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Thinkin bout goin vert? Here's what you might need

AugustWest

Active member
Veteran
i have a pretty silly question.. :tongue:

do you just tilt that honeywell fan upwards by itself.. or do you mount it to something?

i think i may do a single 400w this summer to try this out.. i figure my temps should be ok w/ only the 400 running.

thanks again for answering all out questions dudes :thank you: :tiphat:
 

ambertrich

Active member
Veteran
i have a pretty silly question.. :tongue:

do you just tilt that honeywell fan upwards by itself.. or do you mount it to something?

i think i may do a single 400w this summer to try this out.. i figure my temps should be ok w/ only the 400 running.

thanks again for answering all out questions dudes :thank you: :tiphat:

:yeahthats

Same question about the fan. Does it have the adjustable knobs on the sides to set the tilt and then tighten in place?
Thanks.:ying:

Good luck with the 400w deal, August. I know you will do a nice job with it.:)
 

TruthOrLie

Active member
Veteran
I have found that in my set up... instead of a fan directly below the light...

Have an intake duct from your exhaust hanging directly above the light...

This sucks up so much heat its an unbelievable comparison, for me at least.

Reason why, I think... the fan below the light shoots the hot air up to the ceiling where it bounces all around the grow room.

Having the intake duct directly above the light sucks almost 99% of that heat away immediately.

My fan is positioned to circulate the cool air below the lights towards the upper regions of my plants.
 
D

DHF

Ok.....here`s the thing bout the fan on the floor....Way back when these setup`s started happening , we learned that fans with "lower" torque/speed settings worked better pushin hot bulb air up to the exhaust/scrubber combo`s , instead of blastin up at the bare bulbs and exactly like truth or lie said , spreadin excess heat ALL round the rooms to be dealt with from environmental control with a/c`s handlin things makin em work harder.....

A slow constant "column of air" rising keeps heat and stank removed from the rooms , as well as not causing excess transpiration/sweating from the plants closest to the lights that also causes wind/heat stress and throws nutrient uptake off causing imbalances and lockouts.......

Intake fan above the lights T or L ?.....Sounds like it works well , but where`s the scrubber combo.......outside the room ?....

Peace....DHF.....:ying:.....
 
L

laylow

as everyone is here im into my second week of flower and am looking to strip my girls down so back on the subject of defoliation have any of you guys got some before and after picks

also please feel free to let me know when you defoliate and at what extreme

Marc i did see your post with the link and i have also posted in that thread stating my technique for flat sog gardens

I also see that red's and Who.D's trellis/netting they have up is 3" im about to order was going to go with 2" is 3 a better option to give plants more area to move?

Great topic Marlo..... :D
 

mrktwiz

Member
as everyone is here im into my second week of flower and am looking to strip my girls down so back on the subject of defoliation have any of you guys got some before and after picks

also please feel free to let me know when you defoliate and at what extreme

Marc i did see your post with the link and i have also posted in that thread stating my technique for flat sog gardens

I also see that red's and Who.D's trellis/netting they have up is 3" im about to order was going to go with 2" is 3 a better option to give plants more area to move?

Great topic Marlo..... :D

Lawlow my bro...hehe it rhyms....I'm a bit baked atm

I did defoliating my last run and because I had SO many other issue's complicating my grow I am going to try it again. All I am going to take is sun leaves and anything else hiding major area's where more light penetration could help bigger bud production. Their is a WHOLE thread on defoliation called; Defoliation: High Yield Techniques; https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=174163

This should answer a lot of your questions regarding Defoliation.

Good luck man looking forward to seeing how you do!:tiphat:
 
L

laylow

this line was meant for you Mrktwiz

Marc i did see your post with the link and i have also posted in that thread stating my technique for flat sog gardens
 
D

DHF

Wait till stretch is all but over ta strip leaves and trim out inside "sucker" branches not inline with colas , to prevent shock and recovery times while the plants are still growin/rootmasses still swellin.....

Then the plants are in swellage mode anyways once hormone changes take effect and they`re spittin pistils and won`t slow down from the rape and pillage so much , but it`s definitely strain dependent cuz when I was told ta strip my Chem D`s at day 21 and 45 , it fucked em slap up and shut em down......

Took 2 weeks for em ta get back to where my other rooms growth/swellage wise were , and added 2 extra weeks onto my harvest rotations that cost extra powerbills and fucked my next fully rooted cuts/pre-vegged and ready for bloom rooms the next runs......

They were a breeze ta trim though......but....

Once all dominant colas/nugs have decent sized sugar leaves in late flower , yas can get rid of all fan leaves till end of cycle since they`ll only cannibalize themselves , lose pigment color , die and fall off anyways if grown properly.....

Good luck....DHF....:ying:....
 
I

Iron_Lion

Could anyone tell me if one of those honey well fans will be enough to cool a 1k bare bulb in a 4x8 tent with a 425 cfm inline exausting air from the tent?

Also so I was wondering how realistic it would be to get 1gpw with a 1k vertical?
 

CyrilSneer

Member
Ok.....here`s the thing bout the fan on the floor....Way back when these setup`s started happening , we learned that fans with "lower" torque/speed settings worked better pushin hot bulb air up to the exhaust/scrubber combo`s , instead of blastin up at the bare bulbs and exactly like truth or lie said , spreadin excess heat ALL round the rooms to be dealt with from environmental control with a/c`s handlin things makin em work harder.....

A slow constant "column of air" rising keeps heat and stank removed from the rooms , as well as not causing excess transpiration/sweating from the plants closest to the lights that also causes wind/heat stress and throws nutrient uptake off causing imbalances and lockouts.......


Peace....DHF.....:ying:.....

Hi Lion, well I'm far from able to give too much advice cause I'm on my first vertical, but I am running a 1000 over top of a 400 in a 6x8 room with passive intake and 600 + cfm exhaust. Before I read this ^^ I ran my honeywell on full throttle and my temps seemed to hover around 82-84F :( I then turned to the lowest setting and the temp dropped to 79F So I guess what 'seems' right isn't always LOL. Thank goodness for these forums and folks like DHF for sharing knowledge. Hope this is a little help. :tiphat:
 
D

DHF

Glad things`re workin out Sneer...it`s the little things that work together for dialage IME.......and yes...thing`s are not always as they seem when dialing environment.......I mean shit.....

Heat rises on it`s own anyways , so all that`s really needed is a constant "slow" column of air to assist the exhaust/scrubber combo`s in suckin it all out....simple.... babyshit.....and...

1 gpw`s on the low end of things once strain and environment`s are dialed with bare bulbs of any size.....

Good luck Lion....DHF.....:ying:...
 

megayields

Grower of Connoisseur herb's.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
A slow column of air is better than a fast one and pulling it out at the ceiling? Just wondering friend.....
 

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
The fan in the cab, under the lights, set on low. The extraction fan above lights set to whatever speed keeps your temps under control.
 

Dicomaco

Member
Awesome thread guys!!

My plan was do do like this for 2x 600w.

picture.php


However I'm not sure if it would be better for me to use 2 cooltubes instead.

Is the decrease in light significant when using cooltubes vs bare bulbs?

My biggest worry is that the fan, as someone mentioned already, will just blow the warm air up against the ceiling and around the room. I'm not that much into understanding exactly how airflow works, so it might seem logical to some, but not to me :p

I'd appreciate if some would chime in, my first Vert is kicking off next weekend, but I'm still not sure about how everything is going down yet
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Awesome thread guys!!

My plan was do do like this for 2x 600w.

picture.php


However I'm not sure if it would be better for me to use 2 cooltubes instead.

Is the decrease in light significant when using cooltubes vs bare bulbs?

My biggest worry is that the fan, as someone mentioned already, will just blow the warm air up against the ceiling and around the room. I'm not that much into understanding exactly how airflow works, so it might seem logical to some, but not to me :p

I'd appreciate if some would chime in, my first Vert is kicking off next weekend, but I'm still not sure about how everything is going down yet

Go back and read the last couple post by DHF. If you're exchanging your room air 2x a minute, that little honeywell or smaller fan you have pushing air up SLOWLY is going to assist the heat in rising before being sucked directly out of the room. If you blast the air up then the heat will go everywhere.

Good luck with your first vert. No cool tubes. They're not needed.
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
almost everything i know about vert i learned from Krunchbubble and DHF

good thread btw
 
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