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Organic Fanatic Collective

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
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heres some info for today,

A. 8. The Nitrogen Cycle and the Soil Food Web

A complete understanding of the nitrogen (N) cycle is necessary in order to comprehend why the soil foodweb is so important in being able to predict N cycling. Most people with little or no understanding of environmental microbiology do not do justice to the role of biology in N cycling. So, we need to go through this with most people.
Start with atmospheric N

The predominant form of N on this planet is nitrogen gas in the atmosphere. Seventy-five percent of the atmosphere is nitrogen gas, so the trick is getting that nitrogen into a form that plants can use.
N fixation

Back before life on Earth started, most of the N was fixed through the action of lightening, enough to get life started. After life started on earth, most of the nitrogen fixed is by microorganisms, and indeed, all N fixation requires the help of bacterial enzymes. Most people know about N-fixing bacterial genus, Rhizobium, on the roots of legumes. These bacteria make the plant form nodules to house them, allowing the bacteria to exclude oxygen, allowing the N-fixing enzymes to perform their function of converting N-gas into biomass.

But a number of other N-fixing bacteria abound in certain environments. Cyanobacteria form filaments, and are typically photosynthetic, so the bacteria fixing their own carbon from carbon dioxide also fix N inside those filaments, in many different extreme environments.

Free-living N-fixing bacteria, such as Azotobacter and Azospirillum, also fix N in the root systems of many different plants. The plant supplies the sugars that these bacteria need, in the amounts they need to perform N-fixation. So, while not truly symbionts, these bacteria usually are most active in the rhizosphere.
N is in bacterial biomass after N-fixation occurs

There is a mis-conception that Rhizobium, or the free-living N-fixing bacteria “dump” nitrate into the soil. They do no such thing. These bacteria require a great deal of energy to fix N. Fixed N does not get made into nitrate, or any other inorganic form of N. The bacteria fix N for themselves first, and is put into protein in the bacterium before anything else occurs. If the bacterial colony fixes enough N rapidly enough so the bacterial demand is met, then protein is provided to the plant, in the case of Rhizobium. The free-living bacteria are not in the plant, but in the rhizosphere, so all the fixed N remains tied up in bacterial biomass, in the form of protein mainly.

No inorganic N is dumped into the soil then, in this first step of fixing N. The plant may receive some N, but the plant isn’t going to give away N for no reason. Only when the plant dies will it lose N, and that N is in the dead plant litter, roots, seed, fruit, etc. This organic matter is elevated in protein N, but that form is not usable by other plants. It has to be decomposed by bacteria and fungi before anything else can happen.

No inorganic, plant-available N is released into soil through the process of N-fixation. The dominant form of fixed N is protein. How does that form of N get converted into ammonium, nitrite or nitrate?

Bacteria don’t die of old age in the soil. Neither do fungi. Empty hyphal strands may be left behind, but there is extremely little N in cellulose, or mannin, or chitin, or the other structural cell wall materials left behind as the empty tubes of fungal biomass. There is no evidence that in healthy soil any of these organisms die just because they get old. In lab cultures bacterial colonies will get old and the toxic metabolites that accumulate in the Petri dish will kill the bacteria in the colony. But that doesn’t happen in the real world. Water washes away the metabolites in the real world, or another kind of bacteria, or fungus, or other organisms eats that waste metabolite. So the colony doesn’t get stuck dying from it’s own excrement. The major reason bacteria or fungi die in soil is because someone eats them.
The Mineralization Step

Predator-prey interactions in soil are no different than in the aboveground world with cats and mice, hunting dogs and birds, tigers and water buffalo, lions and gazelle. Bacteria get eaten by protozoa, nematodes, earthworms, microarthropods, etc. When bacteria, with a C:N of 5 get eaten by a protozoan with a C:N of 30, possibly higher, then N, P, S, etc will be released in plant available forms.

If you are unfamiliar with these interactions, please read some of the reference materials in the reading list, or on Dr. Ingham’s list of publications, or attend some of her classes, or other soil ecologist classes.

When fungi are eaten by protozoa, nematodes, microarthropods and earthworms, N is released in a mineral form into the soil. The majority of this process of making plant-available N occurs in the rhizosphere of the plant. But mineralization occurs only because of biological processes.

Want to predict how much N will be mineralized? You have to understand how much N is being tied-up by the bacteria and fungi in non-leachable forms, how much will be leached and lost from the root system, and how much prey (bacteria and fungi) will be consumed by the predators (protozoa, nematodes, microarthropods, earthworms, etc). There are different flow rates for different organisms, so the relationship is not straightforward.

But if you do not understand biology, and do not know how much of whom is present, or how active they are, prediction of N-mineralization is impossible. It remains a black box, highly variable and head-scratching in its inability to be understood or predicted.
Initially N is in the form of ammonium

The predators of course release predominately ammonium, a nutrient that plants can take-up. But ammonium is not a good nutrient for ALL plant species. In general, ammonium is the right form of N for perennial plants, although all perennial plants that have been tested can take up nitrate and possibly a little nitrite as well.

But perennial plants growing with mostly nitrate in the root zone are HIGHLY prone to disease. Nitrate in high concentrations stresses these plants, and result in an never-ending battle with disease, requiring the use of high amounts of fungicide, nematode, antibiotic, and herbicide applications to combat the organisms being selected and enhanced by the high nitrate present.

Annual plants are best at using nitrate, although there is evidence that nitrate in high concentrations is harmful to continuing root function even with annuals. Annuals can take up ammonium, but generally help the equilibrium shift from ammonium to nitrate so the form of N they like is at least present, so they can preferentially take that form up.

How do you maintain ammonium as ammonium? Or convert it to nitrate?
Conversion to nitrite and then nitrate

In soil where the nitrifying bacteria are able to grow, these bacteria convert ammonium to nitrite and then nitrate. But nitrifying bacteria have some significant constraints on where they will grow. They need reduced oxygen conditions to do best. They typically reduce oxygen around their colony, so the bacterial individuals in the middle of the colony are in reduced oxygen conditions. Or they grow in the rhizosphere, where the rapid growth of all those other bacteria sets the stage for a small colony to be at the oxygen level they need. Nitrifiers take the hydrogen ions from ammonium and replace them with oxygen. Ammonium is first converted, by the action of bacterial enzymes, to nitrite (NO2) and then another set of bacteria converts nitrite to nitrate (NO3). It is an oxidation step of the nitrogen.

But this is not a mineralization step. Ammonium is already a mineral form of N, and so conversion to nitrite and then to nitrate is merely a shift in the form of inorganic N.

Nitrifying bacteria require particular habitats in order to grow and perform their nutrient cycling processes. These bacteria need the hydrogen ions in order to generate energy through their metabolic pathways. They remove H from the medium. What does that do to soil pH?

Nitrifying bacteria remove ammonium, and produce nitrate. They aren’t taking up the N, that are just using it to deal with the electrons they need to get rid of in respiration. In order to grow and perform their function, they will drive a soil more alkaline. As they utilize H ions during metabolic functions, the soil will become more alkaline.

Some scientists say that bacteria couldn’t possibly have that much effect on soil. Each individual bacterium is so small, how could bacteria have much effect on anything in soil? These people clearly don’t understand soil, or how many bacteria are in soil. In a healthy soil, there are 600,000,000 individual bacteria per TEASPOON, or gram, of soil. In conventional ag soil, there may be only 1,000,000 individual bacteria per gram of soil.
Consider that the only reason there is enough oxygen in the atmosphere of this planet for aerobic organisms to function is because anaerobic bacteria produced enough oxygen as a waste product to change the composition of gases in the atmosphere. Humans exist only because those tiny creatures performed their functions.

Why is it not possible that bacteria could alter soil pH? They altered the atmosphere of this planet. Why not soil?

Consider the real world, not a greenhouse or lab soil. Nitrate doesn’t exist in soil without the biology present and functioning. Without the organisms to alter the form of N, plants won’t grow. Now, when people add ammonium to the soil, they alter the normal flow of nutrient cycling. When people say plants take up ammonium, what you need to say back, right away, is, “But is that the form of N that will keep that plant healthy?”

What form of N do different plants need? Some scientists say that N is N, it doesn’t matter where it came from. Could that possibly be true? Think about yourself. What form of N do you need? What if you consumed your N in the form of nitrate? You’d be dead in a very short time because your kidneys would go into failure. If you didn’t consume enough nitrate to kill you that way, you’d starve to death. People can take up nitrate, but it will kill us. Is the form of N important? Can people consume ammonia? You’ll die even faster if you try that form of N.

Is the form of N important? Of course it is. Plants have similar requirements. If all you give a plant is nitrate, it will take up nitrate. But is that the correct form for that plant to grow without stress?
If the only thing you give your plant is ammonium, will that plant take-up that form of N? Yes, but is the plant growing in a healthy fashion? If the plant now needs fungicides, insecticides, herbicides, etc in order to grow, this is not healthy. All inorganic N is highly leachable. Stop destroying water quality by putting these leachable forms of N in your soil or potting mixes.
Some plants do best taking up nitrate, others do better with ammonium.

Is there a generalization we can use to say what kinds of plants do best with the different kinds of N? Annual plants, in general, do better with nitrate. Perennial plants do best with ammonium. “Do best” means not stressed, less subject to disease, stronger cell walls, higher production. Annual plants can use ammonium, for example, but they are not healthy, and require much more pesticide in order to stay alive.

Nitrifying bacteria produce nitrate which is the preferred form of N for annual plants in normal soil – no inorganic fertilizer applications needed. Nitrifying bacteria require and maintain alkaline conditions. That means that terrestrial annual plants grow best in alkaline soils. And they do, in general.

The form of nitrogen is very important then, is it not? When bacteria and fungi grow in the soil, what form of N are they taking up? They probably prefer protein, but they will also take up nitrate, nitrite and ammonium – all of the inorganic forms of N can be taken up by these organisms. But not all species use all kinds of N. Presence of high concentrations of NO3 will select for certain communities of bacteria, or fungi. Nitrite selects for other species, ammonium for other species.

Look at a picture of the root of an annual plant taken with a microscope. In the book called “The Ultrastructure of the Root”, by R. Fosterm the most noticeable thing you will see is the deep layer of “slime” present on root surfaces, and the soil around the root. Everything is embedded in the slime produced by bacteria.

Recent work from the USDA in Beltsville show that mycorrhizal fungi also produce significant glues to hold the fungal hyphae on the root, and which help form macro-aggregates in the soil. The pH of these glues are alkaline. When we deal with row crop plants, with most mid-to-early successional grasses, with most terrestrial weeds, and most early successional terrestrial plants, the pH around the roots is alkaline.

But given that the slime layer, the glue around aerobic bacterial cells is alkaline, and there are millions of bacteria per gram of healthy soil, they have to have a large role in influencing soil pH, especially if the soil is bacterial-dominated.

Don’t over-extrapolate to wetland plants, riparian plants, hydroponic situations, or high production ag conditions. Different things are going on there. Think about the fact that most plants in high production ag fields are extremely sick, very stressed, and not functioning normally. If they were healthy, they wouldn’t need all those pesticides, and they would be able to establish and out-compete the weeds. So, any example based on conventional ag cannot be used. Seriously different things are going on there. And pH is being jerked around all the time by high lime, or gypsum or anhydrous ammonia, or other additions.

Humans alter pH with very little effort. So, you can’t use pH as a meaningful measure of anything if pesticides, high level of fertilizers, or compaction have been imposed on soil. And what intensive agricultural soil has not had pesticide, herbicide, high levels of inorganic fertilizer, and severe compaction imposed on it?

But how can normal soils have lower pH than neutral? Different organism dominance. Fungi produce organic acids as major components of their metabolism, but not the STRONGLY acidic organic acids that occur in anaerobic conditions. So, when we test soils that are aerobic, and fungal-dominated, the pH is always somewhere between 5.5 and 7.

This means the nitrifying bacteria are not major players in converting ammonium to nitrate, and so ammonium stays ammonium in fungal-dominated, pH 5.5 to 7.0, healthy forest soils.
What happens in compacted soils?

Compaction destroys the air passageways and water infiltration hallways in soil. If possible, the aerobic organisms start re-building the structure immediately, but their activities may use up the oxygen faster than oxygen can diffuse into the soil. When that happens, the soil loses oxygen, and may move into the facultative anaerobic and finally into the anaerobic zone of metabolism.

How rapid is the loss of oxygen? Depends on how active the organisms are, and how limited the diffusion of oxygen into the soil. Do a soil penetrometer reading. Look how far down the roots of your plants grow.

Take a look at some of Steiner’s and Pfiffer’s drawings of how far down roots went into soil just a mere 50 or 60 years ago. And now look at what current soils books tell you about root depth.

Something has happened. Roots of plants today don’t seem to go down as far as they used to go down.

Look at the USDA definition of soil depth. In the 1940-s and 1950’s, soil was defined as material in which you can grow plants. That depth was determined by how far down roots went, and in the 1930’s, that depth was defined as 4 to 6 inches. In the mid-1980’s, soil depth was re-defined as going down to 12 to 18 inches. In 1994, soil was re-defined again as going down 4 ft. Below those zones, in any time period, you could not get plants to grow in ag that soil. Except for tap roots, roots would not grow deeper than those depths.

How can that be? You have to understand tillage equipment. In agriculture, up to the 1970’s, most soils, especially in the Midwest were tilled with mold-board plows which turn the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. With continuing tillage, the soil became so compacted at that depth that water and air could not move through it. The “soil” below that point was anaerobic, salt problems occurred. Water would hold up and not penetrate further into the soil. In the spring, that pan would prevent water from moving into the soil, and then erosion occurred, taking soil downhill.

The solution to this was an engineering approach. Have a hard pan? Break it open physically. Plow deeper. Chisel and disc plows go down to, 12 to 18 inches. The hardpan at 4 to 6 inches was broken up, but the compaction zone was then imposed at 12 to 18 inches, depending on your equipment. Within a few years, the hardpan was so bad at those depths that deeper tilling equipment was invented. We need to break open the compaction zone at 12 to 18 inches, by deep-tilling, or sub-soiling. We shatter the soil down to 4 feet, and so we develop two compaction zones. One at 4 feet, and the “normal” ones at 12 to 18 inches.

As compaction occurs, oxygen movement slows, aerobic organisms go to sleep. Anaerobic organisms start to grow. In aerobic conditions, the bacteria making alkaline slime were predominant. But as anaerobic bacteria, and yeasts (which are fungi, but are not normally functional in soil in aerobic conditions), begin to win in competition with aerobes for the food resources.

Consider the metabolites produced in anaerobic conditions. Alcohols are a major component of anaerobic conditions and are among the most phytotoxic materials that we know. In anaerobic conditions, the roots will be killed.

Unless it’s a riparian or wetland plant. Then these roots have mechanisms for dealing with and getting rid of alcohol. They have the plant world’s equivalent of livers. Enzymes are produced which destroy alcohol, or they pump oxygen into the root system, for example.

What else is produced in anaerobic conditions? Some very toxic organic acids, such as acetic acid, proprionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, and a host of other low pH organic acids, only produced in anaerobic conditions. So, what happens to soil in anaerobic conditions? The pH can fall into very low levels. These severely low pH organic acids are strictly produced by anaerobic organisms, and become the dominant determinant of soil pH when the whole soil profile, or a major part of the soil, becomes anaerobic.

Some really nasty phenols are also produced under anaerobic conditions. More killing power in these anaerobic conditions.

What happens to ammonium, or nitrate in anaerobic conditions? They are lost as volatile gas, ammonia. Ammonia is a product of anaerobic microbial metabolism. What happens to sulfur in anaerobic conditions? Lost as hydrogen sulfide. What happens to phosphate in anaerobic conditions? Lost as phosphine gas. Can’t smell it, but you can see it. The anaerobic organic acids metioned above, and of course ammonia and hydrogen sulfide, you can smell. If it stinks, there’s anaerobic metabolism occurring.

Can you grow plants in something where N, P, S has been lost, or at least significantly reduced? Certainly not going to grow well.

Will you be able to grow healthy plants in something where plant-toxic materials have been produced?

Can you grow plants in something where the nutrient-cycling organisms have been killed, or at least put-to-sleep by the lack of oxygen, to say nothing of the toxic effect of alcohol, low pH organic acids, and phenols, or the loss of the exudates from the root systems?

So, at low pH, the soil is in serious trouble. Below pH 4.5, terrestrial plants are not going to do well. Riparian plants? Wetland plants – different story, as explained above.

So, closing the nitrogen cycle requires anaerobic conditions, which results in nitrate or ammonium being blown off as a gas, ammonia, nitrous oxide, or nitrogen gas. And nitrogen is back where we started – in the atmosphere, where our biggest reserve of N is.

Please see the books and CD’s by Dr. Elaine Ingham to hear more about the N cycle, microorganisms, and plant growth.
 
V

vonforne

What are the Benefits of Aerated Compost Teas vs. Classic Teas?

What are the Benefits of Aerated Compost Teas vs. Classic Teas?

Aerated compost teas are the latest in scientific organic research today. In many ways, aerated teas offer greater immediate benefits than classic compost, manure, or other homemade foliar teas. Just by applying a cheap aquarium air pump to a 5 gallon bucket of tea, you can get amazing results. (Cheap, inexpensive aquarium airstones are also recommended to be applied to the hose in the water. This produces a better distribution of smaller air bubbles to make the aerobic soil/comosting microbes breed better.) Instead of just brewing teas for quick valuable water soluble nutrients from the compost or manure, you can breed a larger population of beneficial aerobic bacteria and fungi in the tea. It is the microherd in our soil, compost, and teas, that is really more important in soil development and disease control than just the soluble nutrients. Aerobic microherd populations reduce offensive smells in compost piles, the compost teas, and the soil. Aerobic microherd also break down bad poisons and pathogens into safe nutrients in hot compost piles and aerated compost teas. Diluted anaerobic compost or manure teas are great liquid fertilizers and disease controllers also. Many people prefer the anaerobic teas better because they are simpler and easier to design and apply. However, recent research has proven that the aerobic microherd populations fight diseases and bad soil and plant pathogens better and supply more power to your soil's total health and texture. Keep in mind that all types of organic and natural foliar teas are designed to complement and enhance, not replace, basic composting, green manuring, and organic mulching techinques in your garden. The soil microherd continue over months and years to eat up insoluble OM in the existing soil and the extra soil amendments and break them down into more available soluble nutrients for plants later in the year.

Technically even in un-aerated teas there is still some aerobic action taking place for several days. All fungi is aerobic. Some bacteria are totally aerobic, some bacteria are totally anaerobic, and some bacteria can act both aerobic or anerobic based on the soil or tea environment. Un-aerated teas can continue to keep alive some aerobic or aerobic/anaerobic microbes, for up to 10 days in a watery solution. After 10 days, the whole un-aerated tea will contain only anerobic microbes.

You can expect different microbial population levels in your tea based on weather, climate, temperature, seasons, etc. In the summertime you can expect your teas to brew faster and get to your optimal microbial levels faster than in cooler fall weather. Also tea odors, color, and foaminess on top of the tea, will vary based on temperatures too.

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There are several different levels of teas as well as different recipes and styles. Here is the simple steps as outlined by one of our own GardwenWeb members who is an expert on teas and compost. This is a brief description of the different strength levels of tea making as outlined by "BILL_G" :

Level 1: Put a shovel full of good compost in a 5 gallon bucket of water, wait one week, and apply to garden or lawn either full strength or up to a 1:4 water ratio. This is an excellent source of ready available soluble nutrients. NOTE: If you stir your brew daily or every other day, it helps get more oxygen to the mix for better decomposition and better aerobic microbial population growth.

Level 2: Do same as above, but now add to the recipe a few cups of alfalfa pellets or some other cattle feed. Now you have extra nitrogen and trace elements from the bacterial foods.

Level 3: Do all above plus now add the air pump bubbler. Now you have more aerobic microbes to add to your soluble nutrients in the tea.

Level 4: Do all the above and now add a few tblsp of molasses or other simple sugar products. Now you really maximize the aerobic microbes in the tea, which in turn produce even more extra soluble nutrients from the bacterial foods.

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Here is my suggestions also. You can add more high nitrogen foods in the tea. Remember the only main ingredients that are necessary to make a good bacterial and soluble nutrients tea are: aerobic compost and sugar products. Everything else is optional. Your teas can be as creative as you are. Let's assume a 5 gallon tea recipe for our example:

1. Add 1/2 bucket of finished hot compost. This supplies most of the beneficial aerobic microbes and soluble nutrients. Some people use slightly immature aerobic compost because it has more fresh nitrogen in it, but less microbes than finished hot compost.

2. Use 2-3 tblsp molasses, brown sugar, or corn syrup. This feeds and breeds the aerobic bacteria. Sugar products are mostly carbon which is what the microherd eat quickly. Add about 1-2 more tblsp of molasses for every 3 days of aerobic brewing to make sure the sugar is digested before touching the soil at application time, and to guarantee that the aerobic bacteria population stays strong throughout the brewing process. Molasses also contains sulfur which is a mild natural fungicide. Molasses is also a great natural deodorizer for fishy teas. For a more fungal tea don't add too much simple sugar or molasses to your aerobic teas. Use more complex sugars, starches and carbohydrates like in seaweed, rotten fruit, soy sauce, or other fungal foods.

3. Add 1-2 cans of mackerel, sardines, or other canned fish. Supplied extra NPK, fish oil for beneficial fungi, calcium from fish bones. Most commercial fish emulsions contain no fish oils and little to no aerobic bacteria. Fresh fish parts can be used, but because of offensive odors, it should composted separately with browns like sawdust first before adding to the tea brew. NOTE: For those organic gardeners who prefer vegetarian soil amendments, you can skip the fishy ingredients, it's not necessary. There is plenty of NPK in alfalfa meal and other grains that you can use.

(NOTE: If you use canned fish products, you may want to let it decompose mixed with some finished compost, good garden soil, etc. in a separate closeable container for a few days before using. Since most canned meat products contain preservatives, this will guarantee that the good microbes in the tea will not be killed off or harmed in brew making.)

4. Add 1 pack fresh seaweed. Supplies all extra trace elements. Seaweed can contain about 60 trace elements and lots of plant growth hormones. Seaweed is a beneficial fungal food source for soil microbes. Liquifying the seaweed makes it dissolve even faster.

5. Add 1-2 cups of alfalfa meal, corn meal, cattle feed, horse feed, catfish or pond fish feed. Supplies extra proteins and bacteria. Corn meal is a natural fungicide and supplies food for beneficial fungi in the soil.

6. Add rotten fruit for extra fungal foods. Add green weeds to supply extra bacterial foods to the tea.

7. Good ole garden soil is an excellent free biostimulant. Garden soil is full of beneficial aerobic bacteria, fungi, and other great microbes. Some people make a great microbial tea just out of soil. Forest soil is usually higher in beneficial fungi than rich garden soil.

8. Fill the rest of the container with rainwater, compost tea, or plain de-chlorinated water to almost the top of bucket. You can make good "rain water" from tap water by adding a little Tang (citrus acid) to the water mix before brewing. Urine water is also an excellent organic nitrogen source for teas (up to 45% N).

9. Some people like to add 1-2 tblsp of apple cider vinegar to add about 30 extra trace minerals and to add the little acidicity that is present in commercial fish emulsions. Many fish emulsions contain up to 5% sulfuric acid to help it preserve on the shelf and add needed sulfur to the soil. You can add extra magnesium and sulfur by adding 1-2 tblsp of Epsom salt to the tea.

10. Apply the air pump to the tea. NOTE: Some organic tea brewers prefer not to use the air pump method. You can get some extra oxygen in the tea by stirring it daily or every other day. The air pump just makes the oxygen levels in the tea happen faster than by hand, thus greatly increasing the rate of aerobic microbial growth in the tea. If you prefer to use the air pump, let it bubble and brew for at least 1-3 days. (NOTE: The 3 days limit is just a good guideline. The real test of brewing time is by your own sight and smell test, because everybody's tea is different due to the various microbial species and breeding activity that takes place during the brewing process.) The aerobic tea is ready to use when it has either an earthy or "yeasty" smell or a foamy layer on top of the tea. If not satisfied with the look or the smell of the tea, go up to a week of brewing. The extra brewing time will help the microbes digest more of the insoluble bacterial and fungal foods in the tea and make it more available for your plant's or your soil's nutritional needs.

Apply this tea full strength to get full nutrient levels per plant, or dilute it from a 1:1 down to a 1:5 water ratio to spread the beneficial microbes over a 1-acre garden area (mix 5 gallons of tea per 25 gallons of rainwater).

To reduce straining, you can place all your ingredients in a closed panty hose or laundry bag during the brewing cycle (don't use a too fine mesh bag or the beneficial fungi can't flow properly through the bag).

Here's another method to avoid straining and to maximize the amount of microbes in application: Simply turn off the air pump, stir the entire mixture real hard, and then let the mixture sit still for about 30 minutes. Scoop off the top juice straight into a watering can for application.

You can apply with a watering can, or simple cup, or in a sprinkling system. All compost teas can be used as a foliar feed or soil drench around plants. They also make great compost pile nitrogen and bacterial activators to heat up the pile for faster finished composting. Always take the remains for teas and recycle them back into your compost piles.

As stated, you can use your homemade tea as a foliar feed or as a soil drench or both. Soil drenches are best for building up the soil microbial activities and supplying lots of beneficial soluble NPK to the plant's root system and the topsoil texture. Foliar feeds are best for quick fixes of trace elements and small portions of other soluble nutrients into the plant through its leaves. Foliar feeds are also good for plant disease control. Foliar feeds work best when used with soil drenches or with lots of organic mulches around plants. You can poke holes in the soil around crop roots with your spade fork, to get more oxygen in the soil to further increase organic matter decomposition and increase microbial activity in the soil.

Aerated teas can also be used to greatly speed up the decomposition process of hot compost piles. The extra aerobic microbes in the tea will breed and cooperate with the aerobic microbes in the organic matter in the compost pile.

You should not use any liquid soaps as a spreader-sticker agent in a fertilizing/biostimulant tea like this. It can hinder or harm your aerobic microbes that you just grew in the tea. You need to use better products in your tea like liquid molasses, dry molasses powder, fish oil, or yucca extract as a spreader-sticker.

A good aerated tea is very economical. 5 gallons can be diluted to biostimulate an entire acre of garden via foliar spraying only. If you soil drench only, it takes at least 15 gallons of tea, before diluting, to cover an acre of garden soil. Also there is enough aerobic bacteria and fungi in a good 5 gallon batch of aerated tea, that is the equivalent of about 10 tons or 40 cubic yards of regular compost!

These homemade aerated compost teas are just as powerful, maybe more powerful, than any commercial natural or organic fertilizer or soil amendment on the market today. And they are a lot cheaper too! So have fun, be creative, and keep on composting!

Happy Gardening!

Making your own teas will save tons of $ also, not to mention that you have total control over the amounts that you add. Unlike what you buy at the "Hydro" store for a greatly marked up price.
 
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jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
good shit i was going to post something similar tomarrow you saved me time :)
 
V

vonforne

No problem, after your reads, I needed to find something along the same lines. And I found it to be a good read so I shared it with all my Organic friends.
 
V

vonforne

For those growing in soil, organic fertilizers and soil conditioners have literally been around since the beginning of time. After all, an organic fertilizer is nothing more than a plant nutrient derived from a natural resource, regardless of whether it's source is animal, mineral, or vegetable. For centuries before the advent of chemical fertilization, farmers and gardeners successfully relied on natural plant nutrients to ensure their success by following natures' examples. For obvious reasons, animal manure and "green" manure, or cover cropping, were the primary sources of nutrients used to enrich the soil of early farms and gardens. Organic Composted Manure Has Been The Staple Nutrient In Agriculture For Centuries

As the modern agricultural revolution progressed, increasing amounts of research was undertaken to determine the level of nutrients in various organic materials and manures, and the conditions necessary for those nutrients to break down into their basic elemental form, which is necessary for the plant to utilize them as food.

One of the primary lessons learned was that the soil must be alive with microbiological activity for the nutrients locked up in the manures to be successfully transformed into a usable elemental form that the plant can utilize. And it was also discovered that earthworms play a vital role in this function. Not only do earthworms naturally aerate the soil, which helps to increase the amount of another element a plant uses, oxygen, to the roots, their excrement, or "castings", has been found to be natures version of what is necessary to free elemental nutrients from their host manures.

Teeming with microbiologicial activity in addition to a full complement of minor and trace elements, their use was fostered by famous organic philosopher and practitioner Robert Rodale, Jr. Earthworm castings have become internationally recognized for their superior soil conditioning and plant rejuvenation properties, and were even proclaimed by Mr. Rodale as "...the finest form of humus known to man." Recognizing the multiple benefits of worm castings, many entrepeneurs now operate "worm farms" specifically for the production of worm castings to be bagged and sold to eager backyard gardeners and hobby farmers.

Until recently, their availability in the retail marketplace was rare, and even today, most garden centers and hardware stores don't carry this valuable gardening commodity. Worms not only aerate the soil, their castings are on of the best forms of humus for the garden.

The good news is, most Earth-Friendly, Water-Wise Garden Retailers, especially those that feature organic and soil-free hydroponic gardening products, recognize and promote the innumerable benefits of worm castings by selling them bagged in a number of sizes, with many of them willing to ship bagged worm castings directly to your door. Here is an address for mail order suppliers across the USA and Canada
http://www.cityfarmer.org/wormsupl79.html

During the early agricultural revolution of the mid-1800's, guano (the droppings of bats and seabirds), was recognized for it's extremely high concentrations of plant nutrients, as well as it's soil rejuvenation properties.

Guano from different species of bats and seabirds was found to have unique properties, some better for blooming plants, others better for green growth, and still others with all-purpose characteristics. As a result, the guano industry fluorished in the United States and shiploads of high fertilizer value bat dung and seabird guano were regularly delivered to American farms and orchards via the Merchant Marine from such faraway places as Peru, Nambia, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, Mexico and others, well into the mid-20th century. Bat's are the source of bat guano, one of mother nature's most powerful organic fertilizers.

Utilizing these specialized guanos, farmlands and orchards not only produced bountiful yields of high-quality fruit and produce, their soils remained healthy and retained the tilth and nutrient value necessary for continuous use.

While commercially produced synthetic fertilizers first appeared in Europe in the mid-1800's, and did increase yields significantly where applied, their use remained relatively limited until new manufacturing techniques and marketing efforts in the late 1940's spurned a massive increase in their use worldwide. As a result of these new "miracle" fertilizers' universal availability and low cost, the synthetic fertilizer industry quickly brought an end to the importation of the more expensive organic guanos and manures.

Of course, it was realized after some time that the miracle alone was too good to be true. And yes, while the synthetic fertilizers did increase food production at the time dramatically, it was learned that their sole use virtually decimated the soil it was used in, killing off the earthworms and microbiological activity necessary for healthy soil, and leaving many farms as virtual dustbowls due to their overuse.

The results sparked a renewed interest in organic and sustainable growing methods, and now many different guano's are available again for home gardeners and organic farmers, again imported from far-away places, who will be amazed at the results that are achieved from this wonderful renewable and long-lasting natural plant fertilizer resource. As with earthworm castings, puzzling as it may seem, guano fertilizers are again generally only available at Earth-Friendly, Water-Wise Garden Retailers.

And Don't Forget To Take Your Vitamin!
Research has also determined that plants, like humans, can reap great benefits from vitamins and other nutritional supplements. The most famous of these, of course, was the discovery around 1940 that vitamin B-1 played an important role in the metabolism of plants.

Today, there are dozens of vitamin based plant tonics that blend vitamin B-1 with other beneficial vitamins, hormones, and botanical ingredients proven to enhance plant growth, root development, disease resistance, and more! One of the most common botanical plant tonic ingredients is seaweed.

Seaweed (Ascophyllum Nodosum), or kelp, has been found to be extremely beneficial to plant growth, and is loaded with all of the trace and minor elements described above plus a host of vitamins and natural hormones that are so critical to truly healthy plant growth.

Seeds soaked in liquid seaweed have been shown in university tests to germinate faster, while growing plants were better able to withstand insect attacks and temperature extremes and were more disease resistant than plants that didn't receive seaweed. It has been shown to be particularly effective for plants under stress. Seaweed, or kelp, is extremely beneficial to plant growth.

The most compelling reason to consider using a product containing this wonderful plant resource are the increased yields. Research conducted between 1985 and 1989 showed an average increase in yield weight of 68% in carrots; 38% in cabbage; 44% in lettuce; 14% in peaches; 12% in onions; 40% in celery; 17% in potatoes; 35% in pears; 55% in tomatoes; 43% in red beets; and 27% in corn. Flowers and herbs have increased yields as well.

Seaweed and kelp fertilizers are available in many forms, including liquid, super-concentrated liquid, granular for mixing, and soluble powder. With results like these, you would think that seaweed would be sold by garden centers everywhere, but again, as with most of the wonderful new and old fertilizers described on this page, their availability is generally limited to a new breed of Earth-Friendly, Water-Wise Garden Supply Retailers whom specialize in organic and soilless garden supplies.

These are but a few examples of the wonderful new plant foods, fertilizers, and supplements that have been developed by those with a passion for growing plants. Many others are available and properly used, will provide you with healthy plants and a productive garden.

Price breakdown in my area for a few of these are:
Various guanos:
Fox Farms Peace of Mind from 6.99 to 11.99 per 5# box. I use these in my soil mixture because they contain some premium organic ingredients like bat guano, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, fish meal and humic acid, a naturally occurring organic material that is formed when organic matter decomposes. Humic acid helps with seed germination and may increase the uptake of important micronutrients. And I think it is just "good shi@"
Jamican, Mexican, Peruvian, Indonesion in grow and flower from 19.95 to 29.95 usually comes in a 11# box. Made by Sunleaves. (its another brand I use) it is just straight guano I use for a "tea"
You can get the House of Guanos which is a mixture of all the different Guanos and is a good starter pack as it gives you a variety to start with. And it sells for 29.95 per box.
Worm castings: I use Black Gold which I love, 14.99 per 16 litre bag.

All of these can be combined or use seperately to compost your teas with or just use a soil additives. Your plants will love them.
 
I

irie-i

irie-i's mix and tea recipe

irie-i's mix and tea recipe

here's what i am using for this cycle. my mix has been slowly evolving over the last few cycles. this is not set in stone, for instance i prefer gaia brand to welcome harvest for the mix. i prefer to avoid quantities of blood and bone meal, but im not outright against using them.

pro-mix BX... i prefer HP but it wasnt available
4 cups welcome harvest farm 4-4-4 super grow mix
4 cups alfalfa meal
2 1/2 cups high P bat guano
2 1/2 cups lime
1 bag (30l) earth worm castings
~ 5 gallons perlite
3 shovels full of leftover unused mix from my last grow


and i feed throughout the grow cycle with aerated compost teas. again the recipe is not set in stone, but its usually pretty similiar. sorry the recipe is a bit convoluted, i have a 50 gallon res, so the recipe is for that

1 tbs/gallon molasses (700 ml)
about 6-10 cups alfalfa meal, way less during flower
about 6-10 cups high P bat guano
about 6-10 cups earth worm castings
1 tps/gallon welcome harvest farms' soluble kelp powder
(much like maxi-crop i think)
liquid humus as per instructions on the bottle
grozyme as per instructions
a few tbs brewers yeast (someone recently suggested that this could cause my mix to ferment, so im not sure about this anymore)
AN pirahna and tarantula
somtimes i add epsom salts, 1tbs/gallon

occasionally a bottle of AN iguana juice falls into my hands so i add that to the mix too.

i bubble for about 48 hours and feeed this tea to the soil, and sometimes i dilute it a little and foliar feed

my yeilds have been good, but im hoping to improve!

peace!
 
V

vonforne

Vonforne's soil mix and tea mixture

Vonforne's soil mix and tea mixture

Hello everyone, first I would like to state that my soil mix and the ingredents may change over time due to the fact that I always try new products and try to improve. With that said here goes.

Veg. mix: I measure everything with the 5 gallon bucket method. Tbls is
actually a round soup spoon. Measured just over level not heaping.

1. Spread out a tarp. I use a 8x8 in my garage. If you don't have that use a
35 or 50 gallon container from wally world.
2. I then pour out my base mix which is FoxFarms Ocean Forest. It is about 2
and 1/3 buckets. Break up all the solid material and spread out evenly.
3. Pour in 2-5 gallon buckets of "Big and Chunky" perlite from Fox Farm.
4. Then I add a 16 litre bag of Black Gold worm castings. Maybe just short of
that to save a little material for making teas with.
5. I then add some more peat moss. Lamberts brand or something similar,
just plain old peat, no wetting agent or anything.
1 completely full 5 gallon bucket.
6. Mix together thourghly. It takes around 5 gallons of activator liquid for this
mix.
My "activator" is a 5 gallon of bubbled teas mix.
This mix is 5 gallons of clean water, 4 cap fulls of Maxi Crop Liquid
Seaweed, 5 teaspoons of Liquid Karma and 5 tablespoons of Tree of Life
Molasses. I have bubbled this for 24 hours.
7. Let stand for 1-2 weeks, covered and turn daily. If you are pressed for
time and want to start the soil faster, you can add 1/2 of another mix
that has been "cooking" already.
This allows all the micro kiddies to get going in the soil so it will be
ready for the babys.
8. Pick the size of container you will use. This time lets say 2 gallon.
9. Now, I add my mix about 1/3 or the container.
10. At this point I add some admendments.
1 tbls dolomite
1 tbls of fossolized guano FF Peace of Mind 7-4-5 Tomato & Vegetable
formula is pH-balanced with premium organic ingredients like bat guano,
kelp meal, alfalfa meal, fish meal and humic acid, a naturally occurring
organic material that is formed when organic matter decomposes. Humic
acid helps with seed germination and may increase the uptake of
important micronutrients.
11. 1/2 tbls of FF Peace of Mind Fruit and Flower 5-8-4, mix good. I split my
mix like this so the roots will have nutes where ever they go.
12. Add baby.
13 Add a little more or your mix.
14. Add to the top part of the mix the rest of your admendents. 1 more tbls
of dolomite, 1 spoon more of 7-4-5 and 1/2 more of 5-8-4.
15. Top of container with mix.
16. Water in your bubbled solution. I dilute mine to about 1/4 strength at
this time and evenly wet the container to ensure even moisture.
17. And that is how I have been doing my mix so far. I have been messing
with soil regeneration and will add all the ingredents in the Ocean Forest
my self for the next run but the base mix will remain the same.

Flowering mix into 4 gallon pots:

1. #1 through 9. are the same
10. Now add admendments. 1-dolomite lime, 1 FF Peace of Mind 7-4-5,
and now I switch to Indonesion Guano (0.5-12-0.2) for flowering
11. Add 1 heaping tbls of the Indonesion guano and mix.
12. Add baby.
13. A little more mix.
14. The rest of the admendments only 1/2 spoon of the 7-4-5 (the soil has
the rest of the nitrogen, if not you can top dress later). 1 of the
Indonesion guano (0.5-12-0.2) and another spoon of dolomite.
15. Top with mix and water evenly with 1/4 strength bubbled solution of LK,
molasses and Maxicrop Seaweed .
16. You can add other admendments later as a top dressing if you feel the
need. With this mix I only water at 1/4 strength solution from a tea. The
mix seems to have every thing the plant needs. About 3 weeks into
flower I top dress with another spoon of Indonesion guano. I do consider
this one to be the best for flowering but you can use which ever you
prefer.

You can substitute the grow and flowering admendments with Blood or Bone meal but you would loose the added things in the Peace of Mind that I mentioned before but you could add them yourself if you want or just leave them out and water in. Remember this is an evolving mix so feel free to add ar delete anything you don;t like or would prefer to use. I have been having good results with this mix so far.

Bubbling Tea Mix for veg.

I simply add 5 gallon clean and chlorine free water from my tap. PH adjusted to about 6.0. Actually its about 4.5 gallons. I then add 1 tbls 7-4-5 guano to every gallon of water, 1/2 tbles of Phos. per gallon and 2 or 3 cups of wormcastins with 5 caps of Maxi crop Seaweed and 5 teaspoons of Liquid Karma per mix 1 cap per gallon and bubble for 24-48 hours. I then dilute the mix to about 1/4 to 1/2 and add to bubbling clean water. And water in.

For flowering I simply cut back on the grow guano and increase the Phos. guano. Keep the wormcasting all the time. In my teas I use FF Peace of Mind 5-8-4 for veg and switch to Indonesion (0.5-12-0.2) for flower, the same as my soil mix.


Note: all of this could change tommorrow if I feel it could be improved on. I use the Fox Farm Ocean forest for the substrate and the admendments, which can be reintroduced again later. All of my mixes are taken from other growers tried and true mixes and built on or taken away by me to meet my needs. Feel free to do the same since no one's mix is exactly the same. I like to add admendments to the soil to cut down on my tea solution. My watering schedule is Solution every third watering or as a booster. Usually I only use 1/4 strength of my tea. If I feel they need more I increase slightly. Every now and then I will add Epson salt to the tea but generlly try and let the dolomite do the trick for the calcium and Mg.

If you see something I could improve on, feel free to add your input. As, I am always looking to improve. With this I have eliminated use of all "pour" in additives which were not 100% organic. And I know for sure what is in my tea and it is always fresh.
 
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jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
does anyone foliar feed there plants. if so how often? and with what.

if growing outdoors i foliar feed a lot. ewc tea and micro nutrients once or twice a week. then just plain stream water which i do almost everyday if not everyday. they always seem a lot greener, happier, more pest resistant, mold resistant and it helps build a great plant for flowering. thats in veg,

in flowering i notice a lot more pistil production that if i dont, not on all strains but most indicas.

heres a good link to read, id quote it but its a pretty long read.

http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/foliar.html

covers

* Introduction
* Background
* Foliar Fertilization and Pest Resistance
* The Basics of Foliar Feeding
* Further Application Technologies
* Formulating Foliar Sprays
* Component Fertilizers for Foliar Fertilization
* Crop Manipulation through Foliar Fertilization

another shot for the pleasure


 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Nice system V, we are all changing and updating our mixes, this is pot site so new stoner ideas ARE ALWAYS WELCOME.

JK I do foliar often, a least 1-2 week with a light solution, what't is the bottle depends on the growth stage.
I use 1tsp/gal of LiquidKarma throughout, I'll add some liquid seaweed at the same rate during flowering.
If I am paranoid about critters (which i'm not) I'll add neem oil to the foliar feed.
Anything with humic acid and some form of additive is good for foliar.

Foliars are SOOOOO underrated, it's a direct uptake through the stomata, so it's fast and it can also be a good source of CO2 if you use seltzer water.

Suby
 
V

vonforne

Suby said:
Nice system V, we are all changing and updating our mixes, this is pot site so new stoner ideas ARE ALWAYS WELCOME.

JK I do foliar often, a least 1-2 week with a light solution, what't is the bottle depends on the growth stage.
I use 1tsp/gal of LiquidKarma throughout, I'll add some liquid seaweed at the same rate during flowering.
If I am paranoid about critters (which i'm not) I'll add neem oil to the foliar feed.
Anything with humic acid and some form of additive is good for foliar.

Foliars are SOOOOO underrated, it's a direct uptake through the stomata, so it's fast and it can also be a good source of CO2 if you use seltzer water.

Suby

How about our "bubbled" water? Is it as good as Seltzer water?
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
No bubbled water is just well oxygenated, CO2 in large quantities helps with growth as it's what plants breath, soda water is carbonated with CO2 so it creates a small rise it it's levels in the plant.

It's a very minimal effect but it's fun and doesn't hurt the plant any.

Suby

PS Bubbled Bacteria teas are EXCELLENT foliars and help prevent disease, mold, fungus, etc.
 
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jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
yup^^^ SOOOOOO underrated. your plants will be better than ever with a good foliar schedule. there is a lot of confusion with it though.

make sure to spray under the leaves as well as the tops of the fan leaves

although i dont like using kelp in ff after the first week maybe 2 in flowering. seems to make em stretch like mofos.

neem oil is good i forgot about that i use it sometimes. i should a lot more though.
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Yeah try to keep the LiquidSeaweed off the menu during the stretch, I like 50%Indica50% sativa mixes so let em' stretch I suppercrop and there's no outstretching that tecnique. :spank:

I got dem bitches under control. :smoweed:
 
V

vonforne

Suby, Im growing some Grapefruits. And they are getting pretty big. You are saying to "lay off" the kelp as to prevent continued stretch? They are about 2 1/2 feet to 3 feet in 4 gallon pots. All pruned about mid way. I was going to tie them. I dont really care about the stretch because I have a 9 ft cieling in my grow.
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Hey MI,:wave:

I think Liquid Karma is the only bottled fert you'd ever have to pry out of my cold dead hand....

But liquid kelp is very good is is only one ingredient whereas LK is a blend of all sorts of important elements.

Botanicare Liquid Karma (1 qt.)

Liquid Karma™ represents a significant break through in plant nutrition. This is because it contains a full complement of metabolically active organic compounds not found in regular plant foods or supplements. These unique compounds are absorbed immediately and act as regulatory signals, activators or catalysts to produce synchronized and accelerated growth under all conditions. Liquid Karma™ functions as a growth engine because its high metabolic activity produces a large amount of energy, which is immediately transformed to growth. It contains fermented compost, Amino Acids, vitamins, plant extracts, Humic Acid, Seaweed Extract and carbohy-drates.

Sounds like a hydrostore talk but the product works.
Now i'd love to brew it myself if anyone has the recipe...but i'm not holding my breath.

Now Liquid Kelp has it's strenths such as K and micros as well as growth hormones, LK is not a source of K so they both have their place in our gardens.
Incidently the entire PureBlend Pro lineup is based on this LK stuff, Humic and Fulvic acids are one of the key ingredients plus LK helps chelate the soil.



V some clain it causes stretch, I suppercrop from clone stage so they don't stretch anyhow, I prefer SC method, I think it is key to big yields and proper space management but that's another post....


Suby
 
V

vonforne

And I think that would be a great post Suby. "Suby's Supercropping 101" What do you think of that?
 

guanoman

Member
I am not an experienced grower, but I found this info "Originally from overgrow.com" to be very interesting. Maybe a bit of a Myth buster.

Can Human Urine be used as a fertilizer? Sure it can! by BuddyNugs.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=21381

I edited this post because I found out this article had already been posted else ware on this forum by BuddyNugs. I still think this is a good article for all organic gardeners to think about. :chin:
 
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3BM

Member
Right on Suby! Supercropping is key. Anyone interested in the basics of supercropping should check out the Soma book. He has a few nice pics of the technique in action.

For anyone unfamiliar, "Super-cropping" consists of bending the apical meristem of developing plants to encourage branching. Just pinch a healthy green stem (3-4 nodes down) lightly between thumb and forefinger until the xylem and phloem "snap". Then gently bend the top over about 90 degrees. This bend should distribute the plant's growth among the remaining developing shoots; increasing their height. Within 1-2 days the bend should recover completely with the former dominant head now flanked by encroaching side branches. The bend sight will also get a substantial reinforcement, increasing the plants ability to transport fluids through the xylem and phloem. Each plant responds differently to bending, so experimentation may be necessary to create an optimal shape. I am right there with Suby on wanting a nice vigorous hybrid to make this technique really explode. Never try to bend a rigid woody stem, nor any "purpling" stems if it results from deficiency. This is meant to be a "low stress" training technique so dont get overzealous. Wait until a plant has recovered from one bend before adding another. Plants can tolerate dozens of bends, and I regularly add 3-4 bends during a 6 week veg period. Sometimes I work with the same stem several times to encourage slow developing branches. Start bending early, and continue into the first week of flowering (especially for extremely "stretchy" strains). When working from sexed clone I find this technique encourages perfect branching while retaining the apical meristem, where, arguably, the largest and most potent cola will form. I must reiterate: start early. Bend stems when clones are rooted and producing stem freely. Start when stems look thick and vigorous, and plants are ready to explode in height.

It might help to think about stem health as it relates to this technique a little further. Healthy cannabis stems are hollow. Look for thick hollow stems at harvest for proof. Stressed or deficient plants may respond by hardening and solidifying the normally hollow stem tissue. If a plant has purple stems from deficiency the stems will not snap or give when rolled gently between the thumb and forefinger. Unhealthy stem tissue is not suitable for bending in this manner. Correct the defficiency or toxicity to create new and healthy stem tissue, then start bending the healthy tissue as necessary. However, I have encountered stems which naturally have a predominantly solid stem. These plants retain completely healthy characteristics while resisting any attempt to "crush" the stem. These plants still respond well to bending, but typically suffer greater stress during the process when their stems are forcibly crushed to enable it. For plants like this I bend the stems gently in an arc and tie them in place for several days at intervals. Tying stems like this can also work for rehabilitating stressed plants.

The results of super-cropping are hard to deny. The health and vigor will amaze, and should argue to supplant topping as a primary means of encouraging branching. That is, unless the plant comes from seed and the top will become a clone.

Well there's a quick primer on super-cropping. I look forward to what everyone will add. As always, I hope it helps.

3_Blind_Mice
 

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