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Advanced closed loop system design and extraction tech

gardenlover

Member
Hi all, the goal of this thread is to discuss the best way to build a closed loop system and run it pice by pice. Most standard system consist of a Material column, a de wax column, and a collection base/(column >Buzzy bee)
First up, lets talk filters. There are are several different kinds out there and variations on how they set up. For mine, I have a Best Value which is several filter plates with a screen and type of compression clip to hold the filter paper, that is utterly worthless! The idea behind the clip is to apply preassure to the inside walls where the filter paper is suppose to be held firmly. However the clip is usually misshaped and will allow all kinds of crap slip by.

So the easy fix for this is to order these cheap Filter plate rings from the hardware factory store direct or on amazon for $12-26 depending on size. all they are is a solid stainless steal ring that will put even pressure on the entire filter paper the entire circumference of the tube.

Heres is where I need some input. I have seen many people separate their filter plate assembly from the de wax column and mount it separately. Does anyone know why this is done? is it easier to clean? I would be worried the fats would clog the hose going from the de wax column to the filter. but if that did not happen would it be a problem that the filter plates were not cold? After the lipids separate out, could they re-disolve back into the solvent at room temp?

I have more to add and more question to pose but want to go step by step.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hi all, the goal of this thread is to discuss the best way to build a closed loop system and run it pice by pice. Most standard system consist of a Material column, a de wax column, and a collection base/(column >Buzzy bee)
First up, lets talk filters. There are are several different kinds out there and variations on how they set up. For mine, I have a Best Value which is several filter plates with a screen and type of compression clip to hold the filter paper, that is utterly worthless! The idea behind the clip is to apply preassure to the inside walls where the filter paper is suppose to be held firmly. However the clip is usually misshaped and will allow all kinds of crap slip by.

So the easy fix for this is to order these cheap Filter plate rings from the hardware factory store direct or on amazon for $12-26 depending on size. all they are is a solid stainless steal ring that will put even pressure on the entire filter paper the entire circumference of the tube.

Heres is where I need some input. I have seen many people separate their filter plate assembly from the de wax column and mount it separately. Does anyone know why this is done? is it easier to clean? I would be worried the fats would clog the hose going from the de wax column to the filter. but if that did not happen would it be a problem that the filter plates were not cold? After the lipids separate out, could they re-disolve back into the solvent at room temp?

I have more to add and more question to pose but want to go step by step.

Consider a sock filter.
 

gardenlover

Member
as Gray Wolf has said so simply and on numerous threads-Sock filter! I believe a sock filter would be the best possible option and fore see extraction machines all having them in the near future. I have yet to try it but they do make triclamp style sock filter assemblys already that i have since ordered and will soon find out how they perform under the extreme conditions extractors have to work with. I know the first item i wanted to improve upon in my short extraction experience, was the filter assembly. They are big heavy and difficult to clean/remove and replace. their two dimensional surface also is not vary suitable for doing more than one run/ and sometimes they are not even equipped to handle that load. for more info https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=351271

now my feeling would not be hurt if this thread was deleted bc i am sure i am covering things that have already been discussed but i often find it hard to find the right thread so i will be trying to compile info thats already out there.
 

gardenlover

Member
So on to the next design perimeter, what temp and time is the best for de waxing while maintaining the desirable levels of THC/CBD/Terps.

Also is there different temps anyone has found better for live vs. dry vs. older (probably partly decarboxylated material)?

I am going to search the threads and will edit if I find to update hopefully
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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ICMag Donor
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So on to the next design perimeter, what temp and time is the best for de waxing while maintaining the desirable levels of THC/CBD/Terps.

Also is there different temps anyone has found better for live vs. dry vs. older (probably partly decarboxylated material)?

I am going to search the threads and will edit if I find to update hopefully

Dewaxing typically removes the fats, lipids, and plant waxes that have precipitated out of solution, not the terpenes and terpenoids, which are aromatic hydrocarbons and remain in solution.

The temperature has more influence on how long it takes. Folks use an alcohol/DI slurry in the column jackets to minimize time.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I would be remiss if I didn't note that most of the plant waxes coat the leaves and stem, and the fats and lipids are inside the plant, protected by that wax coating.

Nothing we are looking for is anywhere but in the trichomes on the outside of the plant. The trichomes do have a wax cap, but those are minor compared to the rest.

If you extract frozen material using an LPG mix at -30 to -50C, the plant waxes coating the plant mostly stay in place and hold the rest in place, so that it isn't necessary to inline dewax afterwards, for a purdy, smooth, aromatic, and tasty end product.
 
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