I also keep the pump on 24/7. Change the water every 10 days. Clean the unit every 30 days. My water gets warm as well but changing the water every 10 days helps allot . Im still @ 100%
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SooperSmurph
I've run the machines 24/7 many times, and i've found on/off to be superior in every way, whether on a machine with a pump like the EZ Cloner or the rotating disc we saw in the Rainforest.
good luck
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SooperSmurph
The restart in this run was actually caused by the cycle timer frying out when the power came back on, resulting in it running 24/7 until it was replaced, this softened and killed several clones where the convergence of several sprayers made the flow of water more intense.
A unit with a larger reservoir and more internal space for the water spray, such as an EZ Cloner 60, probably doesn't need the cycle timer, as the larger water bank should be sufficient to keep the pump cool, but with my little 30, and especially with the spinning disc of the rainforest, On/Off has given better results consistently.
A unit with a larger reservoir and more internal space for the water spray, such as an EZ Cloner 60, probably doesn't need the cycle timer, as the larger water bank should be sufficient to keep the pump cool, but with my little 30, and especially with the spinning disc of the rainforest, On/Off has given better results consistently.
With an on-off timer there is a convenient pause when you can lift the lid to check on things and you don't get sprayed. That alone is worth the price of admission.
It could, or couldnt. temps first, then water flow. you have water flow then it creates oxygenated water. oxygenated water is only created at the moment the bubble breaks the surface tension. bubbles coming up thru the water dont mean shit till it breaks the surface. the water is air rated at the intake of the pump/impeller , then misted thru the sprayer tips, then when that mist hits the rez water line as it falls, rain drop! creates enough movement. water temps... variables. b-safe
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Alone
Very true Sooper. The smaller units create/hold more heat.
With the EZ-C 120 its pretty constant.
A trick to keep the water cool, without a cycle timer on the smaller units, is to use frozen water bottles. Just stick 1 in there if it gets to warm.
I can def see how a pump on 24/7 would create to much heat in those smaller cloners.
Great job and info man.
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Alone
When my EZ-C 120's bubble line, that comes with the unit stock,
clogged up and didnt push out air bubbles, the clones all got stem rot. Nasty grey slime. They all died. I went and upgraded the airpump and bought 2 12" bubble stones. Never had stem rot or slime again. I think the airstones are an extremely important part of an aero cloner. It was for mine. A KEY element in the success of the rooting because the water doesnt get stagnant. The misters were not enough.
Mine has 30.
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SooperSmurph
Seems like the larger the reservoir, the more important aeration is, and the easier the temperature is to control.
I wonder what principle is responsible for the difference in aeration between a large and small reservoir, i'd always thought that more surface area meant more aeration? With the sprayers arrayed in a larger dome, you'd think the water would actually be picking up more oxygen than in the smaller units, but this doesn't seem to be the case across the board, very curious.
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postal trout
Does the rain forest cloner come with that stand? And how many sights are on it? The ez cloner plastic looks stronger, but then again you need to make a stand for it.
I'm going to look into some diy cloners before I jump in too far.
I'm going to look into some diy cloners before I jump in too far.
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SooperSmurph
Answers you seek are all likely here. Not sure what you mean by "stand" though.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=5826363
see the other problem is if your room is 80f, then that means the air being sucked in is aerating your rez with 80f air, raising temps.
Alone you prob are right with the black aeration line it orginally came with sucks. i had the 60 site, an i had lost sooo many clones over the 2yrs of on an off use of it. Always got stem rot. then wouldnt. then would. i also tried air stones or air wands an always hit or miss too. that fucking grey stem rot always got me.... all i know is i need to get my cloning skills honed in for my next phase coming up.
I need to invest in another cycle timer too. my last cap technologies art got serious corrosion issues an stopped working. moisture came in thru that phone jack plug at bottom an corroded the shit out of the pc board.
larger rezs are easier to maintain temps.. more stable with ph as well.
there is only so much DO that can be held in water at any said temp.
appreciate the side by sides...
b-safe
Alone you prob are right with the black aeration line it orginally came with sucks. i had the 60 site, an i had lost sooo many clones over the 2yrs of on an off use of it. Always got stem rot. then wouldnt. then would. i also tried air stones or air wands an always hit or miss too. that fucking grey stem rot always got me.... all i know is i need to get my cloning skills honed in for my next phase coming up.
I need to invest in another cycle timer too. my last cap technologies art got serious corrosion issues an stopped working. moisture came in thru that phone jack plug at bottom an corroded the shit out of the pc board.
larger rezs are easier to maintain temps.. more stable with ph as well.
there is only so much DO that can be held in water at any said temp.
appreciate the side by sides...
b-safe
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SooperSmurph
Correction. Average temps in my veg are around 80, my cloning area is located directly under the AC vent, and the average temp in that area holds in the mid 70s.
Wanna know something so dumb? When my lazer lining(the aeration line) clogged on my cloner i called them because they had already replaced it for free and they told me it was unnecessary and to just take it out. I knew that was stupid. Turbo cloners suck for that reason, the water is stagnant. Sure it blows air in there but the water doesnt get aeration. I agree that its fundamental to healthy rooting.0
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SooperSmurph
So, final images and conclusions, both the Clonex examples and the Dip-N-Grow examples outperformed the Control Dataset, producing roots worthy of transplant in 13 days rather than 16.
Day 11.
Day 13.
The root growth over the last few days seems to have confirmed my initial impressions, that the most advanced individuals are in the Clonex group, but that the most consistent results were achieved with those treated with Dip-N-Grow.
Conclusion: Dipping machine rooted clones in a gel or concentrate before placing them into a machine will result in faster, more prolific root growth.
Day 11.
Day 13.
The root growth over the last few days seems to have confirmed my initial impressions, that the most advanced individuals are in the Clonex group, but that the most consistent results were achieved with those treated with Dip-N-Grow.
Conclusion: Dipping machine rooted clones in a gel or concentrate before placing them into a machine will result in faster, more prolific root growth.
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Alone
Congratulations!!!
Congratulations!!!
Great side x side information on aero cloning.
5 stars for SooperSmurph's thread.
Congratulations!!!
Great side x side information on aero cloning.5 stars for SooperSmurph's thread.
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Alone
I would suggest to you....that instead of making suggestions on what you think you know about aero cloning...you put on your listening ears, and go over every inch of this thread from start to finish, then apply what was written as truth in cloning science here.
I dont want to see you loosing anymore clones in the future! K?
Hey Sooper....remember that guy who said I was a troll trying to sell EZ-C's because I said an EZ-C can produce 3" of roots in a day?....
.......LOL!
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