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Anybody know how to read water reports?

gr866

gr866

Active member
Veteran
PriznnPlanet said:
Does anybody know how to read this? My tap is .1 EC but I have no idea how strong the CA - MG is. Been struggling with red stems using RO water figured maybe I should just run the tap and remove my calimagic.

http://www.egwd.org/pdf/CCR_2015_published_2016.pdf
Click to expand...

I know how to read my tap water reaport, it's over 800 ppm, so mine reads don't fucking use it, LOL!

Sorry when I moved here I got the water repoet and it was so bad, the states min is 1000 ppm, so I dicided then and there not to use it.

GR
 
troutman

troutman

Seed Whore
It says there's this level of calcium and magnesium in that report.

EGWD Service Area 1

calcium = 27.6 ppm and magnesium = 19.5 ppm

EGWD Service Area 2

calcium = 14 ppm and magnesium = 8 ppm

EGWD Service Area 3

calcium = 14 ppm and magnesium = 7.9 ppm

Note: 1 ppm = 1 mg per liter.

Now you have to determine which area you're in. :tiphat:
 
P

PriznnPlanet

Member
troutman said:
It says there's this level of calcium and magnesium in that report.

EGWD Service Area 1

calcium = 27.6 ppm and magnesium = 19.5 ppm

EGWD Service Area 2

calcium = 14 ppm and magnesium = 8 ppm

EGWD Service Area 3

calcium = 14 ppm and magnesium = 7.9 ppm

Note: 1 ppm = 1 mg per liter.

Now you have to determine which area you're in. :tiphat:
Click to expand...
Pretty sure I'm area 2, Do those numbers seem low?
 
troutman

troutman

Seed Whore
They are low. Must have very soft water.

Soft water is better than hard water.

It will make feeding and flushing the plants easier.

I just read this in quotes online so you may need to supplement a little.

If the calcium level in your water is 40-60 ppm or more, then there is little need to use a fertilizer that provides calcium.
Click to expand...
 
P

PriznnPlanet

Member
troutman said:
They are low. Must have very soft water.[/quote
Can I use this with Canna nutes? Should I still be adding calimagic like maybe 1 ml/gal. From what I understand until you get over 8.5ml there's not enough? My coco is Char coir and says must supplement ca-mg. Shit I never had this problem with rockwool and I'm clueless when it comes to reading the formula in the nutrients.
Click to expand...
 
troutman

troutman

Seed Whore
Just follow the label of your nutrients and all should be well.

Normally there's instructions on how much to add. :tiphat:

I just checked the Calimagic label and it says:

Use 1ml per liter (1 teaspoon per gallon) for most applications.
 
P

PriznnPlanet

Member
troutman said:
Just follow the label of your nutrients and all should be well.

Normally there's instructions on how much to add. :tiphat:
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm recirculating so I run the light feed on canna, but this last rez change I added 3ml of calimagic and they seem to be showing more red in the middle of the leaf. The stems have been red this whole time but i have gg4 so i hear she's a ca-mag hog. Feel like I'm chasing my tail!
 
P

PriznnPlanet

Member
troutman said:
Just follow the label of your nutrients and all should be well.

Normally there's instructions on how much to add. :tiphat:

I just checked the Calimagic label and it says:

Use 1ml per liter (1 teaspoon per gallon) for most applications.
Click to expand...
Maybe I flush and try my tap with only 1ml of calimagic?
 
H

Hooter

Member
Cal/mag 1 tsp per gallon. The number one on The report is for electrical conductivity or total dissolved solids. You need to add supplement especially using coco. I use cal/mag 1 tsp per gallon.
 
H

Hooter

Member
BTW red stems on some varieties is normal. I'm growing Blue Dream all the stems are red. If the are bright red it may be a problem. Hope that helps. Good luck
 
Mikell

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I have not tried recirculating but have frequently heard it can be difficult to dial in.

Perhaps try DTW until you are familiar with that nutrient line. I find it works well with most nutrients at 1.0-1.3EC.
 
D

dutty

Canna Coco AB and Cogr got enough Ca and mg in it. No need to sup with calmag, esp since Canna has alot of N in it alrdy. You add Ca, Mg and N with calmag.

What most ppl dont know, the ph of your tank has very little to do with the ph in your medium (the important ph, since your plants are sitting in it) The tank ph has little impact on your medium ph.

Much much more effect on your ph has the amount of N and Ca (maybe mg) in your tank, and later, medium.

By adding N in form of NO3, ph goes up because roots release H+ ions (?) while absorbing N. Most of our ferts contain N in form of NO3.

N in form of NH4 pulls the ph down while absorbed, like K and P too.

Ca has no or little effect while absorbed, but it has the ability to make the ph drifiting slower. Neutral ph is 7 and with much Ca in it the ph drops slower from 7 to 5,8 which is the sweet spot to hit in coco (medium).

Coco ferts are well balanced so the combination of NPK ca mg not just meet the requirements of the plant and the coco, esp the form and amount of N maintain a stable ph.

Problem is: Our plants can absorb much more N than they rly need. They save it in their leafs. While absorbing more than they need, the ph rises while no real over fertilisation is visible (only by dark leafs, no high drain ECs) In addition the Ca slows down your ph and what you get is high ph symptoms like red stems.

Later in flower, when your npk ratio moves to more pk and you still give veg npk ratios you can see Ca def because of high ph (at 6,6 or higher), even when your medium is totaly saturated with Ca.

So, over ferting let your ph rise (at first, later general salt accumulation let ph drop to under 5 - overkill), to much N in your npk ratio let your ph rise, to much Ca let your ph rise.

A soil Ph Meter is a nice tool and not much more expansive than a normal ph pen.
 
P

PriznnPlanet

Member
Hey thanks for chiming in all! Just a quick note that all of my clones are doing this. But my beans are lush green no purpling. I'm running oceangrown seeds using vaders flood and drain setup. He runs recirculating at 1.0-1.4 depending on strain no camag added and his stuff is fire! I'm going to try and flush it out using a lower ph I don't have funds for extra soil pen. I believe it's prolly locked out at a higher ph like you're talking about dutty. Had a ph problem with a bunk pen early on.

I'm going to stick with method I see massive roots and growth on both clones and the seedlings. I'm pretty sure my gg4 is root bound but I'm running hydro so it really shouldn't be a problem. The roots are nice and white but coiling up pretty fast in 2gal pots. It does seem odd the beans are not effected at all but clones are?
 
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