Compost Tea Areated

I am on my third batch of compost tea for flower. My teas are for root feeding only. I suspend the bag of nutrients half way deep in my water reservoir with a air stone inside. I put a few other stones inside to give the water a nice boiling effect and works just like its supposed to.
My questions are: Why are you supposed to even use the bag in the first place? Wouldn't just mixing your nutrients and dumping them in the water be more effective in leaching these nutrients into the water? It seems that the bag (i am using stockings) constricts the nutrients in the center of the bag making the water/air harder to reach. Wouldn't it be better just to mix the contents of the water and slurry on the bottom of the reservoir and feed the plants that way? That way the plant would receive some healthy top soil and get fed at the same time?
Why use a bag at all?

I think the stocking is for folks that are in Veg and would like to use a spray bottle to foliar feed keeping small particles from getting lodged and preventing use of sprayer. I do not use a bag and use a 5gallon bucket and scoop out my tea with a solo cup. I use the remaining material at the bottom of bucket for outside plants/garden. What are you putting in your tea?

People use bags so the tea isn't trashy. Instead of a bag I dump it all together, brew, then pour it into a 5 gal bucket thru a 200 micron strainer.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=10878&gclid=CIOvvOPmwtECFU9efgodoo4N_A

I do it this way because I think it processes the dry materials better. Pouring it on the plants without straining has seriously screwed with the drainage of my medium. Good luck. -granger

I don't use bags anymore either. Got sick of cleaning them. I fill a small amount of water into the 5gal bucket and then dump my dry goods in so it doesn't stick to the bottom or anything. I then continue to fill the bucket with desired h2o. Brew the tea and then scoop liquid out with a 1 liter watering pitcher. The remaining solids are scooped from the bottom of the bucket and thrown into compost. I've also top dressed with the remaining solids depending on life cycle or plant conditions.

I used cheese cloth, but the filters at the website provided by granger2
are much neater, no fuss, no muss.

I am using soil, high Phos bat guano, sea bird guano, worm castings, fish bone meal, kelp meal, and molasses. All products by Down to earth. Thus far the plants have responded very well. Any tips would help...

I think your way sounds more logical. better saturation of the material. I am going to cut the bag do it your way for now on. Makes more sense. Thanks

Granger2 said:

People use bags so the tea isn't trashy. Instead of a bag I dump it all together, brew, then pour it into a 5 gal bucket thru a 200 micron strainer.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=10878&gclid=CIOvvOPmwtECFU9efgodoo4N_A

I do it this way because I think it processes the dry materials better. Pouring it on the plants without straining has seriously screwed with the drainage of my medium. Good luck. -granger

Click to expand...

I am a bag user! LOL
It keeps my tea bucket much cleaner and my air stones last longer.
I prefer keeping things like compost ,WC, things that I add for the bacterial life they bring to a good tea in 1 gallon paint strainers.
I opine that the wrong type of bag can restrict this life from inhabiting your tea's.
Nylon socks is one of those.
If I clean this strainer out promptly its no big deal if i let it sit around a few days it does become nasty.
Most teas that I make is for the beasties that a actively aerated teas bring more then introducing more of a feeding.
I prefer top dressing every 10-14 days over to keeping what the plants want available over putting them into a tea.
Now I do add some nutrients mostly for the beasties that cleave from the particular element that i want my plants to uptake.
I can see a symbiotic relationship with the bacterial life eating on the top dressing and crapping out 70% of what they eat as root friendly and ready for immediate uptake.
Ratz

I like brewing tea without the bag. I keep it stirred up so much of the sediment goes into the plant. But having said that you have to watch dosing the last plant too much of a concentrate. I killed a plant once that way.
You can get a niffty 5 gallon paint strainer at a paint store. They fit right over a 5 gal. Bucket,easy to clean,just pour right through it.
The top of the soil does kind of cake up. I usually loosen the soil before I feed.
I feed the dreggs along with any trimmings to my worms. They love it.

This stuff has all been posted previously.

http://www.microbeorganics.com/#More_on_Compost_Tea_2013_

Mesh Bag or Free Suspension:

This is another decision when making ACT or designing an ACT maker. Do I throw the [vermi]compost into the water and let it float around or do I put it in a mesh extractor bag of some kind?

There are pros for both. Generally one gets a higher density of microorganisms if you just dump all your ingredients into the aerated, agitated water. I have observed over and over microscopically that this is the case. If you are using this method with an ACT design which circulates the water through a pipe like an airlift be aware that big chunks will plug up the pipe. Use fine [vermi]compost for this.

ACT made this way is most appropriate for applying to your soil but what if one wishes to spray it onto leaves? Perhaps you are trying to combat powdery mildew. Perhaps you want to run your ACT through an irrigation system.

This is when you are perhaps going to consider using a mesh bag. I researched many different mesh openings and materials before concluding that a 400 micron monofilament nylon mesh is the best for an extractor bag. This is also the size recommended by SFI. This is what we provide with our 50 gallon airlift brewer (as an optional configuration).

If you cannot find the perfect 400 micron mesh bag, don’t sweat it. Just get a paint strainer from the hardware store and tie it off with the ingredients and airline in it. Please do not use nylon socks/stockings. These usually have too small a mesh size to extract fungal hyphae (unless they are recycled from your 400 pound grandmother). Many people argue for using these by saying ‘hey man how big do ya think bacteria are?’ My reply to that is ‘hey man, bacteria is only one component of ACT’ What about the protozoa besides the fungi already mentioned?

If one does use a mesh extractor it is essential to either use a smaller (e.g. 5 gal) ACT maker which has enough agitation to make that bag dance or to use an air (diffuser) input into the bag.

If you have a cone bottom airlift bioreactor and you wish to use a mesh extractor, I recommend using a separate air pump to supply the bag.

I prefer to use a diffuser in the bag but many just use an open airline. I’m a believer in using what you have (except for chemicals). If you use a mesh bag you do not need to worry about a few large chunks. Many people make good quality ACT this way.

Filtering;

There is another option. Say you have an airlift vortex ACT bioreactor but to run it with a mesh bag would be kinda silly. You want to run it through a sprayer or irrigation set up. If your unit has a drain valve/spout, then just put a pail under it with a piece of mesh tied across the top. For this we use nylon window screen (800 to 1000 microns mesh size). Because some residue will block the passage we do not want to use 400 microns for this. Open the valve and as organic matter builds up on the screen scoop it off into another bucket. This prevents a build up which will block microbes but also allows you to save the ones that do get blocked, along with the organic matter for topdressing your soil or throwing into the compost pile. You can obviously see why a filter internal to a pipe or hose just won’t work.

Okay, I know that sounds like work. There is another way…the way we do it. Just empty out your ACT maker into the pail, use a mesh bag (800 to 1000 microns) with a sump pump dropped into it, hook the sump pump to a hose. There is your sprayer or waterer or irrigation hookup. When we don’t care about getting residue on leaf surfaces, like our corn or the lawn, we use a trash sump pump with no bag and a thumb over the end of the hose.

**************************************************
200 microns is too small in my opinion and experience.

**********************************************

The first video has a commercial aspect but shows how to use a paint strainer in 5 gallon bucket,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac29ZfvMjmo

This video shows how to filter a large amount with a submersible pump.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNwl7BLbLlY

Just picked up TeaLab's 400 micron 5gal size 9"x15"(i think..) compost brew bag.

Seems to be working just fine on a 2.5 gal batch of EWC (1/2 cup). Plenty of room for more. Some fine sediment escaping the bag.

jeeperscreepers said:

I am on my third batch of compost tea for flower. My teas are for root feeding only. I suspend the bag of nutrients half way deep in my water reservoir with a air stone inside. I put a few other stones inside to give the water a nice boiling effect and works just like its supposed to.
My questions are: Why are you supposed to even use the bag in the first place? Its not entirely necessary in my experience. Wouldn't just mixing your nutrients and dumping them in the water be more effective in leaching these nutrients into the water? Yes they will leach, the effectiveness will likely be about the same. A problem would be settling on the bottom, which as you said you would just remix up the slurry and feed. I will do this, though my slurry is generally just EWC/compost and no other nutes, maybe kelp. I've done guano too, but I never teabag, and things work fine, I will use a stick and mix up the settlement on the bottom about 3 or 6 times a day during the brewing process, or as I remember to do it, to keep things going and not let it settle all the time. It seems that the bag (i am using stockings) constricts the nutrients in the center of the bag making the water/air harder to reach. Wouldn't it be better just to mix the contents of the water and slurry on the bottom of the reservoir and feed the plants that way? That way the plant would receive some healthy top soil and get fed at the same time?
Why use a bag at all? The bag is optional, what you are doing is just fine.. What you could also do is somewhat dilute your tea/slurry mix as well with fresh water, say half and half, and that will work fine and you will get more out of it, and ensure against adding in too many nutrients, which in this regard you are essentially adding a slurry of a top dress.

Click to expand...

purr!

Tea Recipies

Tea Recipies

I started out with this handy Guide from Scott ar NFTG




Tea Recipes:
Even though you are running Nectar, we still would like to see the addition of a compost tea,
microbial tea or some form of microbial inoculate to speed up the chelation process. The
microbes will aid in breaking down the calcium bonds and make those portions and elements
available through microbial digestion. Compost tea is probably the easiest (and most affordable)
way to add billions of aerobic microbes to your soil. However, if you make compost tea with a
poor quality compost, you will have poor quality compost tea. Compost tea should ONLY be
made with the highest grade of compost. Therefore, I suggest that you make your compost teas
using Grain Fed Worm Castings® to ensure a very high quality tea. NO tea will EVER be any
better than the quality of the compost microbiology you start with.
Do all NFTG Growers use Teas? No. Some use bottled and pre-packaged inoculants. However,
to get a better idea of the advantages of teas, note that a teaspoon of quality compost contains
about one billion beneficial microscopic organisms and a teaspoon of organic tea is populated by
a field of about four billion organisms. Your plants will benefit immediately from teas. Think of
teas as organic steroids for your plants. Teas are not only beneficial for your plant roots, but also
for leaves. Foliar feeding teas adds additional benefits of a microbial coating on the leaf when
you spray it. This basically muscles out any bad microbes. Some growers dilute their tea
mixtures for foliar applications, while others insist that they foliar with full strength Be sure to
cover at least 70% of the leaf surface with the tea-spray, ensuring that you get both the tops and
bottoms.
“Not all of these benefits will be observed in every case of tea application, perhaps because the
compost did not contain the necessary organisms. The necessary organisms may not have been
Sunday, January 8, 2017 Page 65
extracted from the compost, or did not grow in the tea or may have been killed during removal
from the compost or during the growth process. Other reasons for lack of the necessary
organisms in the tea may be that toxic materials were leached from poor compost, or the
compost became anaerobic and killed the aerobes during the brewing cycle, or some other factor
was not optimal.” – Elaine Ingham
The downside to Compost Tea is that you have to make it yourself, you have to plan ahead, you
must ensure that your equipment and environment run at optimal levels and you must
clean/sanitize equipment after brewing and prior to the next brew cycle. Any human error in
measuring, brewing, equipment or ingredients may possibly affect your crop for the worse. Some
of this can be remedied by using “burn-neutral” ingredients (like earthworm castings, kelp,
molasses etc). Also, some of the things you need might not be available at your local hydro store
and you may need to do some shopping around. If this makes you uncomfortable, then it’s
seriously worth considering a premixed solution. Supreme Growers makes effective and easy
instant compost teas. These are kelp and molasses based powders that fully dissolve in water
becoming active instantly. Their products include a mycorrhizae transplant tea, a vegetative
compost tea, a blooming/fruiting tea along with a few other products. No other equipment to buy,
just stir and pour. Have a look at the ‘plays nicely with Nectar’ list of companies at the bottom of
this guide for details about Supreme Growers products.
If you’ve read this far, then you are interested in making your own teas. Let’s start with some
tips.
TIPS:
• Avoid using socks or pillowcases for straining/brewing, since their fibers are too tight
and will likely filter out your fungi when straining your tea. When filtering your tea, be
sure you screen it as close to 400 microns as possible. Paint strainers, from your local
hardware store, work quite well for this function.
• The brewing process takes about 24 hours and requires application within 4 hours after
aeration is complete. Brew for 24 - 30 Hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. If colder brew for 30-34 hours if warmer brew for 20-30
hours.
• Water - all recipes should use either ditch water, rain water, distilled or
dechlorinated/chloramine free water. If using chlorinated water run the air pump for an
hour or two to release any chlorine in the water. Avoid the use of reverse osmosis (RO)
Water and Soft water w/o nitrates, both of which have been shown to have very low
fungal numbers after brewing.
• Blackstrap Molasses - An excellent source of potassium and magnesium during
flowering; Be sure to use only unsulfured molasses. This is because sulfur kills microbial
life, especially fungus.
• Grain Fed Worm Castings - Worm Castings, by themselves are amazing. They are highly
biologically active and they also have trace minerals (that are in a form immediately
available to plants). There are enzymes, nematodes, humic acid, and other organic matter
within them as well. Earthworm castings concentrate nutrients, which is why they are so
popular with organic gardeners. They contain 10 times more potassium, 5 times more
Sunday, January 8, 2017 Page 66
nitrogen, 7 times more phosphorus, 3 times more magnesium, 1.5 times more calcium,
and 1.4 times more humus than the soil that went into the worm.
• Mycorrhizal fungi – “Do not add myco products prior to brewing. These fungi do not
grow in tea solutions, although spores and hyphae will be extracted into the solution from
the compost. The heating process during composting often kills the spores, so although
present, they will not be viable. It is usually of some benefit to add an inoculum of
mycorrhizal spores to the final tea solution when the tea is to be used for soil drench or
root applications. The food resources present in tea may cause mycorrhizal spores to
germinate after a few days, but if the germinated spores do not find active roots within 24
to 48 hours of germination, they will die. Therefore, spores should be added to the tea
just before application to the crop, not at the beginning of a tea brew.” – Elaine Ingham
• You need to add foods to feed the bacteria and fungi so that they can grow when they
have been extracted from the compost. Different foods feed bacteria and fungi. Bacteria
prefer the simple sugars (molasses), whereas the fungus prefer more complex
sugars/carbohydrates derived from various organic matter (fish hydrolysate and humic
substances). Be sure to use the correct sugars/carbs for your brew. And, of course, putting
too much food/ingredients in the water can keep the water from reaching the MINIMUM
8ppm level.
• Very Important! Add nothing with a preservative or antibiotic in it!
• If the compost tea foams excessively you can add a small amount of cooking oil.
• The finished compost tea should be used within 4-5 hours before the microbes use up all
the oxygen and it goes anaerobic. If you cannot apply the tea for any reason, simply run
the aerator for a few minutes every hour until the tea is applied. If applying bacterial or
fungal additives follow the instructions on the pack.
Ingredient Feeds Ingredient Feeds
Fish Emulsion Bacteria Kelp Bacteria/Fungi
White Sugar Bacteria Rock Dusts Bacteria/Fungi
Corn Syrup Bacteria Humic Acids Bacteria/Fungi
Maple Syrup Bacteria Fish Hydrolysate Fungi/Bacteria
Cane Sugar Bacteria Ground Oatmeal Fungi
Molasses Bacteria/Fungi Yucca Fungi
Fruit Pulp Bacteria/Fungi Soybean Meal Fungi
All recipes below are based on 4 Gallons of water using a percentage of ingredients: 2.38%
Grain Fed Worm Castings, 0.50% blackstrap molasses (use no more than 0.75%), 0.063% fish
hydrolysate, 0.19%-0.25% (MAX) Kelp Meal, 0.063% soft rock phosphate powder (grind
granules in a coffee grinder). There is no guarantee that your compost tea brewing will be
successful using these recipes and ingredients. More details @ http://www.microbeorganics.com/
One trick you can use is pre-feeding or pre-activating Compost which is not so fresh by mixing
in a small amount of wheat bran and moistening with very diluted black strap molasses, loosely
covered with cloth or paper towel 24 hours ahead of starting brewing. (approximate ratios, ½
Tablespoon of wheat bran per cup of Compost.) Mix the Blackstrap Molasses at 1.5 ml to 1
quart of water prior to moistening. If you have bokashi, you can mix it at the same rate as the
Sunday, January 8, 2017 Page 67
wheat bran, and moisten with water. This mixture is said to decrease the brewing times from 36
to 24 hours.
Believe it or not, the Basic, Starting-point and possibly the Balanced Nutrient Cycling Compost
Tea recipe tea are likely the safest teas you can brew. The two simple recipes, if using an
efficient tea maker and good quality compost will result in a microbial population perfect for
growing with Nectar. This is not to say that the other recipes aren’t beneficial, but without a
microscope to verify, it’s mostly a guessing game. You want the tea to have an earthy aroma, if
it smells putrid with foul odors (signaling that the tea has gone anaerobic), then you will want to
start over.
Basic, Starting-point, Bacterial Compost Tea (5 gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 gallons of water to allow for foaming
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or high quality compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to
clog the compost tea brewer.
2.5 ounce unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Balanced Nutrient Cycling Compost Tea (5 gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 gallons of water to allow for foaming
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or high quality compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to
clog the compost tea brewer.
10 ml Neptune Harvest Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer
2 teaspoons Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *: Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow
on it. Also a prime source for phosphorous, magnesium & sulfur.
*begin brewing, and check for extraction of the compost (brown color released into brew before
adding molasses or kelps). Addition of kelp adds micronutrients and some bacterial as well as
fungal food.
2.5 ounce unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Kelp Meal
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Ultimate Compost Tea (5 gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 gallons of water to allow for foaming
Sunday, January 8, 2017 Page 68
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or Bu's Blend Biodynamic Compost or high quality
compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to clog the compost tea brewer.
½ cup fungal-dominated compost (mushroom compost)
1.5 ounce unsulfured black-strap molasses
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Down to Earth Kelp Meal
1 ounce Humic acids
10 ml Neptune Harvest Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer
2 teaspoons Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *: Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow
on it. Also a prime source for phosphorous, magnesium & sulfur.
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Vegetative Stage Recipes
Veg Tea (Equal Ratio of Fungi to Bacteria) #1 (5 Gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 Gallons of water to allow for foaming
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or Bu's Blend Biodynamic Compost or high quality
compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to clog the compost tea brewer.
10ml Humic acids
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Down to Earth Kelp Meal
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Veg Tea #2 (5 Gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 Gallons of water to allow for foaming
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings
10 ml Neptune Harvest Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer
2.5 ounces unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Veg Tea #3 – (5 Gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 Gallons of water to allow for foaming
3 cups Alaska Humus Soil Amendment (Bountea, Ancient Forest, Denali Gold or other) in a 400
micron nylon mesh filter bag
10 ml Neptune Harvest Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer
100 ml of BioAg Ful-Power
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Down to Earth Kelp Meal
Sunday, January 8, 2017 Page 69
2.5 ounces unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Flowering Stage Recipes
Flower Tea #1 – (5 Gal)
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or Bu's Blend Biodynamic Compost or high quality
compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to clog the compost tea brewer.
4 teaspoons High Phosphorous Fossilized Seabird Guano (0-9-0)
20 ml Poseidonzime (liquid kelp) or 2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Down to Earth Kelp Meal
2 teaspoons Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate
2.5 ounces unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
Brew for 24 - 30 Hours at between 60 and 80 degrees F for optimal results. If colder brew for 30-
34 hours if warmer brew for 20-30 hours.
Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle, you can add Photosynthesis
Plus or Supreme Growers or SLF-100 or any other Nectar Nutrient
Flowering Tea #2 – Fungal Dominant (5 Gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 Gallons of water to allow for foaming
3 cups Alaska Humus Soil Amendment (Bountea, Ancient Forest, Denali Gold or other) in a 400
micron nylon mesh filter bag
10 ml Neptune Harvest Hydrolyzed fish Fertilizer (2-4-1)
100 ml of BioAg Ful-Power
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Kelp Meal
2.5 ounces unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses
¾ cup to 1 cup of Ground/Powdered, 100% Natural rolled oats.
Approximately 3 days prior to brewing, grow the fungi to give them a 'head start' and allow
populations to multiply. To do this moisten the Alaska Humus (just damp, not dripping wet).
Grind up some simple proteins (fungal foods), such as oatmeal, oat bran, soybean meal or
powdered malt that has been run through a coffee grinder, and mix them in with the moistened
compost. The mixed ratio should be about 3-4 Tablespoons of fungal food per cup of Humus.
Place the mix in a light-resistant container, cover partially with a lid (leave it cracked at the very
least so it's not airtight), and then place in a warm, dark area. A seed-germinating mat placed
beneath the container will help this process along. After about 3 days at 80 F, you'll remove the
lid, and find a good bit of fungal mycelia (Santa’s Beard) throughout the compost. You can now
use this compost to brew your fungal tea. Discontinue brewing around 24 hours. Very easy once
you do it one time, and the plants love it.
Flowering Tea #3 (5 gal) – Fungal Dominant
1 cup of Grain Fed Worm Castings or Bu's Blend Biodynamic Compost or high quality compost
in a 400 micron bag so as not to clog the compost tea brewer.
Sunday, January 8, 2017 Page 70
1 cup Mushroom Compost
3 to 4 ounces Ground/Powdered, 100% Natural rolled oats.
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Down to Earth Kelp Meal.
2 teaspoons Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *: Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow
on it. Also a prime source for phosphorous, magnesium & sulfur.
The earthworm castings, mushroom compost and kelp meal are first mixed together and made
moist. Mix in the powdered/ground up oatmeal and after about 3 days at 80 F the fungal mycelia
has grown on this blend and is ready for brewing. Place it in your tea bubbler for 24 hours with
some additional liquid (or water soluble) kelp/seaweed extract and Micronized (soft) rock

Levit: What you posted is a hodge podge of stuff from Elaine Ingham and me. It is much too confused to be of use.

Indeed it is a snippet from Scott O's How to use NFTG Guide
I just cut a bit out for people to see.

Happy to send you a copy if you have not seen it.

No disrespect meant towards your work.

It is Top Shelf knowledge which is appreciated.

Levitationofme said:

I started out with this handy Guide from Scott ar NFTG

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=69276&pictureid=1696473&thumb=1]View Image[/url]


Tea Recipes:
Even though you are running Nectar, we still would like to see the addition of a compost tea,
microbial tea or some form of microbial inoculate to speed up the chelation process. The
microbes will aid in breaking down the calcium bonds and make those portions and elements
available through microbial digestion. Compost tea is probably the easiest (and most affordable)
way to add billions of aerobic microbes to your soil. However, if you make compost tea with a
poor quality Oatmeal Fungi
Molasses Bacteria/Fungi Yucca Fungi
Fruit Pulp Bacteria/Fungi Soybean Meal Fungi
All recipes below are based on 4 Gallons of water using a percentage of ingredients: 2.38%
Grain Fed Worm Castings, 0.50% blackstrap molasses (use no more than 0.75%), 0.063% fish
hydrolysate, 0.19%-0.25% (MAX) Kelp Meal, 0.063% soft rock phosphate powder (grind
granules in a coffee grinder). There is no guarantee that your compost tea brewing will be
successful using these recipes and ingredients. More details @ http://www.microbeorganics.com/
One trick you can use is pre-feeding or pre-activating Compost which is not so fresh by mixing
in a small you will want to
start over.
Basic, Starting-point, Bacterial Compost Tea (5 gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 gallons of water to allow for foaming
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or high quality compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to
clog the compost tea brewer.
2.5 ounce unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Balanced Nutrient Cycling Compost Tea (5 gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 gallons of water to allow for foaming
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or high quality compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to
clog the compost tea brewer.
10 ml Neptune Harvest Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer
2 hours with
some additional liquid (or water soluble) kelp/seaweed extract and Micronized (soft) rock

Click to expand...

This is a complete mess. If you are going to "contribute" by simply copy and pasting other peoples words, at least clean it up. I can't stand it when I ask for advice and someone just does a Google search copy and paste. Especially since microbeman has already commented on this. Your post is kinda irrelevant.

I strain it for use indoors and as a foliar. I go bag free for outdoor and just dump the chunks on the top of the pots. It's not a lot of material actually after it has been diluted down.

Levitationofme said:

No disrespect meant towards your work.

It is Top Shelf knowledge which is appreciated.

Click to expand...

No worries with that....just that this guy has just jumbled a bunch of stuff from the internet and called it his.

Elaine and I have many opinions which are differing. She says not to use molasses (these days) and I advocate it, etc and on and on,

To put information garnered from us into the same document without delineation is a little, well...dopey. Not you but the author.

in any case I appreciate the work done. I am no biologist, and have no degrees or even real experience in botany but I am fairly intelligent and have enough education to be truly dangerous.

Some say start the EWC in a jar with some food and a little water in a jar first, some say NO! My grow is too small for any real tests.

I only grow for my head, it's all a labor of love. I have plenty of good smoke now and I am always looking for a way to up my game.

The constant conflicting information and downright misinformation is really part of the fun. Frustrating as it may be.

I will check out more of your posts.