Wiring TG11 Socket Remote CFL lamps

McSnappler · Apr 28, 2009

Hi dude, thought I should put this in the wiring thread rather than t'other one.

I wanted to ask knna, as these are ballasts he's used, but he doesnt seem to accept PMs.

I've got Osram Quicktronic QT 2x55W ballasts, and want to double check I'm not going to blow them up when I switch them on. I've done a budget diagram below, it's not pretty, but it conveys what I think is the right wiring. Please could you help me confirm that I'm right, or indeed, wrong?

edit: picture removed to avoid confusion.

Squeeky · Apr 29, 2009

Not to self promote, but if anyone needs 2G11 sockets for their "aquarium" let me know as I have ten extra. Let me know if I can hellp out, can't give them away but most likely better shipping cost then online companies.

Hydro-Soil · Apr 29, 2009

Squeeky said:
Not to self promote, but if anyone needs 2G11 sockets for their "aquarium" let me know as I have ten extra. Let me know if I can hellp out, can't give them away but most likely better shipping cost then online companies.

Do you have an e-bay account?

McSnappler: Yes, Thank you for the clearer picture. It looks like you do have the wiring correct. Funky wiring for me to look at though. Thanks for posting!

knna · Apr 29, 2009

Sorry, McSnappler . I had PMs disabled.

Although probably the lamps will work as you have conected it, I connect them with a little difference: change conections between 24 and 25, and between 23 and the wire coming from 21 on the bottom socket.

Think the diagram on the ballast is for a fluorescent tube. See PLL pins exactly on the position after bend the tube by half and put the four pin in line. If you do that, you realize pin conected to 24 not finish on the out side, but between 21 and 25. Same for the other bulb.

Hydro-Soil · Apr 29, 2009

knna said:
Sorry, McSnappler . I had PMs disabled.

Although probably the lamps will work as you have conected it, I connect them with a little difference: change conections between 24 and 25, and between 23 and the wire coming from 21 on the bottom socket.

Think the diagram on the ballast is for a fluorescent tube. See PLL pins exactly on the position after bend the tube by half and put the four pin in line. If you do that, you realize pin conected to 24 not finish on the out side, but between 21 and 25. Same for the other bulb.

Howdy Knna!

Thanks for stepping in. Gotta say that's one confusing ballast wiring thingy going there. LOL

McSnappler: Please post a pic of the wiring when it's working properly. This is invaluable work you're doing for us here. Thanks!

Squeeky · Apr 30, 2009

Hydro, I do have an account, and plan on listing pairs of sockets. There is a guy that sells 2x for $12 shipped. I know if I listed for $10 shipped I have them sold quickly just trying to offer on here first for less.

I hard mounted the sockets in the flower area yesterday, my temps went from 77 in veg, to 91. I have got to figure out a better vent system, the scrubbers on the lasko task fan kills it's pressure.

Hydro-Soil · Apr 30, 2009

Squeeky said:
Hydro, I do have an account, and plan on listing pairs of sockets. There is a guy that sells 2x for $12 shipped. I know if I listed for $10 shipped I have them sold quickly just trying to offer on here first for less.

I hard mounted the sockets in the flower area yesterday, my temps went from 77 in veg, to 91. I have got to figure out a better vent system, the scrubbers on the lasko task fan kills it's pressure.

Ouch!

Have you looked into making a scrubber from multiple layers of carbon sheet? One or two layers won't work but if you can make them large enough and put enough together, you'll get the scrubbing you need without knocking down the airflow as much.

Or a better fan.

McSnappler · May 7, 2009

Here (thanks to knna) is how to correctly wire the Osram Quicktronic 2 x 55W ballast with two 55W PL-L lamps.

420ish · May 10, 2009

when wiring a four light system,could you jumper the yellow wires from one socket to another to another instead of splicing them all together and connecting to the one yellow wire out of the workhorse 8?

Hydro-Soil · May 10, 2009

420ish said:
when wiring a four light system,could you jumper the yellow wires from one socket to another to another instead of splicing them all together and connecting to the one yellow wire out of the workhorse 8?

I'm not an electrician but I seriously doubt you'd want to do that.

Do it like the fulham diagram says. Twist the yellow wires from each socket together and then attach them to the single yellow.

420ish · May 11, 2009

Hydro-Soil said:
I'm not an electrician but I seriously doubt you'd want to do that.

Do it like the fulham diagram says. Twist the yellow wires from each socket together and then attach them to the single yellow.

well talked to an electrician and he said it was ok!wired all the lights like that and no problems

Hydro-Soil · May 11, 2009

420ish said:
well talked to an electrician and he said it was ok!wired all the lights like that and no problems

Excellent!

Photos??

420ish · May 12, 2009

not as clean as i want .i will post pics after i redo it a little cleaner!

Eliyaz · May 25, 2009

Thank you for this thread!
any ideas on a diy box for the ballast cause of warmth and humidity?
and do you think humidity would be a problem when it comes to the socket itself?

Hydro-Soil · May 25, 2009

Eliyaz said:
Thank you for this thread!
any ideas on a diy box for the ballast cause of warmth and humidity?
and do you think humidity would be a problem when it comes to the socket itself?

If you keep the humidity between 30 and 60% for your ladies, your ballast and sockets will be just fine and your ladies will be great.

As for the ballast heat, it's really not that much and won't even melt anything. (The majority of the heat is produced during the first 2 weeks of use and then it gets cooler)

Since it's also doesn't make any noise at all (if you use electronic ballasts like the Fulham Workhorse) you can mount it anywhere, even on the back-side of the cab out of sight.

If you really want to cool it, a simple box with a muffin fan would be more than sufficient.

J-Blunt · May 31, 2009

anyone know a good site to buy 2g11 sockets from? i cant call and talk to 1000bulbs till 2mrw, but from what ive read they wont have anymore sockets anyways. i cant find anything thats for a good price

Hydro-Soil · Jun 1, 2009

J-Blunt said:
anyone know a good site to buy 2g11 sockets from? i cant call and talk to 1000bulbs till 2mrw, but from what ive read they wont have anymore sockets anyways. i cant find anything thats for a good price

I'm considering looking for a local lighting store that's willing to order me several of them. After shipping costs, online purchases just make it expensive. The good thing is that it's a one time purchase.

Look at some of the specialty lighting shops online for special effects and such. You may be able to find those nice push button ones. They're about $6 each before shipping but they're definitely worth it!

Tanuvan · Jun 1, 2009

http://www.coollights.biz/2g11-base-p-38.html <-- these bases are AWESOME.

Side note, on the Fullham workhorse with the 4 red wires (workhorse 5)...if you are running 2 55 PL-L, be sure to follow the diagram and join the two red wires from the ballast otherwise they will not run at the full 55 watt power.

So you should have 2 pairs of 2 red wires. 2 red wires joined for one bulb...and 2 red wires joined for the other bulb.

If you don't twist and join them first...it will end up over-driving the bulbs.

J-Blunt · Jun 1, 2009

i ended up buying the sockets from bulbs.com...they will do the job, and at a better price than some other sites

jknedy@live.com · Jun 20, 2009

Tanuvan said:
Here is what I am talking about hydro. Take a look at the pdf. I like your way better, but I thought I'd ask the mfr.

i ordered from 1000bulbs and got the same 2g11 sockets as in the diagram posted by Tanuvan.

how did you wire up the lights using these sockets? i have the workhorse 8 ballast (fulham)

Wiring TG11 Socket Remote CFL lamps

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