Amber in 15 minutes from cutting

Wfw1 · Feb 20, 2009

gunnaknow said:
Yes, Wfw1. He said that a 1/4 pound of fresh bud yields about the same as an oz of dry. A 1/4 pound is 113.5g and once dried weed loses over 3/4 of it's weight in moisture, which would leave no more than 28g. So just as he reported, the yield from 1/4 pound of fresh bud is going to be about the same as the yield from an oz of dried bud.

Ah great thanks, I don't have alot of experience with wet material I'm 19 so I don't have alot of grow experience yet, so I wasn't sure, and yes jump your completely correct if your getting all the resin out it does not matter because you have everything there is to take.

gunnaknow said:
No, it was Blayz'd that you're thinking of. I initially raised the idea of using butane on fresh plant material in your other thread because it discussed the use of alcohol on fresh plant material. The two methods were related and I was already planning to respond to Blayzd's post, so I brought the subject up in your thread.

If you had any idea how bad my jaw hurts from it hitting the floor so freakin hard you'd have simpathy pain lol damn gunna how could you not tell us you had results like that? Burns' result was very nice too, that's what I'd shoot for cause it would be easier for me to store. Looks like I'm going to have to put a little effort into finding some fresh plant material soon. I'm blown away, I can't believe that color.

Now please correct me if I'm wrong but this method would not make your oil/budder material any stronger/more potent then regular BHO of the same bud right? It's not going to make more resin then whats there so how could it? Other then you may perceive it to be stronger because for example 1 pin drop of BHO might be 45%THC and 55% junk (no basis to these numbers I'm really not sure and if anyone has any idea please let me know.)

if that's what your used to and that oil/budder is 65%THC and 35% junk the same size drop(s) that your used too is going to get you higher because of less material in it that has no effect on you? Is this true or do I make no sense? Well that's all the amazement and thought my brain can handle right now so I guess it's time to burn one.

Stay high and stay safe!

gunnaknow · Feb 20, 2009

Wfw1 said:
Looks like I'm going to have to put a little effort into finding some fresh plant material soon.

Jump has been looking into rehydrating dried plant material to see if it produces the same results as fresh plant material.

I'm blown away, I can't believe that color.

It's unlikely that one would get budder that colour every time than one extracted from fresh material. It would have had alot to do with the strain, amongst other things. However, yes the extraction should in theory be cleaner from fresh or rehydrated plant material.

Now please correct me if I'm wrong but this method would not make your oil/budder material any stronger/more potent then regular BHO of the same bud right? It's not going to make more resin then whats there so how could it? Other then you may perceive it to be stronger because for example 1 pin drop of BHO might be 45%THC and 55% junk (no basis to these numbers I'm really not sure and if anyone has any idea please let me know.)

It's not going to change the yield or potency significantly. It may decrease the amount of undesirable substances in the oil and therefore make it slightly more concentrated and slightly less voluminous but the main reason for using fresh plant material is because of the speed, fewer undesirable substances to inhale, improved appearance and perhaps improved taste and smell.

Gunna

Wfw1 · Feb 20, 2009

gunnaknow said:
Jump has been looking into rehydrating dried plant material to see if it produces the same results as fresh plant material.

Ah that's a good idea too, now I've used a humidor to moisten up very dry bud sometimes to make it nicer to roll and smoke but are you going to be able to thoroughly saturate it enough to be the same moisture level as fresh? or will it be worth the effort if you can?

It's unlikely that one would get budder that colour every time than one extracted from fresh material. It would have had alot to do with the strain, amongst other things. However, yes the extraction should in theory be cleaner from fresh or rehydrated plant material.

Yes, color that vivid I would imagine may vary but still anything close to that is going to catch someones interest.

It's not going to change the yield or potency significantly. It may decrease the amount of undesirable substances in the oil and therefore make it slightly more concentrated and slightly less voluminous but the main reason for using fresh plant material is because of the speed, fewer undesirable substances to inhale, improved appearance and perhaps improved taste and smell.

Yep exactly that's all I was really figuring, I bet you that stuff is probably very smooth to hit isn't it? cause my BHO is much easier to hit then the stuff I buy so in theory something that clean should be even smoother.

gunnaknow · Feb 20, 2009

Wfw1 said:
Ah that's a good idea too, now I've used a humidor to moisten up very dry bud sometimes to make it nicer to roll and smoke but are you going to be able to thoroughly saturate it enough to be the same moisture level as fresh? or will it be worth the effort if you can?

Yes, it can be fully rehydrated by submerging in water but whether full rehydration is necessary or worthwhile is still to be determined. A partial rehydration via humidification may be enough to get the desired results. See page four for more information.

Gunna

jump117 · Feb 22, 2009

I’ve prepared two samples from one dried bud.

The one was water-cured in three days until ppm=140in/160out.

Then I put both samples in a small closed mason jar in a warm place.
After they spent a night together the samples seemed to have the same humidity.
Both were plastic and flexible but not resilient.

I made two ethanol (chilled to -20C) runs (2min + 2min) from these samples.
The first runs were both ambers of approximately same density and color.
The second runs were different.

Strange but water-cured sample’s second run was a goo while straight one’s was a stoned resin.

The only explanation I see is that non-polar unwanted oils/waxes that provide runny resin were
protected against a solvent with a shield made of water soluble terpens.

Everything must be done in a correct manner in a right time to be good and easy.
Freshness disappear is irreversible process we all are living in.

I think here we arrived at a limits of amberness and my albums reached it’s limits too.

Jump!

Wfw1 · Feb 23, 2009

Well that gives very interesting insight into re-hydration but that could also be the result of a certain type of re-hydration maybe a different method, (steam or humidor) could possibly have different results or do you think it's a polarity thing?

bonecarver_OG · Feb 26, 2009

hey jump!

nice thread u got here

i got inspired and ordered 2 liters of food grade 96% ethanol. i got about 600 grams of trim that i earlier did a fairly unproductive ice-hash run with. i have since dried the trim material..

so basicly im going to work with material that was first dried, then soaked and frozen, and then dried again.

im going to use the quick wash method using several jars that i have distributed the material in.

lets see if i got things rigth - i will freeze the alcohol to start with, and i will do as quick washes as possible - 15 secs - since i really dont want it to get too green etc.

if im lucky i get my order of the alcohol in a few days - and im ready to give it a try.

jut some thoughts - the trim was VERY resinous, in the ice hash session i got out only 15 grams of hash out of 600 g of material - the material is still very very resinous and since the first extraction just got out around 2% in relation to weigth - i think there should be a good amount of resin for oil left. im hoping for if possible about 20 grams or more of oil.

peace!

jump117 · Feb 26, 2009

bonecarver_OG said:
... i will do as quick washes as possible - 15 secs - since i really dont want it to get too green etc.
... i think there should be a good amount of resin for oil left.

Hola bonecarver_OG! :smile:

2 liters of food grade 96% ethanol is a very good thing that will never be a burden!

It seems to me 15 secs is too short for ethanol. I hope you’ll try small amounts first to adjust a correct timing and number of runs.

The ice hash session being a water procedure was not a good prelude for ethanol extraction. I think water washes out a terpen protective cover from an unidentified internal resin softener that starts to extract faster and provides a runny resin effect.

jump

Megas · Feb 26, 2009

how many of u guys wash ur plants? Or wash them in grain alcohol out of curiosity?

bonecarver_OG · Feb 27, 2009

jump117 said:
Hola bonecarver_OG! :smile:

2 liters of food grade 96% ethanol is a very good thing that will never be a burden!

It seems to me 15 secs is too short for ethanol. I hope you’ll try small amounts first to adjust a correct timing and number of runs.

The ice hash session being a water procedure was not a good prelude for ethanol extraction. I think water washes out a terpen protective cover from an unidentified internal resin softener that starts to extract faster and provides a runny resin effect.

jump

yeah the ice hash session was a mess-up mostly because we were greedy and used all 600grams of trim in a small set of bags - it just compacted up on us and didnt let the trichs fall thru..

so this oil session is for trying to save the resin left in the material.

if there is a chance the oil gets to be very low quality, it would suck since the foodgrade alcohol is very expensive compared to butane.

but using butane for 600 grams of material is a tidious task and i rather give a shot to a quicker way of extracting it all, so its worth a test at least.

im jsut a bit scetchy about the thing - because as you pointed out - the material has been treated badly and might give results acordingly.

in the end i was going to mix the oil with a chunk of moroc hash i got - so if the oil is a slight bit runny there is no serious problem, AS LONG as the flavour is NOT BAD. that would suck to ruin the hash on top of having a crappy oil hehehe

hehe cant wait to get the alcohol for doing a test.
so i can stop stressing hehe

peace

jump117 · Feb 28, 2009

Hola bonecarver_OG!

bonecarver_OG said:
we were greedy…

I do not believe this!

I’d rather say you were impatience because you wanted to do it QUICK.
And I understand you very much after looking at your pix.
You have a beautiful plants and wonderful flowers, pleased to meet a great grower!

When I’m looking at this fresh sugar snow I lamented bitterly for irrevocability of freshness.
It would be so QUICK to wash them in right time when they were fresh.

Now this turning point is passed.

I am not sure and never sad that ethanol is the very best instrument to save the resin left in the material after destructive ice-water mixing.
I never had such kind of material to learn because I never had bags.
Btw why don’t you repeat ice-washing?

I had a number of processings with another poor bonsai leaves that contains poor amount of poor capitate sessile glands only.
Here ethanol-on-fresh wins VS butan-on-dried.
But this is not the same stuff.

I’ve tested one more time a proposition about profits of re-hydration.
I took two crispy dried twin air buds, steamed one of them 15 minutes and washed both in two runs (1+2) mins.
The pre-humidified sample (right) was extracted better.

bonecarver_OG said:
…if there is a chance the oil gets to be very low quality, it would suck since the foodgrade alcohol is very expensive compared to butane.

I’m afraid there is a chance the oil gets to be very low quality.
Probably it’s better to keep an expensive reactive until the time when fresh stuff will come.

Jump!

Wfw1 · Feb 28, 2009

Very nice result jump.

Grinchy · Feb 28, 2009

mosfetti said:
I had a mortuary black result, starting from an emerald green solution (I used fresh cuts in 95% ethanol for 2/3 days)
I suggest to do a quickwash, 15-20 sec to obtain a more amber like, and probably better quality product.

I would do 30-60 seconds on fresh material, 20 or less on dry - just long enough to soak the material. Judge by the color of the liquid used to extract. Gold is good, green will turn nasty black - chlorophyll and plant matter.

I use 90% Iso on the freshest material possible.

Skunkman_Vienna · Mar 11, 2009

i will try it with
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichloromethane
that should work also with dried buds.

Wfw1 · Mar 12, 2009

Yep but 30 sec tops on dry for your first wash depending on whether you want quality or quantity.

Edit: But make sure your aware of possible side effects of any solvents you use. For yours nd others safety of course.

blackone · Oct 23, 2009

Amazing extraction

And the low yield of the subsequent BHO extraction shows promises!
I wonder how easy it would be to turn this into some really great budder - perhaps in the final phase of the purge.
Could also be fun to see if the THC would precipitate if the ethanol was mixed with water after extraction, just like when you mix anise liquor with water. Or perhaps the THC would prevent the liquids from mixing.

This thread would shine if someone with a good scale would recreate the experiment and report weights

bonecarver_OG · Oct 23, 2009

Dichloromethane is the least toxic of the simple chlorohydrocarbons, but it is not without its health risks as its high volatility makes it an acute inhalation hazard.[4] Dichloromethane is also metabolised by the body to carbon monoxide potentially leading to carbon monoxide poisoning.[5] Acute exposure by inhalation has resulted in optic neuropathy[6] and hepatitis.[7] Prolonged skin contact can result in the dichloromethane dissolving some of the fatty tissues in skin, resulting in skin irritation or chemical burns.[8]

It may be carcinogenic, as it has been linked to cancer of the lungs, liver, and pancreas in laboratory animals.[9] Dichloromethane crosses the placenta. Fetal toxicity in women who are exposed to it during pregnancy however has not been proven.[10] In animal experiments it was fetotoxic at doses that were maternally toxic but no teratogenic effects were seen.[9]

In many countries products containing dichloromethane must carry labels warning of its health risks.

In the European Union use of dichloromethane in paint-strippers was banned for consumers and many professionals.[11]

uff! sounds a bit hardcore to me...

jump117 · Oct 23, 2009

blackone said:
...Could also be fun to see if the THC would precipitate if the ethanol was mixed with water after extraction, ...

Hi blackone!
It would be perfect but - no.., THC doesn't precipitate, mixing ethanol solution with water gives no benefit.

Skunkman_Vienna said:
i will try it with http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichloromethane that should work also with dried buds.

bonecarver_OG said:
uff! sounds a bit hardcore to me...

Hola bonecarver_OG! Nice to see you again in this thread!
I'm afraid it was probably a real hardcore to Skunkman_Vienna ... :frown:

his Last Activity: 04-04-2009.

StRa · Nov 23, 2009

Really nice 3d and great pics!
Thanks Jump!

Blayz'd · Dec 6, 2009

gunnaknow said:
It's unlikely that one would get budder that colour every time than one extracted from fresh material. It would have had alot to do with the strain, amongst other things

Sup Gunna, I think your right bro. I'm starting to think I'll never see that stuff again.

Just for jumps thread. That gold stuff was esb x holyweed, fresh plant material. Butane used to extract. No heat used in the process at all. The oil turned out less firm than usual, enough so that I could draw with it. Which I did. I used a pin and drew a picture in oil as you would do with a quill and ink. After maybe... an hour or so of drawing, the oil started to become tough and harder to put the pin through until about 1 hour 10-20 mins it set to a solid state. I've tried since to replicate it but I've had no luck. I think it may have been a one off, where I just got lucky. The smell and taste were something else with that gold stuff though. The butane extraction rarely seems to carry much of the turpines through to the oil, for me at least. That one kept the smell of the bud and made it more pronounced than it was on the plant. That's the best oil I've made so far. That's what I'll be chasing from now on until I know exactly how to do it every time... so that I carry the scent of the bud to the oil. As for the colour, I think that was luck and the strain. Some times oil comes out dark, sometimes light. I'm not sure it's possible to control the resulting colour of the oil. It's just a chance game with colour as far as I'm concerned. Although a butane extraction does seem to result in a lighter colour it would seem. I'm still quite unsure about this oil business.. but it sure is fun to play with. From now on I'll not use heat in the process and see what happens.

Is Jump still about? I was hoping he would carry on his research and teach me some more stuff lol

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