult to balance humidity/temps/airflow without sacrifice in one area, but that sweet spot of 80f/50% humidity with plenty of air is the goal at your stage.

I suggest drawing down your watering schedule for a day and see if it helps.

Also, what is your goal with ventilation? Once you switch over to the 600 watts HPS you will definitely need a solution to manage those temps.

I am also curious what prompted you to clean the res with h202?

And I'm not sure if I missed it, but what's the story with your girls; when was their first feed, how much, and how long have you been vegging them up til now?

It looks like we are at similar stages, scept I started from seed, so I'll be keeping tabs on your thread for sure! Looks good :)

Hey FtLotG,

Haha, that's the hope! :plant grow:

Thank you for the advice, man. I actually addressed it in this post, but I agree with you on the heat stress. We had our MH on 24 hours a day and at first it worked, but then the temps got into the high 90s so I switched out the 400w MH for a 250w MH which was a huge difference, but now we've been pushing into the high 80s which I want to avoid so we're switching to an 18 hours on/6 hours off schedule to miss the hottest ambient temp. hours of the day.

For flowering, I recently scored a 6-inch Solar Wind inline fan for cheap so now I just need the ducting, tape, and scrubber. I'll also have two jars of ONA gel with air circulating to try and help with the smell during flowering. I have a couple of ideas of how I'm going to go about odor control and atmosphere, but when we finalize on it I'll let everyone know. For now we have the fans circulating the air and tomorrow will be the first day running the system at 18/6.

I cleaned the res. because there was dust building up in the bottom of it. The floor in the closet gets a little grainy due to whatever they used to surface it so today I covered the walkway to the grow in plastic to minimize it. I've read a lot about the benefits of H2O2, but the quote I posted below is probably one of the best ones I've found.

The girls are Dark Heart Nursery's Purple Kush clones and their first res. was filled with half-strength Lucas formula (4m/8b per gal.) and sanitized and remixed with Lucas's full strength, H2O2, and a little pH up yesterday. I'm running RO water, but haven't noticed any issues that I've seen some mention here in relation to needing CalMag so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.


What is Hydrogen Peroxide?

Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) it is made up of Hydrogen (H2) and Oxygen (O2), however H2O2 has an extra Oxygen atom in an unstable arrangement - it is this extra negatively charged Oxygen atom that gives H2O2 its useful properties. H2O2 is used for many purposes including cleaning, bleaching, sterilizing, rocket fuel, animal feed treatment and in addition many miraculous claims about its health benefits have been made. This faq focuses on its use in horticultural applications. H2O2 is of great use for both hydroponics and dirt/soilless gardening.


What Does Hydrogen Peroxide do?

H2O2 is an unstable molecule; when it breaks down, a single oxygen atom (O-)and a molecule of water is released. This oxygen atom is extremely reactive and will attach itself to either another Oxygen atom (forming a stable O2 molecule) or attack a nearby organic molecule.

H2O2 will rapidly eliminate the Chlorine used in many municipal water supplies, as well as degrade any pesticides, herbicides or other organic matter that might be present. Well water is often high in methane and organic sulfates, both of which H2O2 will remove.

Both the stable and O- forms will increase the level of dissolved oxygen. Increasing the DO in your nutrient solution will benefit the root system and be detrimental to harmful anaerobic bacteria such as pythium.

Many disease-causing organisms and spores are killed by the free O- atom. The free Oxygen atom will destroy dead organic material (i.e., leaves and roots) in the system, preventing them from rotting and spreading diseases. H2O2 will help eliminate existing infections and will help prevent future ones. It is also useful for suppressing algae growth.


Over Watering

Both soil and hydroponic plants often fall prey to the same syndrome. Hydroponic crops often fail due to "root rot" and soil crops succumb to "over-watering." The actual cause is a shortage of Oxygen at the root zone, allowing a Pythium infection to take hold.

In a soil system, the soil consists of particles, a film of water on the particles and air spaces between the particles. When too much water is put into the soil, the air spaces fill with liquid. The roots will quickly use up the dissolved oxygen within these pore spaces. If the root system has not absorbed the water within these pore spaces, air will not be able to enter and Oxygen within that space will become depleted. In a low oxygen environment, roots will begin dying within twenty-four hours.

As the roots die, the plant’s ability to uptake water and nutrients will drastically decrease, and the plant will show symptoms of nutrient deficiencies (pale leaves, and slow growth). Plants will start to wilt (appearing water deficient) – at this point many growers will mistakenly water their plants!

In a Hydroponic system, oxygen deprivation is often caused by high temperatures and inadequate nutrient circulation and/or aeration. High reservoir temperatures interfere with Oxygen's ability to dissolve into water. Temperatures above 70F (20C) will eventually cause problems, 62F-65F (16C-18C) is recommended.

Oxygen deprivation symptoms in hydroponics are similar to that of soil - but at least you are able to check the roots. Healthy roots should be mostly white with maybe a slight yellowish tan tinge. If they are a brownish color with dead tips or they easily pull away there is at least the beginning of a serious problem. An organic, ‘dirt like’ rotting smell means there is already a very good chance it is too late. As roots die and rot, they remove Oxygen out of the water; as Oxygen levels are depleted even further. more will roots die - a viscous circle!. Reduced Oxygen levels and high temperatures encourage anaerobic bacteria and fungi, which attack the plant further mercilessly.


How does Hydrogen Peroxide prevent root rot & over-watering?

Plants watered with H2O2 will experience extra oxygen in the root zone when the peroxide breaks down. This helps stop the Oxygen from being depleted in the water filled air spaces until air can get back into them. High Oxygen levels at the roots will encourage rapid healthy root growth. In a Hydroponic systems, H2O2 will disperse through out the system and raise Oxygen levels as it breaks down. Strong white healthy roots with lots of fuzzy new growth will be visible. This fuzzy growth has massive surface area allowing for rapid absorption of the huge amounts of water and nutrients needed for rapid top growth. A healthy plant starts with a healthy root system.


How to use/apply it

H2O2 comes in several different strengths: 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using. When working with food grade H2O2, it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost oxidize everything very quickly. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical.

Food grade H2O2 can be diluted to three percent by mixing it one part to eleven parts water (preferably distilled). The storage container should be opaque to prevent light from getting in and it must be able to hold some pressure. If three-liter pop bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2. There are twelve quarter liters (250ml) in three liters, if you put in one quarter liter H2O2 and eleven quarter liters (250ml) water in the bottle it will full of three percent H2O2 and the bottle can hold the pressure that the H2O2 will generate.

Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to 3 ml's per liter (2 1\2 tsp. per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks.

For hydroponic applications:

Use every reservoir change and replace twenty-five percent (one quarter) every day. Example: In a 100L (25gal) reservoir you would add three hundred ml's (3%) H2O2 when changing the nutrient. You would then add seventy-five ml's more every day.

Editor’s note:

high concentrations of H2o2 can be detrimental to organic additives (such as beneficial additives) and organic nutrient mixtures.


Application:

US Standard
1.28*G/C= Liquid Oz's per day

Metric
10*L/C= Ml per day

Where;
C= % concentration of H2O2
L= Number of liters in reservoir
G= Number of Gallons in reservoir

Example: How much 3% H202 should I add to 7 gallons of nutes?
1.28*7/3=2.986 Oz's each day.


Where to get it

35% food grade is called “food grade” because it has no toxic impurities. Of course your local hydroponics retailer or web stores have it (there may be shipping restrictions on high strength peroxides). The local feed supplier may have it in small towns. Prices range from fifteen dollars per quarter liter to eighty dollars a gallon. One gallon will treat up to fifty thousand liters of water.

3%, 5%, 8% Can be found at most drugstores or pharmacies, prices start at a less than a dollar for a one hundred-ml bottle that will treat one hundred liters.


What to do if you already have root rot

In Soil:

Use peroxide water with an anti-fungicide and a high Phosphate fertilizer (9-45-15, 10-52-10, 0-60-0) for additional root growth. Or any other product with rooting hormone dissolved in it is helpful in re-growing roots and is strongly recommended. Water heavily until liquid pours out the bottom of the pot – this method helps flush out stagnant dead water and replaces it with fresh highly oxygenated water. Don't let plants sit in trays full of water, the soil will absorb this water and stay too wet. Don't water again until the pot feels light and the top inch or two of the soil are dry.


In Hydroponics:

Change your nutrients. Add H2O2 to the system. This will add oxygen and chemically eat dead roots. If roots are badly rotted and can be pulled away by hand, you should cut them off. They are already dead and will only rot, causing further problems. Add a fungicide to kill any fungus that is probably present in the rotted tissue to prevent it from spreading. Increase aeration of the reservoir – add air pumps and stones. An air stone under every plant is usually very effective, but will require a larger air pump. Decrease the reservoir temperature, oxygen dissolves better in cold water and disease causing organisms reproduce slower as well. A good temperate range is 62F to 65F; anything above 70F will eventually cause a problem. It is also a good idea to remove any wilting plants from the system and put them on a separate reservoir so they don't infect plants that are still healthy.


Summary

The key to productive plants is a healthy root system; Hydrogen Peroxide is a great way to keep your roots healthy. It is a must to ensure the biggest best crops possible and to increase the chances of your plants thriving to harvest. Peroxide users will rarely lose plants or crops to root disease and will harvest larger and more consistent crops.

So for my garden I would use this formula:

Metric:
10*L/C= Ml per day

Where:
C= % concentration of H2O2
L= Number of liters in reservoir
G= Number of Gallons in reservoir

10(37.8541/35) = ml per day
=>10(1.0815457143)
==>10.82ml per day should be added to the 10 gallon mix in the res.

I haven't started this regimen yet, but I will when the 35% gets here. Also keep in mind that this information that's been thrown around on the internet for a long time and the quote that I posted was from something 10k saved from when OG was still around. Gotta keep sifting through the piles of data all over the web to find some definitive answers because Boleman posted his H2O2 dosing schedule which shows my res. would need nearly half of what the above formula says. Luckily I'm still only messing with 3% at much lower doses so any damage is minimal.

Thanks for reading amigos,

-djslife
 

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djslife

Active member
What's up IC,

Christmas came early! :xmastree:

I ordered a couple things:

  • Bluelab Truncheon Nutrient Meter
    I decided to bite the bullet and order the Truncheon from Bluelab. It's pricey, but I was dissapointed to see how poor the reliability factor has been for so many growers that I didn't want to risk it.

  • CNZ 800gph Submersible Circulation Wave Maker
    I ended up getting the wave maker because I think the extra circulation couldn't hurt in conjunction with the airpump and H2O2.

Evening numbers as of 9:20pm are:

Truncheon
EC: 1.8
PPM: 900

Hannah Combo Meter
pH: 5.72
Res. Temp: 77.7f
Room Temp: 77.8
Humidity: 48%

I'm going to hold of on installing the CNZ Wave Maker till this weekend, but I think it's going to be a good addition. The Truncheon, on the other hand, was ripped out of it's box, loaded with fresh batteries, and used immediately. This thing is great, doesn't need to be calibrated the same way the Hannah does and is really built for ease of use.

I've been reading more and more about PPMs and EC and it just makes more sense to follow EC directly. If anyone has any reasoning why it would be beneficial to stick with PPMs let me know. I'll probably keep using both, just to see if there's any big differences in numbers.

FtLotG said:
Regarding the watering situation; I think what you are experiencing is a bit of over watering, hence the drooping leaves.

You were right, FtLotG. I cut back the watering from four minutes to one minute and the plants started perking up even more. Thanks for the heads up!

Thanks for reading guys,

-djslife
 

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djslife

Active member
What's up guys, :tiphat:

The numbers as of 7:20pm:

Truncheon
EC: 1.8

Hannah
pH: 5.73
uS: 1730
PPM: 861
Water Temp: 80f
Room Temp: 82f
Humidity: 45%

First day of the new light cycle has gone really well, plants are looking very happy, but my timer failed on me for the water pump. That would also explain why the plants looked overwatered before I reset it. Ultimately it isn't stopping at the programmed stop time and I have no idea why, so I'm back on the hunt for a timer that can handle 1 minute waterings at least 16 times a day.

At any rate, I loosened up the ties around their stems because they're thickening fast. I also decided to throw the wave maker in the res. instead of waiting till this weekend and I'm really happy I did. There's a steady current in there now and I think it's going to help.

Thanks for reading,

-djslife
 

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djslife

Active member
Que pasa IC,

Quick update tonight:

Truncheon
EC: 1.8

Hannah
pH: 5.86
uS: 1741
PPM: 870
Water Temp: 83.5f
Humidity: 35%

Despite the higher temps, the plants are looking great.

Adios,

-djslife
 
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djslife

Active member
Hey Guys,

Tonights numbers:

Truncheon
EC: 1.9

Hannah
pH: 5.96
uS: 1780
PPM: 890
Water Temp: 78f
Room Temp: 78.2f
Humidity: 57%

They're all getting bushy but the back left is taking off. Her trunk is getting pretty thick relative to the other three. I shifted the training wire for the back left, but I removed the training wire from the other three to see how they respond.

Can't wait to see this screen filled out. :dance013:

Adios amigos,

-djslife
 

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