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This will be my set up — Change my mind.

Sans.Lacunes

New member
More diodes cost more but you can run them at lower current. Lower current means less heat and more light per diode.

If you are getting strips you can run them at a higher current to start. Then latter add more strips and reduce the current. That would get you into LEDs a little cheaper to start and let you build over time. You just need to get a driver that you can do this with. One that you can drive at a lower current latter. Or one that can be split between several strips latter.

I took a peek at your profile and understand that you build your own led, could you tell me if this set up would be a good choice for a 3x3 tent?

Parts list:
5x Samsung LT-F564B 2′ Strips ($133)

1x Mean Well HLG-320H-48B Driver ($93)

1x 100K Ohm Potentiometer for Dimming ($7)

1x Resistor for Potentiometer ($6) Note- resistor is only required if your potentiometer measures less than its rated resistance. Use a resistor in series to bring the pot up to its rated resistance.

(This is without the pieces needed for the frame/the heatsinks)

This is a design by ledgardener, and I'd like to know if there are better alternatives now.

I should be able to build this light for ~350$, maybe less
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
I took a peek at your profile and understand that you build your own led, could you tell me if this set up would be a good choice for a 3x3 tent?

Parts list:
5x Samsung LT-F564B 2′ Strips ($133)

1x Mean Well HLG-320H-48B Driver ($93)

1x 100K Ohm Potentiometer for Dimming ($7)

1x Resistor for Potentiometer ($6) Note- resistor is only required if your potentiometer measures less than its rated resistance. Use a resistor in series to bring the pot up to its rated resistance.

(This is without the pieces needed for the frame/the heatsinks)

This is a design by ledgardener, and I'd like to know if there are better alternatives now.

I should be able to build this light for ~350$, maybe less

Can you link to his set up so I can see more? It will be easier for me to tell with out doing a bunch of searches.
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
That plant was a Brotherhood OG from Karma Genetics from around 2013

All my soil mixes and related information can be found as stickied in the Stank Bros sub-forum. Get your soil right. Fine tune your environment. Set the garden on coast.

Hydro will never be easier. It will never produce more flavorful flowers.

Current grow is in an organic soil bed. Nothing but water.

picture.php



ABF Cobalt Haze @8wks

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These are under 2x 315w CMH. First round ever using CMH and I'll admit it's putting out much better flowers than I'd have expected possible. Much better than a 400w HPS, which is why I suggested you look at the 630w for your space. I'm in 2.5' x 5', so two fixtures worked better for me.



dank.Frank
 

SuperBadGrower

Active member
Can you link to his set up so I can see more? It will be easier for me to tell with out doing a bunch of searches.

http://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/
ctrl+F for 3’x3′ Grow Space Builds

The only thing I can think of to pimp that out is adding some of those cree XP-E (I think that's the name) far red diodes.
Otherwise I think this is pretty much one of the best builds currently.

Here's one of those strips, the reds are in the board here but you could use this as inspiration
Photo-Boost-photoshop.jpg


That's cool and pushing the envelope further.
In this thread I have linked another recent interesting presentation about infrared light and other aspects of indoor lighting. I think you will be interested, OP

In terms of efficiency, I don't know. But I know that you will have a fantastic grow with the ledgardener build. And that 168lm/w is certainly "up there". I'm looking to build this too. Let's forget PPFD for a second, my 315 CMH does about 32k lumens, shits heat, and meanwhile this 270w board could do 50k more evenly. It just makes you feel half stupid when you look at those numbers.
 

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