atticflowers
Member
Trying to find out if ima get any different results by jus changing out my bulbs from HPS to MH for flowering, i wanted to see if anyone before me got better results or notice anything different?
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MH vs HPS FINISH
- Thread starter atticflowers
- Start date
I've gone back and forth between 1000watt HPS & MH for the past two years. No major difference.
The HPS is a little cooler; so I use that in summer, MH in winter.
Different strains do seem to like a particular light.
The HPS is a little cooler; so I use that in summer, MH in winter.
Different strains do seem to like a particular light.
A mix works very well, and the new 10K Kelvin CMH are meant to bring on more resin in the last weeks, you change over from the 4K. Testing these soon hopefully.
You can get the 10k in regular 40mm ES fitting, 600w £40
I'd like to see some papers on this but from what I've come to understand:
HPS - more green growth & slightly more airy, stretchy structure when compared to MH.
MH - more compact with less green growth... More dense buds when compared to HPS.
BOTH BULBS will yield a similar amount of resins.
IF what is said is true then MH buds would be slightly more potent.
Consider also that my experience is also only using EYE Super HPS or EYE Hortilux Blue MH.
Also, consider that the EYE Horti Blue MH has the best PAR values for any MH lamp that I am aware of. It better than a lot of HPS bulbs and is my prefered id flowering bulb (at this point).
HPS - more green growth & slightly more airy, stretchy structure when compared to MH.
MH - more compact with less green growth... More dense buds when compared to HPS.
BOTH BULBS will yield a similar amount of resins.
IF what is said is true then MH buds would be slightly more potent.
Consider also that my experience is also only using EYE Super HPS or EYE Hortilux Blue MH.
Also, consider that the EYE Horti Blue MH has the best PAR values for any MH lamp that I am aware of. It better than a lot of HPS bulbs and is my prefered id flowering bulb (at this point).
Try starting and finishing under UVBs...with HPS during the rest.
These two 600w Plantmax MH lamps work on a HPS ballast and are the ones I use.
7.2k Kelvin bulb for the 1st few weeks in flower--
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/115289/PX-MS6007200.html
10k Kelvin bulb I use for the last few weeks in flower--
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/88311/PX-MPS60010K.html
Both are under $35 each--a fraction of the cost of Horti Blue. Which makes one wonder, which has greater PAR--a new Plantmax bulb vs a 2-3 month old Horti? In other words, is it better to replace Plantmax bulbs twice as often (4 times each year) or replace Horti bulbs twice a year? In my garden, my PAR meter indicated a brand new 600w Plantmax bulb produced more lumens than a 3 month old 600w Horti Blue.
Something to think about.
These two 600w Plantmax MH lamps work on a HPS ballast and are the ones I use.
7.2k Kelvin bulb for the 1st few weeks in flower--
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/115289/PX-MS6007200.html
10k Kelvin bulb I use for the last few weeks in flower--
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/88311/PX-MPS60010K.html
Both are under $35 each--a fraction of the cost of Horti Blue. Which makes one wonder, which has greater PAR--a new Plantmax bulb vs a 2-3 month old Horti? In other words, is it better to replace Plantmax bulbs twice as often (4 times each year) or replace Horti bulbs twice a year? In my garden, my PAR meter indicated a brand new 600w Plantmax bulb produced more lumens than a 3 month old 600w Horti Blue.
Something to think about.
CMH keeps the UV and the spectrum flowering.
MJ Passion seems a bit mixed up. MH is more like outdoor, more leafy. HPS has the spectrum for dense flower clusters. MH has a shorter life span and less Lumens. Not that lumens mean much these days.
I recall a comparison grow on OG. There was more weight under the MH. I do wonder how much of that was more larf. HPS is quicker as well. The main reason for switching to MH is the UV. Problem solved with CMH. Again, depends on your chosen method.
MJ Passion seems a bit mixed up. MH is more like outdoor, more leafy. HPS has the spectrum for dense flower clusters. MH has a shorter life span and less Lumens. Not that lumens mean much these days.
I recall a comparison grow on OG. There was more weight under the MH. I do wonder how much of that was more larf. HPS is quicker as well. The main reason for switching to MH is the UV. Problem solved with CMH. Again, depends on your chosen method.
Ask yourself these questions:
Why do I want to include a UVB light spectrum?
When is the best time to introduce UBV light spectrum?
How is plant growth affected by UVB light spectrum?
How is bud/flower development affected by UVB light spectrum?
How is trichome production affected by UVB light spectrum?
IMO, obtaining the answers to these questions will guide you accordingly. No need for the "blind to lead the blind".
Why do I want to include a UVB light spectrum?
When is the best time to introduce UBV light spectrum?
How is plant growth affected by UVB light spectrum?
How is bud/flower development affected by UVB light spectrum?
How is trichome production affected by UVB light spectrum?
IMO, obtaining the answers to these questions will guide you accordingly. No need for the "blind to lead the blind".
I'm NOT mixed up...
I'm speaking from MY experience!
What I said is WHAT I OBSERVED.
On more than one occasion.
Don't discount MY experience!
You don't seem to be speaking from EXPERIENCE, imo!
This excerpt might help--
And why UVB a few weeks before harvest?...."and in the end, the love you take, is equal to the love you make." That's why.
By imposing a degree of abiotic stress (UVBs combined with a strategic water deficit at the "end") causes the plant to react defensively ("the love I make")--reacting immediately with a predictable increase in production of cannabinoids and trichomes ("the love I take"...lol).
IMO, having high UVBs during development/growth of buds is a guaranteed larf generator.
And why UVB a few weeks before harvest?...."and in the end, the love you take, is equal to the love you make." That's why.
By imposing a degree of abiotic stress (UVBs combined with a strategic water deficit at the "end") causes the plant to react defensively ("the love I make")--reacting immediately with a predictable increase in production of cannabinoids and trichomes ("the love I take"...lol).
IMO, having high UVBs during development/growth of buds is a guaranteed larf generator.
MH for veg and flower in my garden. I find an increase in, and improvement of terpenes, better flavor, along with a slight decrease in density and yields.
I run the big Horti's, bare in vert setups and hooded at other times.
it's not the extra special $100 extra Horti just the big dual position regular one.
OGKB 2.0, the run that won the ICmag cup.
Thin Mint Cookies
using a cooled hood and 1000 MH behind glass in a 5x5 tent.
when the hype about switching between 3 bulbs started way back when, I bit and bought a set.
I think it's a great way to get you to spend more money on bulbs but I preferred the MH all the way through flower.
that 10,000 bulb for the last 2 weeks of flower sat in it's box for many years until I set up my basement grow in
Mass this year and had 2 runs with it on one side and a ushio MH on the other.
the 10K bulbs seems brighter and the plants on that side are louder but seem a bit less dense.
I'm using Sour Dubb to compare as she's the loudest girl in my collection, don't feel any difference when smoking the flowers, both sides are plenty loud.
I run the big Horti's, bare in vert setups and hooded at other times.
it's not the extra special $100 extra Horti just the big dual position regular one.
OGKB 2.0, the run that won the ICmag cup.
Thin Mint Cookies
using a cooled hood and 1000 MH behind glass in a 5x5 tent.
when the hype about switching between 3 bulbs started way back when, I bit and bought a set.
I think it's a great way to get you to spend more money on bulbs but I preferred the MH all the way through flower.
that 10,000 bulb for the last 2 weeks of flower sat in it's box for many years until I set up my basement grow in
Mass this year and had 2 runs with it on one side and a ushio MH on the other.
the 10K bulbs seems brighter and the plants on that side are louder but seem a bit less dense.
I'm using Sour Dubb to compare as she's the loudest girl in my collection, don't feel any difference when smoking the flowers, both sides are plenty loud.
Like you, Bro Science & Stoner Logic are two things I do not follow. That said, when a bud is grown under HPS is tight and rock hard (can easily pass the wall test)--then when a bud is grown under MH (no HPS) many growers have the same observation: The bud will be slightly larger but without any increase in weight...it is hard to attribute the change to "genetics", especially when the "MH" bud fails the wall test--whereas "HPS" bud does not.
BTW, to "pass" the wall test a bud thrown against the wall will bounce back...a "fail" is when it falls without bouncing.
How can this be? Perhaps the blue wave length is the culprit--due to the increase "vegetative" growth (while flowering/bud maturing) along with intense photosynthesis under a higher CO2 environment. Sounds logical to me.
FWIW...buds in my garden that finish under UVB for the last 2-3 weeks do not exhibit "larf" but are rock hard (easily pass the wall test).
For the "uninitiated", here is a little diddy about "larf
Now we all know...lol.
