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Van, S. Surrey, White Rock AAAA

beanjas

Member
So what is your solution ... your too sophisticated for your own good ... you ever read some of your shit. So what approach would YOU use .. come on
 
speaking only for myself, I have never had powdery mildew in over 30 years of growing.
I've had various molds outdoor in mountain plots but that's a different thing.
Spend the money to build a proper room with correct filtration of incoming air, treat your growspace like a lab and don't waste your time on other people's clones. If you do want someone else's clone, have a space quarantined for the practice of tissue culture cleansing to remove all unwanted nasties.
don't get powdery mildew in the first place is the way I see it. It is a totally preventable garden plague.
My rooms are sealed 100%, intakes have filters and ozone at 4% to a lung room, then through a carbon filter for each room. Silicone joint FRP panel over thin rubber vapor barrier walls and ceiling. Sealed 1pc vinyl floor with silicone rubber moldings. Central floor drain.
I can remove the equipment and pressure wash the room if I need too.
regardless, provide a lung room environment where PM can't survive and keep optimal plant health and you can not have PM for 30+ years too :D
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Ditto.

I've sprayed everything from soda and milk up to Nova. It's all a stop gap for shitty genetics, poor cultural practices and substandard environments.

The thing about claims is proof to back them up. Which I don't see here but there is an overwhelming body of evidence that none of the various types of powdery mildew are systemic.

I believe you can edit posts now. Turboposting is deep into crank territory.
 

beanjas

Member
Actually KILLING powdery mildew
Powdery Mildew (PM) is a problem coming from within an infected plant. What you are seeing (the white powderey looking substance) on the leaves is the flowering body of the fungus- the hyphae live within the plant. By the time you can visually identify the problem it's already well established within the plant. No external treatment (like sulphur) can fix the problem.

PM proliferates in shaded and low-light areas of gardens where the humidity is raised; obviously countering these grow room conditions will slow the spread but it won't truly eliminate the fugus from the plants.

The same is true for sulphur applications; be it from a sulphur burner or from a solution such as Safer's Defender. Sulphur will prevent the growth of PM where it is present on the leaf, but the PM still exists within the plant.... not to mention sulphur applications negatively affect the taste of the final product; it seems to concentrate on the resins and an experienced or trained palate will always be able to tell if there was sulphur applied to the plants from how the hash smokes. I don't recommend using sulphur on vegging for flower or flowering plants

There is a product called Meltatox that is designed for application on ornamentals which gets into the plant and actually kills the PM. You should not spray this on plants that are going to be put into flower, or are in flowering. However, IMO it can safely be used to treat your veg state plants to eliminate the PM from your stock. I would suggest waiting at least 4 weeks before taking clones to be put into a veg/flower cycle.

Of course the MSDS is available online and anyone considering using the product should completely read the label instructions to inform themselves about the factors involved, how to properly spray and what precautions to take, the product half-life, etc before considering using.

It does work IME, and can be used as a part of a integrated approach that not only deals with eliminating all traces of spores from the growroom, but also removing the fungus from the plants themselves. Having either infected plants OR a spore infected growroom will ensure the problem persists as one will infect the other.

I would remove the plants, clean the room with industrial greenhouse cleaner, and use a sulphur burner before putting the plants back in the room. Then separately cut back the mothers and sterilize with Meltatox. If the plants are for consumption I'd then wait a month before getting back on schedule to take clones and veg out for the next crop... any remaining Meltatox in the plants would be negligible.

This product is not for everyone and is not safe to spray on flowering plants for consumption. I only recommend it's use to those that will use it responsibly and make themselves aware of the MSDS information available before choosing to use it.

-Chimera
 
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beanjas

Member
I was wrong to write that it is systemic, technically it's not... poor choice of words - but it does live within the plant as described, the hyphae actually penetrate into the leaf. At that point sulphur has an effect equal to the square root of fuckall.

What we see in PM is the fruiting body of the fungus. I think I also mentioned in that thread, that the copied post was a cut and paste from another discussion elsewhere on the net, so a little out of context. No excuses, what I wrote was wrong I'm the first to admit that.... PM doesn't move within the phloem of the plant as a systemic disease.

UC Davis has the best IPM information website I've seen, I suggest everyone bookmark it and keep it in mind for use later if running into pest or disease problems.

https://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/QT/powderymildewcard.html

As c-ray showed, John McP's Hemp Pests and Diseases is THE pest reference book for canna... he is truly one of the intellituati in our field - if you are serious about growing get a copy, not an easy read-though, but worth its weight in gold, especially as a reference

https://www.amazon.ca/Hemp-Diseases-P.../dp/0851994547

HiFi, I have a very sensitive palate and can detect flavour nuances that most people can't - I've had more than one chemist tell me 'you can't tell which dominant terpenes are present in a flower sample; you need a GC to tell you that'... but I can. I've spent hours gently smelling pure terpene standards and mixing my own concoctions to spike onto (almost) pure THC to understand the effects of given terps (thanks Sam).... I don't like my hash to taste like burnt matches, so for me sulphur during flowering is a non sequitor. Yes it works if the infection was not present before you start to fog sulphur, but it ruins the flowers.

I'd rather carefully and responsibly use something like Meltatox or Myclobutanyl (Nova) to clean infected plants and get the environment and plant health back in shape before flower. Yes things like Serenade also work (Bacillus subtilis), but they can create positives for bacterial contamination if your medicine is being tested for bacterial colony counts (CFU), or detection of microoragnisms by PCR. I very rarely use either Mtox or Nova, but if PM breaks out on valuable mother breeding stock that I perpetuate in a living library, then it gets cleaned- and the problem gets dealt with.

You can talk all you want about contamination of my flowers, but I have the analytical equipment and we've run many, many time course assays to see what shows up as remnants after spraying multiple different types of biocides and their metabolites... are you doing this? I've used this screen name since I began posting online almost 18 years ago... and as you can see my posts come back up for discussion and re-dissection. Guys like you change identities like a snake shedding skin. Pretty easy to come-back as someone new... I stand by what I've written... quickly approaching 20 years later....

Happy New years 2015 all, hope your gardens stay PM free, and that your nugs and resins don't taste like burnt matches... I can't think of a bigger insult to the terpenic symphony the plant has created to heal us...

-Chimera
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