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6th cycle no till issue soil tested

frankslan

Member
Hey there Im on my 6th or 7th cycle now with my no till and hte last few runs haven't been right.

In veg 2 gal pots I keep getting mag issues

then in my 27 gal tote containers I veg for a couple more week correct the mag def with epson foliars. By week 3-4 Ill get yellowing. This has happened the last 2 cycles. Also the buds that were produced were too fluffy and didnt want to finish even at day 70 they were still pumping out white hairs.


My soil mix is the standard no till mix. I usually top dress every flower cycle with ewc barley and the basic amendments.


I was talking to @costal about this issue on another forum he suggested I try this forum and talk to @slownickle @backyardfarmer and @jidoka as they might have more insight on the matter.


I have had my soil tested but my numbers seem really high on everything.


 

thailer

Active member
all the soil tests i've seen are mehlich III instead of the modified morgan and i've never seen a test report a 95 CEC. Logan Labs is where most go.

I know many have used their soil to build new soil using the old soil as the humus portion of the base mix.

I know quite a few people that don't refertilize after each round when they have have a couple cycles already. One company, KIS Farms sells a living soil and fertilizers to reammend has mentioned that after the 5-6th round, build up of calcium happens which can cause problems. i noticed your Ca is above saturation while the magnesium and potassium are on the low ends of optimum and when that gets off, you can have problems. maybe thats it.

I would either pay for a logan labs test which many are used to using/giving advice which may give you more accurate results or i would use the old soil as the compost portion of my base mix and then build new soil, refill my old containers and store the leftover soil.
 

Limeygreen

Well-known member
Veteran
It looks like you also have too much phosphorus built up (among others) too much phosphorus can block many nutrients as well but it looks like you have too much of many things.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Is there a reason for a vegetative period in 2 gallon pots? Is the soil in the 27 gallon container vacant at this time? If so this makes for a variation in the life of your soil. The degree this is effected to is dependent on the length of time. Actual living soil no-till should have plants growing all the time; or close to it.

With a slack time in soil, treating the soil with EM fermentations will help to provide the microorganisms which will degrade built up compounds and toxins and lay down a good microbial base for planting.

Do you make your own vermicompost? Are there any worms in your soil?

What is the barley for? Do you mean barley malt? I suspect that the enzymes in malt are best only used when plants are young.
Do you use any compost tea?

There are many things a soil test misses. (more than most wish to realize)

Looking at your soil test if a real picture, I would say that mainly Boron is your problem. If this is supposed to be available Boron then you have B toxicity. EM and raw organic matter (topdressed) should correct this but I'm highly skeptical of the legitimacy of the test results.
 

frankslan

Member
Thansk microbeman

I veg in 2 gal pots because my 27gal are for flowering I usually end up in the 27gal for 2-3 weeks then I flip.

I did make my own vermicompost which was made with the basic amendments blu blend and ricehulls.

I do use EM too, The boron does seem high I was thinking of trying to flushing the soil even.

Yes I meant malted barley I usually use that when I topdress. Once a cycle with some amendment and ewc.

Tea yes Im brewing one now. I usually do a few per cycle. I went out and got some forest humus yesterday hope this tea help them.
 

frankslan

Member
all the soil tests i've seen are mehlich III instead of the modified morgan and i've never seen a test report a 95 CEC. Logan Labs is where most go.

I know many have used their soil to build new soil using the old soil as the humus portion of the base mix.

I know quite a few people that don't refertilize after each round when they have have a couple cycles already. One company, KIS Farms sells a living soil and fertilizers to reammend has mentioned that after the 5-6th round, build up of calcium happens which can cause problems. i noticed your Ca is above saturation while the magnesium and potassium are on the low ends of optimum and when that gets off, you can have problems. maybe thats it.

I would either pay for a logan labs test which many are used to using/giving advice which may give you more accurate results or i would use the old soil as the compost portion of my base mix and then build new soil, refill my old containers and store the leftover soil.

Ya I could try that there's another test i saw on kis organic that is called a Soil Savvy Soil Test that will show whats available to the plant I might try that. logan labs i was thinking about that too I just dont have lot of cash but might have to.
 

frankslan

Member
all the soil tests i've seen are mehlich III instead of the modified morgan and i've never seen a test report a 95 CEC. Logan Labs is where most go.

I know many have used their soil to build new soil using the old soil as the humus portion of the base mix.

I know quite a few people that don't refertilize after each round when they have have a couple cycles already. One company, KIS Farms sells a living soil and fertilizers to reammend has mentioned that after the 5-6th round, build up of calcium happens which can cause problems. i noticed your Ca is above saturation while the magnesium and potassium are on the low ends of optimum and when that gets off, you can have problems. maybe thats it.

I would either pay for a logan labs test which many are used to using/giving advice which may give you more accurate results or i would use the old soil as the compost portion of my base mix and then build new soil, refill my old containers and store the leftover soil.

I wanted to add

I talked to tad hussey he said my number are high but the ratio is whats important. He said K is a little low and boron is a little high. And possibly N is low but couldnt tell from the test he said. so your probably right maybe bump up the k. He didnt mention CA or Mag actually he said mag is high not to add more.
 

X15

Well-known member
@frankslan hey bud hope things are working out for ya.
If I may add something regarding your above post,..
I wouldn’t recommend attempting to Flush your soil. As that would most likely result in a loss of beneficial microbes. You want to avoid over saturating your soil, esp if you don’t have any plants in the Soil. @Microbeman said it, really want plants In there doing the work. Idle* soil can become a problem.

Much Respect!
nasa-
 

St. Phatty

Active member
Hey there Im on my 6th or 7th cycle now with my no till and hte last few runs haven't been right.

In veg 2 gal pots I keep getting mag issues

then in my 27 gal tote containers I veg for a couple more week correct the mag def with epson foliars. By week 3-4 Ill get yellowing. This has happened the last 2 cycles. Also the buds that were produced were too fluffy and didnt want to finish even at day 70 they were still pumping out white hairs.


My soil mix is the standard no till mix. I usually top dress every flower cycle with ewc barley and the basic amendments.


I was talking to @costal about this issue on another forum he suggested I try this forum and talk to @slownickle @backyardfarmer and @jidoka as they might have more insight on the matter.


I have had my soil tested but my numbers seem really high on everything.



That soil test is similar to a test of straight wood ash.
 

Bio boy

Active member
That soil test is similar to a test of straight wood ash.
I’ve seen a few online like this from organic coots style mix after til 5 I don’t know why im trying in my thread too check almost twins
and I feed ro water
 

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St. Phatty

Active member
I’ve seen a few online like this from organic coots style mix after til 5 I don’t know why im trying in my thread too check almost twins
and I feed ro water

I wanted to test some wood ash for the heck of it.

I mixed it 1:2 by volume with sand, so that the final mix was 1/3 wood ash. I wasn't sure what the soil testing company would do if I sent them something other than soil.

So I made it, Soil-ish.

Bottom line, I would need to keep doing what I was already doing, using the Wood Ash very sparingly when mixing up a batch of soil.

Like 1 or 2 cups of wood ash for 1 cubic foot of soil.

The gallon is 128 ounces by volume, so 12 ounces of wood ash is about 1/10 gallon.

So I guess I'm mixing it up 1 part wood ash, 75 parts soil.

But I'm also adding chicken manure for NPK and Human Urine for Nitrogen, which perhaps does sound disgusting.

I was adding Bone Meal for Phosphorus, but after seeing the measurements for the Wood Ash I might use a little less Bone Meal. Because the Wood Ash also has a lot of Phosphorus, as does the Chicken Manure.

Though I do belong to the "Variety" school of thought, where multiple sources of a Plant Nutrient are possibly better than one source.
 

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