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stealth sealed room for own consume

unnamedmike

unnamedmike

Well-known member
emmm ... i forgot about communicating vessel law and once the water pump is ON, even if you turn it off, the nutrient solution continues flowing. The good thing, I have a solenoid valve at home. The bad thing is for 3/4" pipe and I am using 1/2". Taking advantage of the fact that I have to buy the 3/4" to 1/2" reducers, I can add a 3/4" filter to the circuit, that I also had at home.


In the first test I have seen that the water pump has lot of force for the 24 outputs of the 3 manifold (8 outputs * manifold). The manifolds that I installed are adjustable, I can close the output that I do not use, or regulate the flow of the ones I use, but with the 24 outputs opened at max, each output sends the water to more than half a meter :eek:



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unnamedmike

unnamedmike

Well-known member
Last edited:
unnamedmike

unnamedmike

Well-known member
Fixer said:
What brand of irrigation system are you using? I need to figure that out soon.
Click to expand...


Hi fixer :tiphat: Pipes, connections, glue and sandpaper purchased at hardware stores. Manifold, solenoid valve, thin tube and filter, purchased at home depot. The water pump is an aquarium pump, 2200l. The irrigation controller at now is me, between today and tomorrow I will finished the irrigation controller, I hope xD But a programmable timer do the same work, i use one for years.
I dont gonna use the current solenoid valve, its for gardening and needs a lot of pressure to not reduce the flow too much, my pump is an aquarium pump, has a lot of flow but little pressure.
At moment, the valve is ok, but i don't think i can use the 24 outputs with the current flow. Im going to replace this solenoid valve with an Air release & Vacuum valve (it would be located near the tank to purge the water there) in theory when the circuit is air filled, with pump off, the water flow would stop.
i gonna add a few degrees to the pipes, so that the lowest circuit part is the tank, so that the pipes are emptied into the tank when the pump is turned off and the circuit is air filled.
And if someone is thinking about it, yes, the easiest way would be to put the reservoir on the floor, but i totally refuse :biggrin:


Picture from actual setup with next updates pshop added
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DunHav`nFun

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Hey Mike....that photoshop thingy with the red circle round it I think is a fancy name for an anti-siphon hole to stop the rez from draining itself and flooding everything after the timer turns the pump off.....I always drilled a hole in the pvc right where you have that pc in the pic , but I would pop in a grommet and attach a short piece of feed tube to break the vacuum..... and now....

Inside your rez above solution level but uhderneath the lid , you can install a "tee" plus a short piece coming out of it , and then an elbow pointed back down at solution with a "ball valve/choke valve /control valve whatever it`s called where you are directly above the tee , but it can be outside the rez for easy access , and.....

What this does is create a "bypass" that when the Ball valve is closed off gradually as you find the correct flow and pressure for all your fittings , it blasts the excess pressurized solution back down into the rez , and while helping to control flow and pressure to plantsites , it also oxygenates the rez every time the pump kicks on during each feed sequence.....anyways....

Keep up the good work....Fortune favors the prepared mind.....

Peace....DHF.....:ying: …….
 
Fixer

Fixer

Active member
unnamedmike said:
Hi fixer :tiphat: Pipes, connections, glue and sandpaper purchased at hardware stores. Manifold, solenoid valve, thin tube and filter, purchased at home depot. The water pump is an aquarium pump, 2200l. The irrigation controller at now is me, between today and tomorrow I will finished the irrigation controller, I hope xD But a programmable timer do the same work, i use one for years.
I dont gonna use the current solenoid valve, its for gardening and needs a lot of pressure to not reduce the flow too much, my pump is an aquarium pump, has a lot of flow but little pressure.
At moment, the valve is ok, but i don't think i can use the 24 outputs with the current flow. Im going to replace this solenoid valve with an Air release & Vacuum valve (it would be located near the tank to purge the water there) in theory when the circuit is air filled, with pump off, the water flow would stop.
i gonna add a few degrees to the pipes, so that the lowest circuit part is the tank, so that the pipes are emptied into the tank when the pump is turned off and the circuit is air filled.
And if someone is thinking about it, yes, the easiest way would be to put the reservoir on the floor, but i totally refuse :biggrin:


Picture from actual setup with next updates pshop added
View Image
Click to expand...




Doing it the hard way. A man after my own heart! :woohoo:
 
unnamedmike

unnamedmike

Well-known member
DunHav`nFun said:
Hey Mike....that photoshop thingy with the red circle round it I think is a fancy name for an anti-siphon hole to stop the rez from draining itself and flooding everything after the timer turns the pump off.....I always drilled a hole in the pvc right where you have that pc in the pic , but I would pop in a grommet and attach a short piece of feed tube to break the vacuum..... and now....

Inside your rez above solution level but uhderneath the lid , you can install a "tee" plus a short piece coming out of it , and then an elbow pointed back down at solution with a "ball valve/choke valve /control valve whatever it`s called where you are directly above the tee , but it can be outside the rez for easy access , and.....

What this does is create a "bypass" that when the Ball valve is closed off gradually as you find the correct flow and pressure for all your fittings , it blasts the excess pressurized solution back down into the rez , and while helping to control flow and pressure to plantsites , it also oxygenates the rez every time the pump kicks on during each feed sequence.....anyways....

Keep up the good work....Fortune favors the prepared mind.....

Peace....DHF.....
Click to expand...
Thank you very very much for the idea and for the instructions:tiphat: . I already bought the filling/release valve, but I like your suggestion more, the valve spits some water when the circuit is filled, your system is cleaner.



peace bro :ying:
 
unnamedmike

unnamedmike

Well-known member
Some sensors were giving strange errors, for that i changed the controller circuit from protoboard to breadboard, now all work perfect. I also redo and re calibrated the co2/temp/humidity sensor board.

And im adding radio communication, so no hanging wires between the controller and the other areas. The first slave controller goonna be the irrigation controller, with radio communication with the current master controller.


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unnamedmike

unnamedmike

Well-known member
I removed the solenoid valve and added the modifications suggested by DunHav`nFun and the system work like a charm, thanks again mate :tiphat:

I removed too the air pump. Now is less energy waste, the nutrient solution is mixed / oxygenated strongly in each irrigation without the air pump lowering the ph (1000ppm CO2 in that room) and i can set the water flow.


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DunHav`nFun

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Yeah.....I thought you`d figure out the air pump`s no longer needed once that bypass is employed , and I wasn`t about to say anything such as fucking with PH , as that`s better found out the hard way , and you found it early on.....and hey....

That bypass is courtesy of my oldest and dearest growbro Legend of UK growers , Heath Robinson....sure miss him on the boards.....anyways.....carry on and keep up the killer job Mike.....

Peace.....DHF.....:ying: …...
 
unnamedmike

unnamedmike

Well-known member
DunHav`nFun said:
Yeah.....I thought you`d figure out the air pump`s no longer needed once that bypass is employed , and I wasn`t about to say anything such as fucking with PH , as that`s better found out the hard way , and you found it early on.....and hey....
That bypass is courtesy of my oldest and dearest growbro Legend of UK growers , Heath Robinson....sure miss him on the boards.....anyways.....carry on and keep up the killer job Mike.....
Peace.....DHF..... …...
Click to expand...


Peace to you too, mate
ying.gif
 
unnamedmike

unnamedmike

Well-known member
Fixer said:
How's the system running unnamedmike?
Click to expand...


Hey mate :tiphat:
The DunHav`nFun and HeathRobinson`s bypass works like a charm.


The filter ... I have to clean it every 7 days, clog with very fine dust and it makes mud, that reduces the flow a bit (my pump has low pressure, it is an aquarium pump) Im modifying the system to clean the filter without disassembling anything. If water flows in watering opposite direction, the mud is completely detached from the filter. My idea is to let osmosis water flow in the opposite direction to the usual irrigation. Pumped RO water enter in the filter outlet and drain from the filter inlet, with the help of two solenoid valves.

After a few days programming, smoking and drinking coffee, finally the master controller communicates wireless bi-directionally with the slave controllers, in this first case, with the irrigation controller, now im able to auto watering thanks to this irrigation slave.



Controller (v3.20) prototype in breadboard

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Irrigation slave controller, breadboard prototype

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Actual controller v3.1

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Fixer

Fixer

Active member
I know that they back flush diatomaceous earth filters for pools to clean them. You'd just need a way to drain the sludge out of your system.
 
unnamedmike

unnamedmike

Well-known member
Love&Peace said:
What kind of controller are you using?
Click to expand...
Hey Love&Peace, nice of you to stop by :tiphat: The controller is a DIY board, arduino based. Clock, calendar, timers, datalogging, strain profiles, watering, AC and dehumidifier control, wireless communication, Co2, EC, ph, all for a few dollars (when finally end the prototype phase :biggrin:)
 
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