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Old 09-09-2018, 11:42 PM #31
igrowone
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week 8 flower

ugly fan leaves mixed with nice buddage, if only there was more
at least another 2 weeks of ripening, maybe 11 total
i try to reconcile this plant from the prior one i grew
not much luck with that, they're just plain different
i dusted a small lower side bud with some pollen that i had dry frozen
that worked, so the genetics should be saved somewhat
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Old 09-17-2018, 01:37 AM #32
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flower 9 weeks

another week
again sorry for the ugly fans, they are clouding up the view
but underneath is nice, some family resemblance is taking shape
some hints of blue in the bud, and very solid cola from near bottom to top
and more of a pine/hash scent, which starts to remind of pheno #1
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Old 09-24-2018, 01:05 AM #33
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flower week 10

patiently waiting for ripeness, this is a slower indica pheno i think
2 more weeks i'll guess, that's a similarity i'm kind of wary of, especially for the small yields this little girl is going to have
unless it's some kind of holy grail, but i've not seen any holy grails yet
close, but not quite
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Old 09-24-2018, 01:33 AM #34
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IMHO the plant looks like it needs
Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium. t least. Lots going on there.

You list NO POTASSIUM in any of your fertilizers.
K should be the highest # in the total equation. Weed likes 2x the amount of Potassium vs Nitrogen.

Next time try a 19.5-20-39, and and don't forget the Calcium, and Magnesium. Its also a MYTH to limit Nitrogen in Flowering.

Id also look into the PH.

Id use Promix BX for my medium.

People who were there in the 70s when The Indian was 1st coming up with the NL varieties, say the NL5 Clone Only is an Indonesian Sativa that looks like Clay on a Stick.
When NEvil got it, he bred to some kind of Afghan, and could have been the NL1/Broadleaf. The Lower the #, the more Indica it has in it. NL1 is from what I understand an IBL Kandahar. Theres no indication from the guys in PNW who STILL HAVE the Original Clone Mother Uncrossed, that it was sent to Hawaii. From what I understand its pure 100% Sativa Indonesian.
There is also the famed 89 NOOF Cut, and the 90s Caution Male. Those were from Nevils/Sensi Hybridized Stock.

If your earlier Sativa oriented plant was indeed from the older seeds, even from the early 2000s, it was an Anamoly, as 99.9999999% of the Phenos from Nevil/Sensi are Exactly like the 1 you got this time. Sort, and Squat.
You need to try and reveg it with a good, strong light, better soil, feeding schedule, and save it.

Id transplant it into at least 5 gallons container in reveg. Let it fill out the 5 gallon container with roots. Transplant into 15 gallon conatiner for flowering. Reveg with as strong of a light as possible. 1000w if you can. Hortilux HPS. Take cuts before flowering.

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Old 09-24-2018, 01:43 AM #35
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it definitely didn't love the feed/soil
dolomite was there in 1 tbsp per gallon of soil, that's what i count on for extra magnesium/calcium
though it does release slowly
i suspect ph myself, but kind of getting towards the end, and it's producing far better buds than the crappy fan leaves suggest
suspicion is the pheno didn't tolerate the alkalinity of the cow compost, which is of a cheaper variety
and the cheaper composts seem to have a more alkaline character according to some of my reading

edit: almost forgot to mention main feed alfalfa molasses tea
that does have a fair bit of potassium
i've done some comparisons on other grows where potassium was added from wood ash
and that didn't change anything which implied(to me) the potassium levels i had were adequate
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Old 09-24-2018, 02:11 AM #36
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When using lime, the preferred method by farmers is to use 2/3 Calcitic Lime, to 1/3 Dolomite. If in really heavy clay soil. NO DOLOMITE.

Dolomite is to slow for fast PH adjustment, and is why Calcitic is used. Dolomite will also make clay soil like concrete. When not used together, you create a Cal/Mag imbalance.
Molasses also greatly lowers the PH.

Also just because you added wood ash ect, and you didn't notice a difference doesn't mean other things weren't also goin og.

You can do what you want, but the plant is totally food deficient.

I also dont go by guessing. I have a plan when I start, and I give my plants every known nutrient there is for being healthy at every stage, and I leave no stone unturned. I can do it in my sleep. Regardless if I use chemicals, or organic. Ive also been growing since 1972, so its not like I started yesterday.

Also regardless. Weed likes 2x more Potassium vs Nitrogen, regardless of observation. Im going by Tissue Analysis. No Guessing. It is also a huge consumer of Magnesium, and Calcium, and basically likes the same amount of Phosphorus, and Nitrogen. 19.5 vs 20.
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Old 09-24-2018, 02:22 AM #37
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well, the soil is pure cow compost, to which is added 1 tbsp dolomite per gallon
also added was 2 tbsp of bone meal per gallon which is of the nitrogen containing type 6-9-0
nitrogen was not lacking, nor phosphorous
the wood ash experience i was referring to was with plants that grew well in the mix
most plants i have grown in this mix have generally liked it more, this 1 was more particular
take a peek in few weeks when all the fans have been trimmed off, and judge on the bud shown
not that i don't learn from experience, some peat moss might be helpful in there

edit: and thanks for the feedback, that is much appreciated
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:10 AM #38
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If the compost is Alkaline/Neutral ( 7 ), and you added more Dolomite. Im sure you have a big PH problem. You just made Neutral, more Alkaline.

Weed likes PH 6.2-6.5 in soil. More acidic in Hydro. at 7 PH all kinds of stuff is locked out.

Wed also likes a light, airy soil. Compost is heavy, and doesn't breath. Its good stuff, but if you mix with Sphagum moss, its best to mix 50/50, and also add Perlite/Vermiculite, or pumice/lava rock.

For organic I like to use.
Peruvian Seabird Guano. Both Veg, and Flowering mix.
Kelp
AZOMITE
Muriate of Potash or Potassium Sulfate.
Compost
Calcitic/Dolomitic Lime.
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:16 AM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambertrichome View Post
If the compost is Alkaline/Neutral ( 7 ), and you added more Dolomite. Im sure you have a big PH problem. You just made Neutral, more Alkaline.

Weed likes PH 6.2-6.5 in soil. More acidic in Hydro. at 7 PH all kinds of stuff is locked out.

Wed also likes a light, airy soil. Compost is heavy, and doesn't breath. Its good stuff, but if you mix with Sphagum moss, its best to mix 50/50, and also add Perlite/Vermiculite, or pumice/lava rock.

For organic I like to use.
Peruvian Seabird Guano. Both Veg, and Flowering mix.
Kelp
AZOMITE
Muriate of Potash or Potassium Sulfate.
Compost
Calcitic/Dolomitic Lime.
thanks for the tips
here's the deal i've read on dolomite
dolomite supposedly will not raise the ph in an alkaline setting
strangely enough, it can lower ph slightly in that circumstance
as i remember it has a buffering capability, but it's hazy to me years later
i have been lax in checking my outflow of late, lazy i know
but it normally comes in around 6.5, i will have to check it at my last watering
but i suspect it will be close to that
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Old 10-01-2018, 01:23 AM #40
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week 11 of 12/12

week 11 - time doesn't fly, but still always a 'whew' moment getting to the end
i don't think it's quite done, trich check tomorrow, but it's still doing some packing on
that said, it's sprouting new white pistils at the bud tips, kind of interesting
just visible in my crappy picture, but i never complain about more pitsils
i was going to ph the outflow, however it just didn't need watering
plant is small, doesn't drink that fast, and i prefer a bit drier as it finishes

edit: ph check - around 6.5 on the outflow, normal
trichomes - many clear, this is similar to prior grow, slow ripener
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