Tri-Clamp Vape Rig

Pangea · Sep 3, 2015

Hey all,

Has anyone converted any of their triclamp parts to a rig?

I have a 1.5" sight glass that I dont use and have been thinking about converting it to a rig.

From the bottom up:
I will get a 1.5" - 3" end cap reducer with the opening welded shut for the base. It will be clamped to the sight glass.
Atop the sight glass will be a T spool.
The side t port arm will go to the mouth piece.

The top of the T will be a end cap, this is where I plan to have the joint connection for the bowl/nail and is part I cant quite figure out.

The 1.5" end cap should have a metal to glass ground joint, the problem is I cant find any metal ground joints to attach to the lid cap.

I plan on using a removable downstem into this connection.

I like the idea because its sturdy, strong and easily cleanable. One can customize it many ways as well. Instead of a T above the sight glass one could but a cross in for multiple mouth pieces.

Any thoughts on the rig or help figuring out the glass to metal transition are welcome.

:peacock:

Hashmasta-Kut · Sep 3, 2015

wth bro? sounds ingenious!

Pangea · Sep 3, 2015

Thanks! I thought it was a good idea as well. Ive sent the design to a mfg, we'll see if they can do it. It shouldnt be very difficult, one should be able to use a 1.5inch tri cap x 1/4"fnpt reducer/adapter and use a 14mm 1:10 taper drill bit, which is hopefully a thing.

Ive got another idea that is just a 1/4 thick glass disk 70 or 86mm dia, with three ground joints, two on top and one on the bottom connected to a top one. The bottom one will need a clip to hold custom downstems on, the top joint its connected to obviously goes to the bowl/nail. The second top joint is for a removable mouth piece. The disk could then be placed on and used with any standard mason jar if you had a gasket. Key is you could swap out sweet downstems as well as its super cheap.

Sunfire · Sep 3, 2015

It could be as easy as using a nylon gasket on the end cap and and down stem that has a ground joint fitting on it.

This actually sounds awesome! I got some old thin wall sight glasses that I replaced with thicker ones. The ss looks so sexy!

They do have bits for doing glass on glass, but Idk if they can handle drilling out metal, the ones I know of are made for glass and that's how the sink a female ground joint fitting into big soft glass tubes, I've personally seen it done and know for a fact they exist in just not sure ablut using them for metal.

This is inspiring man, I want to make one now!

pusbag · Sep 3, 2015

Dabadoo indestructible dab rigs

Dabadoo indestructible dab rigs

So we manufacture these indestructible dab rigs from stainless steel spool pieces and titanium nail. They come with a lifetime no bullshit guarantee and are $200. Started making these after breaking dab rig #3 best investment I've made lately. So easy to clean and get your reclaim back. Plus sexy like our extractors. Hit me up if you want one. Will posts pics once I get on my laptop.

Pangea · Sep 3, 2015

Sounds nice pusbag, post em up!

There are a few "glass stem diffusers" to chose from that have ground glass male joints on the bottom to fit into female joint on the rig with female or male top joints

wholesale-high-quality-glass-downstem-diffuser-with.png

, I think they make em for higher end herb bongs, like roors as there are few knock offs with roor logo's on em. Anyway, overseas they are a couple bucks to a couple bits depending, so pretty darn cheap, and if one goes around the middletailers her for the triclamps it should work out to be a solid unit for very reasonable price.

I was thinking one could configure it with a 10" or 12" bottom plate so that it could never budge, large dog proof.

I did a quick google for tapered drill bits and didnt find anything I liked, but im sure any machine shop could do it in a jiffy.

Gray Wolf · Sep 4, 2015

Pangea said:
Hey all,

Has anyone converted any of their triclamp parts to a rig?

I have a 1.5" sight glass that I dont use and have been thinking about converting it to a rig.

From the bottom up:
I will get a 1.5" - 3" end cap reducer with the opening welded shut for the base. It will be clamped to the sight glass.
Atop the sight glass will be a T spool.
The side t port arm will go to the mouth piece.

The top of the T will be a end cap, this is where I plan to have the joint connection for the bowl/nail and is part I cant quite figure out.

The 1.5" end cap should have a metal to glass ground joint, the problem is I cant find any metal ground joints to attach to the lid cap.

I plan on using a removable downstem into this connection.

I like the idea because its sturdy, strong and easily cleanable. One can customize it many ways as well. Instead of a T above the sight glass one could but a cross in for multiple mouth pieces.

Any thoughts on the rig or help figuring out the glass to metal transition are welcome.

Hee, hee, hee, someone is building one out of stainless triclamp parts, but not sure who.

I've only seen two of them, but they worked and were sturdy enough to drive nails with, so should last a lifetime.

pusbag · Sep 4, 2015

Dab rig pics

Dab rig pics

Ahh yes you got to see a prototype at my last visit to the pharm greywolf. Thanks for all your efforts.

MEMED · Sep 4, 2015

those are awesome! Thanks for sharing

ever thinkabout damascusizn' em??

Sunfire · Sep 5, 2015

pusbag said:
Ahh yes you got to see a prototype at my last visit to the pharm greywolf. Thanks for all your efforts.

Those look fun indeed, but I was picturing something much different. Pangea suggesting using an inline sight glass, of which I have 2 extras, is what really made go "ahhhh." I was gonna use them with a 1x48 spool to make a super sexy heavy staff and drop a bunch of L wire in each sight glass to get a safer and smoke free show going.

But now I'm thinking otherwise...

Pangea - talked to my friend, he said you don't want to use the glass drilling tapered bits cause they are diamond tipped and cost hundreds each. He said he has seen ones for metal but can't remember where. We both agreed that a simple nylon gasket, how he used to sink hard glass stems into his soft glass pieces. Would be the easiest and most economical way. I gotta go fetch my spare parts and order some new ones. I'll be back to post pics, may be weeks though.

Pangea · Sep 5, 2015

Those look sweet pusbag, and surely are indestructible! Do you offer an upgrade to high pressure clamps

Im with sunfire on this one, I accidentally ordered a sightglass with silicone seals way back and have been staring at it trying to figure out how to rig it up for awhile now.

I also like the idea of being able to use standard pieces and swaping 'em and twist 'em to different configurations.

Sunfire what is L wire and how does it make it safer and smoke free?!
I have some 36"x2" spools I was thinking of using for a long bong too.

If one didnt want to have the bottom piece welded special to hold water you could hook up a ball valve between a end cap x npt or a ball valve with tri clamp ends, but it will sacrifice some sturdiness with smaller dia endcaps and increase the over all height a bit.

I think I can picture the nylon gasket, but just dont have much experience with em, my concern would be sturdiness, I picture the gasket/downstem kinda having wiggle/wobbling with a drop down and enail weighing on it, but hopefully not.

Im seeing if Kingstone can drill em out to spec.

Sunfire · Sep 6, 2015

L wire is light wire. It's light up wire. Was going to make a spinning staff that had L wire in the sight glasses at the ends as opposed to kevlar, fuel, and flames (fire spinning). Not smoking related at all lol!!!

I was just gonna go 1.5x6" end cap reducer with a 6" cap and clamp at the bottom for super heavy and sturdy base.

the grommet is like a sleave. Just google "bong grommet" and then look at the images. If done right it will be tight and won't wiggle at all.

pusbag · Sep 6, 2015

Larger rigs

Larger rigs

So we've been making these for awhile now and our boilermaker model is made from 1 1/2 tube and a 2" base. It has a lot of volume and I don't think going bigger is going to work out so hot. A 4 foot bong for weed is one thing but a 4 foot dab rig would be a joke imho. Most people who draw off the boilermaker agree any bigger isn't better. There is no reason why a sight glass could be encorporated into it. Just remember about volume. Yes I could offer it with high pressure clamps but why ? I don't want to need a wrench to clean my rig.

Pangea · Sep 6, 2015

I agree about volume and rig size, usually the smaller the better for oils, facy percs and diffusers etc also seem to hamper the experience. Like you said larger sizes are good for herbs.

Just noticed how it would change the look of the rigs by using a high pressure clamp vs reg, just an aesthetic thang, options are good. I doubt you'd need to tighten the bolts more than finger tight, too.

Making progress with the custom cap ground joint from china, they have provided a schematic based on my descriptions and references that has the right dimensions, so just need to get em to make a couple and test'em out!

Ive also found a nylon grommet bushing with NPT outside and smooth inside that may fit a 14mm joint but its not tapered and is 14.7mm which may be to large.

Light wire eh, not sure what your talking about with fire spinning but it sounds cool!

Sunfire · Sep 6, 2015

The sight glass would be full of water and not effect the overall volume of vape. It would jist look really cool. I was thinking of using 1" pipe with 1.5" triclamp to reduce weight and volume. My material lost also includes butterfly clamps, not HP. Just through glacier one could be done how I imagine for 300 but I already have the sight glasses and other parts and can get away with less than 200 I think. Importing from china in bulk can half that number I'm sure.

Sunfire · Sep 6, 2015

Base -> sight glass -> T -> cap. Then off side arm of T -> elbow -> 6-12" spool -> npt cap with mouth piece.

Pangea · Sep 7, 2015

Got the econo rig kinda figured out,
using a
> 125ml mason jar as the base
> a 2"x1"triclamp concentric reducer w/ 1/4" npt nip port (this fits on standard jars with their respective lid band, but will need a custom thin gasket that is slightly larger than the average 2" viton.)
> custom 1.5" tri lid(metal ground joint on the top for the bowl/nail/swing!
> 1/4 elbow 90 to a 1/4"nipple with end slighly bent(or not) for the mouth piece!

Mini rig on the go.

Hoping to have a pic of the cnc'd lid when I wake up, those guys dont miss a beat.

If the pricing has similar metrics to other items, I would imagine the lid with metal ground joint would be around $10-15usd. The c reducer is $25 on glacier and a nipple is $5-10. and a gasket will be cheap. Not to shabby, probably 1/3 - 1/4 the price of a rig with a sight glass and base.

No one borrow this one please, had a cool idea... how about the guts of an enail in a 2"x8" spool, also mounted on the base cap to the side of the rig. On the top of the enail spool would be a tri-npt cap with a "pressure gauge" that has the enail temps! There would be a "recovery nipple" on the top of the spool that is connected to the enail cord, and a "vacuum nipple" on the bottom for power cord.

I'm going to offer these types of units along side and separate from my other wares.

PS: Theres good tri lids to hose nipple that would be perfect for hookah type hose smoking.

Ras Mason · Sep 7, 2015

Woe Bro, i was back-reading this thread like good old Aleister C. thought me until i found out you guys are actually talking about that kinda rigs...thanks.
havent laughed like that in a minute.feels good.
RM

Sunfire · Sep 7, 2015

I'm lost on the enail concept. For sure that'd cost a lot less, but wouldn't be as SS sexy hehehehe.

Pangea · Sep 7, 2015

The enail concept is separate from the econo jar rig, the enail rig would be a pricier addition.

The concept is basically using a small spool as the enail housing/box mounted vertically beside the rig on the same base , and have it look like the welded recovery tree from a terp design.

Tri-Clamp Vape Rig

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