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Im having problems making biochar
- Thread starter 'Boogieman'
- Start date
'Boogieman'
Well-known member
It looks easy enough too make except for the middle barrel that was altered, drill holes on the bottom and put on bricks with gaps so air flows from the bottom up. Just need to figure out that adapter piece.
My biggest worry is having a bunch of barrels that rust and other toxic elements that could get into my biochar. Do you have a recommended material I can build something similar with that will not rust or add toxic elements into my biochar?
AgentPothead
Just this guy, ya know?
As far as I know, rust, aka iron oxide III, isn't toxic. I would be more worried about what was stored in the barrels before, than the barrel itself. If you could source fresh barrels would be the best, but also way more expensive if I had to guess.
Rico Swazi
Active member
the reason I linked to the instuctables was it uses only one barrel . reinforcing that mantra of less is more
I have a good friend, paraplegic, that is able to do the process without outside help from his chair. He uses a 35 gal can instead of 55 gal as its easier to move
been my take that most people growing organic/natural do it because it is the right thing and not because it is easy.
I have a good friend, paraplegic, that is able to do the process without outside help from his chair. He uses a 35 gal can instead of 55 gal as its easier to move
been my take that most people growing organic/natural do it because it is the right thing and not because it is easy.
Clearing is likely how the char was added originally to the terra preta beds. Good method if you have an actual farm. Lots of people who cook with wood and charcoal are enjoying extended lives using the efficient metal burners. Good point about the paint. Same thing when breaking in a wood heater.
If one wishes, there are unpainted barrels available new for an expense. I just purchased barrels through Craigslist or used from the feed store or at the junk yard. We usually rotated a new (to us) barrel on a fire to burn off the paint. There are better (for the environment) ways to do this I'm sure. I've not seen barrels made from galvanized steel.
As you can see from the photos we used heavy steel with a 55 gallon barrel inside. Not the best. I never got around to implementing the method in the video but using the smaller sized barrel as chimney is clever. The adapted portion could be created with drill and saw or snips. I'm not sure what blower one member referenced. Maybe they called that portion a blower in the video.
I would think the barrels would last relatively long. I can't speak to that set up but I've used one burning barrel for 10 years.
If you decide on the pit method, as was pointed out, use dry wood and keep knocking it down as you go. Contrary to what some biochar experts claim, I think smaller branches is best.
As you can see from the photos we used heavy steel with a 55 gallon barrel inside. Not the best. I never got around to implementing the method in the video but using the smaller sized barrel as chimney is clever. The adapted portion could be created with drill and saw or snips. I'm not sure what blower one member referenced. Maybe they called that portion a blower in the video.
I would think the barrels would last relatively long. I can't speak to that set up but I've used one burning barrel for 10 years.
If you decide on the pit method, as was pointed out, use dry wood and keep knocking it down as you go. Contrary to what some biochar experts claim, I think smaller branches is best.
Rico Swazi
Active member
gonna need a bigger trench
this is one of three piles I just can't justify going up in open flame
on the topic of charging, rotted leaf mold has worked well for me in the past
this is one of three piles I just can't justify going up in open flame
on the topic of charging, rotted leaf mold has worked well for me in the past
AgentPothead
Just this guy, ya know?
I found this plan for a small one made of coffee cans/paint cans. I was gonna give it a shot I suppose.
https://www.biochar-international.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/1G_Toucan_TLUD_for_Biochar.pdf
https://www.biochar-international.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/1G_Toucan_TLUD_for_Biochar.pdf
Rico Swazi
Active member
AgentPothead , my friend that uses the 35gal tried over a dozen times to get the paint can size to work. It was hit or miss with mostly dismal failure. Packing material just right was nearly impossible he said. Hes used the 35 for a couple years now and looks good as new he said. He never quenches it with water as it hastens oxidation
If you only need a small quantity, an old charred log that has been sitting around for a decade or so is just the ticket
no need to make charcoal and charge it as nature has done the work for you
If you only need a small quantity, an old charred log that has been sitting around for a decade or so is just the ticket
no need to make charcoal and charge it as nature has done the work for you
AgentPothead
Just this guy, ya know?
I'm more looking to make a small amount of it made from my dried marijuana plants to get it tested at a soil test lab as a favor to somebody.
Rico Swazi
Active member
very cool of you, do you have a lab in mind and price of the test?
We, my buddy and I, were just thinking the same thing
I have three plants that started retting and he has three identical a bit smaller that have been is his shed
Wood be cool if labs would wave the fee and do it for the good of mankind but money makes the wheels go round so it is what it is
We are definitely interested in participating if nothing else for own curiosity's sake
S
Sertaiz
i burn in big piles, halfway through i push off the top and mine the center for coals with a shovel, throwing them in a metal bucket of imos, or compost tea. they will sizzle and go out and be full of imos at the same time, precharged to hold imo life deep in your soil!.
i keep burning and mining the coal beds....
rake and shovel, dip em in the bucket every other stroke to keep the handles from burning clean off!
i keep burning and mining the coal beds....
rake and shovel, dip em in the bucket every other stroke to keep the handles from burning clean off!
AgentPothead
Just this guy, ya know?
I have only used the Umass Soil lab in the past. They seem like good people. Can't discuss the soil being about marijuana since it's federally funded, but you can get recommendations for tomatoes.
https://ag.umass.edu/services/soil-plant-nutrient-testing-laboratory
Rico Swazi
Active member
Thanks for the link, would you be doing the NPK test like the one below or is there a test for ash content?
Years ago oregon state univerity small farms program would do soil and plant samples for free for the asking. Those days are long gone.
AgentPothead
Just this guy, ya know?
Yeah I just run the Routine Soil Analysis it gives the information I need. And yeah prices are shit, last year it was 15$ this year is 20$ for the same test. 45$ seems excessive for a base level soil test, but that seems to be a plant tissue nutrient test. IE you give them a plant sample, not a soil sample. I guess you could keep some of the plant and get that tested as like a before test, then use the rest of the plant to make biochar and get that tested with the soil test.
do not use anything galvanized. burning it will make you very ill.
use steel barrel with a lid, punch or drill small holes near bottom, fill with wood-scraps to top, light fire and wait till it burns hot, cover with lid, low oxygen is important, let it self-extinguish using no water. if it snaps when you break it it was done right...should be charcoal through and through, not wood left.
then you can inoculate it with tea or pee. it is that simple.
if you purchase a barrel, be sure it has a lid.
edit: small holes in lid also...
