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Ogre's DIY Ebb & Grow / Multi-Flow Controller Tutorial

OgreSeeker

Active member
Wow...been a while since I checked up on this thread??



b1vwrf13 said:
I have build the controller few weeks ago and it is being put to use since then. Works flawlessly.

The procedure is extremely well documented and illustrated. Many thanks to OgreSeeker and the individuals before him that have dedicated their time and effort to bring this tutorial to our community.

I would add a warning at the picture that says something like " that's exactly how your controller should look after installing the float valves". If you look at the picture it does not necessarily jump to all eyes that the two bottom valves are in the open position - hanging down - and the top ones are in the close position - completely vertical. It took me (I am probably a little bit dense) few hours, to figure it out, not before changing the two upper valves, redoing the connection two times etc.

The second element is that the electronic connectors color are there for a purpose, they match certain wire size, the yellows are for 10-12 wire size, the blue for 14-16 and the red for 18-22. Not often critical but using an oversize connector let say a blue connector for a wire size 22 - the float valve connector wire size would make for a loose connection.

Beside those two elements again a great tutorial, thanks again.

Awesome...that's the kind of feedback I wanted! You're right about both issues. The connector size is determined by wire size. I used what I had on hand and made sure that my crimps were tight but I would advise anyone considering this build to use proper size connectors.
And that picture of the floats should have been taken at a dif angle to show the position of the bottom floats.
I also need to add some pics and details about how to install those lil 90 degree elbow as an anti-siphon. These are easy to install and are a necessity(unless you enjoy flooding your house).
Thanks for pointing that out b1vwrf13!



onahah said:
I was wondering if this type of controller would be suitable to be used on a DWC system. I was also wondering if anyone could leave a link or a few pics about a RES. I read blazes tutorial on the recirculating DWC but he uses a different type of float switch and i already have the FLT231's so i wanted to go with a controller like this one.

Would i be able to build a exact one like this, but only use one pump, the one in the RES, and connect it to the outlet that gets triggered by the lower float switches to begin to fill the bucket untill it has reached the high switches? That way i only fill water when the buckets suck it up? Then the switches timer slots would all have to be pulled out so its constantly ready to pump water? Eh..?

I was actually just thinking, If i didnt want to flood/drain at certain times i wouldnt even need a timer would i?


What Apollo said.
 

Budweiser13

Active member
Ogre when we gonna see your controller in use. I have seen a lot of complaints about the store bought multiflows. Mostly the CAP ebb n gro model not the greentrees> Anyway thnaks for this again..... :rasta:
 

Indecent

Member
First of all Ogre thank you so much for taking the time to write this tutorial! It has been immensely helpful.

b1vwrf13 said:
IIf you look at the picture it does not necessarily jump to all eyes that the two bottom valves are in the open position - hanging down - and the top ones are in the close position - completely vertical. It took me (I am probably a little bit dense) few hours, to figure it out, not before changing the two upper valves, redoing the connection two times etc.

I am in complete agreement. I found every step of the tutorial very clear, but missed the orientation of the float switches and ended up spending several hours before it dawned on me. More careful wording in the instructions might save someone else the frustration.

OgreSeeker said:
I also need to add some pics and details about how to install those lil 90 degree elbow as an anti-siphon. These are easy to install and are a necessity(unless you enjoy flooding your house).

Please do!

In the meantime, can anyone provide some help as to how the elbows are used as an anti-siphon- where are they installed, how are they installed, etc?

Thanks!
 
I actually wondered this myself. I bought a used ebb n grow system and didn't see the special fitting for the anti siphon. I did however discover a elbow with a hole in it after I started the system lol but only later found out it was the anti-siphon elbow. I couldn't find much explanation on it anywhere and was curious how/where to use it. I never had a problem though with the system so I didn't worry about it. I am now about to set it up in my new grow room and would like to set it up right this time!
 

Indecent

Member
Just tried my system and there is definitely a siphon problem from the reservoir to the controller bucket.

There isn't a link to to where we can get the 90° barbs inserts and I wasn't able to find them anywhere online or locally. Even if no one knows how to use them, any idea where to get them?
 

Apollo11

Member
Indecent said:
Just tried my system and there is definitely a siphon problem from the reservoir to the controller bucket.

There isn't a link to to where we can get the 90° barbs inserts and I wasn't able to find them anywhere online or locally. Even if no one knows how to use them, any idea where to get them?

You can find them HERE.

Personally I prefer using a 'Tee' connector, you dont need to drill a hole.
 

OgreSeeker

Active member
Oh man...

I meant to address this issue a long time ago. I'm a lazy stoney motherF'er.
Gonna take some pics this weekend of how, why and where the anti siphon 90's (1/4" 90 degree elbows) are installed.
I should have taken care of this a long time ago. It's an easy install and takes only about one minute to complete.
If they are not installed then you may find yourself with a flooded room.
Thanks for reminding me. Peace!

Oh yeah...
looks like ICMAG went and got herself a facelift. When was the site updated?
 
Last edited:

MangoCat

Member
Thanks Ogre! I built your controller and it works perfectly with lamps plugged in for testing. I'm putting the rest of the system together next week w/ (8) 3 1/2 gallon buckets, so the siphon info will be right on time! Do you think I need a 55 gal res with the (8) 3 1/2 buckets or do you think I could comfortably get away with a 35 gal res?
 
M

manwithnoname

Ya i'm going to go ahead and say this post kicks major butt! quality work here Ogre :yes:

I wish that i had done more research before jumping in headfirst and blowing $500 for ebb and gro 12 bucket system. i am usually such a do-it-yourselfer. i cant wait to build this controller for a second system.

i guess other than not liking the cheap ass pumps that come with the CAP ebb and gro, i have not had any major issues. ie FLOODS :mad: sometimes i have to give a little tlc to one of the pumps(by smacking it around) to get it to work properly. i'm home all the time tho so i can keep close tabs on it otherwise i would just switch out the pumps for better ones.

for flood protection, just in case, i put down 2x4's and stapled down panda plastic to them to act as a large pool. gonna build a cheap pvc screen with fishing string this go-around. my yield last time was only about 1 oz per bucket, lot of stem and leaves, not much of the good stuff :(

hopefully, with scrog, 30 buckets, and 2k watts i will have more to show for it.

sorry, done ranting, just high as kite! Peace ebb and flow peeps
 

OgreSeeker

Active member
As promised I am posting pictures of the "anti-siphons" that need to be installed so you don't flood your room.
The install takes about two seconds and is simple as pie.
You will need a line punch as pictured below. It cost me $2.50 at Home Depot...




You will also need two 1/4" 90 degree plastic elbow. These are found in the drip irrigation section of your local hardware store...





You'll need to install these anti-siphon devices before you fire your system up for the 1st time.

1. Punch hole and install barb in the FEED LINE at the controller. Be sure the barb is above water level.






2. The other barb needs to be installed in the DRAIN LINE at the main reservoir. Keep the barb above water level.



These elbows work as anti siphon valves. When the pump kicks off these elbows allow air to be sucked into the line to prevent siphon. These are crucial to the proper operation of the ebb & grow / multi-flow system!

I'm baked...hope this helps.

Ogre
 

BadBoyAC

New member
As promised I am posting pictures of the "anti-siphons" that need to be installed so you don't flood your room.
The install takes about two seconds and is simple as pie.
You will need a line punch as pictured below. It cost me $2.50 at Home Depot...




You will also need two 1/4" 90 degree plastic elbow. These are found in the drip irrigation section of your local hardware store...





You'll need to install these anti-siphon devices before you fire your system up for the 1st time.

1. Punch hole and install barb in the FEED LINE at the controller. Be sure the barb is above water level.






2. The other barb needs to be installed in the DRAIN LINE at the main reservoir. Keep the barb above water level.



These elbows work as anti siphon valves. When the pump kicks off these elbows allow air to be sucked into the line to prevent siphon. These are crucial to the proper operation of the ebb & grow / multi-flow system!

I'm baked...hope this helps.

Ogre

But it also works without the siphon valves, or ???
 

MangoCat

Member
You must use the antisiphon if your fill / drain hoses terminate at a point that is underwater whenever your pump shuts off.
Say that your filling the controller from the reservoir and the controller gets full and the pump shuts off. If your fill line is underwater in the controller, the water may still keep running into the controller ( siphon ) after the pump in the reservoir turns off. The anti-siphon, above the waterline, relieves the suction in the line when the reservoir pump turns off.
 
Y

yamaha_1fan

so how should the float switches be mounted? Should they all they be hanging down/open when no water is in the bucket?
 

MangoCat

Member
Hey Yamaha Fan,
The bottom float switches hang down. The top float switches are straight out @ 90 degrees and bend up when the water level gets to the top. If you build this project it will all make perfect sense. I LOVE THIS SYSTEM; THANKS OGRE!!!
 

IKILL3RI

Member
OgreSeeker

Bravo just incredible. I'm building one right now so far so good. Lots of helpful info and tips. :) Thanks
 
Y

yamaha_1fan

I actually started it today. Mine is a little different in that I didnt use a project box. All my controls are mounted on a scrap of OSB and will go on the wall. Function is more important than form. I understand the top floats now. they should shut off the pump from the res when triggered.

I got it almost done. I got to the step where everything needs to be plugged into the timer and relay. But I printed the 1st page out (90+ pages in landscape) and took it with me and I couldnt read the pictures where he had everything labeled where to go. So next visit it should take 5 minutes to plug everything in and it should be good.
 
Y

yamaha_1fan

I finally got mine done. Had alot of other things to do as well. I went through hell trying to get that TA4079 timer, everybody was backordered. Then I started thinking, all I really needed was the double throw.

So I used a normal digital timer connected to a third relay. the relay is the same relay used for the switches. I couldnt find a SPDT at the local radio shack, so I just used one side, no biggie. I made a plug and wired #7 & 8 to the timer. That will control the relay. Everything that gets plugged to the relay side of the Diehl timer, gets wired to the third relay. I dont have it here, but one terminal is always hot, the other two get switched when the timer shuts on and off.

Diehl timer 35-60 with shipping.

Digital timer with relay $18
 
I finally got mine done. Had alot of other things to do as well. I went through hell trying to get that TA4079 timer, everybody was backordered. Then I started thinking, all I really needed was the double throw.

So I used a normal digital timer connected to a third relay. the relay is the same relay used for the switches. I couldnt find a SPDT at the local radio shack, so I just used one side, no biggie. I made a plug and wired #7 & 8 to the timer. That will control the relay. Everything that gets plugged to the relay side of the Diehl timer, gets wired to the third relay. I dont have it here, but one terminal is always hot, the other two get switched when the timer shuts on and off.

Diehl timer 35-60 with shipping.

Digital timer with relay $18

Holy shit, i am going to read this when i wake up sober because this sounds like the answer to my problems
 
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