creeper's out of the closet

Creeperpark · Feb 21, 2019

over water issue

over water issue

I over watered two pots, one time only, to show how over watering can kill a plant quick in a high EC ppm mix vs one watered correctly.

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Creeperpark · Feb 21, 2019

Watering in a high EC!

Watering in a high EC!

The very first question I ask is, what is my starting watering schedule for high EC mix?
Very Important! Germinate seeds then wait 7 to 14 days to water again. Very Important!
I weigh each solo cup before I water it. Nothing gets watered before weighing (so simple).
I take my turkey baster and put one plunger (50ml) of water in the bottom of a plastic cup.
I sit the solo plant with holes in the bottom into the (50ml) of water and bottom water. (Finished).
That’s how I start & grow seeds in a High EC 6.8 or ppm 3400. I call them Loaded Guerrilla Rounds.
To find the perfect weight, just weigh dry, and then weigh wet, and you have your weight range.
This watering method also reduces temporary water wilt, and without nutrient loss AT ALL.

Creeperpark · Feb 23, 2019

my pissed off opinion

my pissed off opinion

my pissed off opinion
You know what pisses me off, more than anything these days. Watching on forums, newbie’s spending lots of money on nutrients, lights, tent, soil and most of all GOOD SEEDS, only to waste it, because they don’t know what they’re doing. Then, "some stupid mother fucker" tells them to put cal-mag on their grow, to fix it. I see it all the time! I wonder if people selling that stuff takes advantage of people. This is my last grow, it’s for the newbie! I think this is the easiest kind of grow! For anyone wanting to learn? photos coming

Creeperpark · Feb 23, 2019

30 days from planting seed

30 days from planting seed

Just rain water with 1mi of cal-mag. per gallon(4liter) Only used two gallons of rain water since sprout.

Creeperpark · Feb 24, 2019

rain water update

rain water update

I've had to bring up the cal-mag dose to 2 mi per gallon. Rain pH dropped a little. I've been using rain water for many many years. The only reason I chose rain 1st over all other water sources is because rain water is the best and easiest to work with for me. I've used them all!!!

Creeperpark · Feb 24, 2019

busting some big myths

busting some big myths

I'm going to be stepping on people's feet again big time!

Rather than talking about it, I will just show you!

I see lies being passed on to people, in the grow world that just aren't true!

No need to talk about it now!
I'll just prove it, by busting a couple of big myths in this grow!

I've already busted one myth, (can't use rain indoors myth)

Creeperpark · Feb 24, 2019

I've busted two myths (shouldn't start seeds in high EC soil myth)! Been doing it for years.

Creeperpark · Feb 26, 2019

moving up to LED

moving up to LED

Taking a little longer than I expected. Mostly roots are growing now.

Creeperpark · Feb 28, 2019

Plants are now taking rain water at full capacity. Found a couple of males, 8 more to go!
Rain water is now at 10 mls per 24L or 6 gal. with cal-mag dose. WATER ONLY

Creeperpark · Mar 2, 2019

going full synthetic soon

going full synthetic soon

I copied and pasted from out door thread.
I ain’t no expert, just a beginner, but, I want to share something I learned. All bottle nutrients are going to have an effect on the pH of the substrate. Why? When plants take up fertilizer, they emit hydrogen and hydroxyl/bicarbonate ions into the growing medium! Most especially nitrogen!! There’s 3 different kinds of nitrogen: (nitrate), (ammonium), and (urea). Each one of them do something different to the pH. When Nitrate nitrogen is taken up by the plants, it release OH or bicarbonate in the substrate and will raise pH. When plants take ammonium nitrogen in, the plant releases H and drops the pH. Urea doesn’t do anything to the pH at first, but, the bacteria in the substrate will transform the Urea to either of the two, and then raise or lower the pH in time, that’s called nitrification. The larger the plant, the more fertilizer is used and therefore the faster the PLANT can change the pH of the growing medium.
Calcium can be locked out because pH drop from excess ammonium nitrogen. I see what looks like growers adding calmag+ especially calmag with Nitrate nitrogen to fix it, which doesn’t work very well. Almost kill the grow, start over, and do the same thing again not knowing it was the ammonium that was causing the calcium problem.
If I started with a complete substrate in beginning, and see calmag deficiencies in a grow, then, most of the time, the plants were fed too early and it’s just the drop of the pH due to high ammonium nitrogen. I moved to using low dose feeds during veg and flowering..

Creeperpark · Mar 2, 2019

A nitrogen molecule is a nitrogen molecule and it doesn’t matter if it is pH perfect, or general pH nutrients. Also a nitrogen molecule that comes from Organic source is the same as a nitrogen molecule that comes from synthetic source when the plant uptake processes are final. The only difference between the 3 types of nitrogen is the way it becomes available and how it effects the pH.

Creeperpark · Mar 2, 2019

back to the 2 over-watered pots

back to the 2 over-watered pots

Here are those same two plants from up above, brought back from the dead, with another plant that was germinated at the same time. Same genetics. Over-water them one time its taken all this time to recover. The over-watering error costed me that much growth.

Creeperpark · Mar 2, 2019

catching 40% extra light

catching 40% extra light

Poor mans money saving light reflection. Works like crazy!!! Notice the difference in light from the shade side vs the bright side on the first photo

Creeperpark · Mar 3, 2019

fixing to kick ass

fixing to kick ass

6 females out of 10

Creeperpark · Mar 3, 2019

shucking males

shucking males

I going to hold on to the males, but segregate them away from any females. Going to make a very few seeds to stabilize my females later in the grow.

Creeperpark · Mar 3, 2019

Forgot to mention up-potted to 1 gal (4L) pot. Will up- pot to a 5 gal (20L) in about 10 days. Then change from organic to synthetic low dose feed using GH nute.

mr.brunch · Mar 3, 2019

Nice thread mate, I’m in :tiphat:

Creeperpark · Mar 4, 2019

thanks mr brunch

Creeperpark · Mar 6, 2019

organic is so slow

organic is so slow

The up-potting to 1 gal pots, helped to speed up the grow a little but still slow. I love rain water organic grows! Best smelling and tasting buds. However, its as slow as a one legged dog in water. That's one reason for the upcoming switch from organic to synthetic! Getting ready for the switch! Plants are already stinking!

photo period is 20hr on 4hr off.
Just rain water with a little cal-mag only, since the beginning of seed sprout.

Creeperpark · Mar 7, 2019

A fork in the road

A fork in the road

I have 2 choice’s at this point. I can keep growing organic rain water only , or switch to synthetic nutrient feed. Since, I want to speed things up and maximize root growth for stinky sticky buds. I’m going to switch from organic to synthetic. Time to start using my finishing substrate. Peat mix with MYCORRHIZAE.

If I were to keep going with organic mix, I would have to DROP the cal-mag and only run plane rain water. The problem with using calmag in a complete organic mix is the accumulation of hydroxyl/bicarbonate ions into the growing medium. Remember that each ion has its own chemical and physical property. Each one affects soil and plants differently and some ions are more toxic to plants than others. The accumulative effect of calcium will kill the microbe population as well as cause an imbalance of nutrients which will eventually cause nutrient lock-out. .

creeper's out of the closet

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