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Old 04-17-2018, 04:38 AM #761
StinkFart
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hello. Was reading thread about latitude and what that means concerning sunlight time. Didn’t go in how you go about tracking/finding that information for your latitude.
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Old 04-17-2018, 04:47 AM #762
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Two of the plants from last yr no more than 5gal holes filled with organic soil mix from local nursery. Used water crystals only lost 1 plant due to lack of water. Fox farm granules for pk boost.
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Old 04-17-2018, 04:48 AM #763
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Sorry about the sideways photo ended up about 4ft tall had the pull early due to mold. Running stream about 10 yards away so i could visit daily at night but don't want to lol. How are you guys digging these huge holes? 1 man auger.

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Old 04-17-2018, 05:47 AM #764
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I'm weighing my options for a summer grow this year after a long hiatus, and with negotiations with my wife for an indoor grow going south, I've been eyeing some woods in my area as potential guerilla plots. I've read through this whole thread and have learned a lot, but I have some questions.

1. I live in a medium city with a lot of neighborhoods separated by hills and cliffs, with a good amount of unmaintained forested land scattered around. I like the look of a couple of spots like this for smaller plants, like auto-ak47 or flo. What I wonder is just how far the scent of a small plant can travel. The spots I'm considering are bordered by roads, houses, and businesses, and are maybe a few hundred yards across at the widest point. I'm pretty confident I could keep the plants from being seen, but if people can smell it from their back yard, it might raise a red flag.

2. I've been considering a couple of big parks with hiking trails for larger plants, namely PNG and Durban Poison. I'd rather they didn't get 10+ feet tall, as I'm only growing for my own stash, and I'd like to keep them well hidden. I know growing in a pot can restrict growth, but it requires frequent visits to water and feed. Would a buried fabric pot allow the same kind of water retention as planting in the ground while controlling the size of the plant by restricting it's roots? Or would it be better to plant the big tropical varieties later in the season? Maybe both?

3. I read about drying on site by hanging a plant upside down, possibly under a tarp. If the relative humidity at harvest time is super high, would putting branches into 5gal buckets with dessicant packs work?

4. I've read that seeding a plant can speed maturation. Does anyone have any experience with this? I was planning to make seed in my indoor grow this season, and if I have to go outdoors, I'll probably still plant 3 or so of each variety in hopes of getting a male or two. Do any of you think seeding a plant that normally takes 16-20 weeks would reduce the flowering time very much?

Thanks to everyone that's contributed to this thread. It's a great read and it's super informative. I hope everyone has a great season!
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:31 AM #765
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What to start with....

The spot dictates the method. It can also dictate the strains. No use growing sativas in a climate where they would never finish.

"pretty confident" won't cut it. Unless you know that if you got in the spot that the plant will be and stayed there for a few good hours and nobody would see you, then why risk it? Yes, if there is fast moving traffic in the area or people just don't give it a second look, it can be done. Also in a city you can always walk by the place with shopping bags with a water bottle in there.

Restricting growth can be done in many ways. Supercropping, fim, last, crunching the stem a bit, mainlining,.... Or just plant later. Later in the dirt, less time to grow before flowering.

I wouldn't try the bucket thing. But that's just me.

Seeding? Pollination makes them mature faster? That's a new one for me. Can't comment on it. But I doubt it. There would be a market for that. Either a lot of hash and cheap seeds, or really cheap seeded bud.
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:29 AM #766
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Thanks for the feedback. I've only been looking for potential plots recently as I drive around town. If I go this route, I'll probably plant later in the season to be sure I can spend some time in each spot with all the surrounding vegetation leafed out to get a really good feel for visibility. I'd love to get some trail cams to keep an eye on things, but if I were going to spend that kind of money, I might as well build a cabinet.

I guess trying to finish a plant that comes from 6 degrees south of the equator this far north would be a losing battle. It probably wouldn't start flowering til after the equinox, and then it would want to run til Dec or Jan. I may still try for the sake of making some seed, but we'll see how things go.

The bucket idea is a little strange, I admit. I looked up the average rh for Oct around here, and it looks like it's ~70%, which I think I could work with.

I may have misunderstood what I read regarding pollination speeding maturity. I probably saw 4-6 weeks for seed maturity and got confused. I don't even remember where I saw it. Oh well...

Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:30 AM #767
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^that, just plant later if you want smaller plants.

a buried smartpot will probably dry out a bit slower as an aboveground smartpot, since it's not evaporating water out the sides.

but the big thing why full soil doesn't need as much water is because the roots expand more, they cover a larger volume of soil, so if all that soil can hold a certain % of it's weight in water, more soil covered by roots=more water available to the plant.
but if you're restricting the roots to a small volume with a buried smartpot, you don't get that benefit.

btw, I haven't noticed seedede plants maturing earlier. I often pollinate a branch or two, the seeds themselves indeed mature in 4-6 weeks, but that's not the same as ripe buds. it just means that 4-6 weeks after pollination you can pick nice darkbrown ripe seeds out of the buds. the buds could be still forming new flowers at that point, or be far past best harevesttime.
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:39 AM #768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StinkFart View Post
hello. Was reading thread about latitude and what that means concerning sunlight time. Didn’t go in how you go about tracking/finding that information for your latitude.
Just add your city to the url
https://www.timeanddate.com/sun/canada/montreal
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Old 04-17-2018, 12:32 PM #769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djimb View Post
I'm weighing my options for a summer grow this year after a long hiatus, and with negotiations with my wife for an indoor grow going south, I've been eyeing some woods in my area as potential guerilla plots. I've read through this whole thread and have learned a lot, but I have some questions.

1. I live in a medium city with a lot of neighborhoods separated by hills and cliffs, with a good amount of unmaintained forested land scattered around. I like the look of a couple of spots like this for smaller plants, like auto-ak47 or flo. What I wonder is just how far the scent of a small plant can travel. The spots I'm considering are bordered by roads, houses, and businesses, and are maybe a few hundred yards across at the widest point. I'm pretty confident I could keep the plants from being seen, but if people can smell it from their back yard, it might raise a red flag.

2. I've been considering a couple of big parks with hiking trails for larger plants, namely PNG and Durban Poison. I'd rather they didn't get 10+ feet tall, as I'm only growing for my own stash, and I'd like to keep them well hidden. I know growing in a pot can restrict growth, but it requires frequent visits to water and feed. Would a buried fabric pot allow the same kind of water retention as planting in the ground while controlling the size of the plant by restricting it's roots? Or would it be better to plant the big tropical varieties later in the season? Maybe both?

3. I read about drying on site by hanging a plant upside down, possibly under a tarp. If the relative humidity at harvest time is super high, would putting branches into 5gal buckets with dessicant packs work?

4. I've read that seeding a plant can speed maturation. Does anyone have any experience with this? I was planning to make seed in my indoor grow this season, and if I have to go outdoors, I'll probably still plant 3 or so of each variety in hopes of getting a male or two. Do any of you think seeding a plant that normally takes 16-20 weeks would reduce the flowering time very much?

Thanks to everyone that's contributed to this thread. It's a great read and it's super informative. I hope everyone has a great season!
1. In your situation I'd plant a few autos, then photos. Start your Autos in 3" peat pots about 4 weeks before you can get out to the spot. Then start some a couple weeks after that. Scheduling your harvest is important. And smell is a function of the strain. A couple years ago I grew ONE 12 inch Revolver with a single cola that stunk like 5 dead skunks from 200 feet. People visiting from the city for a BBQ would stop.. sniff... and say.. "There's a skunk around here." lol. Dr. Greenthumbs has a low odour Incognito that apparently is NO odor until you start trimming it, but a few people told me to stay away from him. Super expensive and suspect delivery. I'd risk it for a couple seeds though.

2. Besides the logistics of moving a pot to the location (do it at night?), put your pot in a garbage bag the the garbage bag in the hole. The soil won't wick the water away from your plant this way. Remember to poke a few holes (5-7 pencil sized holes) in your garbage bag for drainage.

3. Google "historical humidity <city>" to see where the humidity is likely to be at harvest time. I'm at 50-65% until it's time to harvest, then it jumps to 100%! (fuck!). If you put your fresh bud in a bin with dessicant packs, it'll start rotting that day and be slimy within two. If I HAD to, I'd check the forecast and wait for a couple sunny days and I'd completely defoliate the plant (bring your scissors), ring the plant. That means removing the bark from around the foot of the main stalk and let it die standing. If humidity is low enough, you might get away with the majority of the drying.

4. I doubt seeding it would speed it more than a week. I may be wrong. I did read up on some old school methods to speed finishing though. Sounds crazy.
- Split the main stalk with a knife for about 3 inches.
- Twist the knife and slide a twig in the slit to keep the slit open.
The pending death puts the flowering in high gear as a survival mechanism kicks in to finish asap. I think it may hermie at this point, but if you harvest a week or two later, who cares.

If you want to seed, make sure it's far far far away from your plants. Like miles away. Years ago I planted a couple Fems in a forest clearing (I have 500 acres to play with), and I still found a few seeds in the bud. Pollen travels like clouds and can go for miles and miles. The day you see pollen sacs open, carefully slide a garbage bag over it, and cut it down. Stick a few bud branches in the bag, shake the bag and remove it gently. Tie up the garbage bag and carry it out to a garbage bin. A couple nice branch colas can give you 1000+ seeds no problem.
Note that you may need a couple weeks for the white hairs to show up on your female buds, so it may be better to bring the male plant home and collect the pollen in a baggie (with a bit of rice to keep it dry) until it's ready to use. Then you can use a small paint brush to pollinate the flowers.

Good luck.

--Edit--
About peat pots: They can be acidic, so before you add your soil, dunk them underwater and rinse them until bubbles stop coming off them. It only takes a few seconds. When you water, water from the bottom in the tray. Don't be afraid to add 1 inch of water in the tray. When the top of the pot starts drying, add water from the top, then water from the bottom again. Let the pots wick the water to your seedlings, and don't start adding 1/4 nutes until week 2. Normal feeding at week 4 before they go out.

About your soil: I use this recipe so I don't have to feed once they are out in the field.
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:08 AM #770
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Picked up some 25 gal grow bags today will probably put half into a hole gonna go grab a 1 man auger. When can we place out side and not start flowering. I run t5 24/7 guessing i will drop a hr every 2 days until it matches up to may 1st.
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