-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
Organics for mites
- Thread starter Scrappy4
- Start date
are all types of lavenbers edible?
We are trying to grow it. My wife has some starting in her aero garden. Plus I cloned some from her outdoor plant, but the clones look more like vines,not sure what happened there. I have cloned other herbs like Rosemary and basil successfully though.....scrappy
Thanks Jay, I plan on doing that, but I was looking for something while waiting for the plant to grow. Choices for plant look like Provence Blue, Lady, and Blue River. Any suggestions on strain?
Actually a while back I was looking through the azamax manual and I found in the fine print that it is by a company called Parry America. I looked further and Parry America is a subsidiary of Parry EID, an indian company. Parry EID makes a neem extract called neemazal.
I found that azamax is actually registered with the EPA under the name neemazal t/s, with the labeled name as
azamax.
http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_Product.jsp?REG_NR=07190800001&DIST_NR=081268
Here on this page it shows that azamax is in fact just one of four different brand names for neemazal t/s. Aza direct is also available in the US I believe.
I looked further and neemazal is a water extracted neem concentrate of 1.2%. Parry makes other concentrations like 5% but doesn't offer them in this market.
I like using it once every other week as a soil drench. Foliar on new clones, or if you notice any sign of infestation. It is supposed to be used as a preventative and control, not to stop a bad infestation in its tracks. The downside is this means using it for pretty much the whole grow, except late flowering. I'm sure the manufacturer loves that, especially at over $100 for half a gallon.
I would like to grow some lavender plants next year.
If anyone has any tips on successfully cultivating lavender plants i'm all ears. 
I have some lavender seeds, but the two plants i started earlier this year just up and died on me for no apparent reason. Starting up some more seeds tonight, so hopefully somebody will have some info.
delerious should have some dried lavender soon and if it's good I'll let ya know.
I have some lavender seeds, but the two plants i started earlier this year just up and died on me for no apparent reason. Starting up some more seeds tonight, so hopefully somebody will have some info. delerious should have some dried lavender soon and if it's good I'll let ya know.
OK, here is the deal on growing Lavender. It germinates terrible. I always buy plants from the greenhouses in the spring. That said Lavender is a true Mediterranean plant. It requires dry soil and thrives on neglect on LOW nutrition. Outside Lavender requires "sharp" drainage, usually obtained by using grit, gravel, sand and NO clay. Indoors if you used pro mix you would cut it with extra perlite and or vermiculite. Lavender forms woody stems that hate to be wet. Cold wet winters will kill or rot this woody growth. It is a sun hog and does not do well on windowsills. Traditionally in less than ideal conditions you dig a hole, put several inches of small gravel in it then plant the seedling in a mix of grit, sand and some organic matter. Make sure the crown is slightly above soil level and then neglect it for the rest of its life. Good luck
lavender likes LOTS of sand, i mix equal parts EWC and sand for germinating lavender seeds. but cuttings is also an option.
best to just go buy a mature plant for a few bucks and save yourself the trouble unless you want lots of them like me( i do cuttings and seed )
best to just go buy a mature plant for a few bucks and save yourself the trouble unless you want lots of them like me( i do cuttings and seed )
I took about 1/4 cup of flowers, and added them to a mason jar full of water. Blended the whole thing up, then let it sit for 2 days, shaking it up a couple times a day.
Diluted it 50:1 and sprayed it on the plant. This plant was not healthy to begin with, thanks to the mites.
Maybe the jar should have sat with the lid off and not on?
But hey, it fucking NUKED the mites, that's for sure.
i like to dip small plants instead of spraying. i have had better success with wiping em out.
The_Weed_Worm
New member
Spider mites are easily the bane of any cannabis growers existence, and here in the emerald triangle they are everywhere. Mites will even infest outdoor plants in early spring before predators can reach sufficient numbers. Dealing with mites is a tricky step by step process that never ends, here are some of my thoughts, precautions and methods.
1. Quarantine - In places where the ground does not freeze for about two weeks straight each year, spider mites are prevalent year round. This means you need a filter on your intake fans, and you need to change your clothes when entering your grow to prevent mites from riding along into the room with you. Seal the room off from all pets, guests and small, curious, bipedal hominids. (a.k.a. Children) If you have a real OCD problem you can also tanglefoot the rim of your pots, and/or the base of the stem.
2. Proactive Control - When I say proactive, I mean this will really only work in two ways. One, you are in veg you see you have a small infestation but the population of mites is low. Two, as a preventative measure against mite infestation. Once the mites have reproduced to moderate or high levels, especially if you can see the webs they make, you are done for...at that point they have already taken most of the plants energy. Constantly scout your plants being on the lookout for mites. Look for small yellow dots on top of the leaf blade, the mites hang out on the underside of the leaf.
3. Products - Lavender works very well, but if you do not access to lavender flowers stylet oil is almost as cheap. $20.00 per gallon usually.
It is interesting to me that most cannabis growers use products that are not listed as a pesticide to kill spidermites. However, I'm not just a cannabis grower, and actually went to collage for agriculture. (bachelors in Hort, masters in Viticulture) So, I am privy to a great deal of inside information within the agriculture Community. I will tell you right now, that there are only two organic products that work to kill mites and one that kinda works. They are JMS Stylet Oil, First Exctraction/Cold Pressed Neem a.k.a. Einstein Oil, and sucra shield. Here is how each one works.
JMS Stylet Oil - It is a natural mineral oil. 100% harmless to humans. Mix at 1.8 ounces per gallon. Use cold water. Treat all rooted cuttings, veg plants and moms every 14 days as the oil begins to break down after that. I treat my flowering plants one week before flowering and 2.5 - 3 wks into flower, that will protect them until harvest. Spray the undersides of the leaves and all tight spaces very well. This product doesn't kill mites immediately, it takes anywhere from 3 days to a week and half to kill most of the adults and juveniles, and about 3 weeks to kill all the hatchlings. Always spray at night time.
Einstein Oil - If you choose this route, you have to use Einstein oil. All other neem oil product are not strong enough to do the job right. This product works almost instantly to kill mites. Basically same adivice as with the Stylet oil exept try to wear gloves and goggles when spraying this product. Also do not use this stuff past 4-5 days into flowering as it can cause unwanted stress to a flowering plant. This stuff does not stay on the plant, so Spray every three to four days for two to three weeks. Always spray at night.
Sucra Shield - This product is a basically just a sucrose (sugar) solution. That when sprayed correctly, traps the mite by coating it in a hard layer of sticky sucrose and either suffocates or starves it. The problem with sucra-shield is that it is very sensitive to water quality and pH. I suggest using RO/DI water and pH the mixture to exactly 6.5, it has to be at this pH to work correctly if at all. And again always treat your plans during their dark cycle, for maximum effect on the pest.
This info should help you understand that mite control is more preventative than eradicative. Don't be a lazy farmer, cause then your nothing more than a stupid stoner. Farming or growing anything is about being proactive, and working hard to find what works for YOU!! Don't just take the word of some dumbass who works at your local hydro store. Their job is to sell merchandise not save your garden.
The_Weed_Worm
1. Quarantine - In places where the ground does not freeze for about two weeks straight each year, spider mites are prevalent year round. This means you need a filter on your intake fans, and you need to change your clothes when entering your grow to prevent mites from riding along into the room with you. Seal the room off from all pets, guests and small, curious, bipedal hominids. (a.k.a. Children) If you have a real OCD problem you can also tanglefoot the rim of your pots, and/or the base of the stem.
2. Proactive Control - When I say proactive, I mean this will really only work in two ways. One, you are in veg you see you have a small infestation but the population of mites is low. Two, as a preventative measure against mite infestation. Once the mites have reproduced to moderate or high levels, especially if you can see the webs they make, you are done for...at that point they have already taken most of the plants energy. Constantly scout your plants being on the lookout for mites. Look for small yellow dots on top of the leaf blade, the mites hang out on the underside of the leaf.
3. Products - Lavender works very well, but if you do not access to lavender flowers stylet oil is almost as cheap. $20.00 per gallon usually.
It is interesting to me that most cannabis growers use products that are not listed as a pesticide to kill spidermites. However, I'm not just a cannabis grower, and actually went to collage for agriculture. (bachelors in Hort, masters in Viticulture) So, I am privy to a great deal of inside information within the agriculture Community. I will tell you right now, that there are only two organic products that work to kill mites and one that kinda works. They are JMS Stylet Oil, First Exctraction/Cold Pressed Neem a.k.a. Einstein Oil, and sucra shield. Here is how each one works.
JMS Stylet Oil - It is a natural mineral oil. 100% harmless to humans. Mix at 1.8 ounces per gallon. Use cold water. Treat all rooted cuttings, veg plants and moms every 14 days as the oil begins to break down after that. I treat my flowering plants one week before flowering and 2.5 - 3 wks into flower, that will protect them until harvest. Spray the undersides of the leaves and all tight spaces very well. This product doesn't kill mites immediately, it takes anywhere from 3 days to a week and half to kill most of the adults and juveniles, and about 3 weeks to kill all the hatchlings. Always spray at night time.
Einstein Oil - If you choose this route, you have to use Einstein oil. All other neem oil product are not strong enough to do the job right. This product works almost instantly to kill mites. Basically same adivice as with the Stylet oil exept try to wear gloves and goggles when spraying this product. Also do not use this stuff past 4-5 days into flowering as it can cause unwanted stress to a flowering plant. This stuff does not stay on the plant, so Spray every three to four days for two to three weeks. Always spray at night.
Sucra Shield - This product is a basically just a sucrose (sugar) solution. That when sprayed correctly, traps the mite by coating it in a hard layer of sticky sucrose and either suffocates or starves it. The problem with sucra-shield is that it is very sensitive to water quality and pH. I suggest using RO/DI water and pH the mixture to exactly 6.5, it has to be at this pH to work correctly if at all. And again always treat your plans during their dark cycle, for maximum effect on the pest.
This info should help you understand that mite control is more preventative than eradicative. Don't be a lazy farmer, cause then your nothing more than a stupid stoner. Farming or growing anything is about being proactive, and working hard to find what works for YOU!! Don't just take the word of some dumbass who works at your local hydro store. Their job is to sell merchandise not save your garden.
The_Weed_Worm
Just a couple of comments...
1. Einstein Oil is not pure neem seed oil - not by any stretch of the imagination.
2. Dyna-Gro Neem Tree Seed Oil is 1500 PPM of Azadirachtin
3. Organic Neem Seed Oil from The Ahimsa Foundation is 4500 PPM of Azadirachtin
4. The pricing of Einstein Oil is absurd - it's beyond absurd. Pure organic neem seed oil (as well as organic karanja oil) is $68.00 per gallon and Einstein Oil is $45.00+ per pint or $360.00+ per gallon. Minimum.
I'll pass. For that amount of money I could buy 2 gallons of organic neem oil, 2 gallons of organic karanja seed oil, 50 lbs. of organic neem seed meal - delivered.
CC
Last edited:
The_Weed_Worm
New member
Coot,
I Totally agree with you, Einstein oil is not worth the money, though its not near as expensive where I get some of my stuff from. That is the reason why I personally do not use it, but every so often to make sure the mites dont develop immunities to the other products I use. Einstein oil does say: "Cold Pressed - First Extraction" Only one I found that says that, but anyways that's not important.
What is important is those three products were the only ones that I personally witnessed effectiveness on killing mites. We tested all the products at the local hydro store, they were JMS style oil, Einstein oil, sucra shield, Pyganic Pyrethrum EC 5.4, Zero tolerance, and Azamax. Mixed each product as directed, found some mites on one of our outdoor plants this summer, took a 100x digital microscope and eye dropper. We then applied each directly to the mites with the eye dropper and watched the results over the next 20 min with the scope.
The Zero Tolerance did absolutely nothing, throw it away...
The Azamax did elicit a response but did not kill them....
The Pyganic killed most of them instantly and worked well, but did not kill every mite we hit with it. Downside - This sh*t is EXPENSIVE!!
The Sucra Shield either worked very well or not at all, either encased them in a layer of sugar goo, or didn't correctly, depended on water quality. Fairly priced, for how well to works. (gotta figure out how to make my own tho)
The Einstein Oil worked well since it was an oil it coated the mite and really prevented them from escaping the toxins. Down side, it didn't work well in daylight.
The Stylet Oil also coated them well but an effect took longer to be seen but it worked much better in daylight than Einstein. A plus side to the style oil is it kills them for up to 14 day after spraying cause it stays on the leaves and poisons the mites as they attempt to feed, none of the others will do that. An for $20 a gallon, that is way cheaper than neem and safer for you and the plant and less work and more effective.
The bottom line is preventative action, its the only real "sure thing"
Im not telling you guys what to do, just telling you what I did when I was pulling my hair out with mites, lol. Happy mite killing!
Worm
So strange, I've used both Dyna and Einstein oil, Dyna barely worked and the Einstein was killer. I used both at the same concentrations, same spray bottle and same water source....
The_Weed_Worm
New member
So strange, I've used both Dyna and Einstein oil, Dyna barely worked and the Einstein was killer. I used both at the same concentrations, same spray bottle and same water source....
The Einstein oil doesn't degrade as easily in sunlight, the Dyna is volatile as it is, especially in sunlight. The Einstein really coats the mite well too. There is defiantly more to though because you have to take into account how it is supposed to affect the mite. I'd love to do some more research on this .... just need the time sometime ... lol.
Before buying any pesticide always look up the manufacturer's list of pests the pesticide is registered to kill. It is something one would routinely do with chemical pesticides, however since "Big Agriculture" also uses organic pesticides they still produce the list of affected pests for the organic pesticides. Usually this info is only available to Ag industry guys, but you can find it if you search for it on the internet. It is stupid that not all companies put it on the bottle with the MSDS.
Worm
My experience with using both the neem seed oil and karanja seed oil is that it's most effective in alternating one with the other using liquid potassium silicate as an emulsion and yucca root powder as a surfactant. I add this to a mixture of kelp meal and neem/karanja seed meal tea and in particular the kelp meal component has been shown to inhibit the hatching of mite larva.
Having said that, it's also been my experience that a combination of fermenting both lavender flowers and rosemary with some kind of mint addition (marjoram, basil, spearmint, peppermint, et al) to copy the organic miticide out of Canada called EcoTrol and using the addition of both potassium silicate and yucca root extract powder to be a complete and total miticide.
Using the neem seed meal and kelp meal tea as the 'carrying agent' for the fermented flowers from the lavender and rosemary has proven to be extremely effective.
HTH
CC
Having said that, it's also been my experience that a combination of fermenting both lavender flowers and rosemary with some kind of mint addition (marjoram, basil, spearmint, peppermint, et al) to copy the organic miticide out of Canada called EcoTrol and using the addition of both potassium silicate and yucca root extract powder to be a complete and total miticide.
Using the neem seed meal and kelp meal tea as the 'carrying agent' for the fermented flowers from the lavender and rosemary has proven to be extremely effective.
HTH
CC
