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A Taste of Africa from Malawi
- Thread starter Zanddar
- Start date
Artistick Seeds
Active member
Malawi from 2012, it’s been a long time since I grew it, but one of my favorites. Big yield, despite pots of 3.5 liters only, under 600W. A lot of resin that comes off easily, perfect for a dry hash. The high was just wonderful, with a lot of laughter. Sorry for the poor quality of pictures
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Michaeldivecenzio
New member
Would y’all recommend feminized or regular seeds for finding the really potent phenotypes
FeelHaze
Well-known member
I wanted to have some advices on my Malawi grow.
We are at day 51 in the flowering stage (12/12).
I've been having a hard time figuring out feeding with that specific plant.
For a couple weeks, it has been showing slight yellowing from the top and burned leaf tips. Also, the tops are foxtailing quite a bit, which doesn't bother me, but I'm asking myself if its a genetic trait or a light stress/too much N issue.
Plant is grown organically in soil. I did feed 1/4 dose of activated silica during the stretch and I also started to give half doses of organic bloom booster weekly since the end of week 5.
Light is a SpiderFarmer SF2000 and its 20 inches away from the top. I read 610 PPFD at the top.
Temps during the day are around 24 celcius and RH 50%.
Her sisters (Panama and Killer A5 Haze) have none of these symptoms.
Overfeeding ?
Too much N ?
Light stress ?
PH ?
We are at day 51 in the flowering stage (12/12).
I've been having a hard time figuring out feeding with that specific plant.
For a couple weeks, it has been showing slight yellowing from the top and burned leaf tips. Also, the tops are foxtailing quite a bit, which doesn't bother me, but I'm asking myself if its a genetic trait or a light stress/too much N issue.
Plant is grown organically in soil. I did feed 1/4 dose of activated silica during the stretch and I also started to give half doses of organic bloom booster weekly since the end of week 5.
Light is a SpiderFarmer SF2000 and its 20 inches away from the top. I read 610 PPFD at the top.
Temps during the day are around 24 celcius and RH 50%.
Her sisters (Panama and Killer A5 Haze) have none of these symptoms.
Overfeeding ?
Too much N ?
Light stress ?
PH ?
Last edited:
Nextgeneration73
Well-known member
I don't know man, I have the same concern myself, you can check out my pics as well.... Yours still look okay with the burned tips....
For raw potency feminized Maalwi version is a better choice, since it is produced using our most 2 powerful Malawi Killers with higest THC content.
Very well grown indoors, @ArtistickSeeds! Thanks for your contribution. I'm glad the finished product was resinous, potent, and made you laugh a lot
. Was it the regular or feminized version from back then?
Hi @FeelHaze What's the growing media ? And ph and ec in your watering and feedings ? These two variables are where you should focus your attention, the rest of the variables seem fine.
That's a beneficial trait for yield if the genotype consistently maintains it over time.
exoticrobotic
Well-known member
Do you see this 3 leaf/node trait in more Africans vs others?
I ask cos i seen it in OT1's Oldtimes, male and females which is part Nigerian. 2 out of 3 seem to show it.
Hi FeelHaze
That's normal if you're feeding full strength noots. You can dilute the noots by about a 3rd and it should improve. Or you can alternate a straight water day and feed day, until you find what works. Organics are a bit more forgiving, but you will definitely have to go on straight water later in flower.
I use an organic tea and no other additives. In veg they can be fed full strength, but in late flower it is mostly just water for about 3 weeks or until finish. I watch how much the plant is pushing out new pistils to determine when it goes on straight water. When growth slows it's time for only water. This is my feeding regiment for any plant I grow. Pretty simple and basic needs. Hope this helps.
That's normal if you're feeding full strength noots. You can dilute the noots by about a 3rd and it should improve. Or you can alternate a straight water day and feed day, until you find what works. Organics are a bit more forgiving, but you will definitely have to go on straight water later in flower.
I use an organic tea and no other additives. In veg they can be fed full strength, but in late flower it is mostly just water for about 3 weeks or until finish. I watch how much the plant is pushing out new pistils to determine when it goes on straight water. When growth slows it's time for only water. This is my feeding regiment for any plant I grow. Pretty simple and basic needs. Hope this helps.
