you're the one who makes a living doing this shit right?
Fascinating, do you do this before standard winterization then? I have been wondering if it's really necessary to go all the way through the process first to avoid slowing down first stage filtering.
just rolling through oil refining steps.What are people doing with the water and citric acid? Has anyone analyzed for % recovery of THC/THCA? Or compared citric to just water?
if i hold your hand now what are you gonna reach for when it's time to swim?
pay to play, google or crack a book.
what kind of uses could be found for separated cannabis gums?
What are people doing with the water and citric acid? Has anyone analyzed for % recovery of THC/THCA? Or compared citric to just water?
Yes, @ColumboLabs and @Future4200 on Instagram are documenting their trials with oil processing with a caveat that people remember we are processing resin, and not vegetable oil and that accommodations have to be made for that difference.
yes. res.....oleoresin and even more correctly still.... gummoleoresins.
far few nhp than some food oils, but more than some.
all of the "food oil" qualities desired are the same,
shelf stable (wont oxidize and change color/polymerize on ya),
no stank (deodorized with steam),
transparency(improved with shit removed)
and all of the contaminants are the same or similar and are removed with the same or similar processes.
if everyone abided the food oil refining steps.....well we'd all have good medicine! distillate wouldn't change colors. oh the smoothness.
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steam is pretty magical too. pulls out nasty smelling sterols and fragments of decomposed vitamins.
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I'd like to understand the setup to do this process. I have a short-path, but don't understand the steam distillation process. If you don't mind sharing, I would appreciate it. Even if it's just the setup you use.
Add water to your boiling flask, heat, stir, low vacuum 20-50 torr for average condenser with a trap, much lower if you can condense it fast enough like with a concentrator head.
Pack rings, beads, scrubbies can help the bumping from getting too far with a short path. Add a small vig column, 2-6" and maybe an additional condensor to run faster on the cheap.
Slow works, but residence times promote degradation especially in a noninert atmosphere. Act accordingly.
You will see oil bubbles seperating in the watery distillate until you are done.
Water in the flask works, a steam genny is better. Or run a second mantle with a vessel that can handle a lil pressure.
And by crack a book, I assume you are referring to Bleaching and Purifying Fats and Oils by Gary List, but please correct me if I am incorrect.
I appreciate your posting and having been using a similar method. This seems to be a reasonably simple purification step when used prior to or in combination with winterization. The downside is that the water reduces the proof of your alcohol making solvent recycle less effective.
Before discovering the acid-degumming process I have found strange gunk or gum in my rotovap and short path after performing a scrub with acid-activated carbon. The gunk was thick and black but could be washed to what I assume to be an insoluble grey gum. Interesting stuff! With the possibility of using washed waxes from winterization for lotions, soaps, and candles, what kind of uses could be found for separated cannabis gums?
I just tried acid-degumming and seem to have blown it. I added what was supposed to about 0.04% citric acid by crude oil weight at the outset of winterization. I immediately saw coagulation (might be wrong word) while crude dissolved in warm ethanol. After first freeze this coagulated material came out along with the normal fat. It was whitish in color. A subsequent freeze was filtered, then warmed and it went through a charcoal wash and was filtered through activated earth and 8 um filter paper. The material was lighter as expected. However during the rotovap as it neared full removal of ethanol the oil became hazy. When it was poured I found small particles in the oil and stuck to the walls. After a lot of work I cleaned them out and via scraping and rinsing. I filtered the rinse (was in IPA at this point) and found the material to be hard granules that did not look particularly crystalline. They were gray and varied in size and shape. I found they dissolved in water with a little action and foamed when exposed to hydrated baking soda. I found the bulk of material I left in the lab had absorbed water and become a sticky goo. Which sounds like what you describe.
Now I have a tray of material that is hazy and has these particles making it a failed batch. Looking for advice on what i did wrong and how to clean it up. I am thinking of using a hexane/water wash to pull out the water soluble material. Instead of using salt I was thinking of making the solution slightly basic and warm to aid in dissolving the contaminant.
I also have remaining material that needs to rotovap. I was thinking I should neutralize this and hope it stops the precipitate process that created the junk to begin with. I think I need to use an alcohol soluble base and believe lye, which I have around, would work. But totally unsure if this is going to get me in deeper trouble. Any help from this forum would be greatly appreciated.