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Old 11-20-2016, 07:54 AM #1
FRANKIE1579
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Fusarium Spp.

Hey folks, figured I'd write this here hopefully it helps someone else battling this, I know there's a few. Also would love to hear from anyone who successfully battled this. I've read a few threads where this wiped people's large scale grows out, and even followed them to new spots. I've become unfortunately aware of how hard a problem this is to eradicate once you have it. I was one of the people who was confident I could fix ANY plant with the right TLC. That's because I had not run into fusarium before.

Problem started initially showing as deficiencies. PH and nutrients were spot on. There were no bugs. Environment was the same as it had been for 8 years succesfully.

After trying everything we could think of, we finally sent samples to a lab who narrowed it down to Fusarium Spp. Roots and crown infected, leaves and stem clear. In other words it is not the Fusarium Wilt variety, but the root version. Unfortunately, certain forms of Fusarium root rot travel several inches up the stem inside the vascular tissue, then create sometimes visible sometimes very small lesions. From there it shoots out spores 1-2 m distance. In other words it will infect your entire room in a hurry.

There is no known method of eradicating fusarium once a plant has it. Even the best preventative measures, once it is introduced into an environment only showed 80-90% efficacy. Only hope is cull every single plant, disinfect religiously, and start over.

Fusarium controls we have tried on mother plants include

Clearly 3336 Effective but phytotoxic in high doses and only provides control not eradication.

Heritage DF Best of the bunch, but again, it comes back.

Empress Intrisnic Same as Clearly 3336. Definitely a noticeable difference in plant vigor however (Pyraclostrobulin lowers plants respiration and aids during stress, helpful in root pathogen scenarios)

Cap's Bennies Am sure this would work great on Pythium and Phytopthera, Rhizoctonia and Fusariam especially is asking too much. That is no slight on his product, because the agricultrual industry has searched for an effective fusarium curative control for 80+ years with no luck.

Long story short, nothing is curative. If you say you have something that cured Fusarium, and I mean cured, not helped the plant limp to harvest, then you did not have Fusarium, or you deserve the Nobel Peace Prize if you release your cure, as this decimates many food crops world wide.

For clarification here, I do not advocate the use of harsh chemicals on food/consumption products. These chemicals were used on mother stock ONLY. By the time it becomes a clone, roots, then grows into a 2+ foot tall plant there is zero residue due to degredation of the chemicals as well as the simple fact that the plant is now 1000+ times its weight in mass. And that was while still in Veg. Multiple lab results have verified this for us.

Currently in the process of re-painting with anti mold paint, floor walls and ceiling, 40 PPM bleach spray down, then 150 F heat treatment for several hours. Installing disinfectant footbaths at doors and placing HEPA filters throughout rooms.

Will be taking cuts from plants that have the Fusarium for one try to see if our version is fully systemic. Lab results came back stem and leaves negative, but the spores are very likely residing on the surface of plant material. Will be dipping cuts in 20 PPM chlorine for 20 mins. 14 PPM for 6 minutes eliminated 100% of fusarium spores in tests.

https://hortsci.ashspublications.org/.../44/1/157.full

Cuts will be going in rapid rooters with a large dose of microbes plus EM-1 tea. PH is going to be high, 6.5, as research on many forms of fusarium considers "fusarium suppressive soils" to have a high PH.

Chemical fungicides often and in our experience do inhibit root initiation. After roots are showing, they will be given a single application of Empress Intrisnic followed by a single application of Heritage as a preventative. Research as also shown that many fungicides can be run in conjunction with beneficial microbes. General rule of thumb is the contact ones are not a good combination, systemics perform better in conjunction, but check on tank mixes before trying any new combo.

Temps will be left at 62 during rooting. Our version of fusarium 100% grows faster in higher temperatures. Some do not, but ours does. Fusarium is opportunistic. When a plant is being cloned that is the perfect time for it to take a foothold, due to the open wound at base of stem. Once root initiation has occured, root zone temps will be raised to 68F.

Finally, be very careful out there folks. This pathogen is hardcore, and the more I read about it and the more experience I get dealing with it, the more it daunts me by how resilient and invasive it is. Look out for dark tan/red roots that are not slimey. Or reddish discoloration at base of stem. Another tell tale sign is white roots with necrotic tips. Very similar to rhizoctonia in that regard. Will update more as this progresses.
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Old 11-20-2016, 09:31 AM #2
king oscar
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I think I may have this in one room. Phantom deficiencies and complete defoliation by the end of flower if left untreated. It hasn't spread to any other rooms but anything that goes in this system gets it. Physan 20 at 1ml/10 gal and the plants are back to normal.
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Old 11-20-2016, 10:03 AM #3
FRANKIE1579
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Forgot to mention those ones too, Physan, Zero Tol 2.0, Calcium Hypochloride and good old Hydrogen Peroxide, Zero Tol 2.0 has performed the best, but its all temporary. Roots go red to dark tan within a day of being watered. As medium dries out, white roots appear. Then process repeats itself next watering.
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Old 11-20-2016, 10:09 AM #4
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Those ones are the contact killers. They are for a quick knockdown. Systemic issues those are just a bandaid. In DWC or NFT I suppose you could run Zerotol 2.0 at about 800+ ORP and you would never see fusarium in your roots even if spores were everywhere. but your plants would be close to death from phytotoxicity. Thats the annoying thing about fusarium. What's strong enough to kill it, at least when its not deep in the stem, well it kills the plant too. We did have one test come back negative. A test clone treated with Zerotol 2.0 at 1/20 dilution. (Max recommended is 1/100). Killed the clone
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Old 11-20-2016, 10:10 AM #5
FRANKIE1579
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Excuse me I meant Chloride, Zero Tol 2.0 creates negative ORP for some weird reason. But it works lol
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Old 11-20-2016, 10:58 AM #6
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Another interesting fact I read about fusarium is that 90% of the airborne spore spread occurs at night. Makes sense due to higher humidity and less UV for a soil/medium based virus.

No studies have been done on the idea of whether 24 hours of light in Veg would slow down the spread, most of these papers are in field/greenhouse conditions not with artificial or supplemental lighting.
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Old 11-20-2016, 01:20 PM #7
chris harris
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Good luck. I lost a battle to fusarium many years ago. Was recommended to me to run ozone to kill airborne sores.
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Old 11-20-2016, 08:50 PM #8
FRANKIE1579
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Thanks Chris, was this indoor or out?
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Old 11-20-2016, 08:51 PM #9
FRANKIE1579
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Sorry just woke up that was a stupid question lol. Did you end up with disease free plants in another location?
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Old 11-20-2016, 09:19 PM #10
chris harris
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No. Lost the genetics, ended up starting over. Was systemic, passed thru to cuttings, couldn't out run it. Tried taking cutting, as so as viable, from fresh new growth, but it was passed on.
Was able to run again in the same location though after a thorough scrub down. Ran an ozone generator for a month, or so, after, so, maybe it did something, but couldn't save what I had.
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