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The best technology of LED lightining at moment 2020
- Thread starter dreadlocos
- Start date
No it doesn't.
Please read what the op is promoting(not an opinion if you read carefully) and think about it critically, if it makes any sense to you, then maybe my response seems rough or something, but it really is responding to bullshit wrapped in newb paper.
I think what really drives folks away from any site is lack of quality content, like this thread for example. Bad infos in newb clothes fueled by ignorance and lack of criticism. Thanks but no thanks.
Cheers
Dion
Active member
bleepboop
Active member
My post count not withstanding (I don't really venture out of the landraces forum on here, maybe into organics on occasion) - the initial post does have a bit of tat flogging going on. Mainly because none of the actually known brands were mentioned.
The high cri grow led market is growing though.
Most of the use for it comes from incorporating a bit of both far red and near UV/uva in a full spectrum chip - thus avoiding the use of monos/very specific supplements aswell as avoiding certain peaks which it's possible are limiting development.
The downside when it comes to growing with them is efficiency and heat management when it comes to competing with the current crop of high efficiency chips/generally being more useful than hps/metal halide.
I don't pretend to know exceptional amounts about this but I've found it interesting and nourishing to try and keep up to date with what's going on in this market. Mainly so I wouldn't waste what little money I have perhaps!
The best high cri chips for growing/incorporating into fixtures to help with the spectrum seem to be:
Nichia Optisolis 3030
(CRI 98 and quite efficient, they also do a range of Optisolis COB, purple pump starts at 420nm)
Toshiba/Seoul Semiconductor Sunlike 3030
(CRI 97, lowest near UV pump - starting at 415nm)
Cree do some CRI95 in 5050 form factor.
Most of their current lineup is available in CRI90 though including the very efficient J series 3030.
Osram also do cri95 that's been used by a few grow light manufacturers.
Bridgelux just brought out a new high cri range called thrive too.
One of the best deployments for these so far seems to be the growlight Australia "highlight uv" boards where the panel is populated by:
70% is 90cri 2700k Nichia 757 3030 chips which are great and very efficient. 2.75umol/j
Nichia Optisolis 2700k, for adding far red aswell as balanced spectrum.
Seoul semiconductor sunlike 6500k for adding near UV down to 400nm.
All in makes for a very balanced full cycle light whilst retaining efficiency. I think the whole thing comes in at 2.47 umol/j @ 1.5a.
The key being tapping all the right photoreceptors in a plant without overloading them - I do have unsubstantiated thoughts that the massive 450nm peak in Samsung 301b can oversaturate a bit unless large amounts of red can
be provided to compensate. They are very efficient though and they can certainly grow as proved by their success. I still use a couple of old hinflux strips for added photonic punch.
Obviously uvb and uvc aren't here to stimulate the likes of uvr8 receptors etc but there's been some interesting side by sides that show uva and near uv (365nm - 420nm or so) have just as valid an impact on terpenes and thc by mimicking high altitude light - with the benefit being in small amounts they can be run through your entire light cycle and not need additional timers - and also not as dangerous to your eyes health as uvb florescent reptile lamps.
Hope that's a helpful overview of the perspective I've pieced together the last few years of messing about with leds and watching high cri slowly become a topic of discussion.
The high cri grow led market is growing though.
Most of the use for it comes from incorporating a bit of both far red and near UV/uva in a full spectrum chip - thus avoiding the use of monos/very specific supplements aswell as avoiding certain peaks which it's possible are limiting development.
The downside when it comes to growing with them is efficiency and heat management when it comes to competing with the current crop of high efficiency chips/generally being more useful than hps/metal halide.
I don't pretend to know exceptional amounts about this but I've found it interesting and nourishing to try and keep up to date with what's going on in this market. Mainly so I wouldn't waste what little money I have perhaps!
The best high cri chips for growing/incorporating into fixtures to help with the spectrum seem to be:
Nichia Optisolis 3030
(CRI 98 and quite efficient, they also do a range of Optisolis COB, purple pump starts at 420nm)
Toshiba/Seoul Semiconductor Sunlike 3030
(CRI 97, lowest near UV pump - starting at 415nm)
Cree do some CRI95 in 5050 form factor.
Most of their current lineup is available in CRI90 though including the very efficient J series 3030.
Osram also do cri95 that's been used by a few grow light manufacturers.
Bridgelux just brought out a new high cri range called thrive too.
One of the best deployments for these so far seems to be the growlight Australia "highlight uv" boards where the panel is populated by:
70% is 90cri 2700k Nichia 757 3030 chips which are great and very efficient. 2.75umol/j
Nichia Optisolis 2700k, for adding far red aswell as balanced spectrum.
Seoul semiconductor sunlike 6500k for adding near UV down to 400nm.
All in makes for a very balanced full cycle light whilst retaining efficiency. I think the whole thing comes in at 2.47 umol/j @ 1.5a.
The key being tapping all the right photoreceptors in a plant without overloading them - I do have unsubstantiated thoughts that the massive 450nm peak in Samsung 301b can oversaturate a bit unless large amounts of red can
be provided to compensate. They are very efficient though and they can certainly grow as proved by their success. I still use a couple of old hinflux strips for added photonic punch.
Obviously uvb and uvc aren't here to stimulate the likes of uvr8 receptors etc but there's been some interesting side by sides that show uva and near uv (365nm - 420nm or so) have just as valid an impact on terpenes and thc by mimicking high altitude light - with the benefit being in small amounts they can be run through your entire light cycle and not need additional timers - and also not as dangerous to your eyes health as uvb florescent reptile lamps.
Hope that's a helpful overview of the perspective I've pieced together the last few years of messing about with leds and watching high cri slowly become a topic of discussion.
Dion
Active member
Oh yeah!!!
Where U been man!?!!
welcome to the party!
I've also been watching the high CRI trend and @horsefatlover educated me a but more on what exactly is
Im not sure if the minimal bump in the Reds justify loosing overall flux... I guess U sacrifice total photon output for allegedly better photons?
But I guess that is the ongoing spectrum debate, no?
The UV side of it is harder to achieve than just adding a few red monos though , U seem to know ur stuff mate
Any more info and experience is appreciated
How much UVB (300-315nm) do the higher CRI put out in average?
EXHIBIT A: CANNACOASTLED
using higher flux 5000k BXEB GEN 2 with added 660/620nm cree xpe...
EXHIBIT B: CANNACOASTLED
3500K 90CRI BXEB GEN 3 as well
[
SHAMELESS PLUG
G
Guest
Why do I feel like Im reading a multipage infomercial? Pass.
PizzaMan5000
Member
Well we have to throw half of the info in the trash, because eBay LEDs are nothing near what they claim.
Mine run about 1/4 of their advertised power draw for one thing.
I have no clue what the sum of all the different diodes will do to a plant. I'm sure glad I didn't trust the par ratings, because they were WAY off.
Mine broke 2,000par, but at less than 6". A far cry from 18-24". Ended up hanging them 2-5" above flower and 12+ above seedlings.
Not gonna say they are good besides dollars per watt. Which I got 79w with fan for $17. I shared a link on here, as a good price and not as a GOOD LIGHT!!!! And yes I have a friend who bought them under my instructions too. He's running autos in DWC on his first indoor grow
so proud!
Mine run about 1/4 of their advertised power draw for one thing.
I have no clue what the sum of all the different diodes will do to a plant. I'm sure glad I didn't trust the par ratings, because they were WAY off.
Mine broke 2,000par, but at less than 6". A far cry from 18-24". Ended up hanging them 2-5" above flower and 12+ above seedlings.
Not gonna say they are good besides dollars per watt. Which I got 79w with fan for $17. I shared a link on here, as a good price and not as a GOOD LIGHT!!!! And yes I have a friend who bought them under my instructions too. He's running autos in DWC on his first indoor grow
so proud!
Last edited:
PizzaMan5000
Member
Yes but they CRAVE blurple
eyesdownchronic
Active member
This entire thread is filled with bro science garbage.
Who exactly is this they? lol
Its well accepted that different wavelengths of light have both different absorption rates, as well as differing levels of photochemical energy output. Red and blue are both absorption peaks, with blue light having a higher energy output. Green and yellow wavelengths have low absorption rates, this is why plants look green/ yellow. When green and yellow wavelenghts are supplied in abundance, plants evolved ways to dissipate excess energy by the use of pigments such as xanthophylls and anthocyanins, which convert the light energy into heat. This both wastes light energy and requires plant energy to create these compounds.
Also, evolution does make "mistakes". For instance, photosynthesis first became a process when ambient co2 levels were something like 4000 ppm, (now they are around 400) so plants never had to worry about there not being much co2 vs. O2.
Anyways, RUBisco somehow evolved to be able to pick up O2 and CO2 even though O2 cant be used and results in a wasteful energy process called photorespiration. (this is a massive oversimplification)
Green is very much used. It goes further into the leaf where there are pigments to absorb it. There was a study showing that when there is good level red and blue light additional green photons will result in more photosynthesis than if red or blue photons were added.
The auxilliary pigments are there to harvest light energy and pass it to ps2 and ps1. They probably release the excess energy as heat, but I don't think it really matters unless you waste a lot of energy to produce the photons. I'm no expert though. This is just how I understand it and I may be wrong.
eyesdownchronic
Active member
Yes, green and yellow are absorbed and used, but they are less efficient at supplying energy than red or blue are. I do not know the experiment you are referring to, but you have to be careful when directly applying information from one single study to all instances. It would not be surprising that if one wavelength of red (exp. 660) and one wavelength of blue (exp. 450) are used, and only those two wavelengths are used, then the pigment receptors responsible for those wavelengths would get overloaded. So adding any type of light other than that specific wavelength of red or blue would result in more photosynthesis. In this example, they used a green, which would result in more PS than the red or blue. But if they switched to a different WV of red (exp. 620) another receptor would be responsible for its uptake and would be more efficient than the green. again, I dont know if this what they did. but it seems unlikely that under control conditions, an addition of green light would result in a higher increase in PS than red or blue.
Lost in a SOG
GrassSnakeGenetics
Im still loving my home built lumileds rose sunplus COB rigs,, just keep making more..
Dion
Active member
I'm working on some custom strips using those diodes
I'll have to send U smth to compare when they are made
Seen as I'm doing my own spectrum I'd like to ask,
What would u improve with those rose ones?
eyesdownchronic
Active member
PizzaMan5000
Member
"Apogee instruments" on YouTube has several videos on spectrum and intensity etc. Play the videos at 1.5x speed lmao
Dion
Active member
Just something to add to 80cri 3500k
Prolly looking at adding UVB and 660nm+720nm for Emerson
Mostly I want to be able to offer growers more control during stretch by having easy simple plug and play add in spectrum with dimming
Yeah dr bugbee is the man
Nothing we don't already know if we stop bullshitting and feeding egos though
Aka blue makes em bushy
Red makes em stretch
Emerson effect is real
Plants enjoy more photons over spectrum
eyesdownchronic
Active member
Oh yeah! Glad to see someone utilizing far red other than 730 for emerson effect. Will these be made available somewhere?
Lost in a SOG
GrassSnakeGenetics
Id possibly do a mix of the purple cobs with the rose cobs because you dont need that much green, but really the plants just love em all around i might not change anything.. im not in a rush to..
They just seem to produce the healthiest plants.. ive used cree cobs, HLG boards and some other companies lights but these philips cobs beat em all.
I use the 32mm 1825 rose ones..
bleepboop
Active member
+1 on the sunplus rose 1825. I added a couple when I was running Samsung lm561c boards above and lm301 strips on the side. Mainly cause they added that little bit further into far red and it was quite hard to get far red supplements as fully formed strips and building cobs is way simpler.
Uses quite a lot of power, I was running a pair off a meanwell 240-54a. Really upped the intensity in a short 3x5 during my first or second go at notill beds - and before they developed into an ongoing symphylan hotzone.
Managed to dig out ye olde sunplus response.
I'd probably still use them were they not a bit of a power hog. Also the 54v driver worked really well on my 5000k strips
Uses quite a lot of power, I was running a pair off a meanwell 240-54a. Really upped the intensity in a short 3x5 during my first or second go at notill beds - and before they developed into an ongoing symphylan hotzone.
Managed to dig out ye olde sunplus response.
I'd probably still use them were they not a bit of a power hog. Also the 54v driver worked really well on my 5000k strips
