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Stupid f****** pm!!!
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braincancer
Member
sulfur burn is your very best and quickest option, its not cheep unless you got equipment.
there is a Dutch Masters combo with Zone and permiator(sp) doesn't work as quick as Sulfur burn.
there is a Dutch Masters combo with Zone and permiator(sp) doesn't work as quick as Sulfur burn.
sulfure burner. or sulfur based spray will keep it at bay.. however, you'll be able to get a sulfur taste outta the end product. If its not too bad, and you dont have too much goin on, you could wipe it off with a cloth.. repeating everyday...
Personally, I think u r screwed... damned if ya do, damned if ya don't. Problem is underlying... the environment is way off and the plants are likely a bit unhealthy. Got to address your temp and rh controls... plus some cultural issues as plant crowding and maybe nute feeds. Tough to address this late in the crop... which leaves bandaid approaches that involves spraying the plants w an adulterant of some sort... u v got to taint the crop.
Problem is that the more effective the spray you use... the worse the adulteration. A true chem will get you to the end of chop, but those are commercial gr8 ad e fungicides that have relatively high toxicity. The least toxic would be peroxide, but that doesn't address the underlying problems and so the mold will come back before chop... plus the heavy peroxide douse might bring up bud mold... if ya don't have it already. Could try some sodium bicarb, but that too is coating ur nugs... won't last... and may lead to bud rot as won't get inside.
Damned if ya do... damned if ya don't. Tough spot man. Address the environment for the next run. Peace
Problem is that the more effective the spray you use... the worse the adulteration. A true chem will get you to the end of chop, but those are commercial gr8 ad e fungicides that have relatively high toxicity. The least toxic would be peroxide, but that doesn't address the underlying problems and so the mold will come back before chop... plus the heavy peroxide douse might bring up bud mold... if ya don't have it already. Could try some sodium bicarb, but that too is coating ur nugs... won't last... and may lead to bud rot as won't get inside.
Damned if ya do... damned if ya don't. Tough spot man. Address the environment for the next run. Peace
Blue Socks
Member
I hear peroxide kills PM spores but have never tried it cause (KNOCK ON WOOD) I have never had to deal with PM. Maybe try spraying a diluted perxoide spray at lights on so they will dry out by lights off.
lostenspace
Member
I live in the PNW and currently I get it a couple of times a year. The best solution is prevention but you're to far in for that. This close to chop i use a 1:10 milk water ratio every 7 days. I then follow with ACT if you are organic, if not try Protekt from dyna gro. You will want to take your plants outside to spray and air dry. If you have a large garden, you will not have success with this method. Best of luck 
lostenspace
Member
Protekt will raise the ph up to 8 and reinforce the strength in the leaves but once PM is locked on it is difficult to eradicate. I also have had success with Oxidate and you will need to cover the plant top and bottom leaves and between flower sites.
I have been using SNS 244 and green cure on the veg, but the pm has just reared it's white spotty head on my flower room.....SUCKS.......can I use sns244 on flowering plants???? can green cure be applied this close to flower???? I cannot wait to chop, and get rid of this stuff. I dunked every plant in veg, in the green cure, and haven't seen it there since....now it is in flower, and spreading. There is also a product called eagle 20ew, but that is for veg. I think it is fine now in veg, as I haven't seen a sign of it since I dunked in greencure, then followed that a week later with sns 244. thank you all for the input, and suggestions. Stay HIGH(like me), cause it's better than being low....peace.
Green cure and serenade will burn any and all hairs that may be developing, thus stunting the shit out of your flowers....
Pm laughs at milk....
Find a sulfur spray or use a burner near your plants out side...
Hydro Per works great at a 10% strength, but will need to re dose....
Not going to recommend eagle 20 in flowering this early, unless its a 11+ week strain....
Pm laughs at milk....
Find a sulfur spray or use a burner near your plants out side...
Hydro Per works great at a 10% strength, but will need to re dose....
Not going to recommend eagle 20 in flowering this early, unless its a 11+ week strain....
Dang PM. The Fungal Scourge...
If it is not in the Buds, you may be able to save your crop.
PM is Ubiquitous. It is in the air everywhere. If the plants are healthy, they will not get it badly, if at all.
Some Climates are more prone to PM.
Some Strains are LESS prone to manifest it. Weed-out the Strains that attract PM.
Milk makes the buds smell and taste like puke. Nasty.
Any spray of water on the Flowers will likely cause budrot, unless you do not have dense Buds.
Get the Humidity of the room to 40-45%, and keep it there.
Do not water EXCEPT at the beginning of the Light Cycle. Not near "Lights-out."
And do not overwater, in general. But, DO water completely. All roots need to get saturated. I have found that if there are dry-spots in the roots, these are more likely to get PM>
Use less nitrogen in your feedings..
YES< use Pro-tekt, I have found this to make plants more resistant to all problems.
I use SAFER Garden Fungicide up until the 4th week of flower, and then only spray on the leaves and stem, not the buds. Up til the 6th week, maybe if necessary. Once weekly or every 8-9 days depending on the Extent of the Fungal Attack.
GOOD LUCK...!
If it is not in the Buds, you may be able to save your crop.
PM is Ubiquitous. It is in the air everywhere. If the plants are healthy, they will not get it badly, if at all.
Some Climates are more prone to PM.
Some Strains are LESS prone to manifest it. Weed-out the Strains that attract PM.
Milk makes the buds smell and taste like puke. Nasty.
Any spray of water on the Flowers will likely cause budrot, unless you do not have dense Buds.
Get the Humidity of the room to 40-45%, and keep it there.
Do not water EXCEPT at the beginning of the Light Cycle. Not near "Lights-out."
And do not overwater, in general. But, DO water completely. All roots need to get saturated. I have found that if there are dry-spots in the roots, these are more likely to get PM>
Use less nitrogen in your feedings..
YES< use Pro-tekt, I have found this to make plants more resistant to all problems.
I use SAFER Garden Fungicide up until the 4th week of flower, and then only spray on the leaves and stem, not the buds. Up til the 6th week, maybe if necessary. Once weekly or every 8-9 days depending on the Extent of the Fungal Attack.
GOOD LUCK...!
You need better air exchange BUT less air flow... Damn does that even make sense?
Think of it like dust almost, you don't want to kick it up or stir it BUT it can be wiped off etc.
HIGH PH water works wonders but I actually put in latex gloves and then use my fingers to wet the leaves or wherever the PM might be.
Now if it is in the buds or if isolated I would REMOVE the issue portions right off the bat, if you have a ton of moisture and HOT area then this will not get fixed. You need to get a wet / dry cycle going in the soil BUT a cooler ambient temp in the room itself.
As far as lotions, potions and sprays. I have tried chems and so called organic pm killers and all I have to say is NOT FOR MY GARDEN. I have used a milk/water HIGH PH solution and it worked great to slow it way down but complete removal, unsure as I didn't get it lab tested for pm or other issues.
I would rather attempt with water/milk versus ANY bottled spray personally OR would rather scrap the crop versus putting chems and sprays on it as there is always more seeds, clones and plants to grow.
You will need to fix your environment for the next grow however, a complete scrub down BUT also to deal with the environmental issue that caused it in the first place or it will come back again and again.
the one thing that always makes me smile is that even if I mess up a crop, I can have another ready in only 60 days AND you learn from mistakes versus getting it dialed in and right the first time.
keep it green
Think of it like dust almost, you don't want to kick it up or stir it BUT it can be wiped off etc.
HIGH PH water works wonders but I actually put in latex gloves and then use my fingers to wet the leaves or wherever the PM might be.
Now if it is in the buds or if isolated I would REMOVE the issue portions right off the bat, if you have a ton of moisture and HOT area then this will not get fixed. You need to get a wet / dry cycle going in the soil BUT a cooler ambient temp in the room itself.
As far as lotions, potions and sprays. I have tried chems and so called organic pm killers and all I have to say is NOT FOR MY GARDEN. I have used a milk/water HIGH PH solution and it worked great to slow it way down but complete removal, unsure as I didn't get it lab tested for pm or other issues.
I would rather attempt with water/milk versus ANY bottled spray personally OR would rather scrap the crop versus putting chems and sprays on it as there is always more seeds, clones and plants to grow.
You will need to fix your environment for the next grow however, a complete scrub down BUT also to deal with the environmental issue that caused it in the first place or it will come back again and again.
the one thing that always makes me smile is that even if I mess up a crop, I can have another ready in only 60 days AND you learn from mistakes versus getting it dialed in and right the first time.
keep it green
agreed h202 can and does work just watch your "light height"
Do not burn sulfur That is horrible advice. You're way too far along, and the sulfur will get all over your flowers and inside them. I only burn sulfur in veg and before the flowers set.
It's tough to really say what will help at this point. You might try the H202 as that seems least likely to leave any residue that would be harmful to you. If it was me, I would start plucking as many leaves with PM as possible. I'd spray H202 all over the place, and I would harvest early. Life lesson learned.
Whenever I don't follow my normal prevention programs, I almost always end up with something. Best of Luck.
It's tough to really say what will help at this point. You might try the H202 as that seems least likely to leave any residue that would be harmful to you. If it was me, I would start plucking as many leaves with PM as possible. I'd spray H202 all over the place, and I would harvest early. Life lesson learned.
Whenever I don't follow my normal prevention programs, I almost always end up with something. Best of Luck.
I would make-up a disinfectant solution in a pot.
Chop the worst affected leaves off and remove to airtight bag, dipping snips in your disinfectant between each cut.
Take out as much infected leaf (more than 25% 'powdered') as possible to increase the airflow. Add another circulating fan.
Run a dehumidifier to get humidity below 40%. Beware high temps at low humidity.
Make up a solution of essential oil fungicide using 3 of these: ginger, cinnamon, peppermint, pine, turmeric - 20 drops/litre total + neem oil + natural soap. Paint the solution onto remaining leaves after 'dusk' once per week til harvest. You could incorporate a silica product too but havn't tried that myself.
I would'nt be using any chems on them this late into harvest.
After harvest comes the clean-down. You have to be real thorough on every surface, all ducts, pots, reflector - every piece of equipment in there gets a thorough clean with bleach solution - just imagine millions of microscopic mildew spores and take them down.
Fumigating with sulfur dioxide will also do a thorough job but is most effective at concentrations plants cant handle so best used after harvest. It can tarnish reflective surfaces so not so good for tents and mylar rooms.
Then when you restart (preferably after a short fallow period) keep up a weekly preventative spraying regime with silica, neem and essential oils.
I just came across a biofungicide called AQ10 which is supposed to be an effective preventative you could try next round.
Chop the worst affected leaves off and remove to airtight bag, dipping snips in your disinfectant between each cut.
Take out as much infected leaf (more than 25% 'powdered') as possible to increase the airflow. Add another circulating fan.
Run a dehumidifier to get humidity below 40%. Beware high temps at low humidity.
Make up a solution of essential oil fungicide using 3 of these: ginger, cinnamon, peppermint, pine, turmeric - 20 drops/litre total + neem oil + natural soap. Paint the solution onto remaining leaves after 'dusk' once per week til harvest. You could incorporate a silica product too but havn't tried that myself.
I would'nt be using any chems on them this late into harvest.
After harvest comes the clean-down. You have to be real thorough on every surface, all ducts, pots, reflector - every piece of equipment in there gets a thorough clean with bleach solution - just imagine millions of microscopic mildew spores and take them down.
Fumigating with sulfur dioxide will also do a thorough job but is most effective at concentrations plants cant handle so best used after harvest. It can tarnish reflective surfaces so not so good for tents and mylar rooms.
Then when you restart (preferably after a short fallow period) keep up a weekly preventative spraying regime with silica, neem and essential oils.
I just came across a biofungicide called AQ10 which is supposed to be an effective preventative you could try next round.
Your plan sounds like a good one. The only thing that I know that will completely knock out pm is Eagle 20..and as you know can only be used in veg.It will work for your moms and veg plants.I had a bad case of it, indoors, and was able to save EVERYTHING except the Golden Goat. I was back in my normal routine within 3-4 wks after applying it..I think I sprayed twice? I was able to flower plants that had been treated with no reaccurence...and the quality was fine.
If a week from now, you feel like you are losing the battle, I'd harvest. I've been fighting the borg this last month..I feel for you!!
If a week from now, you feel like you are losing the battle, I'd harvest. I've been fighting the borg this last month..I feel for you!!
comment:I like this advice the best, but instead of a nasty tasting (well not that nasty) spray made of spices and fabric softener, go with the hydro peroxide treatment.
Im using Serenade, supposedly actinovate (sp) is odor less and works like Serenade, which is an option but tastes funky,,
also, Serenade doesn't burn gosh darned hairs
especially if you don't get your buds rinsed by the rain. or can hose them down outdoors in the sunshine
new thoughts
->first off all use painters tape and cover each of the buds so that your spray doesn't hit the ganj nugget. lol, but seriously you can use a piece of paper or something to shield the buds if you use anything toxic or even that tastes bad....
that being said,
---> trim worst leaves, use tasteless or nearly tasteless spray...
---->change temperature if you can and also make sure your spray has a toxic PH
