Well I mean what strains are you running out there? I ask because I wanna suggest some that you may not have that are mold resistant and bred for those climates...
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Well I mean what strains are you running out there? I ask because I wanna suggest some that you may not have that are mold resistant and bred for those climates...
This run is a strain from Kauai, Molokai Frost crosses we made, Puna Budder x SC and HB, BSHW x HB, Djs True Blue, Afgooey x Purepurea T, C99, Hawaiian Hashplant testers from Bodhi, NL5, Blackberry Spacewreck from Snow High, Chem 4 x Jack Frost/Nl1, Flo xs we made and a couple more i am forgetting.
I make seeds every run and am always looking for guys who breed outdoors with heirlooms and well worked lines. I'd like to hear what has worked for you.
I make seeds every run and am always looking for guys who breed outdoors with heirlooms and well worked lines. I'd like to hear what has worked for you.
GEMiNi GENETiCS
Member
Thanks bro! Likewise!
Have you done anything over the winter to prep for your season? I've been on google earth all week scouting for spots to explore on foot once the snow melts
All my work is done till March when the snow melts .... I'm too urban with my plots so I can't go near them in the winter due to tracks. But I'm stocking up supplies ... building a lot of bottom-less tubes (18" dia x 24"h) for the swamps ... got a 20 acre swamp to drop 10-15 into and a 400acre swamp to drop as many as possible.
That line sounds quite exotic!!
Very interesting... the strains I use in the north east are chosen for mold resistance since September brings with it a lot of rainfall.
I have had repeated success (no mold) with the following strains:
-Church
-Blue Widow
-Blueberry Headband
Kygiacomo!!!
AppAlachiAn OutLaW
i have had great success with delahaze at 37.5 lat..its a monster producer as well of top shelf smoke
Great thread, and thank you Gunnaknow for that post https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6608296&postcount=185
Also I am glad Gunna added that info to Team Microbe's post, essentially you made the concept well rounded.
I lose a minimum 10% to budrot every outdoor grow. It's usually a good 25%+ and a few years it was well over 75%. Northeast America isn't super kind and dry in autumn.
I think this thread has made some good points.
1) Prevention : It Can Work Well.
Location and Genetics are the first and foremost factors in the budrot gamble... Your growspot's qualities and your plant's growth habits are what dictate success most of the time in OD growing.
Observe nature's patterns and flows, learn from it, then apply the knowledge via choosing plots with better morning sun + complimentary water/vapor and airflow cycles...
Genetics - well, an actual Who is Who of strains that resist or are susceptible - is still up for debate and research. This and many other threads have great info though.
Healthy Soil - the more alive and balanced your soil is, and the more amendments you use that directly relate to cell structure/integrity, the healthier and resistant your plants will be to budrot fungi.
2) Treatment : Preventative treatments of Bicarbonates (baking soda aka sodium bicarbonate & potassium bicarbonate aka greencure) apparently work in most grower's situations to prevent bud rot. It also apparently works on already infected plants to kill budrot/botrytis (NOT Powdery Mildew) and to prevent further growth.
The milk treatment is for Powdery Mildew not Bud Rot.
3) Plant Damage : is usually what initiates infections that lead to budrot. Keep the bugs off.
4) Using Waste : sometimes the harvest appears completely ruined - but it doesn't necessarily have to be. When harvesting/trimming you can cut or burn out the majority of the moldy rotten bits. I've done this alot lol ... However, small almost-invisible amounts of mold are still on the buds you salvage and can cause problems in curing (it can spread) and can cause discomfort or even health problems if ingested/smoked.
I very much like the idea of quick drying that salvage, and making a solvent based hash (solvents should kill almost all the spores and mycelium)... or making ice hash to wash away most of the water soluble rotten moldy bullsh** from your still nice trichomes.
That's all fine and dandy, and helps one understand what we're working with....but let's get real. The majority of pot growers do not have the option or ability to grow in idealistic conditions and constantly maintain their plants... and those that do couldn't care less about this topic because it's irrelevant to their already stellar healthy plants.
In fact I make a living from growing in sub-par conditions because they are the only safe places to grow around here.
So, we are stuck in an eddy of struggle - how do we break the cycle and cheat nature on this one?
Are there any Systemic Fungicides that will prevent fungus/budrot from growing 100% No Matter What?
A quick search shows Eagle20 - anyone every use this for Botrytis/Budrot? Apparently it can (or atleast almost) eliminate Powdery Mildew from a plants system. If it's that strong of a fungicide, could it keep sopping wet buds from rotting?
I would imagine that if it does work, it would be potentially toxic/dangerous to the smoker of resulting herb... for the same reason I wouldn't smoke from plants that had been treated with colchicine.
However if you are not an Organic type of person and really don't care/believe that - a systemic fungicide could Potentially be a sure fire way of guaranteeing a Rot-Proof plant aka an almost guaranteed harvest... and that speaks loudly to some folks who are in this for the $$$
I'd love to hear peoples thoughts/experience on the systemic fungicides idea.
I had not even heard of Greencure until I started reading this thread earlier today. I will definitely give it a shot this season, I would be so ecstatic and thankful if it really works in the northern swamps.
Also I am glad Gunna added that info to Team Microbe's post, essentially you made the concept well rounded.
I lose a minimum 10% to budrot every outdoor grow. It's usually a good 25%+ and a few years it was well over 75%. Northeast America isn't super kind and dry in autumn.
I think this thread has made some good points.
1) Prevention : It Can Work Well.
Location and Genetics are the first and foremost factors in the budrot gamble... Your growspot's qualities and your plant's growth habits are what dictate success most of the time in OD growing.
Observe nature's patterns and flows, learn from it, then apply the knowledge via choosing plots with better morning sun + complimentary water/vapor and airflow cycles...
Genetics - well, an actual Who is Who of strains that resist or are susceptible - is still up for debate and research. This and many other threads have great info though.
Healthy Soil - the more alive and balanced your soil is, and the more amendments you use that directly relate to cell structure/integrity, the healthier and resistant your plants will be to budrot fungi.
2) Treatment : Preventative treatments of Bicarbonates (baking soda aka sodium bicarbonate & potassium bicarbonate aka greencure) apparently work in most grower's situations to prevent bud rot. It also apparently works on already infected plants to kill budrot/botrytis (NOT Powdery Mildew) and to prevent further growth.
The milk treatment is for Powdery Mildew not Bud Rot.
3) Plant Damage : is usually what initiates infections that lead to budrot. Keep the bugs off.
4) Using Waste : sometimes the harvest appears completely ruined - but it doesn't necessarily have to be. When harvesting/trimming you can cut or burn out the majority of the moldy rotten bits. I've done this alot lol ... However, small almost-invisible amounts of mold are still on the buds you salvage and can cause problems in curing (it can spread) and can cause discomfort or even health problems if ingested/smoked.
I very much like the idea of quick drying that salvage, and making a solvent based hash (solvents should kill almost all the spores and mycelium)... or making ice hash to wash away most of the water soluble rotten moldy bullsh** from your still nice trichomes.
That's all fine and dandy, and helps one understand what we're working with....but let's get real. The majority of pot growers do not have the option or ability to grow in idealistic conditions and constantly maintain their plants... and those that do couldn't care less about this topic because it's irrelevant to their already stellar healthy plants.
In fact I make a living from growing in sub-par conditions because they are the only safe places to grow around here.
So, we are stuck in an eddy of struggle - how do we break the cycle and cheat nature on this one?
Are there any Systemic Fungicides that will prevent fungus/budrot from growing 100% No Matter What?
A quick search shows Eagle20 - anyone every use this for Botrytis/Budrot? Apparently it can (or atleast almost) eliminate Powdery Mildew from a plants system. If it's that strong of a fungicide, could it keep sopping wet buds from rotting?
I would imagine that if it does work, it would be potentially toxic/dangerous to the smoker of resulting herb... for the same reason I wouldn't smoke from plants that had been treated with colchicine.
However if you are not an Organic type of person and really don't care/believe that - a systemic fungicide could Potentially be a sure fire way of guaranteeing a Rot-Proof plant aka an almost guaranteed harvest... and that speaks loudly to some folks who are in this for the $$$
I'd love to hear peoples thoughts/experience on the systemic fungicides idea.
I had not even heard of Greencure until I started reading this thread earlier today. I will definitely give it a shot this season, I would be so ecstatic and thankful if it really works in the northern swamps.
If your breeding and or popping seeds. Look for thin stem phenos, the thinner the better.
Some serious outdoor growers gave me that tip a good 15 years ago, I still use it. Was priceless.
Better to have to cage/prop/stake up a floppy plant, then to have a stiff moldy one.
Trainwreck was a very mold resistant floppy monster. Thin vine like stems, with nice little dank flowers spread out along the stem. Opposed to a large stacked thick cola, which rots before it finish's.
Have a Blackberry Kush x Blue Dream, hybrid that I use to grow. Around 75% of the phenos had thick stems, pole structure, always rotted. The other 25% though... thin floppers covered in small dank hazey goodness. I stopped growing it because loosing 3 out of 4 plants was harsh. Although if you can cut clones or try to stabilize that trait, the thin stem ones were good.... might have to grow some this year.
Mr^^
Some serious outdoor growers gave me that tip a good 15 years ago, I still use it. Was priceless.
Better to have to cage/prop/stake up a floppy plant, then to have a stiff moldy one.
Trainwreck was a very mold resistant floppy monster. Thin vine like stems, with nice little dank flowers spread out along the stem. Opposed to a large stacked thick cola, which rots before it finish's.
Have a Blackberry Kush x Blue Dream, hybrid that I use to grow. Around 75% of the phenos had thick stems, pole structure, always rotted. The other 25% though... thin floppers covered in small dank hazey goodness. I stopped growing it because loosing 3 out of 4 plants was harsh. Although if you can cut clones or try to stabilize that trait, the thin stem ones were good.... might have to grow some this year.
Mr^^
