DWC BUDS BEHIND SOIL BUDS?????

YetiOG said:

Plants love sulphur. Good food always has enough. A little bit extra though helps one of my favorite old adds i no longer use was a sulphur boost. The plants liked it so much i used it in veg and flower because it made a difference for sure

This thread has a 1 star rating lol. Its not that bad bht it could use some pics or progress report from the OP.

LOL at soil out doing hydro. Only one way that happens... human error

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You've only just found the title of the thread funny after posting here for how ever long.
Dont be so quick to judge as everyone else who has grown this cut in hydro says the same thing, that it seems to take longer to get blooming. I also did specifically say at the start that this is my 1st ever hydro or DWC grow so there's gonna be some learning curves. I imagine you was the best from the get go. I already grow top shelf and have been for awhile, go look at my albums and Jedi's jungle thread. Ive only seeing vegging plants in your albums so can't comment on your fem seeds lol

I can't upload pics from my phone since they changed things on the site a few months back, so only put the links up.

Here's my blueberry gum in DWC, my first time. Lol
https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=73681&pictureid=1764758

This is the GSC in soil

https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=73681&pictureid=1764757

GSC in DWC, just a bit behind bit all is fine.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=73681&pictureid=1764756

Peace
Namaste

jedi5891 said:

Hey folks, ive got some GSC in DWC and some in soil all flipped at the same time, but the GSC in the DWC haven't started blooming as much as the soil plants. I would've thought it been the other way with the hydro plants more advanced. Can anyone shed any light on this.
Peace
Namate

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I don't know what is typical, but my soil plants always finish later than the soil growers. Same exact cut, they say 60 days, it takes me 70. Every time.

I agree, it doesn't seem to be the logical conclusion, you would think they hydro would finish faster. So I've always wondered if it was the co2, (I'm sealed, co2) But even then, I would think it would finish faster.

But at least a dozen cuts, exact same cut, I'm consistently 10 days behind the soil guys. I don't know what it is.

**My hydro plants. Is there a way to edit?

mushroombrew said:

Root porn please! What hydro guy doesn't like white roots!!

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I'll upload some pics of the roots, I need some help though to take the picture as I hold up the pot. My roots are discolored a bit unfortunately. To start I thought I was getting root rot, but its actually the enzymes staining them, which is common.
The GSC roots in the DWC is like rope lol
Do any of you DWC growers do a maintenance flush ever with pure water mid veg or bloom to clean root zone. I always like to flush my soil plants every few weeks or so and was gonna do the same by cleaning out the DWC buckets and leaving them in plain PH adjusted water (5.8) for a day with the air stone on. Then starting with half strength nutes, building them back up over a week or so.
Peace
Namaste

Junk said:

**My hydro plants. Is there a way to edit?

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I think you have to have so many posts before u can edit your comments etc. Usually there is an edit button at bottom of your comment.
Thanks for posting Junk
Peace
Namaste

jedi5891 said:

I'll upload some pics of the roots, I need some help though to take the picture as I hold up the pot. My roots are discolored a bit unfortunately. To start I thought I was getting root rot, but its actually the enzymes staining them, which is common.
The GSC roots in the DWC is like rope lol
Do any of you DWC growers do a maintenance flush ever with pure water mid veg or bloom to clean root zone. I always like to flush my soil plants every few weeks or so and was gonna do the same by cleaning out the DWC buckets and leaving them in plain PH adjusted water (5.8) for a day with the air stone on. Then starting with half strength nutes, building them back up over a week or so.
Peace
Namaste

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Flushing soil is good because you get rid of salt buildup/un used nutrients hanging around.

Well in Hydro we do water changes which gets rid of that stuff. So plain water is unnecessary unless they are burnt from high EC/TDS

Your bubblegum is looking sweet! And the GSC too. It's quite different from the cut I got. But I think it will yield nice!

So the hydro plants haven't caught up yet? What's your rez temp? You sure you don't have some slower hydro growth from Brown roots? Could be stained. Or just low on O2.

Twice as much O2 @ 60F than 80F.

I use a crap load of air. In fact I need to get one big compressor like they use in Aquarium stores. Belt drive.
I have one ECO Air 3 commercial for every 50 Gallons. And they are loud.

mushroombrew said:

Flushing soil is good because you get rid of salt buildup/un used nutrients hanging around.

Well in Hydro we do water changes which gets rid of that stuff. So plain water is unnecessary unless they are burnt from high EC/TDS

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Niceone mate, that makes sense. I'll just continue to do what im doing and just clean the tank out and do a change every week or two.
Yeah there looking sweet for sure, im really impressed with the results so far. The thread title seems like im struggling, but as u can see there looking fine. I also think for my first DWC grow im doing well and will be able to really get my teeth into the technique.
The B gum looks like shell pull some decent weight. The GSC isn't the best yielder individually but its ok over a meter squared as she doesn't get very wide and has nice columns of bud along the branches giving decent colas and 2nd nugs. She has stretched alot in DWC, but the branches are thick with lots of sites, so hopefully shell give me more than in soil.
My EC meter has recently packed up so I can't give u my nute temps. I know from experience that im not too high. My PH is fine and as you can see they look healthy. I just think its either this strain or too high nitrate levels to start delaying them a bit blooming. Either way there doing fine and its all a learning curve when trying new skills
Peace
Namaste

jedi5891 said:

Niceone mate, that makes sense. I'll just continue to do what im doing and just clean the tank out and do a change every week or two.
Yeah there looking sweet for sure, im really impressed with the results so far. The thread title seems like im struggling, but as u can see there looking fine. I also think for my first DWC grow im doing well and will be able to really get my teeth into the technique.
The B gum looks like shell pull some decent weight. The GSC isn't the best yielder individually but its ok over a meter squared as she doesn't get very wide and has nice columns of bud along the branches giving decent colas and 2nd nugs. She has stretched alot in DWC, but the branches are thick with lots of sites, so hopefully shell give me more than in soil.
My EC meter has recently packed up so I can't give u my nute temps. I know from experience that im not too high. My PH is fine and as you can see they look healthy. I just think its either this strain or too high nitrate levels to start delaying them a bit blooming. Either way there doing fine and its all a learning curve when trying new skills
Peace
Namaste

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Yeah all your plants look good for sure.

Just watch temps. As the root system in DWC grows so does there need for O2.

I have had slow growing plants with tan roots for weeks. And then
all of a sudden its over.

I have killed lots of plants over the years so you don't have too!!

When you feed a balanced nute profile, start with r/o water, maintain a full pH cycle using only nutrients and top off with r/o water, you can run a res for at least three months without changing or causing any buildup/issues.

Douglas.Curtis said:

When you feed a balanced nute profile, start with r/o water, maintain a full pH cycle using only nutrients and top off with r/o water, you can run a res for at least three months without changing or causing any buildup/issues.

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I have only pulled that off in Aquaponics. I didn't change water ever. For just over 3 years. Fully biological. Very cool.
Cannabis didn't like it. Not enough Nitrates. If they get too high fish die. The low TDS limits what species.

mushroombrew said:

I have only pulled that off in Aquaponics. I didn't change water ever. For just over 3 years. Fully biological. Very cool.
Cannabis didn't like it. Not enough Nitrates. If they get too high fish die. The low TDS limits what species.

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Nice. Yeah, aquaponics is great for salad greens and, as you pointed out, lower nitrate plants.

15 years growing with one mixed res and one pure water rez per flowering run. 70-80 day strains are a breeze without a res change. Plants love it. Btw, adding nutes is what I use as a pH down, the reset of the full pH swing. The only pH adjustment I use is pH up (because I start with r/o water), and this is only to set the pH when the first rez is mixed for flower.

Lucas res management makes DWC dead stupid simple. Any hydro, for that matter, but DWC is the easiest. After all these years I'm amazed at how little time I end up spending on the hydro portion of my grows.

Longest I ever went was about 4 months with a veg rez. Plants didn't like the last two weeks, started pH spotting. I know my veg mix was off though.

Yeti og has been banned lol, people like that dont add any value to these kind of sites when they just leave negative comments.
Peace

The Lucas formula was something id been contemplating as I felt my growing standards were good except I wanted to improve on my nutrient knowledge.
Ive recently been watching some horticultural seminars with Healy Smith. He really knows his shit and id advice anyone to watch his talks as his full of extensive knowledge. He explains how there is more grow stages than rooting, veg and bloom etc and to really grow the best crops one needs to spoon feed their plants what they need and when they need. Also implementing bio-stimulants to chelate the nutrients making them more soluble and increasing the vascular system.
He also explains how you can build up the plants natural immune system to resist diseases and pests naturally.
Alot of the nutrients out there we're using is actually being wasted as alot isnt even being up taken by the plant. Phosphorus is a good example as other than whats in the base feed the only times you need to supplement P is when there rooting as it helps with lateral root growth and very start of bloom, as it helps build the budding sites. Any more is a waste as the plant stores the P as Phosphate bonds using them for energy as and when needed. Only need to add Potassium peak bloom as it helps build the flowers.
Check out his videos on YouTube. There filmed in a grow store in USA.
Peace
Namaste

jedi5891 said:

The Lucas formula was something id been contemplating as I felt my growing standards were good except I wanted to improve on my nutrient knowledge.
Ive recently been watching some horticultural seminars with Healy Smith. He really knows his shit and id advice anyone to watch his talks as his full of extensive knowledge. He explains how there is more grow stages than rooting, veg and bloom etc and to really grow the best crops one needs to spoon feed their plants what they need and when they need. Also implementing bio-stimulants to chelate the nutrients making them more soluble and increasing the vascular system.
He also explains how you can build up the plants natural immune system to resist diseases and pests naturally.
Alot of the nutrients out there we're using is actually being wasted as alot isnt even being up taken by the plant. Phosphorus is a good example as other than whats in the base feed the only times you need to supplement P is when there rooting as it helps with lateral root growth and very start of bloom, as it helps build the budding sites. Any more is a waste as the plant stores the P as Phosphate bonds using them for energy as and when needed. Only need to add Potassium peak bloom as it helps build the flowers.
Check out his videos on YouTube. There filmed in a grow store in USA.
Peace
Namaste

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Yeah that's why I will dehydrate samples for gas chromatography. Then will be able to tailor feeding exactly for each strain.

Looking forward to some real science but don't have the funds just yet.

Right now I have zero biologicals. We sanitize our nurtients will several methods. So we are close to zero bacteria beneficial and pathogen alike.

So I can say with certainty that bio's are not necessary for quality flower. Our roots are healthy so our plants are healthy.

Ive been growning healthy plants for years myself too without the use of some of these amendments but its about growing the plants to their fullest genetic potential. Its fact that certain stimulants help the plant to better use the nutrients more efficiently. The use of Calcium is adviced, especially when using R/O. Cal helps the plant to grow fatter stems and shorter internodes. Used with amino acids it increases the uptake making a better vascular system increasing all nutrient uptake, making stronger more resistant plants.
Im sure you can grow healthy plants with tomato feed, but its about tailoring your nutes to the plants specific needs.
Peace
Namaste

RO water

RO water

Douglas.Curtis said:

When growing extreme quality cannabis, or duplicating hydro results, R/O levels the playing field.

Yes, there are some water supplies which are as clean as R/O. They are the exception and not the rule. Some tap water contains only dissolved elements cannabis can use as food. Again, this is the exception and not the rule.

The unfortunate part about cannabis is its a hyper/dynamic accumulator flower and not a fruit or vegetable. This means any non-food or excessive elements available will decrease quality in ways which cannot be flushed/faded out. The absorption of elements, through other channels than passive ionic uptake, and its ability to directly bind elements to new growth unconverted, makes a huge difference where quality is concerned.

A lot of people have difficulty telling the difference between 2% and whole milk, or butter and margarine. For these growers/tokers, 'decent' cannabis is the bomb. Those who have gained awareness, of what truly clean cannabis is like, are those who prefer R/O grown and faded cannabis. Those who prefer exactly predictable pH changes, or are looking for duplicateable results (which includes newbies), have the easiest learning curve with R/O and advice from other R/O growers.

The other nice thing is not having to re-learn or adjust your methods when you move to a new water supply. Lots of examples of folks who've had that issue.

This is why I always recommend R/O water, regardless of grow method.

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By RO, do you mean 0ppm? Or are you saying it MUST be run though an RO?

Bc I have had a $5k RO system (I clean windows), a simple DI tank, and water from my DH.

The RO system was ALWAYS 0 ppm

The DI is about 6 ppm, but very acidic which needs adjusting.

If you run a DH, just take the water from the DH. If my bucket is clean, the water is 5-10 ppm. Which is totally fine.

So I'm curious if the "RO" is just to mean 0 ppm?

If that's the case, just run a DH, you'll have all the 0 ppm water you want. Which, imo, is always better than tap, no matter what your tap. Unless otherwise stated, the chemicals were made with 0 ppm water, and work best with 0 ppm water.

R/O means reverse osmosis, which yes removes the dissolved solids. Its adviced if you live in an area with hard water. As your removing the calcium and magnesium and other trace elements, you'll need to supplement them if your feed hasn't enough.
What does DI and DH stand for pls.
Peace.
Namaste

Douglas.Curtis said:

When you feed a balanced nute profile, start with r/o water, maintain a full pH cycle using only nutrients and top off with r/o water, you can run a res for at least three months without changing or causing any buildup/issues.

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How do you verify there is no buildup/issues. Do you have an tissue samples you can share to back up these claims?
This goes against everything I have been taught, and I've been running hydro systems for almost 30 years. However, I'm open to learning something new, if there's convincing evidence.

By r/o, I do mean reverse osmosis. Yes. Though any water around 14 - 25ppm should work well. The key is to have zero or nearly zero effect on pH, while also eliminating unnecessary elements which affect quality.

Supplementing calcium or magnesium is only required if your nutrient profile is deficient. The Lucas mix has enough of both, exept mag hungry strains. Epsom supplies both mag and sulfur, with the sulfur working quite well to boost terpene production.

packratt said:

How do you verify there is no buildup/issues. Do you have an tissue samples you can share to back up these claims?
This goes against everything I have been taught, and I've been running hydro systems for almost 30 years. However, I'm open to learning something new, if there's convincing evidence.

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I prefer superior quality cannabis. Cannabis which does not cherry, breaks into frosty pieces with little effort and without turning to powder. Cannabis which produces a very cool and soft feeling smoke.

Cannabis is a hyper/dynamic accumulating flower. Many elements it does not need are absorbed by it, especially when these elements are available in excess. Tap water, with non-food or excessive food in it consistently decreases quality throughout flower. This buildup cannot be flushed or faded out.

When the nutrient profile is wrong, excess elements are absorbed and packed away into new growth. Usually not a big deal in veg, but a definite quality killer during flower.

When you use a balanced nutrient profile and are growing without overfeeding, I can blind taste test the difference between r/o grown and flushed, tap grown and r/o flushed and tap grown/flushed. The differences are in the heat and feel of the smoke.

When your nute profile is off, it can mask the quality hit you're taking from using tap. The quality will be sub-par, no matter what.

I grow super clean, my res is clean when I do my changeout for the 5 day flush. The end result is superb. Though I don't require testing, I would enjoy the opportunity to do such tests to refine the nutrient profile.

30 years ago, nobody knew what cannabis really wanted. Since it's a hyper/dynamic accumulator, better results were obtained when the unbalanced nute profiles were changed for a fresh mix every 2 weeks. Unless you're close or better than the lucas nutrient profile, dumping your res every two weeks is still a good idea. Huge waste of water and nutes, unless you dump it in a productive garden, but better for the end flower quality of your cannabis.

Yes, always look for new information. Learning daily is good for the soul.