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Making diy drip rings

budsnblunts

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey all I'm a little stuck on making these holes in the piping I use as a ring. It's 4mm black tubing. I have the t pipes. I just don't know how big and how many holes I should make around the ring piece of hose... Thought I might check to see if any of yous have already gone through this problem or similar. If it helps I,n just going to be trying to gravity feed these until I get my head around the concept and find a water pump. They will only be feeding four plants at the time to. Cheers
 

Redbuddz

Member
Hey BudsNBlunts. I have not done what you're talking about but I do have some input for you. you certainly want holes around the entire circle so that the water is spread evenly. trial and error is going to be the way for you. Start with a few small holes and then judge your flow and amount. then simply increase the number of holes or the size or both.
Good Luck
Redbuddz
 

Gry

Well-known member
The holes in mine are the same size as the tip of my soldering iron. I went with about an inch apart. Did it years ago and still recall the smell. Best done outside on a windy day.
 

DARKSIDER

Official Seed Tester
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Use 4mm t.pieces cut the 4.5mm pipe 5 times and youre good to go I use them on my Wilma systems. I also use these instead of the maxi jet pump.. these kick out 3600 litres per hour and with a filter attached I'm more than happy and they are much more quiet than the maxijets ..

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DiverDave

Active member
DIY Sight Glass & Drip Feeder

DIY Sight Glass & Drip Feeder

I cant seem to find a way to post a 'how to' build.
So since this thread is a year old , I hope it answers a lot of questions for people.

And my latest project : Sight Glass & More

DD
 

DiverDave

Active member
Sight Glass & More

Sight Glass & More

Sight Glass Install:

Parts: mostly from Home Depo

5 gal bucket(s) , I will finish w/ 5 buckets/lids :
1 for pump/res./return-over flow or mixing from Top feed tank.
1 for Top Feed Tank / lid not holes.
1 for drain to waste or Tank ph/ppm/ec checks
to catch the dripps with lid off.
1 for pre mixing to fill res ahead of time.
1 will be for vacuum tank catcher(no saftys unless you watch the
sight glass as you use it w/ shop vac. all for removing liquids

inside of tent
Like for soil, an undr bucket runoff catcher.

Clear 3/8 I.D. X 1/2 O.D. Hose sold in 10 ft. length.
2 - 90 deg. 1/2 inch barb to 1/2 inch barb sold in (5 pac)k.
2 - 3/8 I.D. gromment sold in mixed set gommets 1/4 - 3/4 (8 pack).
1 - tube of silicon sealent/adhesive to be put into grove on grommets
during final assembly I'll call it 'Super Seal'.

Tools:

drill

drill bits: 3/16 ~ 7/16 bit for pilot holes.
1/2inch bit.
Assembly:
Gather 5 gal. buckets , measure 1 gal at a time to mark each gallon & half

gal , mark each.
maybe use thin masking tape as ref. , mark with perm marker to buckets.

Locate gal. marks for possitioning of your 'Sight Glass'
Find bottum of inside of bucket , place 3/8 inch grommet on outside
of bucket with some space above the bottom. Mark It!
Then place 2nd grommet above the top mark 3.5 gal or next ridge on align

with bottom mark.Mark IT!

Drill these 2 holes w/ 3/16 inch then 1/2 inch and finish
with reaming 9/16 inch and clean-up edges.

Test fit of each grommet and notice outside and inside seat face for fit.
Wet barb on the 90 deg 1/2 inch and feed it into grommet while holding
the inside of grommet to keep secure , its tight but it will seal.
Do the bottom one as well.

Point each barb @ one another inline w/ gal marks.
with this we can measure the 3/8 inch clear tubbing.
each end has to reach about half way over each barbend.
Cut It!

Pull the barbs out and attched hose. Watch for how hose hangs.
We want it to look like laying straight as possible when put back in.

Now 'Super Seal' grommets and seat them. Let stand/dry for a bit.

If the barbs are secure to hose and align with grommet holes
you can carefully insurting them while making sure
the walls of the grommets are aligned & secure.

You now have a 'Sight Glass' on your bucket.
Hope this helps.

DD
 

DiverDave

Active member
Bottom Bucket Reservoir:

Follow 'Sight Glass Install:' Do It!

This Reservoir bucket is done except for the Lid:

Tools Neede d:

Drill & 1 1/8 inch circle bit.
maybe even use a chunk of 2X4 under the lid for drilling slowly.

Assembly:

Locate your spots for the 2 or 3 holes:
1 hole for pump power.
1 hole for pump output hose.
1 hole for return of Top Feeder's Bucket - 'Over Flow'

Mark It!
Drill It!

Done!

Extra Equipment for This Bucket:

1 - Timer (I like the Centry digital 2 socket timer)
it has battery backup too!

1 - Water Pump: 120vac type.
next build it will be 12vdc w/ 12vdc timer.

1 - Aquarium Air pump , hose & Bubbler stone (I use check values too).

2 - 10 ft. lengths of clear 3/4 inch O.D X 1/2 inch I.D.

Optional :
5 gal. paint strainer bags , one for pump and other for bucket.

Assemble:
Pump to hose and zip tie paint strainer bag around pump end w/ hose
sticking out and run through hole in Lid.
Put the other net bag around bucket and set pump inside.
Feed the power cord thru a hole.
Assemble air bubbler , check valve / hose. Feed thru hole.

The extra 3/4 inch clear hose is for the 'Top Feeder Tank' Over Fill.

DD
 

DiverDave

Active member


Gravity Feed Bucket:

Follow 'Sight Glass Install:' Do It!

The Top Feed Bucket Lid is done.

Tools Needed:

Drill
Drill Bits: 3/8 inch bit for 1/4 inch grommet at top of bucket (Air Hose).

a 3/16 ~ 7/16 bit.
a 1/2 inch bit.
a stepper bit w/ 9/16 inch on it, for hand reaming.

All for making holes for 3/4 inch grommets.
for 'Over Flow' & Pumps Output to Fill 'Feeder Tank' holes.

Build:

Lay Bucket down w/ 'Sight Glass' facing you.
Find a spot in line w/ Gal. Gauge @ about 3.5 gal area 'Over Flow'.
Place 3/4 inch grommet there.
Take second one and place it over second lip above 'Over Flow'

Spread them out so they look symmetrical
off the sides of the 'Sight Glass'.

Mark It!
Drill It!
Clean It!

Seat Grommets , then 'Super Seal'.

Done?

Lets pre-pair to hang bucket , use shelf brackets bolted down up high
to hang bucket from.

Parts List: (A lot of Parts)

Teflon Tape to tape All male threads.

You can substitute parts where needed.
I used a bunch of fittings for my taste.

Lets start w/ 'Over Flow' & 'FIll' fittings. (1 each)

1 - PVC 1/2 inch barbed X female threaded couple.
1 - brass 1/2 inch male to male (Teflon here as we go)
1 - teflon 1/2 inch female to barb.

Assemble 2 sets in that order and tighten.
Put the teflon barb into : hoses from last bucket :
10 ft. length of clear 3/4 inch O.D X 1/2 inch I.D. for 'Over Flow'.
and the end from the pumps 10 ft.length of clear 3/4 inch O.D X 1/2 inch I.D. for the 'Fill'

I used (2) 1/4 inch 90 deg barbs to make air hose connection
thru bucket (small piece of tubing and other 90 deg on inside of bucket)
to create in and down of air line .. assemble hose check valve and stone.

Good so far ?

Next steps for bottom:
flip upside down:

Parts:

2 - Faucet shank extenders/nuts
2 - 3/4 inch rubber O'rings
2 - 1/2 inch ProPlus ball valve female on both ends.
1 - 1/2 inch male to smooth - this for 'Mixing' or 'Drain' down pipe.
1 - 4~6 inch riser 1/2 inch male both ends (Teflon here)

Assembly:

Use dremal tool to cut off most of the female side of the
Faucet shank extenders to about 3/8 ~ 1/2 inch left.
File clean and put O'ring on.

Drill holds for both extenders off center of bucket bottom.

Pass the extenders thru and tighten with the nuts that came with them.

you can teflon tape the male ends before screwing the ball valves on.

For 'Mixing' or 'Drain' Side:

Prepair a bucket w/ 'Sight Glass' and Lid w/ 1 1/8 inch hole near center.
Get a length of pvc (maybe 4 foot long). Smooth off the end w/ file.
This is your Drain pipe and bucket on floor under the 'Feeder Tank'.

'Mixer Hose' Parts:

1 - 3/8 inch I.D. x 1/2 inch O.D. x 10 feet long.
1 - 1/2 inch x 8 inch riser male both ends.

you will need to cut riser in half and clean one smooth end
and put teflon male end.
Fit this into socket on 'Drain" valve.
You may have to wrap some telflon tape around it to fatten it up
for a seal (push hand tight).
on the bottom of male riser connect

1 - 1/2 inch pvc female to female coupler.
1 - 1/2 inch male thread to 1/2 inch teflon barb.
Teflon male thread and assemble.
Connect 3/8 inch I.D. x 1/2 inch O.D. clear hose.
This is used to drain 'Feeder' back to Res for mixing or draining.

Feeder Ball Valve Side Parts/Assembly:

Teflon tape all male ends before assembling on Feeder Ball Valve side.

1 - 1/2 inch pvc female to female coupling.
1 - 1/2 inch male thread to 1/2 inch barb.
1 - 4~6 inch length of clear 1/2 inch O.D.
1 - 3/8 inch barb to female 1/2 inch threaded.
1 - 1/2 inch male to 1/2 inch barbed.

assemble in order.

1 - 12 feet black 5/8 inch O.D. x 1/2 inch drip line hose.

connect to clear hose and feed into tent.

I will save the next part for later ..
You will want an end plug for this in the mean time.
So buy it and test for the fit over end of black hose.

I set pump timer to run for 1 min. every 6 hrs.
And manually when I'm using it to mix and stuff.

Hope this helps.

DD
 

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DiverDave

Active member
Tent Drip Lines:

Tools needed:

Drip line hole punch , I bought the deluxe gun style hole punch.

1 - package of 1/4 inch to 1/4 inch barbs.
1 - 1/4 inch clear hose.
1 - pack of 1/4 inch barbed 3 way T's.
1 - pack of 1/4 inch in-line shut off valves.
2 - pack tubing stabilizer stakes.

Assemble:

Cap end of black hose and maybe tie rap to tent pole.
I am thinking maybe later put another ball valve inside of tent
so I can shut down faster if problems.

Pop hole in black hose with gun , insert barb into hose.
Stretch clear hose from extended barb to your first bucket.
Cut and mount in-line shut off valve to this hose , make a short piece
to connect the 3 way barb to it.

Drip tube:
1/4 inch clear X 8 inch long.
Flip to form circle and drill tinny holes about 2 inches apart.

Make an 8 inch circle under/around plant with 1/4 inch clear tubing
w/ holes facing down and ends connected to the free barb ends of 3 way.

use the stabilizer stakes to hold hose , 3 to 5 per plant.

Make sure you have catch buckets under your soil/ grow buckets.

Later making Vacuum bucket for over run/excess liquids.

DD

I will take a photo of V2 drip ring - 8 inches & stand offs.
After lights on .. in about an hour.
 

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DiverDave

Active member
Things 2 do:

finish vacuum reservoir bucket.
add check valves to most hoses.
change over to 12vdc system water pump & timer.


I hope this helps , leave comments and add your ideas to this thread.

DD
 

DiverDave

Active member
Tent Drip Lines:

Tools needed:

Drip line hole punch , I bought the deluxe gun style hole punch.

1 - package of 1/4 inch to 1/4 inch barbs.
1 - 1/4 inch clear hose.
1 - pack of 1/4 inch barbed 3 way T's.
1 - pack of 1/4 inch in-line shut off valves.
2 - pack tubing stabilizer stakes.

Assemble:

Cap end of black hose and maybe tie rap to tent pole.
I am thinking maybe later put another ball valve inside of tent
so I can shut down faster if problems.

Pop hole in black hose with gun , insert barb into hose.
Stretch clear hose from extended barb to your first bucket.
Cut and mount in-line shut off valve to this hose , make a short piece
to connect the 3 way barb to it.

Drip tube:
1/4 inch clear X 8 inch long.
Flip to form circle and drill tinny holes about 2 inches apart.

Make an 8 inch circle under/around plant with 1/4 inch clear tubing
w/ holes facing down and ends connected to the free barb ends of 3 way.

use the stabilizer stakes to hold hose , 3 to 5 per plant.

Make sure you have catch buckets under your soil/ grow buckets.

Later making Vacuum bucket for over run/excess liquids.

DD

I will take a photo of V2 drip ring - 8 inches & stand offs.
After lights on .. in about an hour.
Here is an 8 inch drip ring.
 

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DiverDave

Active member
Most folks don't use clear tubing for any kind of feed lines. Algae will grow in the clear tubes when exposed to light over time, even quicker when nutrients are in the water.

Thank you , your right .. I have been noticing this over the last week or two.
I have also noticed w/ gravity feed , you will need 2 rings to soak
the media well.
I have a servo on the way , but am also thinking pump with the timer.

As you recommend switching out clear lines with black.
Good call.

Another note : the buckets will never work well with a shop vac.
Just too much suction power for the bucket.

I have removed most of the check valves except on air lines.
The standard check valves have restriction that gravity has a difficult time with.
So I have some normally closed servos on there way for testing.

Thank you for comments.
 

Badfishy1

Active member
wouldnt a controller bucket negate pretty much all of that?

and all of that clear tubing cant be good

Nice job reading thread before posting. Guess you missed the post previous to yours where he states changing clear to black tubing is a good call.
 

DiverDave

Active member
I did change the tubing to all black , also removed the check valves and rebuilt using norm closed valve servos , that worked nicer.
But since that grow has been finished for some time , I am moving on to hydro
in hopes for far better results.
I will continue to build towards doing everything in 12vdc over doing it under 120vac
due to how stable (NOT) the electricity is here.

Thanks for following and comments.
Appreciate all the input and followers.
 

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