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Old 02-27-2018, 07:13 PM #4031
EasyGoing
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Originally Posted by jidoka View Post
What I was trying to point out is the paradigm Age Old (and most all bottle companies use). Their Grow formula is 12-6-6 then their flower goes to 5-10-5.

If you were following that feed schedule and trying to keep your EC as high as you are you would quickly run into big problems caused by high nitrates...weak plants full of water.

By keeping the balance right from the start you are able to avoid this problem. The balance is what allows you to run the higher EC.

Look at the coco forums for the best example. You hear constant talk about low ECs... say 1-1.2. The reason they are so low is the fucked up balance they use. Mostly high N and K.

If they push that EC they get lockouts in the soil and plants that are bug magnets. By changing that balance I can push EC to at least 2.7

anyways....I am no fan of the age old micros so I don't use the product. I was just trying to point out that really high N and K vs P that most use.
How far have you pushed the ec in soil? I have one plant right now I am testing the limits on. Never gets lower than 1.2ec and maxes out at 1.7. Looks burnt though. I have been doubling the top dressing for an experiment.
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Old 02-27-2018, 07:35 PM #4032
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I use heavy volcanic soil outdoors with a LOS approach vs the Slow method. EC stays between 0.3-0.7. I am not the guy to ask about that one

My actual media ec in coco runs about 1.3
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Old 02-27-2018, 07:45 PM #4033
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Might buy a farm here that is on a volcanic butte. Thought it would be rich in minerals for sure. Thanks for the response.
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Old 02-27-2018, 07:52 PM #4034
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Old 02-28-2018, 01:28 PM #4035
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Originally Posted by orechron View Post
You can likely stop buying amf inoculants at that point. Those organisms exist in nature to help plants scavenge Phosphorus from low P soils. For example if you pull a sample from the mountains in the northern cascades you'll see 10ppm elemental P. Having amf infection and increased P uptake is a huge advantage in those soil conditions. The P availability comes at a price and the plant has to pay sugar to the fungus. In 1000ppm P soil the plants won't pay that price because the Phosphorus is more available and they can use that sugar for their own needs. The fungus will still try and infect the plant roots, but I remember reading studies showing that plants will shut them out. The same thing happens to rhizobium bacteria in high N soils.



I'm going t throw a pepper in my next indoor round just for you, but I know it will quickly be over grown in the grid and its going to be hard for me to sacrifice even 1 square foot. Cool idea.
I'm selfish in my mind like most and assume most have space to spare and run whatever they want BC I do.... Thanks for the reply, it's a good grounding perspective...

I bet it does benefit you though, mostly the first month from seed emergence
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Old 02-28-2018, 01:30 PM #4036
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Originally Posted by EasyGoing View Post
Might buy a farm here that is on a volcanic butte. Thought it would be rich in minerals for sure. Thanks for the response.
dig 20 holes for each acre at least (send away, mix as u wish to spend), spaced accordingly and deep.... BF u BUY
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Old 02-28-2018, 01:36 PM #4037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by growingcrazy View Post
I never find that N is a constant. I put N into a category by itself. Feeding N only to keep a desired visual leaf appearance... Just enough to keep ahead of any yellowing but not dark green.

Everything else in in balance with micros included. I don't like to top-dress N at all after flower has begun. Liquids take over for the next couple weeks.

Led, Are you making a new mix for each container you run? No recycled soil for the Cannabis?

Is Germany on vacation this month?
everything is recycled..... say a yard for in... 1/4th scooped out back, 1/4th peat mix, 1/4th verm & or perl, rest blend of whatever & amendments... those amendments go out back, come back in, out back, back in..... it's the only thing that's really new aside from perlite & vermiculite - I have a peat mound that's now as much castings as peat and or compost that is my peat source...

Feb, June, Sept & Dec I guess are off in the old countries these days, even Deutsche - Ridic.... Amazon spoiled
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Old 02-28-2018, 03:16 PM #4038
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When I bought the meter, those lame Germans were on "holiday" for weeks. Took forever to get the meter, and the dude selling it only sent one. I had bought SlowN one for his travels, but I guess in Germany, they have no desire to rush, or sell you your entire order. Sorry, great meter but super lame company.
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Old 02-28-2018, 03:33 PM #4039
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Originally Posted by led05 View Post
what type of scope are you using, what do you see dancing, please do tell - curious ?
Having a hard time finding my exact scope for you. However it's just a desktop model you would find in any highschool science class. It is 40 -1000x and it cost about 250$.

As for what I am hunting....... This might make slowN cringe......

I have a book that helps me identify bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes. The book name is Adding Biology For Soil and Hydroponics Systems by Elaine R. Ingham, phd and Carole Ann Rollins, PH.d. I also bought the poster pictured below, and they even signed my book. Bought the book maybe as much as 10 years ago at a max yield hydro show in San Francisco. However the book teaches you to recognize beneficial aerobic microorganisms, and anaerobic microorganisms. It even helps identify mycorrhizal fungi under the scope.


This is why I have a hard time when people tell me I killed my micro heard. Cause I can literally scope it, and I can ID beneficial microorganisms. Same goes with High P kills micros. It may, but with my high Ca, highly aerated soil, I think higher P levels can be obtained without killing the micro heard. In fact, I have been scoping my soil this entire run, and my ppm's of P started out over 1000 ppm, and the soil dances like a Los Vegas night club.




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Old 02-28-2018, 04:28 PM #4040
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Good old Elaine... as you are seeing, good fertilization has little to do with microbiology.

I would add that getting myco's into the root early is not so much for maximizing P uptake as it is to protect the root from bad microbiology.
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