My poor little girl :(
- Thread starter zukinjo
- Start date
dimebag_
Active member
zukinjo-wassup brotha
like mikell was saying, kinda hard to say whats happening without a little more info. If I had to guess just from the pics, I'd say the ph is off (too high or too low) due to the yellowing being on the brand new growth areas. It doesn't show immediately when its off-it takes a few days. Same for after you correct it- it'll take a few days before shooting out new green growth again. The yellow leaves will stay yellow. I usually pick them off as I'm correcting the issue so I can tell if it's getting better or not. They look pretty healthy otherwise.
They do look a bit droopy tho-maybe from overwatering. I'm not sure what medium you're in- you don't want the medium to completely dry out but dry be enough for the plants to want to be watered. They get a little too comfortable when they aren't thirsty for water and grow slow, as well as running the risk of root rot. I run rockwool, and I like it too be almost to the point of being dry/light before hitting them again.
Also, I know that coco as medium uses more calcium/magnesium and a mag deficiency will cause yellowing as well, but on the lower leaves. It could also be a cal/mag deficiency also but it looks like just a ph issue-mabe check out some threads about cal/mag and coco.
hope this helps…good luck man!
cheers
dbag-
Last edited:
Straight coco you are going to want to go with 5.8 ph. That is the optimal range.
Phases
Member
Ganjagrower1 has a good point you should get your ph in range. However I think since you have just transplanted you need to let the coco dry out a bit (not bone dry but the pot should be light) and go easy on the nutes at this point and let the roots get established. That's super key in coco, in my opinion.
Let those nice pearly white roots grow nice and strong after the transplant.
Good luck fixin' your ladies
Let those nice pearly white roots grow nice and strong after the transplant.
Good luck fixin' your ladies
dimebag_
Active member
I agree, lower that ph a bit to 5.8 and I bet in a few days new green growth will start again.
db-
What's the lights off temp, what's the lights on temp?
Do you use a ppm meter?
Pragma
Active member
Agree with the points above.
Water less frequently until the root system gets established, probably in 10-14 days.
Also, it is very easy to get lost by trying to rationalize your plant's symptoms as micronute deficiences or whatever.
You really don't need to do any of that. You just need to feed the correct ec and pH. Most coco nutes (AN, Atami/Bcuzz, Canna, etc.) have everything your plant needs to grow so if you are seeing something wrong its either the pH or EC are incorrect (always check meter calibration first), or you are watering too much (in your case), or watering too little (plants get burned tips and clawed leafs).
Get the EC meter so that you reduce the "what's wrong ?" possibility to two options: too much or too little water.
Very valuable when you are beginning.
Trust me
If you need help with the EC values let me know.
pH always at 5.8-5.9
Gluck
Water less frequently until the root system gets established, probably in 10-14 days.
Also, it is very easy to get lost by trying to rationalize your plant's symptoms as micronute deficiences or whatever.
You really don't need to do any of that. You just need to feed the correct ec and pH. Most coco nutes (AN, Atami/Bcuzz, Canna, etc.) have everything your plant needs to grow so if you are seeing something wrong its either the pH or EC are incorrect (always check meter calibration first), or you are watering too much (in your case), or watering too little (plants get burned tips and clawed leafs).
Get the EC meter so that you reduce the "what's wrong ?" possibility to two options: too much or too little water.
Very valuable when you are beginning.
Trust me
If you need help with the EC values let me know.
pH always at 5.8-5.9
Gluck
Why do so many growers think they have a zinc deficiency?
Iron deficiency shows as upper leaf yellowing between the veins, which may progress to cell death of the affected leaves. New leaves come out bleached. Yellowing begins on the lower part of the leaflets. Iron deficiencies can look similar to a manganese deficiency. Overdoses of calcium, zinc, manganese, phosphorous and copper can lock up iron and cause a deficiency. Basic (pH above seven) conditions or over-watering can also lock out iron uptake.
There's more than one factor at play here. Hesi is fairly well concentrated and the NPK pretty balanced. I do not think you need to add iron to your program yet. As others have said, provide the correct pH and reduce your watering frequency until the problem resolves. If the problem remains then you will want to consider adding a product that contains chelated iron. Plant's only need 5-10ppm of iron in the water, it doesn't take much, but it cannot be locked out. You may need to reduce the feed strength on the Hesi and incorporate a Nitrogen dominant veg supplement to adjust the NPK levels to favor less phosphorus and calcium.
Iron deficiency shows as upper leaf yellowing between the veins, which may progress to cell death of the affected leaves. New leaves come out bleached. Yellowing begins on the lower part of the leaflets. Iron deficiencies can look similar to a manganese deficiency. Overdoses of calcium, zinc, manganese, phosphorous and copper can lock up iron and cause a deficiency. Basic (pH above seven) conditions or over-watering can also lock out iron uptake.
There's more than one factor at play here. Hesi is fairly well concentrated and the NPK pretty balanced. I do not think you need to add iron to your program yet. As others have said, provide the correct pH and reduce your watering frequency until the problem resolves. If the problem remains then you will want to consider adding a product that contains chelated iron. Plant's only need 5-10ppm of iron in the water, it doesn't take much, but it cannot be locked out. You may need to reduce the feed strength on the Hesi and incorporate a Nitrogen dominant veg supplement to adjust the NPK levels to favor less phosphorus and calcium.
