Drop That Sound
Well-known member
1760 watts for $80.
45 day money back, and a 12 month warranty, lol.
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Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons
- Thread starter blynx
- Start date
1760 watts for $80.
45 day money back, and a 12 month warranty, lol.
Drop That Sound
Well-known member
That's how cheap LEDs should be anyway. Not $1-3 per watt.
Ca++
Well-known member
It is cheap, but I suggest a little caution. My first build was 100lm/w like these, and it just showed me I should buy better.
The lamps in this thread have reached double this efficiency now. As have most branded grow lights. So comparatively, these use double the electric, to make the same amount of light. Beside a 301 based lamp, this set of 8, would use an extra unit per hour. Units are not cheap. In the UK, maybe 35p. £4 in 12 hours, making heat. £30 a week. £120 per month. Per 9 week bloom, these might use £250 they didn't need to. This is real money over a 5 year expectancy. £7500 spent on heating you probably don't want.
The lamps in this thread have reached double this efficiency now. As have most branded grow lights. So comparatively, these use double the electric, to make the same amount of light. Beside a 301 based lamp, this set of 8, would use an extra unit per hour. Units are not cheap. In the UK, maybe 35p. £4 in 12 hours, making heat. £30 a week. £120 per month. Per 9 week bloom, these might use £250 they didn't need to. This is real money over a 5 year expectancy. £7500 spent on heating you probably don't want.
350W... I hope you're yielding more than 500g dry from those watts. I use 200w~ for 300 - 400g dry.
PCBuds
Well-known member
I didn't bother weighing my last plant.
It did fill two 1 gallon jars though.
I lost interest in keeping track of all the numbers (PH, TDS, Lumens, Watts, tsp, grams, And Especially RH)
This is the power I was using for that plant,..
The plant before that was over a pound, but I think that I was using closer to 450 Watts for that plant?
These are the specs. for my LED strips,..
Diary - PCBuds mini-grow
The 450 was just as they needed a rest, to get back on form. Life begins at 600 imo 180lm/w is about 2.4umol/w I think. I would have to look at some examples. Everything measured as LUX, falls within PAR, so it's a reliable way forward. Though that would just say 252x2.4=605umol. Which over a...
www.icmag.com
PCBuds
Well-known member
Here it is,..
Diary - PCBuds mini-grow
12 weeks, how much patience, your efforts will never be well rewarded ... I don't mind. I've still got tons from my last plant. I'm growing this one for a freind and he wants a couch lock type of buzz. I've found that my plants have more of a 🛋 🔒 feel the longer I grow them out.
www.icmag.com
Drop That Sound
Well-known member
I think I figured out how to make cheap copper edge cooled SIL pcb water blocks. Found these 1-1/2 copper test caps with inside diameter that accepts 1-5/8" OD pipe. $2 a piece. 
Guess what diameter the circular PCB chips in most of my SILs are? Yep, you guessed it, they are exactly 1-5/8"!
I may have to spin the PCBs around the grinder wheel and shave off a hair, but they should slide right into the test caps. The test caps have the wall going around, which I think will make it easay to bend some soft 3/8 copper HVAC tubing around, and get a braze joint on both the top and bottom, and get almost or maybe the full 360 degrees of piping going around the LEDS, for the best transfer of heat away from the components.. I think the wall going around the cap (which will be upside down) will help hold even more heat, like an upside down bowl.
With about 6-7 inches of the copper tubing wrapped\soldered around, it should cost less than $3.50 in materials for each block, including the copper brazing rod.
Something like this:
Guess what diameter the circular PCB chips in most of my SILs are? Yep, you guessed it, they are exactly 1-5/8"!
I may have to spin the PCBs around the grinder wheel and shave off a hair, but they should slide right into the test caps. The test caps have the wall going around, which I think will make it easay to bend some soft 3/8 copper HVAC tubing around, and get a braze joint on both the top and bottom, and get almost or maybe the full 360 degrees of piping going around the LEDS, for the best transfer of heat away from the components.. I think the wall going around the cap (which will be upside down) will help hold even more heat, like an upside down bowl.
With about 6-7 inches of the copper tubing wrapped\soldered around, it should cost less than $3.50 in materials for each block, including the copper brazing rod.
Something like this:
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Drop That Sound
Well-known member
I still like the rigid dual tube flat bar water cooled rails that look like a ladder idea, but.. I'm currently working on a 24 bulb SIL fixture that already has a fixed frame with sockets, so yeah.. I need single individual water blocks to finish this project up first, before I start workin on those edge cooled ladder rails for my next 2 lights.
