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3 way liming mix
- Thread starter bigshrimp
- Start date
This is CC's 3-way lime mix based off Steve Soloman's 3-way lime mix.
1 part powdered dolomite
1 part agricultural gypsum
2 parts powdered oyster shell
1 to 2 tablespoons lime mix per gallon of peat moss...NOT soil mix. Or 1 cup per cubic foot of peat moss.
1 part powdered dolomite
1 part agricultural gypsum
2 parts powdered oyster shell
1 to 2 tablespoons lime mix per gallon of peat moss...NOT soil mix. Or 1 cup per cubic foot of peat moss.
had to dig this thread up to remind myself of the ratio, i lost one of my soil recipe notebooks in a recent move....
im adding azomite into the mix at less than .5 part, simply because i have it around
im adding azomite into the mix at less than .5 part, simply because i have it around
Dab Strudel
Active member
I feel that brother, both of my notebooks got displaced recently. Im backing everything up on a thumb drive here on out
fyi the updated mineral mix is
per 1 cubic foot base mix add:
1 cup oyster shell powder
1 cup gypsum
1 cup basalt rock dust
1 cup glacial rock dust
azomite should make a good 1:1 replacement for the glacial rock dust.
per 1 cubic foot base mix add:
1 cup oyster shell powder
1 cup gypsum
1 cup basalt rock dust
1 cup glacial rock dust
azomite should make a good 1:1 replacement for the glacial rock dust.
so... heady
are we talking per 1 cu foot of base mix (meaning peat, compost AND aeration material like perlite or ricehulls) OR are we talking about per 1 cu foot of PEAT?
i was under the impression that the PEAT needed to be limed and the liming mix was simply to treat the peat, but not neccessary to treat perlite and compost parts of base mix.
the difference is.... large if you are using 1:1:1 peat:compost:aeration material.
you're right it's the peat that needs to be pH buffered.
but the ratios above are for use per cubic foot of base mix.
good idea to clarify!
but the ratios above are for use per cubic foot of base mix.
good idea to clarify!
yes, good clarification HB, thanks again !
Rock dusts are mostly neutral, no?
Have you used this mix at that rate?
At least we aren't trying to lime with crab shell. Those poor fools on GC.
MrBungle
Active member
By pH neutral I mean something like gypsum, not the scale. I may be misusing the term.
In my opinion its the calcium that raises the acidic nature of some mixes especially peat base mix'es.
Being crab shell is 24% calcium of course it will have a liming affect.
Ratz
When I see ph. neutral I think it does nothing to influence the ph. of whatever mix.
In my opinion its the calcium that raises the ph.
Being crab shell is 24% calcium of course it will have a liming affect.
Ratz
A liming effect from the calcium carbonate. Elemental calcium, nein. Think gypsum again.
To use as a sole source is just hilarballs.
i've used that mix or a mix very much like it, using NO dolomite lime and only gypsum, oystershell meal, azomite, basalt, and local sand as minerals/ liming agents.
haven't had problems,
only problem is remembering the specifics when it's time to mix more.
MrBungle
Active member
http://education.seattlepi.com/happens-ph-acidic-solution-pure-water-added-6028.html
similar logic with media
While using crab shell and in knowing it brings much calcium to the mix its true I don't think of that amount of calcium carbonate as a liming agent but still take in that it is there.
I am a organic peep that thinks that soils balancing goes far in growing our favorite and when it comes to balancing a mix out I see calcium as the most needed element.
I am a big fan of Michael Astera of "soil minerals" who advocates that calcium should make up 65-70% of the base mix, with both calcium and mag. making up to 80%m of the base saturation rate.
Back in the day Dolomitic lime was the main supplier of buffering peat base low ph.
My use of dolomite is but 1/3 of what it used to be with oyster shell as my main input of calcium and ph. buffering I also have taken to using Gypsum a calcium sulfate.
With the sulfate salt in gypsum is a neutral salt the calcium still has some ph. buffering capabilities.
I also opine when getting a mixes base saturation ratios anywhere close to 65-70% calcium, 10-15% magnesium with K between 3-5% the ph. of the mix will self stabilize between 6.2-6.4 what I consider the sweet spot.
I like to use the analogy of cooks in the kitchen when thinking of all the roads to success to being a understanding care giver of our favorite plant.
While having many different recipes to serving up some tasty treats.
Your pal
Ratz
I am a organic peep that thinks that soils balancing goes far in growing our favorite and when it comes to balancing a mix out I see calcium as the most needed element.
I am a big fan of Michael Astera of "soil minerals" who advocates that calcium should make up 65-70% of the base mix, with both calcium and mag. making up to 80%m of the base saturation rate.
Back in the day Dolomitic lime was the main supplier of buffering peat base low ph.
My use of dolomite is but 1/3 of what it used to be with oyster shell as my main input of calcium and ph. buffering I also have taken to using Gypsum a calcium sulfate.
With the sulfate salt in gypsum is a neutral salt the calcium still has some ph. buffering capabilities.
I also opine when getting a mixes base saturation ratios anywhere close to 65-70% calcium, 10-15% magnesium with K between 3-5% the ph. of the mix will self stabilize between 6.2-6.4 what I consider the sweet spot.
I like to use the analogy of cooks in the kitchen when thinking of all the roads to success to being a understanding care giver of our favorite plant.
While having many different recipes to serving up some tasty treats.
Your pal
Ratz
i add 1/2 cup of crustacean meal (mixed crab and shrimp) per cu ft also... just don't consider that part of the "liming mix" and more of an "amendment"
my2cents
my2cents
Bush Doctah
New member
Sorry to beat this liming thing to death, but Burn1 burned this issue into my head... for which I thank him of course!
So, Gas said you lime only the peat, but the consensus now is that you lime the base mix as a whole. Does this mean that the "excess" oyster shell flour doesn't "over-lime" the mix raising the pH too far but rather simply adds calcium to the mix? This, obviously, is a good thing and would explain why both approaches work, but suggests that liming the base mix would be the better option.
Has anyone tested the pHs of these two approaches?
Thanks for any thoughts.
BD
So, Gas said you lime only the peat, but the consensus now is that you lime the base mix as a whole. Does this mean that the "excess" oyster shell flour doesn't "over-lime" the mix raising the pH too far but rather simply adds calcium to the mix? This, obviously, is a good thing and would explain why both approaches work, but suggests that liming the base mix would be the better option.
Has anyone tested the pHs of these two approaches?
Thanks for any thoughts.
BD
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